Italy 2026 – A Human Powered Bella Vita #3

On September 6, 2026September 6, 2026 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain Stuff, On the RoadLeave a comment

August 30 – September 5, 2026

Day 14: Sunday, August 30… Work smarter not harder. I heard that somewhere. We smartly booked a night in the Hotel Costabella in San Pelligrino. Luxury! It was so nice it was almost embarassing. It even had a spa and hot tub. Since it was apparently “clothing not allowed”, we passed. All but one rifugio/hotel for this trip is “half-board”, which means dinner and breakfast are included in the (eye watering) price of the room. Costabella was on a different level. We reveled in flavors heretofore unexplored. The quantity and quality of both dinner and breakfast left us well fueled for a big day.

We also smartly jumped on a gondola to save 1,000 feet of climbing. It made sense given that our goal for the day was Rifugio Mulaz, one of the more remote places along the AV2. Early on we wandered through alpine meadows. By afternoon we left vegetation behind and entered a world of rock and scree. Every ridge we topped revealed another higher still. Words cannot express our joy at reaching our goal. Hard to imagine a more stunning setting.

We were assigned tables for dinner and breakfast. We met Missy, a nurse from Eagle, Colorado. Naturally, half way around the world in one of the most remote huts in the Dolomites, we find we have a mutual friend. Missy works with a very good friend of our son and daughter-in-law, and ours as well. Small world indeed. Missy and her friend Robin, a Seattle couple, a British couple, Sharon and I had lively conversation that lasted long after our palty dinner. Side note: from all the Colorado people (12+ so far) out here, is anyone left in CO?

Also hard to imagine a less comfortable setting. We were assigned bunks in what became known as the “sardine room”. All eleven bunks were physically touching, which meant I slept closer to a stranger than I normally do with Sharon in our queen bed. The symphony of snores was spectacular. We had the “grumpy grizzley bear growl” snore. The steady “auto rumble strip” snore. Across the room someone added a higher pitched “revving crotch rocket motorcycle” snore. And according to my lovely bride, I added to the harmony with my heavy breathing.

Day 15: Monday, August 31…

In our home mountains, we generally cover a mile uphill in 20-30 minutes, maybe 45 if it is really steep. Our first mile today took us two hours of blood, sweat and tears – literally. Straight up, straight down then a traverse to a hell-spawned scree and boulder slope. This led to a via ferrata section on both sides of a pass extreme enough to bring Sharon to tears. That was the first mile.

1st climb – you see the obvious route, yes?

It became less death defying as the day wore on, but no less difficult. Most people we talked to were stopping after four and a half miles at Rifugio Rosetta (smart move). We stopped there long enough to refuel and wait out a passing rain storm. It was a welcome sight several hours later when we finally laid eyes on Rifugio Pradidali, our home for the evening. By every measure it was an improvement.

Pradidali was a big step up in comfort. We got settled and spent the hours before dinner enjoying somr drinks, the views and playing cards. Tonight at our assigned table we had two Italian climbers, a young American couple from near Denver (of course), and an Indian couple now living in Munich. Such a diverse mix of people once again made for lively banter.

The recent landscape has been beyond stunning. It is everything we were led to believe about the Dolomites.While we don’t mind working hard, the extreme difficulty has been a bit more than expected. We are both looking forward to a lighter effort day two days hence.

Day 16: Tuesday, SEPTEMBER 1… The route description from yesterday’s heinous section said this, “This remote and remarkable route is a delight!”. Hmmmm. The same guide describes the AV2 climb and descent beyond Pradidali as a “steep, rocky trail with some cables to assist in the more exposed areas.” That is followed by a 4,000′ “kneebreaker” descent that is “quite challenging with loose, moving scree“, and “some hands-on sections along the steep rocky track.” Doesn’t that sound special!

Might there be options? Without wifi or cell service to aid us, we went old school. On an old paper map from the rifugio we found an alternate path to the valley floor that skipped all the silliness. It was better than imagined. We still had a huge drop, but relatively easy by Dolomite standards. Lower down we strolled through forests and along streams. We traversed beautiful meadows. At one point we met the Denver couple from the previous evening. These young, capable climbers said the standard route was, “really technical and pretty sketchy!” Yeah us! We “chose wisely!”

Our day wasn’t over though. We still had to climb over the Forcella d’Oltro to get to the next valley. At times it was more like low-grade rock climbing than hiking.

Along this stretch of AV2, rifugio Cereda is the normal place to stay. We’d been unable to book a room and thus we’re forced to traverse some distance in the wrong direction along a barely beaten path.

Malga (mountain hut) Cavallera was worth the extra distance. It was modern, spacious, friendly – and eerily empty. We were the only trekkers in the dorm room! It was puzzling! But after the last few nights, we weren’t complaining. It was a glorious night of luxury.

Day 17: Wednesday, Sept. 2… With several hard days behind and a challenging trail ahead, this had been planned as a light day. We made the most of it. We strolled through the forest along a path recommended by our host. Three miles and a thousand some feet down we arrived at the tiny town of Mis. After a quick snack from a local shop, we allowed the bus to whisk us to the top of the pass and rifugio Cereda.

We came over that…?
View from the Cavallera bunk room.

Day 18: Thursday, Sept 3…

As often happens on a through hike like this, we’ve fallen in with a group moving in the same direction and staying at the same rifugios. Anxiety levels were high at rifugio Cereda. We all faced a climb of 2,600 feet in a mile and a half. If you haven’t been in the mountains there is no way to describe how steep that is.

Turns out it was insanely steep, but not quite as bad as we all imagined. This ended up being our biggest elevation day of the trip. But that was not what made the day memorable. Our little United Nations tribe leapfrogged each other throughout the day. Everyone was cheery and encouraging. The scenery, as always, was Dolomite stunning. The setting of rifugio Boz was postcard perfect. After an ok dinner, almost everyone moved outside to chat and watch the colors fade behind the peaks. By all accounts, it was a very good day.

Smiles all around at the top of the big climb

Day 19: Friday, Sept 4… One last big day on the trail. Many in our group are hiking the nine challenging miles from Boz to rifugio Dal Piaz. Several others are continuing another three miles to the small village of Croce d’Aune to catch a bus into Feltre. We are in the first group.

The mountains today had a very different feel. There was the usual dose of straight up, and jagged peaks. For most of the day though, we were immersed in the color green. Meadows and even the peaks were cloaked in a mantle of greenery. In spite of the hard work, we arrived early at Dal Piaz and shared some final beers with those who were contingent one. Definitely a bittersweet day.

It was a perfect last evening. Members of our tribe arrived through the afternoon and gathered for happy hour on the “patio” of Dal Piaz. I moved inside and chatted with Frank. He was the older half (74) of the pair of Irish mountain goats who were racing around the Dolomites like it was a stroll in the park. At dinner we sat and chatted with our Austrian mother/daughter and young Dutch/German couple. Fascinating people all. BTW – the mushroom and speck lasagna was to die for! The second course was beautifully prepared beef and potatoes. Dessert was apple kuchen with vanilla creme. Well played Dal Piaz!

Day 20: Saturday, Sept 5… The small town of Croce d’Aune looked like a tiny scale model village 3,000+ feet below. At this point in our hike, it required no special effort to make the descent. We did enjoy the whimsical wooden sculptures scattered along the trail. We arrived in time to enjoy one of many “final” gatherings of the tribe before the bus to Feltre arrived.

Austria, Netherlands, Germany, UK, U.S., Aussie. What a great, fun , wonderful group.

Final thoughts: The Dolomites delivered! We wanted beautiful mountains – check! We wanted a challenging hike – CHECK!! We hoped to meet interesting, like minded individuals – definitely check! We looked forward to the huts and the luxury of not hauling camping gear and food – ummm, sort of check? I think we envisioned a somewhat more leisurely stroll with time to enjoy a beer and lunch at a rifugios along the way. In reality the trail was so hard we typically did not have the time or mental bandwidth to dawdle. And it was often cool/windy/cloudy enough that a lengthy stop for lunch wasn’t especially appealing. The huts and hotels ranged from “OMG can you believe how nice this is?” to “adequate” but always in amazing locations.

The big question is always – would we do it again? The qualified answer is probably yes. But now with one hut to hut under our belt, I think we would be more discerning. We would aim for beauty as always, but also something a bit more … relaxed. But that’s for another day. Now we have biking plans to make and a whole country to explore. Until next week Seize the Carp!!

Italy 2026 – A Human Powered Bella Vita #2

On August 30, 2026August 30, 2026 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain Stuff, On the Road3 Comments

August 23 – 29, 2026

Day 6: Sunday, August 23… A long day yesterday left us with a mere dozen miles to reach Feltre. That was by design. We wanted adequate time to organize gear and nail down transportation for our travel day tomorrow. Success on every front. It was beautiful riding along the Piave River.

These folks are serious about their relaxation

The last few years have offered up a crash course on navigating public transport. So far we’ve only been kicked off one train and gotten into an argument with one bus driver (I’m especially proud of that one – since it was in Spanish). Which is all to say we finally ended up with the means to get from point A to B … we think. Tomorrow will tell the tale.

