Category: Mountain Stuff

Italy 2026 – A Human Powered Bella Vita #3

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain Stuff, On the RoadLeave a comment

August 30 – September 5, 2026

Day 14: Sunday, August 30… Work smarter not harder. I heard that somewhere. We smartly booked a night in the Hotel Costabella in San Pelligrino. Luxury! It was so nice it was almost embarassing. It even had a spa and hot tub. Since it was apparently “clothing not allowed”, we passed.  All but one rifugio/hotel for this trip is “half-board”, which means dinner and breakfast are included in the (eye watering) price of the room. Costabella was on a different level. We reveled in flavors heretofore unexplored. The quantity and quality of both dinner and breakfast left us well fueled for a big day.

We also smartly jumped on a gondola to save 1,000 feet of climbing. It made sense given that our goal for the day was Rifugio Mulaz, one of the more remote places along the AV2. Early on we wandered through alpine meadows. By afternoon we left vegetation behind and entered a world of rock and scree. Every ridge we topped revealed another higher still. Words cannot express our joy at reaching our goal. Hard to imagine a more stunning setting. 

Let’s play “Spot the Rifugio
View from Mulaz

We were assigned tables for dinner and breakfast. We met Missy, a nurse from Eagle, Colorado. Naturally, half way around the world in one of the most remote huts in the Dolomites, we find we have a mutual friend. Missy works with a very good friend of our son and daughter-in-law, and ours as well.  Small world indeed. Missy and her friend Robin, a Seattle couple, a British couple, Sharon and I had lively conversation that lasted long after our palty dinner. Side note: from all the Colorado people (12+ so far) out here, is anyone left in CO?

Dinner

Also hard to imagine a less comfortable setting. We were assigned bunks in what became known as the “sardine room”. All eleven bunks were physically touching, which meant I slept closer to a stranger than I normally do with Sharon in our queen bed. The symphony of snores was spectacular. We had the “grumpy grizzley bear growl” snore. The steady “auto rumble strip” snore. Across the room someone added a higher pitched “revving crotch rocket motorcycle” snore. And according to my lovely bride, I added to the harmony with my heavy breathing.

Close quarters

Day 15: Monday, August 31… 

Mulaz Sunrise

In our home mountains, we generally cover a mile uphill in 20-30 minutes, maybe 45 if it is  really steep. Our first mile today took us two hours of blood, sweat and tears – literally. Straight up, straight down then a traverse to a hell-spawned scree and boulder slope. This led to a via ferrata section on both sides of a pass extreme enough to bring Sharon to tears. That was the first mile. 

1st climb – you see the obvious route, yes?
Traverse to the 2nd climb
Happy to be done with that stretch

It became less death defying as the day wore on, but no less difficult. Most people we talked to were stopping after four and a half miles at Rifugio Rosetta (smart move). We stopped there long enough to refuel and wait out a passing rain storm. It was a welcome sight several hours later when we finally laid eyes on Rifugio Pradidali, our home for the evening. By every measure it was an improvement.

Rifugio Pradidali – Hallelujah!

Pradidali was a big step up in comfort. We got settled and spent the hours before dinner  enjoying somr drinks, the views and playing cards. Tonight at our assigned table we had  two Italian climbers, a young American couple from near Denver (of course), and an Indian couple now living in Munich. Such a diverse mix of people once again made for lively banter. 

Above Pradidali

The recent landscape has been beyond stunning. It is everything we were led to believe about the Dolomites.While we don’t mind working hard, the extreme difficulty has been a bit more than expected. We are both looking forward to a lighter effort day two days hence.

Day 16: Tuesday, SEPTEMBER 1… The route description from yesterday’s heinous section said this, “This remote and remarkable route is a delight!”. Hmmmm. The same guide describes the AV2 climb and descent beyond Pradidali as a “steep, rocky trail with some cables to assist in the more exposed areas.” That is followed by a 4,000′ “kneebreaker” descent that is “quite challenging with loose, moving scree“, and “some hands-on sections along the steep rocky track.” Doesn’t that sound special!

Might there be options? Without wifi or cell service to aid us, we went old school. On an old paper map from the rifugio we found an alternate path to the valley floor that skipped all the silliness. It was better than imagined. We still had a huge drop, but relatively easy by Dolomite standards. Lower down we strolled through forests and along streams. We traversed beautiful meadows. At one point we met the Denver couple from the previous evening. These young, capable climbers said the standard route was, “really technical and pretty sketchy!” Yeah us! We “chose wisely!”

Our day wasn’t over though. We still had to climb over the Forcella d’Oltro to get to the next valley. At times it was more like low-grade rock climbing than hiking.

Along this stretch of AV2, rifugio Cereda is the normal place to stay. We’d been unable to book a room and thus we’re forced to traverse some distance in the wrong direction along a barely beaten path.

