Lake Superior Learning Curve

aka “Maps 101”

I’m lucky to be alive. Not because I survived some deadly disease or natural disaster. I’m lucky to be alive because I thought my friends were going to kill me and leave my carcass for bears to scavenge. I thought this because that’s exactly what I would have done.

Months before these morbid thoughts, I’d stumbled across a “map” of northern Wisconsin and da U.P. (the upper peninsula of Michigan). Whilst perusing the map, two things immediately struck me. #1 – there appeared to be a large road-less area along the shore of the vast inland sea known as Lake Superior that virtually demanded to be explored. #2 – there also was a thin blue line through the middle of that road-less area, marking a stream flowing north into Superior, ready to lead the way. The almost complete lack of detail on the map, somehow did not strike me as relevant to my dreams of exploration. This minor omission will became important later.

Somehow I was able to convince two of my friends that this was an adventure worth pursuing. I also, somehow, managed to convince my parents to entrust me with the family car. Even more amazing, I managed to convince three sets of parents that I knew what I was doing and that nothing bad could possibly happen to three sixteen year old boys wandering around a northern forest. I mean, really, what could possibly go wrong? Well, gentle reader, I am about to tell you. When we plunged into the forest along the creek that was to serve as our guide, several things became immediately apparent.

  1. Our rather vague two dimensional map did not accurately depict the severely three dimensional landscape. Countless gullies, valleys, nay…canyons flowed into our little creek at right angles. We spent as much time climbing up and down the steeply sloping landscape as we did moving north.
  2. The green on the map meant to signify vegetation did not come close to conveying the impenetrable nature of the jungle. (Think pith helmeted explorers wielding machetes).  We actually had a machete – and used it.
  3. “Beyond here be dragons.” This was really not the fault of the map. But one might have thought that a map maker with a single shred of human decency would have made mention of the massive clouds of miniature dragons (aka mosquitos, no-see-ums, deer flies, horse flies, etc) inhabiting that jungle. My knowledge of Dante might be a bit rusty, but I seem to recall the seventh level of hell closely resembling our bug infested little patch of forest.
  4. Where my “map” really failed to provide accurate information was in the matter of distance. To be fair, it didn’t claim to offer distances, or any kind of legend at all. Still, somehow I imagined this sporty little jaunt in the woods would cover oh…eight (ish) miles…sort of more or less.
Typical northern forest…

After enduring 9-10 hours of slogging through heat, hills, humidity, jungle, and hellacious flying tormentors, we figured we must be close the Superior shoreline and sweet, sweet, blessed relief. Suddenly we saw a break in the forest canopy! “This must be it!” we thought and took off running. Instead of the Lake – we broke into a clearing under a power line! “Well, this is not right! There should be a lake here!” But no – it was just a big, ugly, buzzing power line. Having completely failed to show any other land feature that we had passed all day, our map actually did show the power line – about 1/3rd of the way to the lake! Had my friends truly been pith helmeted explorers, they might have said with impeccable British accents. “Bit of bad luck that! Not to worry. Let’s have a spot of tea and carry on!” In fact, it was at this point that I began to fear for my life. The steaming piles of bear crap scattered everywhere would have given my former friends a legitimate alibi if I had turned up missing at the end of our trip.

The power line did appear to cross roads at some indeterminate distance in either direction. At random, we chose to go right. “At least,” I said cheerfully, “under the power line it will be easier walking than fighting through the jungle.” A reasonable assumption – but wrong! The clever people who built the power line decided not to ruin good forest land, but instead routed the power line through a swamp…a bear infested swamp. So we slogged through the muck and over and around piles and piles of berry filled bear scat. We took some small comfort in the knowledge (OK – irrational hope) that thus fortified, the bears wouldn’t be ravenous. As evening began to fall, and as we began thinking about finding a dry place to camp….we saw it! We stood there – the three of us – jaws hanging agape – dumbfounded. There before us – was a road!