The rest of the afternoon was equally productive. We sorted gear. We packed excess gear and found a safe home for our bikes for the next two weeks. We feasted on another grocery store dinner. We even had time for a walk around the neighborhood before settling in for the night.

In two weeks we will walk down from those peaks

Day 7: Monday, August 24… Forty one years ago Sharon and I said “I do” to a life of adventure together. And what a wild ride it’s been – and continues to be! How apropos that we celebrate our special day in a charming city in the heart of the Dolomites of northern Italy.

It took six hours, three different trains and a bus criss-crossing the Italian countryside to get us from Feltre to Bressanone. Well worth it.

The final leg of our “travel day” journey

Tomorrow we head out (up) into 100% chance of rain and thunderstorms to begin our twelve day trek back to Feltre and our bikes.

Day 8: Tuesday, August 25… It was a day! One hour of bus and gondola travel saved us 6,000′ of climbing. (Good idea!) Hiking in the clouds and rain? (Meh!) Amazing views when the clouds broke (Outstanding!) Confusing trails and signage, especially in impenetrable fog (Could be better!)

Overall – it was an amazing day in the Dolomites. Whenever the clouds lifted, we were treated to sublime views. All around were peaks, ridges, spires and valleys. We met interesting people along the trail and in the rifugio.

At one point during the day, a dozen cows and an equal number of hikers all took the same narrow trail. That worked fine until the cows figured they’d gone far enough. Gridlock ensued.

Chaos and confusion reigned, until one brave cow led the herd to a slow vehicle pullout. All hikers safely passed and order was restored to the forest.

Cows weren’t the only thing making life difficult. On again off again misty rain was a bother. It was a long uphill grind did the most to wear us down.

We topped out in a soupy fog. However, as we made the final traverse to the Schleuter Hutte, the clouds parted. We were given a tiny preview at what we have to look forward to on clear days.

Our first night in a rifugio was mixed. Staff was super good at organizing the chaos of many dozens of hikers seeking food and shelter. Excellent food and conversation around our communal table made the evening fly by. The downside is that rifugios are busy, boisterous places with very little privacy. Eight of us shared a tiny room. As son Kevin commented, “So you’re saying the old college cram isn’t really your jam anymore?” Very astute grasshopper.

Day 9: Wednesday, August 26… Sharon and I have done some hiking. We know what distances and altitude we can handle. We used that experience to plan this hike. Turns out we may have underestimated the difficulty of hiking in the Dolomites. This day was a butt kicker.

This little gem was our second climb of the day

But wait, if you order now we’ll throw in an extra set of gnarly climbs at no extra cost!

Kind of unseemly complaining about hiking when we’re wandering through this landscape… so we won’t. Suffice to say we earned every one of these views.

One measure of the popularity of these hikes is that all lodging on the trail had been completely booked in February. We detoured off trail several miles to Badia to reach our hotel for the night.

Day 10: Thursday, August 27… “We didn’t see that coming!” We knew it was going to be a big climbing day – over 4,000′ vertical. For comparison, you gain 3,300 vertical feet climbing Humphreys peak outside Flagstaff. Getting to the top of Engineer Peak north of Durango involves 2,200′ -ish feet of uphill travel. What we did not expect was hundreds and hundreds of feet of via ferrata climbing. It wasn’t a designated via ferrata route…just the regular trail. We both enjoyed the challenge, but it was much steeper and harder than anticipated. Our motto for the day “We’re not slow! Its just slow going!”

We also did not expect surrounding peaks to be hidden behind a thick haze. We assumed forest fires were to blame. Apparently “high summer temperatures and humidity frequently trap moisture and fine particles in alpine valleys, creating a milky or hazy obstruction around high mountain passes.”

The haze did not do any favors to the Sella massif. We spent much of our day passing through this luna landscape. It was interesting, but…unimpressive. The last bit of “meh” came after Rifugio Boe. A gondola deposited hordes of daytrippers at elevation only a few miles from the rifugio. We found ourselves in almost unbroken conga line stretching in both directions. I

With age comes wisdom. We followed the conga line to the top of Sass Pordoi tram, flashed some plastic, and miraculously were transported thousands of feet to the valley below. Brilliant!

Day 11: Friday, August 28… Fun facts. The road over Passo Pordoi was built in 1905 to open the area to tourism. This second highest pass in the Dolomites has been featured in the Giro d’Italia bike race over forty times, and four times as the finish line. During WWI, brutal fighting took place between Italian troops and Austrian-Hungarian forces. The high peaks and ridges of this area served as the front lines. Hard to imagine.

Statue honoring famous Italian cyclist Fausto Coppi. He won the Giro d’Italia five times.

Our Italian word for today is “Ventoso” – “very windy” perfectly describes our day today. We had a very civilized six mile hike from Pordoi pass to Fedaia pass.

Yes, there was still plenty of elevation, both up and down, but more gradual. The trail was better. We exchanged yesterday’s lunar landscape for verdant valleys and honrst to goodness glaciers! It was all good, except for “ventoso”. Wind gusts were strong enough to literally blow Sharon off her feet. It was ventoso enough to require shouting within a few feet of each other to be heard. As we passed Fedaia Lake, gusts would drive freight train walls of spray the length of the lake. Other times, downdraft microbursts would hit the lake and explode – sending up huge plumes of spray. Wild. We were happy to arrive early at our rifugio.

Civilized hiking with the Marmolada massif and glacier in the background.

Fun fact. The barely visible Marmolade glacier has shrunk by 90% in the last century. In WWI, the front lines actually crossed the much larger glacier. Austrians actually carved out and built an “ice city” inside the glacier. As the glacier melts, war artifacts are still being found. Now you know.

Day 12: Saturday, August 29… Rifugio Fedaia seems to be a family run affair. The accommodations were very nice. The food was excellent and plentiful. The family in charge were grim and grumpy. Somebody doesn’t love their job.

I feel like we hit our stride today! Caught the local bus and skipped three miles of trail that just followed the road three miles down to the bottom of the valley. We hiked today with youngster Marwen from the Netherlands. He was born there, but his family came from Morocco and Tunisia. When he is not squeezing adventures into his busy schedule, he works part time while attending pharmacy school. Our conversations made the time pass quickly.

And just like that we had topped out at over 9,500′. We joined an organized group at a small summit. It included a young woman from Chicago, two Irish lasses, Brits and Kiwis. Before the trip they were complete strangers. “Now we know everything about each other” they said. Clearly they were having more fun than humans should be allowed. We also ran into Leo and Abby from Denver. We’d spent several hours in their company on night one. Felt like running into old friends. Funny how that happens on the trail.

A quick hike down (with one quick stop for a rifugio beer) brought us to San Pellegrino and our lodging for the night. We said good-night to Marwen with every expectation that we will cross paths again.

Tonight is our last hotel of our trip. Except for the first night, we’ve ended every day and spent our nights where a busy road crosses a popular pass. Going forward, it looks like we will be in rifugios in a more remote region. In fact we may not cross a road again until we reach Feltre at the end. We’re looking forward to it. Our trip in the Dolomites really hasn’t felt like a “through hike”. It has felt more like we are doing a series of day hikes connected by posh accommodations. I suspect that feeling will change.

But that’s to be seen, and of course we will let you! Until then, seize the carp people!

Italy 2026 – A Human Powered Bella Vita.

On August 23, 2026August 23, 2026 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Biking Stuff, On the Road5 Comments

August 18 – 22, 2026

Day 1: Tuesday, August 18 … Travel.

Day 2: Wednesday, August 19 … Benvenuti in Italia!! Fifteen hours from DRO to DFW to VCE (Venice, Italy). Even though we do this on a regular basis, there is nothing like the stress of “Did I remember to pack…?” “And “Is everything ready for us to be gone for two and a half months?” Or, “Our flight is delayed! What happens if we don’t make our connection?”

Like every other trip, we answered those questions, and a hundred others. Yes, we brought everything we need. Yes, life will go on in our absence! Yes, we made our connection in spite of the delay. And, thanks to Sharon’s excellent find, we changed our flight at the last minute to use miles and get extra comfy seats in Economy Plus. Luxury!All our gear arrived undamaged and in a timely fashion. And in spite of Komoot once again trying to kill us, (we should know better), we arrived downtown, mainland Venice a few hours after noon (4am Durango time).

We spent a leisurely afternoon dealing with jet lag and planning our time in one of the world’s most visited tourist sites during the busiest time of the year. It will be interesting.

Day 3: Thursday, August 20 … At its height, the Roman empire stretched from modern day Iraq in the east, through northern Africa, to Spain in the west, and as far north as England. It included all of modern day Europe. Imagine watching greedy, arrogant, incompetent, corrupt leaders piss it all away. I know, hard to imagine. As that once mighty empire deteriorated, people living near modern Venice were subjected to constant attacks and raids by ‘barbarians’ from the north. It was so bad that people found it preferable living in reed and mud houses built on stilts miles from shore in the marshy lagoon. Eventually, those resourceful (and now safe) settlers drove millions of logs straight down into the mud of the lagoon to serve as a solid base to build on. This is Venice’s origin story. Much the same is true of the nearby islands of Murano and Burano.