Path to rifugio Cavallera

Malga (mountain hut) Cavallera was worth the extra distance. It was modern, spacious, friendly – and eerily empty. We were the only trekkers in the dorm room! It was puzzling! But after the last few nights, we weren’t complaining. It was a glorious night of luxury.

Aaaaaah! Luxury!

Day 17: Wednesday, Sept. 2… With several hard days behind and a challenging trail ahead, this had been planned as a light day. We made the most of it. We strolled through the forest along a path recommended by our host. Three miles and a thousand some feet down we arrived at the tiny town of Mis. After a quick snack from a local shop, we allowed the bus to whisk us to the top of the pass and rifugio Cereda.

We came over that…?
View from the Cavallera bunk room.
Fun fungus

Day 18: Thursday, Sept 3…

As often happens on a through hike like this, we’ve fallen in with a group moving in the same direction and staying at the same rifugios. Anxiety levels were high at rifugio Cereda. We all faced a climb of 2,600 feet in a mile and a half. If you haven’t been in the mountains there is no way to describe how steep that is.

Turns out it was insanely steep, but not quite as bad as we all imagined. This ended up being our biggest elevation day of the trip. But that was not what made the day memorable. Our little United Nations tribe leapfrogged each other throughout the day. Everyone was cheery and encouraging. The scenery, as always, was Dolomite stunning.  The setting of rifugio Boz was postcard perfect. After an ok dinner, almost everyone moved outside to chat and watch the colors fade behind the peaks. By all accounts, it was a very good day.

Smiles all around at the top of the big climb

Day 19: Friday, Sept 4… One last big day on the trail. Many in our group are hiking the nine challenging miles from Boz to rifugio Dal Piaz. Several others are continuing another three miles to the small village of Croce d’Aune to catch a bus into Feltre. We are in the first group.

The mountains today had a very different feel. There was the usual dose of straight up, and jagged peaks. For most of the day though, we were immersed in the color green. Meadows and even the peaks were cloaked in a mantle of greenery. In spite of the hard work, we arrived early at Dal Piaz and shared some final beers with those who were contingent one. Definitely a bittersweet day.

Early a.m. Rifugio Boz
Bit of exposure
From whence we came…
Rifugio Dal Piaz

It was a perfect last evening. Members of our tribe arrived through the afternoon and gathered for happy hour on the “patio” of Dal Piaz. I moved inside and chatted with Frank. He was the older half (74) of the pair of Irish mountain goats who were racing around the Dolomites like it was a stroll in the park. At dinner we sat and chatted with our Austrian mother/daughter and young Dutch/German couple. Fascinating people all. BTW – the mushroom and speck lasagna was to die for! The second course was beautifully prepared beef and potatoes. Dessert was apple kuchen with vanilla creme. Well played Dal Piaz!

Day 20: Saturday, Sept 5… The small town of Croce d’Aune looked like a tiny scale model village 3,000+ feet below. At this point in our hike, it required no special effort to make the descent. We did enjoy the whimsical wooden sculptures scattered along the trail. We arrived in time to enjoy one of many “final” gatherings of the tribe before the bus to Feltre arrived.

Good-bye Dal Piaz
Good-bye Dolomites
Elodie,  Heidi, Ian, Harry
Austria, Netherlands, Germany, UK, U.S., Aussie. What a great, fun , wonderful group.

Final thoughts: The Dolomites delivered! We wanted beautiful mountains – check! We wanted a challenging hike – CHECK!! We hoped to meet interesting, like minded individuals – definitely check! We looked forward to the huts and the luxury of not hauling camping gear and food – ummm, sort of check? I think we envisioned a somewhat more leisurely stroll with time to enjoy a beer and lunch at a rifugios along the way. In reality the trail was so hard we typically did not have the time or mental bandwidth to dawdle. And it was often cool/windy/cloudy enough that a lengthy stop for lunch wasn’t especially appealing. The huts and hotels ranged from “OMG can you believe how nice this is?” to “adequate” but always in amazing locations.

The big question is always – would we do it again? The qualified answer is probably yes. But now with one hut to hut under our belt, I think we would be more discerning. We would aim for beauty as always, but also something a bit more … relaxed. But that’s for another day. Now we have biking plans to make and a whole country to explore. Until next week Seize the Carp!!

Italy 2026 – A Human Powered Bella Vita #2

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain Stuff, On the Road3 Comments

August 23 – 29, 2026

Day 6: Sunday, August 23… A long day yesterday left us with a mere dozen miles to reach Feltre. That was by design. We wanted adequate time to organize gear and nail down transportation for our travel day tomorrow. Success on every front. It was beautiful riding along the Piave River.

These folks are serious about their relaxation

The last few years have offered up a crash course on navigating public transport. So far we’ve only been kicked off one train and gotten into an argument with one bus driver (I’m especially proud of that one – since it was in Spanish). Which is all to say we finally ended up with the means to get from point A to B … we think. Tomorrow will tell the tale.