I would have thought my companions would be happy to have found an easy means of egress. Instead (whiners) they fixated on the fact that we had spent the ENTIRE DAY, hiking through the most brutal, unforgiving terrain the U.P. had to offer – all within one half mile of a perfectly serviceable road. For the 2nd time that day, my death seemed imminent. Well EXCUSE ME! Seems to me that even a map clearly not meant to provide any useful information would show some random features – like – oh, I don’t know – a ROAD!! I’d love to have heard the discussion that led to leaving it off. “So boss, ya figure we should put dis here ROAD on da map?” “Nah! No sense cluttering up a map with all kindsa useless stuff. That’ll just confuse folks. Besides, this here green is such a pretty color – let’s just leave it, eh?”

In the end, we walked in the dark the eight miles back to our car, and then took that same road all the way to Lake Superior. We camped at a lovely little park near the shore – in a torrential thunderstorm – and woke to find that raccoons had eaten all our food. Also, the rain unleashed a plague of flies of truly biblical proportions. ( You did ask, “What could go wrong?) We did spend one more day on the shore of Lake Superior – camped next to all the cottages that also failed to appear on our map. Eventually, my friends decided they’d had enough fun.

The Lake Superior shoreline …that existed only in our imagination

The learning curve is cruel. There were some obvious lessons learned on this little misadventure. No – the lesson was not that I needed a better class of friends, less willing to quit at the first little hardship. Seriously, this trip taught me the value of good quality maps. You might even say (as Sharon does) that I have something of a map fetish. And let’s not even get started on my bromance with Google Earth. Sharon and our boys have heard this cautionary tale – ad nauseum. Within reason, I want to know where I am and where I’m going. Call me crazy, but something about staring death (in the form of two muddy, tired sixteen year olds) in the face…well, let’s call it a safety issue. Happy hiking (BTW: I have a map you can borrow).

Incessant Forward Motion

I’m a huge fan of the author Bill Bryson. If you haven’t read his hilarious, laugh-out-loud masterpiece “A Walk in the Woods” I won’t judge you….too harshly, but you really should read it. After twenty years abroad, he also agreed to write a weekly column of observations about moving back to the U.S. In one column he commented on how much Americans rely on cars and how little we walk. He referenced a university study that found 93% of all trips from home took place in an automobile.

As I pondered his humorous observations, I immediately thought of two recent stories related to his comments. On a hike in Norway, we met Sebastian and his mom. Sebastian was in the Swedish military, and as part of his training, actually had spent time in Tucson. One night, he and several of his friends decided to walk to a grocery. The first thing they found was that as a pedestrian, you couldn’t get there from here. There were no sidewalks and no crosswalks across the several lanes of traffic, only concrete barriers, ditches and fences. Sebastian and his mates took this as a personal challenge and actually found a way past all the obstacles and walked to the store and back. On their journey, they were stopped not once – but twice – by well meaning Tucson police who asked “Is there a problem?” After being assured their mission was purely domestic in nature, both officers helpfully offered “Would you like a ride?” Sebastian found it both amusing that people walking would attract such attention.

Sharon, Sebastian and his mom on the Romsdalseggen ridge hike.

Second story: A few years ago a group of us hiked a goodly chunk of the John Muir Trail. One of the participants lives just outside of Green Bay, Wisconsin. In preparation, Phil loaded his backpack and hiked back and forth on a road with some sizable hills. When he shared with a friend that on a Saturday morning he had covered ten miles in this fashion, the friend asked “Why, is your car broken down?” No, Phil assured them, this was in preparation for a long backpacking trip. Unable to wrap their head around the concept, the friend pressed on. “Because if your car isn’t working, we have an extra we can loan you until you get yours fixed.” It helps to understand that in Wisconsin the basic food groups are cheese, meat in tubular form and beer (I say this with love as a proud Wisconsin native).