From those humble beginnings, Venice grew to be a trading and naval powerhouse. That time also passed. Now Venice deals with different invaders. Every year thirty plus million suitcase toting, selfie sticking tourists overrun the city.

We arrived, sans suitcase or selfie stick – but we arrived as part of the tourist hordes all the same. As Sharon has aptly observed “popular places are popular for a reason.” I get Venice’s popularity. It is cool. It is unique. Narrow alleys and canals weave and jog between charming buildings all very much showing their age. The canals, large and small are not just a tourist attraction. They serve the very real function of moving people and goods to around the city.

Since there was no way around being part of the hordes, we at least tried to be smart about it. We arrived early. We enjoyed seeing the major attractions, and then wandered far off the well beaten path. We spent the afternoon visiting the islands of Lido, Murano and Burano. It was interesting, and enjoyable. By late afternoon though, jet lag and tropical conditions had worn us down. We retreated to our air-conditioned room on the mainland for an early night.

Day 4: Friday, August 21… As veterans of a whole day of touristing, we employed a different approach this morning. We hopped of the bus directly onto a vaporetto – the everpresent water ferries that ply the waters all around Venice. These also happen to be part of our two day Venice transit pass. The #2 took us around the north and west sides of the island. We hopped off when the spirit moved us to explore an interesting looking area. We wandered down tiny alleys, into courtyards and along canals. Another vaporetto took us down the main canal to the bus station midday, as the rain showed no sign of stopping. We weathered the thunderstorms from the comfort of our room.

By early evening the storms had passed, so back to Venice we went. We spent the evening strolling, people watching (a favorite pastime), and sampling food and wine. As we walked, it struck us – in spite of the tourism, Venice is a real city! Well duh! No really. Many historic cities appear to be hollowed out shells. The only “residents” are tourists in short term rentals. Many seem more like Disney attractions than places where people live and work. We found neighborhoods in Venice where people hung out their laundry, walked their dogs, watched kids play, walked home past graffiti covered walls with their grocery carts, and stopped to chat with friends along the way. Regular folks living regular lives on their amazing, historic, rundown, unique island – that’s the Venice I will remember.

Day 5: Saturday. August 22… Our plan: spend two weeks hiking the Alta Via 2 in the Dolomites. The hike begins in the town of Bressanone, and ends in Feltre. We made arrangements to spend Sunday night at a guest house in Feltre. Monday morning we will take a train to Bressanone. The guest house owners have agreed to store our bikes until we return. Our goal today is to ride into the Dolomite foothills to the small town of Quero.

We put the ocean and Venice in our rear view mirrors and headed north. For most of the day we managed to find lovely, quiet backroads. Even on the busier roads, Italian drivers do not deserve their reputation for being aggressive and reckless. Everyone was courteous and considerate. The Sun was not so nice. It forced us to make regular shade stops to keep from overheating. How rude! Still, our first day of biking was a success. We reached Quero. Found dinner at the local market. Rinsed a gross amount of salt off our bodies. And enjoyed our evening in this charming mountain town.

It feels good to be on the road again. There are lots of moving parts with this trip, and we’re grateful everything has gone smoothly – for the most part. This next week will see us begin traversing what already looks like some amazing terrain. Until then- Seize the Carp!

Also…Sharon has started posting to Polarsteps. If you follow her, you not only get her side of the story, you get a little sumpin’ sumpin’ every day.

Follow Sharon Neubauer ‘s trips at https://www.polarsteps.com/SharonMoore234?referral=true

Still on the Road #26

On October 17, 2021October 17, 2021 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain Stuff, On the Road1 Comment

Six Wheels: October 10 – 16

Sunday, October 10. I was the only customer at the large casino/sports bar where I intended to watch the Packer game. Weird. The only worker in the establishment spent three hours talking to me…actually at me. (Did I mention the Packer game?) I know everything that can be known about Darryl…every place he’s ever lived and worked, marital status, opinions about his ex and current wife, child, interests and hobbies, opinions about covid, government’s response to covid, the sun’s 12,000 year cycle as it pertains to climate change, ad infinitum, ad nauseum. He knows my name. I didn’t mind, since I really wasnt in a sharing mood (Packer game??) But, I am stunned at how often people, like Darryl, show a complete and utter lack of curiosity…about other people…or the broader world outside themselves. Curious.

The game ended well, and I took advantage of a good weather window to hike up to Lamoille Lake in the Ruby mountains. It was worth soggy feet. Stunning.

Monday, October 11. Very windy + very cold + very snowy + eight days without a shower = a hotel room. The math was simple. Crank the heat. Take a hot, steamy shower. Cook with a microwave. Take advantage of fast wifi. Luxury!

Tuesday, October 12. “Hope springs eternal in the face of experience which proves otherwise!” In spite of failing miserably using Google Maps to find remote campsites in Nevada, I rolled the dice again! The satellite showed a likely spot, and this time I hit it big just into Utah near the Bonneville Salt Flats. It ticked all the boxes. Deserted? Check. Interesting terrain? Check. Free? Check. Mountain hiking at my doorstep? Check. All this with the added bonus of a strong cell signal and a pile of dry firewood. Coincidence? I’d like to suggest a direct connection between this perfect site and my whining a few days ago. Just saying.

Wednesday, October 13. Another frosty morning in the 20’s, but calm and sunny. Perfect weather to explore the local peaks.

After a brief side trip to check out the Bonneville Salt Flats, I made the drive to Salt Lake City to spend the night at daughter-in-law Katie’s apartment. As always an enjoyable time with stimulating conversation and good food. Tomorrow will be a joyful reunion with Sharon at the SLC Airport.

Thursday, October 14. A few days ago, heavy snow snapped a support pole on our small awning. The supply chain issues affecting the entire world have trickled down to me. No replacements are to be found anywhere, at any price. I had some ideas about alternatives, but thought I’d stop in at Hinckley Overlanding in SLC…just to see. Huge shout out to these guys, especially to Darren Scott. We all chatted a bit. I explained my problem. We looked at some hopeful looking alternatives. Then Darren went to his rig, pulled out a spare pole which, while not a match, can be made to work – and just gave it to me. Refused anything in return!!! Random acts of kindness and generosity really are the best thing ever. Always good to remember in my interactions with people. Check them out here. www.hinckleyoverlanding.com

Late afternoon Sharon arrived safely,, and we did have a joyful reunion. Even though we had talked several times while she was away, we had lots catching up. That evening I had the best mole sauce since being first introduced to this amazing food of the gods in Mexico eighteen years ago. Thanks for the suggestion Katie, and thanks for the hospitality.

Friday, October 15. Drive to Durango. Lots of good forward looking conversation as we “plan” our next year of travel. Speaking of joyful reunions…awesome to see the Durango family again!

Saturday, October 16. Nothing warms the heart of a grandparent like actively being a grandparent. That was Saturday.

It’s been a good week. We’re looking forward to another week (together) with Aaron, Vanessa, Oliver and Kiri, and all the family and friends here in Durango. We have another grandchild birthday to celebrate, work to do on vehicles, and a large family/friend camping/mountain bike trip in Oliver’s honor.

Here’s hoping you also have an amazing week to look forward to. STC!

Still on the Road #25

On October 10, 2021October 11, 2021 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain Stuff, On the Road2 Comments

Six Wheels: October 3 – 9

Sunday, October 3. When we met in the Walmart parking lot I counted four teeth when he smiled. His belt fought a losing battle against his sagging landslide of a belly. I made certain… assumptions. Turns out he has an impressive resume of Yosemite big wall climbs, and hard-core backcountry ski trips. Currently he fills his free time racing up to 100mph on “sand yachts” three wheel sail driven vehicles. Not what I assumed!

Sharon flew out this morning to be with her folks and nephew Eric. After stocking up at Walmart for several days of solitude, I traveled about 50 miles east and eventually found a place to spend the night. It was not pretty, but at least it was quiet and remote.

Monday, October 4. If Fallon, Nevada was a paperback book, it was a faded, dog eared, worn and tatty looking one. Based on it’s cover, I also misjudged this particular book. I made what was meant to be a quick stop at the city park to organize gear and fill water jugs. It was meant to be quick, but locals kept stopping by to chat – and they were all so friendly! Hours later I was finally ready to head east. Well done Fallon! I should also add…every friendly Fallonian, completely unprompted, shared their extreme dislike of the Californians who have settled in their fair city! We’ve heard this sentiment often. I wonder if folks from the Golden state realize in what high regard they are held across the west.

Today I found my hoped for solitude. I put the quiet to good use, reading, scaling a local peak and enjoying the total absence of humanity.

Tuesday, October 5. Today was a travel day across Nevada on the county’s “loneliest” highway. Highway 50 crosses a series of north-south mountain ranges, then drops into long flat valleys and dry lake beds in between. While different in texture, it offered the same kind of vast, wide openness as the North Slope of Alaska. Wasn’t expecting that. The day ended in Great Basin National Park where there looks to be several days of climbing, hiking and spelunking.

Wednesday, October 6. The highlight of the day was sitting atop 13,058 foot Wheeler Peak. (See what I did there?) I lounged around the summit, catching occasional glimpses of the mountain and the valley far, far below. Eventually the clouds refused to leave, so I did instead. Im glad I left when I did.. By the time I arrived back at camp, those same clouds were lightening their load. It looks like that rain, and even snow will be my companion for several days.