The rest of the afternoon was equally productive. We sorted gear. We packed excess gear and found a safe home for our bikes for the next two weeks. We feasted on another grocery store dinner. We even had time for a walk around the neighborhood before settling in for the night.

Twelve days of clothes!
In two weeks we will walk down from those peaks

Day 7: Monday, August 24… Forty one years ago Sharon and I said “I do” to a life of adventure together. And what a wild ride it’s been – and continues to be! How apropos that we celebrate our special day in a charming city in the heart of the Dolomites of northern Italy.

Long term bike storage

It took six hours, three different trains and a bus criss-crossing the Italian countryside to get us from Feltre to Bressanone. Well worth it.

The final leg of our “travel day” journey
The White Tower – Bressanone
Happy Anniversary!

Tomorrow we head out (up) into 100% chance of rain and thunderstorms to begin our twelve day trek back to Feltre and our bikes.

Day 8: Tuesday, August 25… It was a day! One hour of bus and gondola travel saved us 6,000′ of climbing. (Good idea!) Hiking in the clouds and rain? (Meh!) Amazing views when the clouds broke (Outstanding!) Confusing trails and signage, especially in impenetrable fog (Could be better!)

Overall – it was an amazing day in the Dolomites. Whenever the clouds lifted, we were treated to sublime views. All around were peaks, ridges, spires and valleys. We met interesting people along the trail and in the rifugio.

At one point during the day, a dozen cows and an equal number of hikers all took the same narrow trail. That worked fine until the cows figured they’d gone far enough. Gridlock ensued.

Bovine gridlock

Chaos and confusion reigned, until one brave cow led the herd to a slow vehicle pullout. All hikers safely passed and order was restored to the forest.

Cows weren’t the only thing making life difficult. On again off again misty rain was a bother. It was a long uphill grind did the most to wear us down.

We topped out in a soupy fog. However, as we made the final traverse to the Schleuter Hutte, the clouds parted. We were given a tiny preview at what we have to look forward to on clear days.

Our first night in a rifugio was mixed. Staff was super good at organizing the chaos of many dozens of hikers seeking food and shelter. Excellent food and conversation around our communal table made the evening fly by. The downside is that rifugios are busy, boisterous places with very little privacy. Eight of us shared a tiny room. As son Kevin commented, “So you’re saying the old college cram isn’t really your jam anymore?” Very astute grasshopper.

Ten person dorm room

Day 9: Wednesday, August 26… Sharon and I have done some hiking. We know what distances and altitude we can handle. We used that experience to plan this hike. Turns out we may have underestimated the difficulty of hiking in the Dolomites. This day was a butt kicker.

This little gem was our second climb of the day

But wait, if you order now we’ll throw in an extra set of gnarly climbs at no extra cost!

Kind of unseemly complaining about hiking when we’re wandering through this landscape… so we won’t. Suffice to say we earned every one of these views.

One measure of the popularity of these hikes is that all lodging on the trail had been completely booked in February. We detoured off trail several miles to Badia to reach our hotel for the night.

Welcome to Badia!

Day 10: Thursday, August 27… “We didn’t see that coming!” We knew it was going to be a big climbing day – over 4,000′ vertical. For comparison, you gain 3,300 vertical feet climbing Humphreys peak outside Flagstaff. Getting to the top of Engineer Peak north of Durango involves 2,200′ -ish feet of uphill travel. What we did not expect was hundreds and hundreds of feet of via ferrata climbing. It wasn’t a designated via ferrata route…just the regular trail. We both enjoyed the challenge, but it was much steeper and harder than anticipated. Our motto for the day “We’re not slow! Its just slow going!”

We also did not expect surrounding peaks to be hidden behind a thick haze. We assumed forest fires were to blame. Apparently “high summer temperatures and humidity frequently trap moisture and fine particles in alpine valleys, creating a milky or hazy obstruction around high mountain passes.”

The haze did not do any favors to the Sella massif. We spent much of our day passing through this luna landscape. It was interesting, but…unimpressive. The last bit of “meh” came after Rifugio Boe. A gondola deposited hordes of daytrippers at elevation only a few miles from the rifugio. We found ourselves in almost unbroken conga line stretching in both directions. I

The top of the Sella Massif
Tourist conga line

With age comes wisdom. We followed the conga line to the top of Sass Pordoi tram, flashed some plastic, and miraculously were transported thousands of feet to the valley below. Brilliant!

Day 11: Friday, August 28… Fun facts. The road over Passo Pordoi was built in 1905 to open the area to tourism. This second highest pass in the Dolomites has been featured in the Giro d’Italia bike race over forty times, and four times as the finish line. During WWI,  brutal fighting took place between Italian troops and Austrian-Hungarian forces. The high peaks and ridges of this area served as the front lines. Hard to imagine.

Statue honoring famous Italian cyclist Fausto Coppi. He won the Giro d’Italia five times.