Phil on the JMT…not looking for his car I might add.

Both these stories, as well as Bryson’s comments, serve to highlight a problem. It is hard to swim upstream in a culture that prefers to float down the lazy river. And when communities make automobile travel not only the preferred, but the only possible form of travel, small wonder that we find it easier to “go with the flow.” Having said that, I’m not going to do anything drastic like give up my car…”you can have my car when you pry it from my cold, dead fingers”. This is also not meant to be a political thing. Bryson speaks sadly of a community out east that invested millions of dollars making its downtown pedestrian friendly – only to see pedestrians stay away in droves. Turns out people didn’t like having to walk from wherever they parked their cars in order to be pedestrians.

What I am going to do, and suggest, that I/we in one small way attempt to swim upstream. In the coming year I’m going to strive to embrace human power every single day. I’m setting the bar very low. My goal is to move either one mile or twenty minutes every single day. I’m not counting “steps” at work. (True confession – a lot of steps at work are to the kitchen area to see if someone brought in Dunkin’ Donuts, or homemade cookies, or leftover Halloween candy. Hey, I’m being honest here!) So that’s it. Move by human power every single day outside of work. I’m not going to save the planet or change the culture. But I actually did this a couple of years ago and made it all the way to April or May before breaking my streak. Several things happened during that streak. 1) I felt better. I exercise plenty, but making a point to get exercise every single day, even when I was sick or tired, ultimately made me feel better. 2) It became self-perpetuating. The longer the streak went on, the more I wanted the streak to continue, and the better I felt (see #1) And 3) It affected my decision making. Drive the car or ride the bike to work? If I ride the five mile round trip to work, I won’t have to anything else if I don’t work out that day.

Start walking early…

While I harbor no illusions, it occurs that maybe 4) walking/riding won’t be so uncommon and out of the ordinary in our culture. While this probably happens less in Flagstaff than in some places, wouldn’t it be wonderful if people walking didn’t seem odd and attract the attention of police? Wouldn’t it be wonderful if people didn’t assume your car was broken down if they saw you walking? Wouldn’t it be wonderful if towns become more pedestrian/biker friendly – not because a few people mandated it because it is something you should do it – but because that’s what people really did – and wanted? Oh well. Baby steps…starting January 1 who’s with me. I don’t have a catchy name or anything – maybe something like 365 Challenge. Call it what you will, but in 2019 let’s seize the carp!

Friends – Episode #2

2001 marked an exciting new chapter in our lives when a job change brought us to Flagstaff. Not only did a move to the southwest open up more opportunities for adventure, it introduced us to a whole new circle of active friends. Since this and the previous post are all about some of the people who have been part of our adventures, here’s a little background on just a few of our old and new companions. 

“We are not relations, sir.”              -Forrest Gump.

“Dan Boss” and I went to high school together. Since our college days we’ve been roaming the world together on countless adventures. Phil “Yard Sale” is also a regular companion, from our earliest frozen Boundary Water trips to the present. 

Joel and Alison. Joel and I also attended high school together. These two are a real “power” couple. Alison has high pointed every state …yes, that also means Denali. 0% body fat Joel gets asked if has calf implants. Huh? We’ve combined forces for some amazing adventures…Wind River range, Nepal, Rainier, Grand Canyon, etc.  

Dan Boss somehow managed to pull together a trekking trip to Nepal in 2012. That was a perfect opprtunity to blend old friends,  and create new friendships with Cailie “The Gnome Princess“, husband “Handsome Rob“, Andrew  and Allison (who remained behind with the young ‘uns.)

Work brought us together with Karen “I never met an adventure I didn’t like“(left) and Jeannette (our newly ‘adopted’ daughter). In the middle is Heather, good friend of Cailie (and now ours as well) .  