Prior to the hike, I chatted with the German owners of this behemoth overland vehicle. They’d been traveling the world for several years in that beast. Seems a bit of an overkill just to travel the same places as Sharon and I in and on our humble vehicles. In their defense, we haven’t biked across Africa…yet!

Thursday, October 7. Indecision! Disappointment! Delight! The forecast is for rain pretty much everywhere for several days. What to do? Not content to sit around in the rain, I found several intriguing back roads that led in the general direction of the Ruby mountains. Why not head in that direction and see what happens? Turns out…not much. Lots of mediocrity. And the last 40 miles – disappointment. Even though this part of the state is chock full, filled to the brim with nothing, every square inch is fenced, gated, padlocked and posted. Really? Fine then! I guess I’ll have to find some overpriced, noisy campground (grumble, grumble).

Delight. Imagine my surprise at finding a quiet, mostly empty, cheap and beautiful campsite right in Lamoille Canyon. Once again I stand corrected.

Friday, October 8. After a stormy night that left snow on the surrounding peaks, the sun was a welcome sight. Alas, it didn’t last. A rainy day seemed like a good day to do chores and explore nearby Elko. I completed my chores, and noted that Elko didn’t warrant much exploration. The weather hadn’t improved, so instead I endeavored to improve my mind at the local library. In addition to the books, one can learn much about a town through a bit of unavoidable eavesdropping. Thanks to patrons and staff, my curiosity about Elko was amply rewarded.

I was excited to see that while it had been raining heavily in town, it was snowing up in Lamoille Canyon. Excited until I saw that the wet snow had broken a support pole and partially collapsed our small awning. One more thing added to the list!

Saturday, October 9. As expected, I awoke to find everything covered by several inches of wet snow. It was lovely, but… Sharon and I pride ourselves on being flexible with our plans when circumstances dictate, such as the current weather. Overnight snow has been followed by a cloudy, unpleasant windchill kind of day…with more wintry weather on the menu. I wouldn’t mind, once in a while, not being dictated to and being able to follow through on plans. Lamoille Canyon is filled with hiking opportunities, and I was keen to spend several days exploring the trails. The weather is making that difficult.. Oh well, enough first world whinging right? Suck it up buttercup! I’m warm, dry, well fed, have good books and movies, as well as a nice selection of craft beer from which to choose. And, the wind died enough for a couple mile sunset hike. I shall endeavor to persevere! I hope you do as well. I’ll leave you with some pretty pics. STC!

Still on the Road #24

On October 3, 2021October 3, 2021 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Biking Stuff, On the Road, Water Stuff3 Comments

Six Wheels: September 27 – October 2

Monday, September 27. Question: When are we happiest not being on two wheels? Answer: Days like today!

“The sun did not shine, it was too wet to play, so we sat in the pub on that cold, cold wet day. I sat there with Sharon, we sat there we two. I said, ‘How I wish we had something to chew.” Too wet to go out, too wet to play ball, so we sat in the pub, we ate pretzels and all. And all we could do was to eat, drink, eat, drink, and we liked it a lot, not only a bit.” – The Cat in the Hat (Dave and Sharon style

Tuesday, September 28. Irrational optimism reigned supreme this morning. Surely, the sun will shine today and allow us to combine biking with some hiking in the Redwoods of Jedediah Smith State Park. That worked right up until it didn’t. We hadn’t even gone a mile when the rains came. Back to camp. An hour later we decided a drive would be nice. Good call as it rained on and off . We still managed to sneak in three lovely hikes. I can share pics and use a thesaurus worth of synonyms to describe the redwoods…but really, you just need to see them for yourselves.

Wednesday, September 29. Once again we turned to the Konas to experience the redwoods. We found a loop that included a coastal hiking/biking trail and a scenic highway. The coastal trail was definitely more hike than bike, and became a full body workout. We ended the day though having seen a remote stretch of coastline, elk, and more of the amazing redwoods.

Another highlight of the day was meeting Ann. An experienced rider, she is making her way from home in Port Angeles down the coast as far as time and desire allow. After chatting a bit, we agreed to camp together a few miles down the road at Patrick’s Point. Ann’s suggestion was brilliant. The views were amazing. In spite of the damp and cold, we stayed up way later than normal, talking and trading stories.

Thursday, September 30. Travel day. Left the coast and headed inland through Redding and Sacramento on our way to South Lake Tahoe. Lots of evidence of the fires that ravaged this area as well as beautiful areas that deserve more exploration.

Friday, October 1. Twenty-nine degrees this morning. Summer, it seems, is well and truly over. Not to be deterred, we donned our down and set off down (or in this case – UP) the road to an overlook high above Lake Tahoe. The lake lives up to the hype. As much as we enjoyed the overlook, and the climb to get there (not), the boats seemed like the better option for enjoying Tahoe. We chose…wisely. An added bonus of biking and a few hours on the water was a healthy appetite. We continued our Great Western Pub Crawl with a visit to the Lake Tahoe Aleworx. Excellent pizza and pints.

Saturday, October 2. Forty some years ago when I left Prudhoe Bay, I never imagined some day I would return to the Slope. During that original summer I met the most amazing person I’d ever encountered. Suzanne embraced life and adventure like no one I had ever met. I was inspired by her generosity and openness to life. For a few years after that summer, we kept in touch. She and her partner (and eventual husband John) would send the occasional postcard from Fiji, or Skagway, or some other far flung location. As happens though, we eventually lost touch.

On Saturday, we had a happy reunion at Suzanne and John’s home thirty minutes from Lake Tahoe. Not surprisingly, they had spent a lifetime working and traveling the world. It was such a joy sharing stories and finding that time has not diminished their adventurous spirit in the least.

We ended the day in Reno. Tomorrow Sharon will be leaving to spend ten days with her folks. For the past six months, we have been together 24/7. It will be a bit odd wandering around northern Nevada on my own. Not sure yet what I’ll do…the no plan plan is firmly in place. I look forward to finding out along with all of you where this road leads. Until next week…STC!

Dear Gravity…

On February 22, 2020February 22, 2020 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Endurance Stuff, Mountain StuffLeave a comment

…We need to talk. I’ve been attracted to you for as long as I can remember, but I’ve started to feel that what we have together is unhealthy. So often it seems that I’m doing all the work in our relationship. I feel you judging me for the extra pounds around my middle. Half the time we don’t even talk – you hardly let me get a word out. Then I start to think that the problems are my fault. You know the old cliche, “Its not you…its me.” Maybe you’re right. Maybe if I dropped a few pounds, passed on that extra beer or cup of ice cream we would get along better. But in the end, it seems that no matter what changes I make, or commit to make – you’re constant – you never change. It is frustrating. At the worst of times, you are a cold, heartless shrew.

Most definitely *NOT* on speaking terms with gravity
Photo Credit: Joel Schenk

But then, I get to the top of some ridge or peak, and the pressure you’ve been putting on me lessens. It’s like a weight has been lifted from my shoulders, (and legs, and feet). I take the time to enjoy the view and the accomplishment, and just like that I’m ready to forgive you for all the suffering you put me through. As I head down a trail and fall back into your warm embrace, and enjoy the wind on my face, I remember why I love you. Time flies when you’re having fun, and as I fly down on my bike or skis, or lightly run down a trail – I’m having FUN! I find my voice again. I sing, and laugh and shout for joy. We’re an awesome couple! We make a perfect team! You’re my best friend. The thing is – this hate/love cycle just doesn’t seem healthy. I realize that any good relationship requires hard work. And I really do appreciate all you’ve done for me. We’ve had some great times over the years. But just once in a while – I wish you’d lighten up and give me a break! That doesn’t seem like that much to ask. Its not like there’s a law against that, is there?

I think we have something special, I just needed to get some things off my chest. I’m willing to keep working at our relationship. I hope you’ll continue to be there for me.

XOXOXOX – Dave

Diapers and Depends through the Years

On November 25, 2019November 25, 2019 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Endurance Stuff, Mountain Stuff, Water StuffLeave a comment

Sharon was recently going through some old photos and came across this one from February 2012. We’d all just climbed up the insanely steep “trail” out of South Canyon – and most important – were all still smiling. This little trip was the first time I’d met Rob, Cailie or Andrew. it was also the very first Diapers and Depends Expedition.

I’ve described this before, but during the trip we very quickly started with some good natured trash talking – e.g. the youngsters among us were “barely out of diapers”. We were so old we needed Depends! And so it went. Thus was born “Diapers and Depends Expeditions”. Since then, plus or minus a few others, the Diapers and Depends gang has reeled off an impressive list of accomplishments. As often happens, seeing this early photo made me a bit nostalgic and prompted this pictorial walk down memory lane celebrating the last eight years.