Our Italian word for today is “Ventoso” – “very windy” perfectly describes our day today. We had a very civilized six mile hike from Pordoi pass to Fedaia pass.

Yes, there was still plenty of elevation, both up and down, but more gradual. The trail was better. We exchanged yesterday’s lunar landscape for verdant valleys and honrst to goodness glaciers! It was all good, except for “ventoso”. Wind gusts were strong enough to literally blow Sharon off her feet. It was ventoso enough to require shouting within a few feet of each other to be heard. As we passed Fedaia Lake, gusts would drive freight train walls of spray the length of the lake. Other times, downdraft microbursts would hit the lake and explode – sending up huge plumes of spray. Wild. We were happy to arrive early at our rifugio.

Civilized hiking with the Marmolada massif and glacier in the background.

Fun fact. The barely visible Marmolade glacier has shrunk by 90% in the last century. In WWI, the front lines actually crossed the much larger glacier. Austrians actually carved out and built an “ice city” inside the glacier. As the glacier melts, war artifacts are still being found. Now you know.

Day 12: Saturday, August 29… Rifugio Fedaia seems to be a family run affair. The accommodations were very nice. The food was excellent and plentiful. The family in charge were grim and grumpy. Somebody doesn’t love their job.

I feel like we hit our stride today! Caught the local bus and skipped three miles of trail that just followed the road three miles down to the bottom of the valley. We hiked today with youngster Marwen from the Netherlands. He was born there, but his family came from Morocco and Tunisia. When he is not squeezing adventures into his busy schedule, he works part time while attending pharmacy school. Our conversations made the time pass quickly.

And just like that we had topped out at over 9,500′. We joined an organized group at a small summit. It included a young woman from Chicago, two Irish lasses, Brits and Kiwis. Before the trip they were complete strangers. “Now we know everything about each other” they said. Clearly they were having more fun than humans should be allowed. We also ran into Leo and Abby from Denver. We’d spent several hours in their company on night one. Felt like running into old friends. Funny how that happens on the trail.

A quick hike down (with one quick stop for a rifugio beer) brought us to San Pellegrino and our lodging for the night. We said good-night to Marwen with every expectation that we will cross paths again.

Refueling stop with Marwen
The summit summit.
Abby and Leo
From whence we came
Refueling stop #2

Tonight is our last hotel of our trip. Except for the first night, we’ve ended every day and spent our nights where a busy road crosses a popular pass. Going forward, it looks like we will be in rifugios in a more remote region. In fact we may not cross a road again until we reach Feltre at the end. We’re looking forward to it. Our trip in the Dolomites really hasn’t felt like a “through hike”.  It has felt more like we are doing  a series of day hikes connected by posh accommodations. I suspect that feeling will change. 

But that’s to be seen, and of course we will let you! Until then, seize the carp people!

Still on the Road #26

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain Stuff, On the Road1 Comment

Six Wheels: October 10 – 16

Sunday, October 10. I was the only customer at the large casino/sports bar where I intended to watch the Packer game. Weird. The only worker in the establishment spent three hours talking to me…actually at me. (Did I mention the Packer game?) I know everything that can be known about Darryl…every place he’s ever lived and worked, marital status, opinions about his ex and current wife, child, interests and hobbies, opinions about covid, government’s response to covid, the sun’s 12,000 year cycle as it pertains to climate change, ad infinitum, ad nauseum. He knows my name. I didn’t mind, since I really wasnt in a sharing mood (Packer game??) But, I am stunned at how often people, like Darryl, show a complete and utter lack of curiosity…about other people…or the broader world outside themselves. Curious.

The game ended well, and I took advantage of a good weather window to hike up to Lamoille Lake in the Ruby mountains. It was worth soggy feet. Stunning.

Monday, October 11. Very windy + very cold + very snowy + eight days without a shower = a hotel room. The math was simple. Crank the heat. Take a hot, steamy shower. Cook with a microwave. Take advantage of fast wifi. Luxury!

Tuesday, October 12. “Hope springs eternal in the face of experience which proves otherwise!” In spite of failing miserably using Google Maps to find remote campsites in Nevada, I rolled the dice again! The satellite showed a likely spot, and this time I hit it big just into Utah near the Bonneville Salt Flats. It ticked all the boxes. Deserted? Check. Interesting terrain? Check. Free? Check. Mountain hiking at my doorstep? Check. All this with the added bonus of a strong cell signal and a pile of dry firewood. Coincidence? I’d like to suggest a direct connection between this perfect site and my whining a few days ago. Just saying.

Wednesday, October 13. Another frosty morning in the 20’s, but calm and sunny. Perfect weather to explore the local peaks.

After a brief side trip to check out the Bonneville Salt Flats, I made the drive to Salt Lake City to spend the night at daughter-in-law Katie’s apartment. As always an enjoyable time with stimulating conversation and good food. Tomorrow will be a joyful reunion with Sharon at the SLC Airport.