Heather, Sander and Jeannette. Sander (from the Netherlands)  was six weeks into a southwest bike tour when we gave him a ride from Kayenta to Flagstaff. He joined us for a trip into the Canyon. Given the company, he thought he had died and gone to heaven

“FloJo” and “White Stallion” on the JMT. We met Michelle shortly after moving to Flag. We were thrilled several years later when these two wonderful people tied the knot.  

Co-workers K-Bart and Allison. Yes, Allison really is that cheerful. If she wasn’t so nice it probably would be annoying. 

Co-worker Glenn moved here from Maine less than a year ago. In that short time she apparently knows everybody and seems to have explored everywhere. Strong work!

Going through photos for this post, it is amazing to us how many different trips we’ve taken, and how many different people have combined to make those trips so enjoyable.  It has also been interesting and fun to see how often we’ve reshuffled the friends deck and come up with different combinations of friends on different trips. Sharon and I love spending time together, and we are incredibly compatible when it comes to likes/dislikes/capability/etc.  Adding another person/people to the mix always has the potential to the change the dynamic in uncomfortable ways. Looking back at the trips through the years, these folks have always added to our enjoyment. 

These pictures by no means an exhaustive list of either friends or the good times we’ve had with them. Sharon and count ourselves incredibly blessed to have not just “acqaintances” but so many true friends. Here’s a big shout out and thank you to all the folks who enrich our lives.  Every mutual fund advert comes with the warning that past performance does not guarantee future returns. When it comes to friends I’m going to disagree. I would say past performance is a pretty good indicator of what will happen. I am looking forward to more good times with old and hopefully, lots of new friends.  

Love Letter to Flagstaff

If you’ve read any of my posts since we’ve returned from Norway, you know that both Sharon and I developed a serious crush on that country. The historically good weather and amazing scenery were big factors of course, but so was the culture. It was so appealing to see so many people doing the right thing, the decent thing, just because that’s what you do as part of a community. We actually felt a bit guilty for bagging on our home turf as much as we did. At the hotel on our last night, I recall Sharon saying, “We’re going to have to fall in love with Flagstaff again.

It has now been almost 4 months since we returned home from across the pond. While my feelings for Norway haven’t changed, I think I’ve fallen in love with Flagstaff again. A few weeks ago, friends from work met up for an off trail hike in the Grand Canyon. We hit the trail early on a Saturday, missed the south rim crowds, and within a few hours were enjoying the views from a seldom visited location within the park.

Afterwards, we sat on the rim and enjoyed a celebratory libation. As we looked out over the expanse, recounting our adventure – we all shared the same thought.  The Grand Canyon is a “bucket list” item for many people. No doubt many of the people sharing our view at the overlook were on a “trip of a lifetime.” Yet, because we live in Flagstaff, we were able to cruise up to the Canyon for the day and have an amazing adventure. Hard not to love that about living in Flagstaff.

The next weekend we joined the throngs downtown Flagstaff during the “First Friday Artwalk.” After some tasty pizza at Il Rosso, we met with several friends at Mother Road Brewery. As usual, the place was full of happy people enjoying a pleasantly warm evening. Next morning I was staring at a list of home repair projects longer than my arm. We decided to do the responsible thing, seize the carp and head to Sedona for a hike instead. Forty-five minutes after pulling out of the driveway, after a lovely drive through world class scenery in Oak Creek Canyon, we arrived at our trail head. We spent a beautiful morning enjoying the incomparable views of the Sedona area.

Yes – there are certainly things about Flagstaff that irritate. Entitled dog owners who refuse to believe leash laws on the trails apply to them. NAU threatening to swallow Flagstaff whole. Traffic on Milton stupid busy all year ’round now, not just on busy summer and winter weekends.  But you know what – I still love Flagstaff. I love that I can run and bike year round on trails right from our door step or within a short drive. I love that I can ski on Friday afternoon after work, whitewater kayak on Saturday and rock climb on Sunday…which we did in March a few years ago. I love that every time we walk around downtown, we meet friends from work, or church, or from Sharon’s running group, or old neighbors, or from shared adventures. I love that I can look out our living room window to see a 12,633′ mountain surrounded by our little corner of the largest ponderosa pine forest in the world. I love that within a half day’s drive we can be mountain biking in Moab, boogie boarding in San Diego, or lost in the San Juan mountains of Colorado.