2012-2013

2013 - Superstition Mountains...Battleship — 2013 – Superstition Mountains…Battleship

2013 - Grand Canyon Battleship — 2013 – Grand Canyon Battleship

2013 - Grand Canyon Escalante Route — 2013 – Grand Canyon Escalante Route

2013 - Camp Crevasse training — 2013 – Camp Crevasse training

2013 - Mt Rainier...Emmons Glacier — 2013 – Mt Rainier…Emmons Glacier

2014-2015

2014 - Mt Humphreys Winter Climb — 2014 – Mt Humphreys Winter Climb

2015 - Colorado River Paddle — 2015 – Colorado River Paddle

2014 - New Hance Hike — 2014 – New Hance Hike

2015 - Jacks Canyon — 2015 – Jacks Canyon

2014 - Phantom Creek — 2014 – Phantom Creek

2016 – 2019

2016 - Tanner Trail — 2016 – Tanner Trail

2016 - John Muir Trail — 2016 – John Muir Trail

2016 - Hangover Hike — 2016 – Hangover Hike

2019 - John Muir Trail — 2019 – John Muir Trail

I can’t begin to describe what joy and enjoyment these folks and these trips have brought to our lives over the past eight years. And this extensive list isn’t nearly complete. It does not include all the conversations, emails, texts, phone calls, Flagstaff beer runs, picnics, dinners, birthday parties and just general time spent together with the Diapers and Depends group. It doesn’t include all the fantastic times we’ve spent with our grown children and extended family. It doesn’t include our large circle of friends here in Flagstaff. So, in this Thanksgiving week – it seems appropriate to be thankful not only for the opportunities we’ve had to explore so much of our world, but especially for all the wonderful people who are part of our lives.

Happy Thanksgiving All!

Grand Canyon Exploration

On November 5, 2019November 5, 2019 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff2 Comments

Tapeats – Deer Creek Loop

In 2010 our family celebrated some major life events – a high school graduation, a major anniversary, a milestone birthday. We celebrated in true Flagstaff fashion with a river trip through the Grand Canyon. Because of their unique nature and amazing beauty, most trips take time to stop at Thunder River/Tapeats Creek and Deer Creek. Several years later we managed to snag a back country permit to hike down to those same iconic locations via the north rim. Alas, it was not to be. In a gross miscarriage of justice, we were denied the use of our permit when a government shutdown “closed” the Grand Canyon. Social justice warriors that we are, we set out to right the wrongs of gov’t shutdowns past.

So, years later we again managed to obtain a coveted back country permit and prepped for our return to the Canyon. Our plan had been for a group of six to make the journey. Instead, work, busy schedules and injury whittled that number down to just two – Dan and I. Quality over quantity I like to say. On a Friday afternoon in late October Dan and I arrived at a lovely little spot along the north rim to spend a relaxing evening before hitting the trail.

Next morning we headed down the Bill Hall trail under blue bird skies and perfect temperatures. While steep in places, this trail offers a relatively easy descent to the esplanade and points beyond.

Dan contemplating the beauty…and over 5,000′ of descent

I’d read about it, but the esplanade is an amazing place. Relatively flat, it offers a welcome respite from down climbing. Plus the scenery along this stretch is nothing short of spectacular…slickrock, dramatic formations, canyons…the esplanade has it all.

Beyond the esplanade we dropped into Surprise valley, eventually making our way past Thunder River to our camp at Upper Tapeats.

We slept under the stars every night…except for a brief hail storm on night two when we put up the tarp.
Sunset from Tapeats creek.

After a long first day, we had scheduled a rare rest day at upper Tapeats. We’d toyed with the idea of doing some exploring, but ended up simply spending the day next to the creek. We chatted with each other and folks from a few different river trips. I made good progress on my current read, and then…just stared at the scenery. We did discover one small down side of being deep in the Canyon this time of year. The sun dropped behind the Canyon walls at about 3:00 pm. By 3:05 pm we busted out our puffies. By 6:30 pm with no moon it was completely dark. I read. We talked. We enjoyed the night sky and watched for shooting stars, but ultimately the combination of dark and cold made for some long -ish nights.

Day three was a leisurely stroll down to the River. Thanks to generous river folk, we were able to enjoy a malted beverage with dinner. Day four we picked our way along the route downriver to Deer Creek. The Patio and Deer Creek Narrows were as stunning as I remembered. Dan was appropriately impressed. We arrived early enough to have plenty of time for more rest and relaxation. Other than the big day down (and obviously what comes down must go up) we had more free time on this trip than any I can remember…maybe ever. Maybe its true that with age comes wisdom…or maybe not…I forget.

Yay for generous river trip people!!
The only way to fly – sleeping under the stars
Deer Creek narrows.

While our permit allowed us another rest day at Deer Creek before our hike out, the long nights and a below freezing cold snap convinced us to hike out a day early. Temps in the low 30’s and blue bird skies made for a perfect day to regain the 5,200′ back to the north rim. We topped off our excellent adventure with the appropriate post hike beer and burger at the Cave Dweller lodge where a sign informed us “There are no caves at Cave Dwellers. No ferry at Lee’s Ferry and no lake at Jacob Lake – sorry for the confusion!” Many thanks to Dan for making the long trek out from MN to share some time in a lovely corner of the Canyon.

As always – if you have any questions about this – or any other trip. Leave a note in the comments section. You can always sign up below to receive email notifications whenever there is a new post. Seize the Carp!

JMT Through Hike #4 – Gear

On September 11, 2019November 9, 2019 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Gear StuffLeave a comment

“How much does your pack weigh?”
“Base weight is twelve pounds!”
“Dude – that’s way too heavy. Mine is only eight! It’s easy to get down to that weight once you realize that comfort is just a state of mind!”
–Overheard in the backpackers camp at Tuolumne Meadow

While the commitment to lightweight packing is laudable, I took exception to this person’s condescending “I’m better than you” attitude. I also call BS on the assertion that comfort is a state of mind. I’ve spent a lifetime finding creative ways to be uncomfortable in just about every conceivable outdoor situation – and I would suggest that discomfort has nothing to do with my “state of mind.” As proof I offer the following: https://www.seizingthecarp.com/lake-superior-learning-curve/ . It has everything to do with bringing along the wrong gear, forgetting gear (like a tent – yes, it is possible), miscalculating time and distance, bad luck, bad weather, etc.

Now if you’ll wait a moment while I climb down off my self-righteous soap box, I will agree in principle with Mr Ego Head above. I have long ascribed to the scientifically proven “Inverse Weight to Fun Ratio” beautifully illustrated in the graph below.

Happy Camper on the left vs Not a Happy Camper on the right

Conversations about gear are a regular feature along the trail. What’s working? What’s not? What people like/dislike about a particular piece of gear. What people wish they had, or wish they’d left behind. So for your reading pleasure, I humbly submit a few thoughts on the subject of gear in general, and some specific comments on gear we used.

When I did a portion of the JMT a few years ago, I brought a tarp tent that got used once in nine nights out. The rest of the time I slept under the stars. It was glorious. The bug situation made that impractical, so we brought our Black Diamond Beta light and Bug Net tent. Total weight 3 -ish pounds. Not the lightest thing out there, but a third the cost of ZPack shelters and far more durable than some of the ultra, ultra light tents made out of unicorn hair, baby seal tears, and fairy dust. Properly guyed out it easily withstood some gusty conditions. At 6′ 2″, I can fully stretch out and have room to spare at the ends – a bit of a luxury in a lightweight shelter. It is easy to pitch – stake out four corners and insert hiking poles. Initially we thought they’d be a bit of a bother inside the tent, but it turned out to be a non-issue. In fact it actually helped keep Sharon on her side of the tent. You can read an excellent review here: https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/camping-and-hiking/ultralight-tent/black-diamond-beta-light We liked it so much that I’m going to re-purpose some tent poles to replace the hiking poles in order to use it on an upcoming bike tour.

Our one big experimental upgrade came with the purchase of down quilts. We both got the 10 degree Revelation model from Enlightened Equipment. I saved quite a bit by ordering a previous year’s model, however Sharon’s newer model had significantly higher loft. (https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/camping-and-hiking/ultralight-sleeping-bag/enlightened-equipment-revelation-20 ) Even on a few frosty, below freezing nights, Sharon was comfy in just T-Shirt and knickers. I’m a cold sleeper, and was comfortable, although many nights I did wear my down jacket. We liked the flexibility of sleeping arrangements with the quilt as well as the weight and space savings compared to our regular backpacking bags. I’m not completely sold on the whole quilt concept, but I can definitely recommend the Revelation.

The last of the “big three” backpacking necessities is the backpack. Sharon hauled out her venerable Osprey Ariel 65. It would have been a bit larger than necessary, except for the need to carry ten days of food in a bear canister. Osprey packs are everywhere, well made and – when adjusted properly – solid, comfy packs. I used my Arrakis 50 from Arcteryx. The Arrakis has several unique features, and is extremely rare. That might explain why it is no longer being made. I love the fit and features, and especially the way it carries a load. Even to save a few pounds, I doubt I’ll ever go to a different pack. We were a bit intrigued by the lighter and smaller Osprey Exos we saw frequently along the way. We might explore that option for Sharon.

Beyond that, our gear lists was pretty straightforward.