Thursday, October 14. A few days ago, heavy snow snapped a support pole on our small awning. The supply chain issues affecting the entire world have trickled down to me. No replacements are to be found anywhere, at any price. I had some ideas about alternatives, but thought I’d stop in at Hinckley Overlanding in SLC…just to see. Huge shout out to these guys, especially to Darren Scott. We all chatted a bit. I explained my problem. We looked at some hopeful looking alternatives. Then Darren went to his rig, pulled out a spare pole which, while not a match, can be made to work – and just gave it to me. Refused anything in return!!! Random acts of kindness and generosity really are the best thing ever. Always good to remember in my interactions with people. Check them out here. www.hinckleyoverlanding.com

Late afternoon Sharon arrived safely,, and we did have a joyful reunion. Even though we had talked several times while she was away, we had lots catching up. That evening I had the best mole sauce since being first introduced to this amazing food of the gods in Mexico eighteen years ago. Thanks for the suggestion Katie, and thanks for the hospitality.

Friday, October 15. Drive to Durango. Lots of good forward looking conversation as we “plan” our next year of travel. Speaking of joyful reunions…awesome to see the Durango family again!

Saturday, October 16. Nothing warms the heart of a grandparent like actively being a grandparent. That was Saturday.

  • Remember rolling down a hill?
  • LEAF FIGHT!

It’s been a good week. We’re looking forward to another week (together) with Aaron, Vanessa, Oliver and Kiri, and all the family and friends here in Durango. We have another grandchild birthday to celebrate, work to do on vehicles, and a large family/friend camping/mountain bike trip in Oliver’s honor.

Here’s hoping you also have an amazing week to look forward to. STC!

Still on the Road #25

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain Stuff, On the Road2 Comments

Six Wheels: October 3 – 9

Sunday, October 3. When we met in the Walmart parking lot I counted four teeth when he smiled. His belt fought a losing battle against his sagging landslide of a belly. I made certain… assumptions. Turns out he has an impressive resume of Yosemite big wall climbs, and hard-core backcountry ski trips. Currently he fills his free time racing up to 100mph on “sand yachts” three wheel sail driven vehicles. Not what I assumed!

Sharon flew out this morning to be with her folks and nephew Eric. After stocking up at Walmart for several days of solitude, I traveled about 50 miles east and eventually found a place to spend the night. It was not pretty, but at least it was quiet and remote.

Good Morning Mr. Sun

Monday, October 4. If Fallon, Nevada was a paperback book, it was a faded, dog eared, worn and tatty looking one. Based on it’s cover, I also misjudged this particular book. I made what was meant to be a quick stop at the city park to organize gear and fill water jugs. It was meant to be quick, but locals kept stopping by to chat – and they were all so friendly! Hours later I was finally ready to head east. Well done Fallon! I should also add…every friendly Fallonian, completely unprompted, shared their extreme dislike of the Californians who have settled in their fair city! We’ve heard this sentiment often. I wonder if folks from the Golden state realize in what high regard they are held across the west.

Today I found my hoped for solitude. I put the quiet to good use, reading,  scaling a local peak and enjoying the total absence of humanity.

Tuesday, October 5. Today was a travel day across Nevada on the county’s “loneliest” highway.  Highway 50 crosses a series of north-south mountain ranges, then drops into long flat valleys and dry lake beds in between. While different in texture, it offered the same kind of vast, wide openness as the North Slope of Alaska. Wasn’t expecting that. The day ended in Great Basin National Park where there looks to be several days of climbing, hiking and spelunking.

  • Two “Oversize” loads meet!
  • Nevada traffic jam

Wednesday, October 6. The highlight of the day was sitting atop 13,058 foot Wheeler Peak. (See what I did there?) I lounged around the summit, catching occasional glimpses of the mountain and the valley far, far below. Eventually the clouds refused to leave, so I did instead. Im glad I left when I did.. By the time I arrived back at camp, those same clouds were lightening their load. It looks like that rain, and even snow will be my companion for several days.

  • Wheeler Peak

Prior to the hike, I chatted with the German owners of this behemoth overland vehicle. They’d been traveling the world for several years in that beast. Seems a bit of an overkill just to travel the same places as Sharon and I in and on our humble vehicles. In their defense, we haven’t biked across Africa…yet!

  • Bumpy3 and Behemoth Bumpy

Thursday, October 7. Indecision! Disappointment! Delight! The forecast is for rain pretty much everywhere for several days. What to do? Not content to sit around in the rain, I found several intriguing back roads that led in the general direction of the Ruby mountains. Why not head in that direction and see what happens? Turns out…not much. Lots of mediocrity. And the last 40 miles – disappointment. Even though this part of the state is chock full, filled to the brim with nothing, every square inch is fenced, gated, padlocked and posted. Really? Fine then! I guess I’ll have to find some overpriced, noisy campground (grumble, grumble).