Don’t worry Norway! What we had was more than just a summer fling…it was love. But we also love our mountain home. Now that I think about it, there are quite a few places that I love. Maybe we don’t have to be ‘monogamous’ when it comes to places we love. Maybe Crosby, Stills and Nash had it right when they sang, “If you can’t be with the one you love, honey, love the one you’re with.”  Maybe one of the secrets to happiness is to be able to love wherever you find yourself. Right now – I love Flagstaff! So, if you happen to be in our neighborhood, we would love to share what we love. And I hope you love wherever you’re at as well. Next summer when we start traveling, it would be fun to visit, to see what you love about your home town.

Family gathering at “The Treehouse”.

 

Impossible Norway: Part 1 – A Love Letter

Norge, Jeg elsker deg

This may seem strange for me to say since we’ve only just met – but I’m in love. People told me that you could be dark and gloomy, but in the short time we had together I’ve only seen your bright, sunny disposition. The more we got to know you, the more you revealed of yourself, the more there was to love. The three weeks we spent together were magical…and not long enough. To quote the Bard, “Parting is such sweet sorrow, that I shall say good-night til it be morrow.” I get it. I didn’t want to leave. I’m already counting the days when I can return.

Sharon (November 2017): “Hey Dave, do you think you can get – or are you willing to take – three weeks off next summer?

Dave: Hmmmm. For what?

Sharon: Not saying quite yet….

Who wouldn’t say yes to that kind of offer? Sharon is not entirely sure where the idea came from, but a few weeks later she revealed that she’d been exploring the possibility of visiting Norway. Normally, given my somewhat limited vacation time, I’m reluctant to put all my free time “eggs” in one basket. But just Google Norway images! I mean it! Stop reading right now, minimize this screen and Google Norway and look at some of the pictures that come up. After drooling over my keyboard for just five minutes I was trying to come up with a plan to spend three months there.

The “We have to go!” decision was the easy part. The hard part was trying to figure out how to explore a lifetime’s worth of beautiful country in only three weeks. We started with a basic philosophical choice. Do we try to see a little bit of a lot, or a lot of a little? In other words, travel the length and breadth of the country and see as much (albeit superficially) as we possibly can? Or pick one region to explore in depth? That’s a tough choice to make. Every new Google search revealed a new, impossibly beautiful area that practically begged us to come and explore. Finally simple logistics helped us decide on a middle ground. Norway is simply too large. Imagine if California stretched from Mexico all the way to Canada…that’s basically the size of Norway. Neither of us wanted to spend multiple days simply traveling from point A to B to C, etc. In the end we based most of our travel in the northern part of the southern 1/3 of the country.

I’ll go into more detail in following posts, but anyone who has listened to us gush about Norway knows that we both absolutely fell in love with the country. Granted, we probably had the best three weeks of weather in Norway since the Vikings started collecting detailed climate information. And granted, we were just tourists traveling through, so our observations are, by necessity, somewhat superficial. But the bottom line is – we love Norway. We loved the people we met. We loved the culture. We both would love to go back. We both have said (not really in jest, or even half in jest) that if we didn’t have family here – we would seriously considering moving to Norway.

That’s all for now. Just wanted to throw a tease out there. I have several Norway installments planned. In part I’ve been waiting for my camera to join us back in the states. Near the end of our trip, I apparently put my camera on top of the car when we returned from a climb. I reached out to the kind folks at the Sota Saeter lodge near the trailhead, on the off chance that someone turned it in. I’m not sure what all took place, but a few days later Birgit emailed me to say that my camera had been found (slightly worse for wear and tear) ten miles down the road. Plans are currently underway for my memory stick to be sent. As soon as we get reunited, there will be stories and photos aplenty.