Primus canister stove. In three weeks we used roughly 1 – 8oz, and 2 – 4 oz canisters.
Cookwear: Aluminum pot and folding silicone cups. Sharon used a silicone bowl, I did not.
Clothes (me)
Two running shorts, one pair medium weight tights.
One Short sleeve T (didn’t need).
One long sleeve cotton dress shirt. Two technical long sleeve T’s (only needed one long T)
Arcteryx Thorium AR down jacket with hood (loved it).
Beanie hat, sun hat, and gloves.
Bike gloves. I wore these all day, every single day to protect my hands from getting sunburned, and from blisters from using poles. For me, these would be a must bring.
Electronics: BD rechargeable headlamp. Garmin Mini GPS tracker and two way text. Suunto GPS watch. Fujifilm waterproof camera. Sharon’s IPhone was her camera. Solar charger and small battery pack kept all electronics fully charged.
We used a 4 L Platypus gravity flow water filter. Larger than the Sawyers that everyone was using. For a group of 4-5 like us, this was much easier and quicker. Also, on a previous trip two Sawyer filters both kind of crapped out on us. Kept it in a small stuff sack strapped to the outside of my pack. We stopped to filter regularly and thus saved the weight of carrying extra water.
Other: 8″ x 10″ scrap of closed cell foam for a sit/kneel pad (big thumbs up – super useful). Sharon brought an REI camp chair. Half way through I “inherited” Dan’s when he left. Nice, but I’d have been happy with just my sit pad. Trowel (for poo holes). Small roll of tenacious tape, needle and thread for repairs. Very small 1st aid kit…just blister stuff, antiseptic, antibiotic, and burn ointments. Bug head nets which we used once or twice.
Rain gear. I brought both a jacket and kilt of my own design. Sharon brought her kilt and an old Golite jacket. Amazingly, somehow, blue bird skies for 21 days. Sucked for California, but we did not complain.
Bear Canisters: A necessary EVIL required on the trail. I used the Garcia’s on the left. Sharon had the BV500. The Garcia’s was slightly smaller, and slightly heavier – but had a superior lid design. We were (just) able to cram in ten days of food.

After three weeks on the trail we felt we had packed well. We had everything we needed and very little we didn’t need. This was clearly a longer trip, but we’ve done this many, many times before. Having said that, we’re always looking to improve, and better ways of doing things. If we took out our “comfort” items and eliminated all electronics, I could have removed 3-4 lbs. Also, the way things worked out, we were a bit light on food at the outset, and then ended up with a bit too much at our 2nd resupply. Still, with ten days of food and water, I was at about 36 lbs, Sharon a few less. I’m sure my “dude” friend above would scoff at such weights, but we didn’t have to just pretend – we were truly comfortable throughout the entire trip.

Hopefully this was helpful. As always, if you have any questions, feel free to reach out and leave a comment below. I/we are always happy to help. Of course, you should always keep in mind rule #1 of hiking the JMT – “Don’t believe anything anyone tells you!” Happy Trails!

JMT Through Hike #3 – Pictures

On September 8, 2019September 8, 2019 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain Stuff6 Comments

“Life is too short to hike ugly places”
-Me…after listening to PCT thru hikers talk about all the dry, dusty, desolate and downright ugly sections they hiked through before arriving in the Sierra Nevada.

The John Muir Trail is hard. Getting from here to there always involves climbing up before climbing down…or climbing down followed by yet another climb up. For many, the high elevations cause significant problems. According to Ranger Rob at Crabtree Meadow, 90% of all evacuations are for altitude related problems. From the southern end, just getting to the start of the JMT requires either STD’s (screaming thighs of death) up from Whitney Portal or a roundabout twenty extra miles. From the northern end, one’s introduction to the JMT is 8,000 feet of climbing from the Yosemite Valley floor to the top of Donohue Pass. The John Muir Trail is hard…but oh, it is so worth it!! As an anonymous writer once penned, “All things excellent are as difficult as rare.” So true!

Almost every day, and often multiple times in a day, a hiker on the JMT is confronted by world class views. After the second day we put a one-per-day limit on the use of the word “Wow!” It really was that spectacular. So in this post, I’d like to let the Sierra Nevada speak for itself.

Under the Stars

We spent twenty-one days on the trail. We hiked every single day. With the exception of two nights spent at Tuolumne Meadow, we laid our heads to rest in a different location every night. You can spend hundreds of dollars a night to sleep in someone else’s bed in a luxury hotel and not come close to matching the luxurious beauty of our open air bedrooms. Here is a sample.

Wildflowers

“There is poety among the wildflowers”
– Rachel Irene Stevenson

Cause and effect. This was an exceptionally good snow year in the Sierra Nevada mountains. Heavy snow meant a late melt. A late melt meant a few extra mosquitoes along the trail. More of an annoyance than the apocalyptic swarms of biblical proportions that many warned of. Late snow also meant late wildflowers in glorious colors and quantities. Sharon took some extra time capturing their beauty.

Rocks and Water

At home I am often annoyed by long haul truckers who feel compelled to compensate for certain…shortcomings… by the overzealous use of engine brakes on a nearby highway. So it was with great joy that almost every night for three weeks I was lulled to sleep by the soothing sounds of creeks, cascades, rivers, rivulets, in other words, moving water of every description. Every day we were treated to boisterous waterfalls, gentle creeks, and everything in between. Every day we were treated to stunning alpine lakes filling broad valleys, or nestled in the intimate embrace of soaring granite peaks. Every day we were surrounded by “rocks” and “water”. Those familiar words are empty and meaningless until they’ve been filled with images and memories from the Sierra Nevada.

“Few places in this world are more dangerous than home. Fear not, therefore, to try the mountain-passes. They will kill care, save you from deadly apathy, set you free, and call forth every faculty into vigorous, enthusiastic action.”
-John Muir “The Wild Muir”

I second John’s sentiment above. Fear not to try the mountain passes. And not just on the John Muir trail. Some fear it is already being loved to death. There are countless lesser know, barely traveled trails all throughout the Sierra Nevada (and all over our country) that will yield similar view and experiences. The important thing is to educate yourself about “leave no trace” camping ethics, equip yourself with what little you need to be comfortable outside – and leave the rest of the gear home. Then get out the door – whether it is for one night or one month. Seize the Carp!

JMT Through Hike #2 – Friends and Fascinating People

On September 3, 2019September 3, 2019 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain StuffLeave a comment

I confess that when it comes to the wilderness I am basically pretty selfish. I want it all for myself. I don’t want to share. Perfection in backpacking has always been to never see another soul. The JMT is NOT that kind of a trip! This is a beautiful area and everyone from long distance through hikers to weekend warriors want a piece of it. I knew that going in. Turns out I was surprisingly OK sharing my wilderness with others. In fact, our favorite moments on the trail involved the friends we started with, and the fascinating people we met along the way. This post is a tribute to some of these amazing people.

“Friendship improves happiness, and abates misery, by doubling our joys, and dividing our grief.” -Marcus Tullius Cicero

At times it can be a challenge to organize a trip involving people with different work and family responsibilities, and from different corners of the country. As was proven once again on this trip – it is so worth it. We laughed with – and at – one another. We shared memories of many years and trips together. We had serious conversations about serious matters and deeply personal issues. We walked in comfortable silence, simply enjoying each other’s company. Thank you Sharon, Andrew, Cailie and Dan for just being who you are and making yet another trip special. Can’t wait for the next adventure…

The Diapers and Depends gang prepares to ride again. Phoenix, Diesel, Bobo, K2 and Mikhail

Photographic evidence that "Mikhail" (as in the ultimately graceful ballet star Mikhail Baryshnikov ) was actually with us on the trip. — Photographic evidence that “Mikhail” (as in the ultimately graceful ballet star Mikhail Baryshnikov ) was actually with us on the trip.

The Gnome Princess showing some attitude in her stylish KB Rain Kilt 3.0. Bad for California, but good for us - it did not rain once during out entire trip. — The Gnome Princess showing some attitude in her stylish KB Rain Kilt 3.0. Bad for California, but good for us – it did not rain once during out entire trip.

Hmmm. Not sure what Bobo is going for here. Makes me think of a certain Far Side cartoon. 'Nuf said. — Hmmm. Not sure what Bobo is going for here. Makes me think of a certain Far Side cartoon. ‘Nuf said.

K2 (i.e. Killian Jornet 2nd) was the only one brave enough to handle the chilly water. Strong work girl.

K2 peer pressuring me to take some personal hygiene steps...fine! — K2 peer pressuring me to take some personal hygiene steps…fine!

They're called bridges Dan! Dry feet? It's a thing... All the kids are doing it these days. — They’re called bridges Dan! Dry feet? It’s a thing… All the kids are doing it these days.

Sharon and Cailie sharing some trail love

Preparing to give our fallen comrade a full cheek salute. What's funny is we actually talked some random guy into taking the picture... — Preparing to give our fallen comrade a full cheek salute. What’s funny is we actually talked some random guy into taking the picture…

“You can make more friends in two months by becoming interested in other people than you can in two years by trying to get other people interested in you.” -Dale Carnegie

Most interactions with other hikers involved just a smile and brief pleasantries while passing on the trail. Occasionally though, we would stop long enough to find out a bit about the people sharing the trail with us. From time to time we would share info or observations, and compare notes and experiences. Here is a small sample of a few of the fascinating people out enjoying the JMT.

John and Mora from Chicago. Sharon helped Mora cross the snow coming down from Forrester Pass. John served two tours of duty in Iraq and currently works as a software engineer.