Delight. Imagine my surprise at finding a quiet, mostly empty, cheap and beautiful campsite right in Lamoille Canyon. Once again I stand corrected.

Friday, October 8. After a stormy night that left snow on the surrounding peaks, the sun was a welcome sight. Alas, it didn’t last. A rainy day seemed like a good day to do chores and explore nearby Elko. I completed my chores, and noted that Elko didn’t warrant much exploration. The weather hadn’t improved, so instead I endeavored to improve my mind at the local library. In addition to the books, one can learn much about a town through a bit of unavoidable eavesdropping. Thanks to patrons and staff, my curiosity about Elko was amply rewarded.

I was excited to see that while it had been raining heavily in town, it was snowing up in Lamoille Canyon. Excited until I saw that the wet snow had broken a support pole and partially collapsed our small awning. One more thing added to the list!

Saturday, October 9. As expected, I awoke to find everything covered by several inches of wet snow. It was lovely, but… Sharon and I pride ourselves on being flexible with our plans when circumstances dictate, such as the current weather. Overnight snow has been followed by a cloudy, unpleasant windchill kind of day…with more wintry weather on the menu. I wouldn’t mind, once in a while, not being dictated to and being able to follow through on plans. Lamoille Canyon is filled with hiking opportunities, and I was keen to spend several days exploring the trails. The weather is making that difficult.. Oh well, enough first world whinging right? Suck it up buttercup! I’m warm, dry, well fed, have good books and movies, as well as a nice selection of craft beer from which to choose. And, the wind died enough for a couple mile sunset hike. I shall endeavor to persevere! I hope you do as well. I’ll leave you with some pretty pics. STC!

On the Road Again #7

On By KBGearDaveIn Mountain Stuff, On the Road, Water Stuff2 Comments

May 24 – June 2, 2021

Sharon and I fancy ourselves connoisseurs of fine mountains. The San Francisco Peaks of home may pale in comparison to the more prolific peaks of the Rockies…but they are accessible, familiar, and…home! The San Juan mountains of SW Colorado are wild and rugged…everything a good range should be. They invite – and offer a lifetime of opportunities to explore. The Tetons are magnificent specimens! A visual feast, even if poorly named by someone with an over active imagination.

The Cascade mountains and big peaks of the Pacific Northwest are in a different class. They are remote and aloof. Dense forests (nay, jungles) and clouds keep them well hidden. Jagged slopes and glacier shrouded heights deny access to all but the most committed. That, perhaps, is part of their appeal. They do not give up their secrets easily. As someone once said, ” All things excellent are as difficult as rare.”

Monday (5/24). We arrived on the eastern edge of the Cascades late Sunday. Making our way across the range on Monday, we are given glimpses of the hidden beauty.

At a pullover above Diablo Lake we met four youngsters bicycle touring from Washington to Maine. All recent college graduates, they were eight days into an epic journey. They were feeling exhilarated – and a bit overwhelmed. We donated four Snickers bars to the cause and offered words of encouragement. We assured them that even though they had a long climbs and long days ahead, they would cherish this summer for the rest of their lives. It is fun to see others out seizing the carp.

We eventually found a place to call home for a few days on the western shores of Baker Lake. In spite of some light rain, we launched the boats for a leisurely tour. Unfortunately all the local peaks remained hidden. It was odd, and just a bit eerie…no other souls around.

Tuesday: No cell coverage, but the last forecast we’d seen was for an all day rain. We were treated instead to a nice mix of sun, puffy clouds with just a few sprinkles thrown in. We managed to get in a two hour bike ride along the lake before the rain arrived in force. Still no people, but lots of woodland creatures interested in making our acquaintance.

  • Mt Baker hiding in the clouds.

Wednesday: Plan today was to ride 15 miles and 2,500′ up to a trailhead on the flanks of Mt Baker. Instead we had a lie in, sorted gear for the bike trip, and did some chores around camp. Eventually, we drove up and went hiking instead. Felt a bit out of place as back country skiers skied past on their way down to the trailhead. The climb was worth the effort to catch a glimpse of Baker up close. Seven years ago a full Diapers and Depends expedition climbed Baker from the other side. Back at camp we prepped for another batch of rain.

  • Mt. Shuksan

Thursday – Sunday: More and more our attention is turning toward our trip north. The long range forecast for Prudhoe Bay is looking pretty good for our Thursday arrival.

Our original reservation to Prudhoe was meant to leave Seattle at 8am in the morning. A while back AK Airlines abruptly changed our flight to leave at midnight…not helpful for logistics. Since then they’ve added back some flights, so Sharon was able to work her magic and get us rebooked almost to our original times. Yay!

We’ve had a joyful reunion with the B’s here in Bellingham. So much fun getting caught up and reminiscing. We’ve packed a lot of history in the nine years we’ve known Cailie and Rob. We’ve enjoyed deep conversations, sunsets from high ridges, kayaking on the bay, hikes on beaches and forests. They have been the most amazing and gracious hosts. We’re already looking forward to seeing them again in the fall…and hopefully on a larger adventure early next year.