 

 

 

Sweating the Small Stuff

It’s the title of best selling book. There are memes all over the internet. “Don’t sweat the small stuff – it’s all small stuff.” There’s a valid point there, but I also think it’s become a bit of a cliche – and it’s not always true. I work in Quality Control. If I don’t sweat the “small stuff” I probably won’t work in QC very long. A big part of making relationships work is “sweating the small stuff”…saying ‘please’ and ‘thank you’, picking up dirty socks without being asked, really listening, noticing acts of kindness and complimenting, saying “I love you”, etc.

It seems that there might also be a tendency to overlook the “small stuff” in favor of dreaming/planning/prepping for “big stuff” trips. We definitely look forward to the big one and two week backpacking, or boating, or climbing trips that we typically take each year. Part of the fun for us in planning a big trip is talking about what we hope to do, discussing variations and possibilities, etc.  The big trips we’ve taken certainly hold a special place in our hearts and memory. There’s a danger, however, in focusing only on the “big stuff” trips. You could easily miss out on the joy and satisfaction that comes from the “small stuff”.

This past Memorial weekend was a classic example. We had planned what for us was a “big deal” trip. Unfortunately those plans fell through. So, we stayed in town and accepted an invite from Allison K for an early Saturday morning hike to a classic AZ swimming hole. It was an amazing morning! We had a great

time chatting with Allison and her friends on the relatively mellow hike. We enjoyed the beauty of the creek and the red rock cliffs at the swimming hole. We enjoyed the refreshing swim in crystal clear water. The more adventurous souls among us enjoyed cliff jumping. We beat the heat and the massive crowds of tourons descending on the creek as we were leaving. We were home by mid-day.

That same weekend Sharon and I took a trail run on one of our favorite Elden trails. We hung out. We talked. We went down town and enjoyed a pint at one of the great Flag microbrews. For the price of a couple of beers we had a great weekend doing “small stuff.” The point of all this, if there really needs to be a point, is the encouragement to not wish your life away looking forward to and waiting for the “big” trips and the grand adventures. Sweating the small stuff may just be another way to say “make the most of every day!” Enjoy the little adventures whenever and wherever you find them. Seize the Carp!

 

80 Years of Living Large

They told you life is hard
it’s misery from the start
it’s dull and slow and painful

I tell you life is sweet
in spite of the misery
there’s so much more
be grateful

-Natalie Merchant

Twenty-five plus years ago my Mother went through a painful divorce (philandering husband). Then she was diagnosed with cancer and endured all the attendant indignities of surgery and treatment. When she came out the far side of that dark tunnel, despite all the difficulties and hardships, her often expressed attitude was…and is, “Every day is a gift.” Now I will confess to not being entirely objective, but in the past 25+ years I have observed an individual who didn’t just say those words, she has lived it. This past weekend, with the help of sister Sandy and brother-in-law Blair (good job guys), I was able to sneak away from Flagstaff and into her basement in northern Wisconsin in order to surprise her on the morning of her 80th birthday. After the shock of the surprise wore off, a good time was had by all. We ate sumptuously, played games, told stories and laughed until we hurt. It was nice to have Mike and Lori join us for an evening, and to meet the parade of friends who stopped by to wish Mom a “happy birthday”.  And, I witnessed again an individual who still lives with the belief that “every day is a gift.” Despite the various insults of aging (Grant likes to say “getting old isn’t for sissies”) Mom and Grant soldier on and find pleasure each and every day…in the company of friends and each other.  In the great adventure of life, they have well and truly seized the carp. Well done Mom! I love you! (BTW: I still know you all cheated at 3-13…just saying).

Every parent’s goal…embarrass the kids with a public display of affection. Strong work Mom!