This Aussie couple just got married. Their friends suggested a beach honeymoon. "We live on the best beaches on the planet - we wanted something different." Made sense to us! — This Aussie couple just got married. Their friends suggested a beach honeymoon. “We live on the best beaches on the planet – we wanted something different.” Made sense to us!

British couple Rob and Nikki almost done with their southbound thru hike. Nikki said, "At this point I rather fancy anything not couscous or porridge." Later on we totally understood that feeling. — British couple Rob and Nikki almost done with their southbound thru hike. Nikki said, “At this point I rather fancy anything not couscous or porridge.” Later on we totally understood that feeling.

Our newest best friend Betsy. She and her Cincinnati hospital co-workers shared some extra food since we were running a bit light going into our resupply. Thanks Betsy - you're the best - well actually the PBJ tortilla was the best! — Our newest best friend Betsy. She and her Cincinnati hospital co-workers shared some extra food since we were running a bit light going into our resupply. Thanks Betsy – you’re the best – well actually the PBJ tortilla was the best!

Ian and daughter Emma. This was her first big hike and she was rocking it. Super sweet kid.

Southbound Sherry from Bremerton and friend Ericka have done some amazing big hikes. Would have been nice hearing more from her, except LA Ian never stopped talking...
For you G.O.T. fans, I think this may actually have been Brienne of Tarth in disguise? — Southbound Sherry from Bremerton and friend Ericka have done some amazing big hikes. Would have been nice hearing more from her, except LA Ian never stopped talking… For you G.O.T. fans, I think this may actually have been Brienne of Tarth in disguise?

Cecil and his merry band of wanderers were in over their depth and on his way up Muir pass was literally begging people to take excess food. Still a ways from resupply - we obliged. Thanks Cecil and Happy Trails. — Cecil and his merry band of wanderers were in over their depth and on his way up Muir pass was literally begging people to take excess food. Still a ways from resupply – we obliged. Thanks Cecil and Happy Trails.

Jaime at Muir Trail Ranch - queen of the resupply world. — Jaime at Muir Trail Ranch – queen of the resupply world.

"Flop" went to school in Prescott...about 90 minutes from where we live. Super pleasant young lady. We talked some serious life and career stuff in our brief conversation. — “Flop” went to school in Prescott…about 90 minutes from where we live. Super pleasant young lady. We talked some serious life and career stuff in our brief conversation.

Paul and Joe have been doing trips together since high school. Joe actually had some pretty sweet gear that probably dated back to that time. Both commented on the noticeable impact of Cheryl Strayed's book "Wild" on the JMT crowds. — Paul and Joe have been doing trips together since high school. Joe actually had some pretty sweet gear that probably dated back to that time. Both commented on the noticeable impact of Cheryl Strayed’s book “Wild” on the JMT crowds.

Southbound Paul and Roz from the Bay area.

Carol early on day two of her southbound JMT through hike. It was fun to see her enthusiasm and excitement. That was us just three weeks earlier.

The appreciation of this wild place, the enthusiasm and the joy so often expressed by others was infectious. Rather than detract from the experience on the trail, these brief encounters were uplifting and stimulating. Our passing conversations often led to longer discussions as Sharon and I continued on down (or up) the trail. All the meet ups above took place with southbound folks as we passed. From time to time though, circumstances brought us together with fellow northbound travelers. Several of these chance encounters led to some deeper connections.

We first met Kirk and Brittney on our way to resupply at Muir Trail Ranch (MTR). At first we leapfrogged along the trail, then we hiked together for a bit, then chatted even more as we sorted and swapped food from our resupply boxes. As happens, we ended up hiking and camping together several more times. Kirk has been on some amazing trips out back of beyond. Definitely a kindred spirit. Brittney is a veterinarian with some fascinating insights into the challenges faced by folks in this profession…and just life in general. She is incredibly insightful and eloquent – you should definitely check out her blog here. https://dvmexplorer.com/blog/ . Fortunately we met up one last time in Tuolomne Meadows just as we were leaving for home.

We first saw Vangie and Jane at Vermilion Valley Resort as a group of JMT hikers were inhaling embarrassingly large breakfasts. Up the trail we leapfrogged and chatted a bit, then ended up camping together. These ladies were crushing it. Jane especially was knowledgeable about Yosemite and offered some helpful (and for once) accurate information about hiking in Yosemite. Vangie is planning a trip to Nepal later this fall, so we had fun sharing our experiences.

Ondrej & Helena – proudly representing the Czech Republic

What can I say about Ondrej and Helena? We first met camping at Garnet Lake, and then spent the next several days enjoying the privilege of getting to know this wonderful pair. We learned about the Czech Republic. As always, it was fascinating to see our country through fresh eyes. “People here are sooo friendly!” And thanks to their patient tutelage, I am now practically fluent in Czech. “Ahoy” is “hello” – although I think they may have just been messing with me. And “It is beautiful” – To je krásný. Just seeing their smiles and zest for life every day made the world seem a better place.

Our last night in the backcountry we spent hours along this beautiful river with Helena, Ondrej and the Texas Twins. Perfect.

VVR dinner gang. From left, Mylan, Tigger, Kirk, Brittney, Dave, Freight Train, and Taper & Bernard.

At the beginning of the evening, four separate groups were complete strangers. Several hours (and beers) later, we were sharing food and intimate details about our lives. Such is life on the trail. Mylan is in the merchant marine and somehow needed to get to the other side of the Sierra mountains in an impossible time frame. He said it was for work – but there may have been a girl involved. His friend Ethan across the table ate so much food that he earned his trail name “Taper” (for tapeworm). His tapeworm earned the trail name “Bernard”. Tigger and Freight Train met on the PCT. They had intended to through hike and had done a significant portion, until injury and life got in the way. They had rejoined for this middle portion. Even though three months earlier they hadn’t known each other, now they were like a married couple finishing each other’s stories and sentences. It was a magical evening.

Rachel was an interesting find. Tuolumne Meadow has a ‘backpacker’ portion of the campground where JMT through hikers and backpackers can spend a night as they pass through. Rachel was not hiking. She was on a solo bike tour and had camped nearby. Somehow she and Sharon got chatting and before long, she was joining us as we ferried our car down to Yosemite Valley in preparation for the last portion of our hike. The hour and a half drive wasn’t nearly long enough to even begin to learn about all the things that made this young lady amazing. Follow her on Instagram (RachelsontheRoad) to find out for yourself. She well and truly seizes the carp every single day.

Tim Cahill, adventurer and writer once said, “A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.” I couldn’t agree more. When I think of our experience on the JMT, I will certainly remember the achingly beautiful mountains, lakes and streams. No doubt it will be those images that will make you want to venture out to see those places yourself. But when I think back to our experience on the JMT, the images that will come to mind first will be the smiles and laughter of the beautiful people we met along the way.

JMT Thru Hike #1 – Overview

On September 1, 2019September 1, 2019 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain StuffLeave a comment

Lots of discussion about which direction was better. The only two directions that really matter on the JMT are “up” and “down”!

At 5:45 on a Wednesday in August we walked into Yosemite Valley, twenty-one days after setting out from the Whitney Portal trail head…and just like that it was over. The thing we had been dreaming about, and planning, and preparing for so long was suddenly a memory. In one sense it is very easy to quantify the accomplishment. We had walked a total of 234-ish miles in 21 days and climbed 42,240 vertical feet along the way…but those are just numbers. Numbers don’t begin to capture the feeling of topping out on a high pass after climbing uphill for miles, or the sight of a snow capped granite peak perfectly reflected in an alpine lake, or the magic of the evening light on that same mountain at sunset, or the power of a roaring waterfall or the soothing sound of a gentle riffle on that same creek. The statistics of a through hike have nothing to do with the joys of walking through wilderness and talking with old friends, or the simple pleasures of making new friends along the way. A hike on the John Muir Trail is very much more than the sum of all these parts.

Three years prior to this trip, I had the privilege of hiking a portion of the JMT with Dan, Phil, Steve and Michelle. ( https://www.seizingthecarp.com/jmt-august-2016/ ) Because of knee problems, Sharon was unable to participate on that trip. Having seen and heard about our experiences however, she suggested that now with the time to do so, we should through hike the entire trail. She didn’t have to convince me, and we reached out to our usual group of willing accomplices. Eventually the field of the willing was whittled down to those actually able to take the time. Dan Boss, Cailie the Gnome Princess and Andrew O all signed on to accompany us almost half way to an exit point over Bishop Pass. Sharon and I would complete the journey on our own. That was the plan. Reality of course had plans of her own.

The first day was tough. Lots of uphill with ten days of food crammed in our packs.
High camp at 12,000′
We woke on day two to hysterical laughter while these two attempted to open Cailie’s bear canister. It was so full, it wouldn’t open.
Dan being helpful as always. “We should go up there!”
Whitney Pass and thankfully some “down” after all the “up”

On day two as we descended from Whitney pass, Andrew badly sprained his ankle near Guitar Lake. After an initial assessment and some treatment, we decided the best option was to make our way down to Crabtree Meadow and the ranger station there. By the next morning, it was clear Andrew was not going anywhere under his own power. His multi-colored, softball size ankle and the near certainty that he had broken a bone during his fall led Ranger Rob to order a helicopter evacuation. Thirty minutes later Andrew was whisked away, and we were left to mourn the departure of our friend. For someone who works as hard as he does, and has so little free time, it was incredibly sad to see him deprived of the rest of the trip. Having said that, it could easily have been much worse and we were very thankful for all the help in getting Andrew safely home (and to surgery several days later).