One more day to enjoy our friends and do some final prep before heading to Seattle, and eventually…the arctic. Our next post will likely not occur until we have completed the Dalton Highway and arrive in Fairbanks in mid June. We appreciate all the support and encouragement you have offered! Thank you! Until then…STC!

Dear Gravity…

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Endurance Stuff, Mountain StuffLeave a comment

…We need to talk. I’ve been attracted to you for as long as I can remember, but I’ve started to feel that what we have together is unhealthy. So often it seems that I’m doing all the work in our relationship. I feel you judging me for the extra pounds around my middle. Half the time we don’t even talk – you hardly let me get a word out. Then I start to think that the problems are my fault. You know the old cliche, “Its not you…its me.” Maybe you’re right. Maybe if I dropped a few pounds, passed on that extra beer or cup of ice cream we would get along better. But in the end, it seems that no matter what changes I make, or commit to make – you’re constant – you never change. It is frustrating. At the worst of times, you are a cold, heartless shrew.

Most definitely NOT on speaking terms with gravity
Photo Credit: Joel Schenk

But then, I get to the top of some ridge or peak, and the pressure you’ve been putting on me lessens. It’s like a weight has been lifted from my shoulders, (and legs, and feet). I take the time to enjoy the view and the accomplishment, and just like that I’m ready to forgive you for all the suffering you put me through. As I head down a trail and fall back into your warm embrace, and enjoy the wind on my face, I remember why I love you. Time flies when you’re having fun, and as I fly down on my bike or skis, or lightly run down a trail – I’m having FUN! I find my voice again. I sing, and laugh and shout for joy. We’re an awesome couple! We make a perfect team! You’re my best friend. The thing is – this hate/love cycle just doesn’t seem healthy. I realize that any good relationship requires hard work. And I really do appreciate all you’ve done for me. We’ve had some great times over the years. But just once in a while – I wish you’d lighten up and give me a break! That doesn’t seem like that much to ask. Its not like there’s a law against that, is there?

I think we have something special, I just needed to get some things off my chest. I’m willing to keep working at our relationship. I hope you’ll continue to be there for me.

XOXOXOX – Dave

Aaron…on the way DOWN Mt Humphreys

To Hell and Back

On By KBGearDaveIn Endurance Stuff, Mountain Stuff, Water StuffLeave a comment

As a general rule, my goal is to avoid any place named “Hell”. This past week I made an exception. According to the USGS, some variation of the word “Hell” is affixed to 73 places in Arizona. After a good start, our winter has sputtered a bit. Since skiing conditions have suffered as a result, and for a change of pace, I decided to give the kayak some love. This time of year there are two obvious choices from Flag – Lakes Powell or Pleasant…both a two-ish hour drive. Whilst pondering my options, the thought occurred, why not combine time on the water with a trail run in a new area?

Some internet searching had turned up a little traveled trail leading to Governor’s Peak. This nondescript little peak is located in the northeast corner of the Hell’s Canyon Wilderness, located in the Hieroglyphic mountain range. Twenty years in Arizona and I had never heard of any of these places. That was definitely part of the attraction.

  • The trail…well…path to Governor’s peak
  • Amazing hiking through the saguaro cacti
  • Lake Pleasant to the southeast from the summit.

The descriptions were accurate. The trail was lightly used…and in many places was more of a suggestion of where a trail might go if one existed. Some well placed cairns were most helpful in leading to the summit. Probably the most surprising, and most welcome feature of the hike was the presence of flowing water. Water in the desert always seems such a gift. At several creek crossings I just sat and listened to the sound of trickling water, accompanied by the scores of birds also enjoying the streams.

For a trail run, as is often the case, there wasn’t much “running” involved – at least on the way up. Turns out there was a significant amount of “up” on this trail. Coming down, the trail was a bit more obvious and I was able to jog down most of the way. Love all the oxygen at lower elevations. Overall, a super pleasant way to spend a few hours.

Back at the car, I changed clothes, pulled out the bag chair, and enjoyed the view and a few snacks. Then it was off to the 2nd part of the day. The northern launch ramp at Lake Pleasant was just a few miles back down the road. Since there was a fairly brisk southerly breeze, I decided to head in that direction first.

From the comfort of bed earlier in the day, I had thought I’d spend three or four hours getting a real workout paddling around the lake. Yeah, well…plans change. Paddling into the wind for an hour seemed like enough of a workout, especially for muscles that seemed genuinely surprised to be swinging a paddle again. I poked around the Scorpion Bay marina checking out the sailboats and chatting with a couple in another kayak. I enjoyed a leisurely (with the wind) paddle back north – checking out some bays, coves and mules along the way.