“Physician heal thyself.” First attempt at treatment at Guitar Lake
Andrew convalescing in Crabtree Meadow prior to evac. Rest, ice and elevate. Doing all the right stuff
Apparently only one in ten evacs are for ortho injuries. Most are for altitude related problems. Way to be special Andrew

With the evac done, we packed up and continued our journey northward. As I’ve noted before, the four remaining members of the Diapers and Depends team have shared many adventures and are all very experienced backpackers. We very quickly settled into an easy rhythm of life on the trail. Every day brought unbelievable world class views, challenging trails, stimulating conversation, and enjoyable camp life at the end of the day. All too quickly it was time for Dan and Cailie to jump off the trail and head out over Bishop Pass. The fact that we so enjoyed their company made it that much more difficult to say good-bye.

K2 and Bobo ready to head out over Bishop Pass.

Having said good-bye, Sharon and I fell right back into our own familiar routines…we’ve been doing this sort of thing for the past 34 years after all. One difference we did notice hiking as a couple, is that we started meeting and interacting more with other hikers along the trail. We met and spent time with some truly amazing people along the way (more on that in another post.) Unless you’ve done it, it is hard to get your mind around hiking 200+ miles or camping in the mountains for three weeks (without a shower I might add). Very quickly it becomes routine, and then suddenly the end looms. For me, walking into the campground at Tuolumne Meadow was the emotional end of the trip for me. We had decided that we would drop packs and hike the last bit from Tuolumne to Yosemite Valley as a day hike. Even though we took a detour to the top of Cloud’s Rest and enjoyed stunning views from far above Yosemite Valley – the last day seemed very much like an afterthought. We were really just connecting the dots to say we’d completed the hike.

Clouds Rest was a worthwhile side trip off the JMT on our last day
Pretty amazing view into Yosemite Valley.
JMT Rule #1 – Don’t believe anything anyone tells you! The official distance of the JMT is 211 miles. Note the distance listed to Mt Whitney…

So now we’re home. We’ve enjoyed several showers, washed clothes, cleaned and put away gear. We’ve reconnected with many of our friends here in Flagstaff and have tried to convey some sense of what it was like on the trail. We’re left to ponder what – if any – impact our time on the JMT has had. I’ll write more in depth, but here’s a quick first swipe at it.

We are fortunate beyond belief to have the time and the health to complete a lengthy and challenging trip like this.
We are fortunate beyond belief to have vast expanses of natural beauty like this in our country
Sharon and I had very different trips. I felt good and truly didn’t have a bad day. Sharon fought through an early illness and other health issues along the way. As Cailie said, knowing you have the mental resilience and physical toughness to fight through issues like that is something you can put in the bank during other difficult days.
I love nature and especially being in true wilderness settings without people. Having said that, having Andrew, Cailie and Dan along, and all the new friends we made along the trail really made this trip special.

There is much more I’d like to share about this trip. I’d like to talk specifically about some of the folks we met. I’ll speak a bit about some of the gear we used – what worked and what didn’t. I have no desire to give a step by step description of the trail or point out specific special places…there’s too much of that on the internet already. I would like to just share some of the beautiful images you might expect to see if you decide to wander this trail yourself…or at the very least, give you a small sense of what draws us to places like this. I will share some of the lessons we learned on a long trip (still possible to learn something new after all these years). So if you haven’t already done so, scroll down and sign up for email updates. And if you have any specific questions, please feel free to reach out. Sharon and I will be happy to offer any help we can. Until next time – Happy Trails and Seize the Carp!

Gear Report: KB Rain Kilt 3.0

On July 4, 2019January 29, 2021 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Gear StuffLeave a comment

Of all the trips we’ve taken, and of all the adventures I’ve written about, the most visited page here is the one describing the rain kilt. (Kilt 2.0 ) If you’ve read that article, then you know I’m a big fan of the rain kilt. Since the first version was field tested back in July of 2016, and a major revision shortly after that first trip, I’ve used the kilt exclusively in all my travels.

Use any piece of gear and before long you see room for improvement. That has definitely been the case with the kilt…there has been a constant evolution. The beta version proved the concept in some truly nasty conditions. However, it turned out to be too square and didn’t overlap enough. Version 2.0 was an improvement, but consisted of two pieces which required extra time and effort to sew. And even though it only weighed 8 oz, I was interested in using some lighter weight materials as well as tweaking the design a bit more.

Version 1.0 … note the almost square shape.

Slightly more colorful and slightly more flared version 2.0

Before retirement, one of my co-workers happened to be a professional seamstress. We had several interesting conversations about design possibilities, and with her help, I came up with a new design that not only fits better, but is easier and quicker to sew.

An early version of 3.0 One piece and even more flare.

For this version I used 1.1 oz Silnylon. Final weight…1.95 oz!

Feeling very manly in my rain kilt (its not a skirt!)

I’ve now made three kilts using the new design, and with each one I’ve made some small, but significant changes. In a few weeks, I am excited to be joining four of KB’s “sponsored” athletes. We will be field testing the latest and greatest to come out of the KB Skunkworks on the John Muir trail in California. Based on the feed back I receive, I will incorporate any final design changes into the pattern. If anyone is interested, I’m happy to share information on making our own. Seize the Carp!

Continue reading →

Nepal 2012 – The Pictures

On February 19, 2019March 7, 2019 By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain StuffLeave a comment

It’s been said that you can’t live in the past. I politely disagree. A long time ago someone told me “You are who you are because of where you were then.” It was a clever way of saying that we are products of the people we’ve met, the places we’ve been, and our experiences. Even though it is now in the past, the friendships we developed, the people we met, the things we saw and experienced had a lasting impact on us. Nepal changed us. That part of our past lives on in the present.

In the previous posts, I’ve tried to provide some insights into what made Nepal special. Hopefully, a few favorite photos will engender a sense of awe and wonder for this part of our world. This first gallery contains pictures taken near the end of our trip during our climb of Imja Tse. Located in the shadow of Everest’s neighbor Lhotse, the views from on top left me speechless.

Ama Dablam at dawn.

Photo Credit: Joel Schenk — Ama Dablam at dawn. Photo Credit: Joel Schenk

Glacier trail on Island Peak

Photo Credit: Joel Schenk — Glacier trail on Island Peak Photo Credit: Joel Schenk

Lapka Sherpa minding the fixed ropes.

Photo Credit: Joel Schenk — Lapka Sherpa minding the fixed ropes. Photo Credit: Joel Schenk

The people, the villages, the temples, stupas, mani walls, prayer flags all offered a visual feast. Ultimately though, as lovers of high places, we had come for the mountains – and they most certainly did not disappoint.

Sunrise over Nuptse from Kala Patthar with Everest on the left. Unbelievably dramatic.

Photo Credit: Andrew Overheiser. — Sunrise over Nuptse from Kala Patthar with Everest on the left. Unbelievably dramatic. Photo Credit: Andrew Overheiser.

Renjo Pass across Gokyo Lake

Photo Credit: Andrew Overheiser — Renjo Pass across Gokyo Lake Photo Credit: Andrew Overheiser

Goyko and Everest from Renjo Pass

Photo Credit: Andrew Overheiser — Goyko and Everest from Renjo Pass Photo Credit: Andrew Overheiser

Moon over Cholatse

Photo Credit: Sharon Moore — Moon over Cholatse Photo Credit: Sharon Moore

Himalayan dusk.

Photo Credit: Sharon Moore — Himalayan dusk. Photo Credit: Sharon Moore

Ama Dablam.
Ama Dablam means "Mother's necklace"; the long ridges on each side are seen as the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier is thought of as the dablam, the traditional double-pendant worn by Sherpa women. — Ama Dablam. Ama Dablam means “Mother’s necklace”; the long ridges on each side are seen as the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier is thought of as the dablam, the traditional double-pendant worn by Sherpa women.

Feel free reach out with any questions you might have about visiting Nepal. I/we would love to share any insights or info we have.

Seizing the Carp!

Category: Backpacking/Hiking Stuff

Italy 2026 – A Human Powered Bella Vita #3

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Italy 2026 – A Human Powered Bella Vita.

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Still on the Road #26

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Still on the Road #25

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Still on the Road #24

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Dear Gravity…

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Diapers and Depends through the Years

2012-2013

2014-2015

2016 – 2019

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Grand Canyon Exploration

Tapeats – Deer Creek Loop

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JMT Through Hike #4 – Gear

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JMT Through Hike #3 – Pictures

Under the Stars

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JMT Thru Hike #1 – Overview

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Gear Report: KB Rain Kilt 3.0

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Nepal 2012 – The Pictures

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2012-2013

2014-2015

2016 – 2019

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Tapeats – Deer Creek Loop

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Under the Stars

Wildflowers

Rocks and Water

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