I love winter. I love winter activities. I’m most definitely NOT ready for winter to be over. But what a treat to be able to enjoy a lovely ‘spring’ day for just the cost of a few hours driving.

Diapers and Depends through the Years

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Endurance Stuff, Mountain Stuff, Water StuffLeave a comment

Sharon was recently going through some old photos and came across this one from February 2012. We’d all just climbed up the insanely steep “trail” out of South Canyon – and most important – were all still smiling. This little trip was the first time I’d met Rob, Cailie or Andrew. it was also the very first Diapers and Depends Expedition.

I’ve described this before, but during the trip we very quickly started with some good natured trash talking – e.g. the youngsters among us were “barely out of diapers”. We were so old we needed Depends! And so it went. Thus was born “Diapers and Depends Expeditions”. Since then, plus or minus a few others, the Diapers and Depends gang has reeled off an impressive list of accomplishments. As often happens, seeing this early photo made me a bit nostalgic and prompted this pictorial walk down memory lane celebrating the last eight years.

2012-2013

2014-2015

2016 – 2019

I can’t begin to describe what joy and enjoyment these folks and these trips have brought to our lives over the past eight years. And this extensive list isn’t nearly complete. It does not include all the conversations, emails, texts, phone calls, Flagstaff beer runs, picnics, dinners, birthday parties and just general time spent together with the Diapers and Depends group. It doesn’t include all the fantastic times we’ve spent with our grown children and extended family. It doesn’t include our large circle of friends here in Flagstaff. So, in this Thanksgiving week – it seems appropriate to be thankful not only for the opportunities we’ve had to explore so much of our world, but especially for all the wonderful people who are part of our lives.

Happy Thanksgiving All!

JMT Through Hike #3 – Pictures

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain Stuff6 Comments

“Life is too short to hike ugly places”

-Me…after listening to PCT thru hikers talk about all the dry, dusty, desolate and downright ugly sections they hiked through before arriving in the Sierra Nevada.

The John Muir Trail is hard. Getting from here to there always involves climbing up before climbing down…or climbing down followed by yet another climb up. For many, the high elevations cause significant problems. According to Ranger Rob at Crabtree Meadow, 90% of all evacuations are for altitude related problems. From the southern end, just getting to the start of the JMT requires either STD’s (screaming thighs of death) up from Whitney Portal or a roundabout twenty extra miles. From the northern end, one’s introduction to the JMT is 8,000 feet of climbing from the Yosemite Valley floor to the top of Donohue Pass. The John Muir Trail is hard…but oh, it is so worth it!! As an anonymous writer once penned, “All things excellent are as difficult as rare.” So true!

Almost every day, and often multiple times in a day, a hiker on the JMT is confronted by world class views. After the second day we put a one-per-day limit on the use of the word “Wow!” It really was that spectacular. So in this post, I’d like to let the Sierra Nevada speak for itself.

Under the Stars

We spent twenty-one days on the trail. We hiked every single day. With the exception of two nights spent at Tuolumne Meadow, we laid our heads to rest in a different location every night. You can spend hundreds of dollars a night to sleep in someone else’s bed in a luxury hotel and not come close to matching the luxurious beauty of our open air bedrooms. Here is a sample.

Wildflowers

“There is poety among the wildflowers”

– Rachel Irene Stevenson

Cause and effect. This was an exceptionally good snow year in the Sierra Nevada mountains. Heavy snow meant a late melt. A late melt meant a few extra mosquitoes along the trail. More of an annoyance than the apocalyptic swarms of biblical proportions that many warned of. Late snow also meant late wildflowers in glorious colors and quantities. Sharon took some extra time capturing their beauty.

Rocks and Water

At home I am often annoyed by long haul truckers who feel compelled to compensate for certain…shortcomings… by the overzealous use of engine brakes on a nearby highway. So it was with great joy that almost every night for three weeks I was lulled to sleep by the soothing sounds of creeks, cascades, rivers, rivulets, in other words, moving water of every description. Every day we were treated to boisterous waterfalls, gentle creeks, and everything in between. Every day we were treated to stunning alpine lakes filling broad valleys, or nestled in the intimate embrace of soaring granite peaks. Every day we were surrounded by “rocks” and “water”. Those familiar words are empty and meaningless until they’ve been filled with images and memories from the Sierra Nevada.

“Few places in this world are more dangerous than home. Fear not, therefore, to try the mountain-passes. They will kill care, save you from deadly apathy, set you free, and call forth every faculty into vigorous, enthusiastic action.”

-John Muir “The Wild Muir”

I second John’s sentiment above. Fear not to try the mountain passes. And not just on the John Muir trail. Some fear it is already being loved to death. There are countless lesser know, barely traveled trails all throughout the Sierra Nevada (and all over our country) that will yield similar view and experiences. The important thing is to educate yourself about “leave no trace” camping ethics, equip yourself with what little you need to be comfortable outside – and leave the rest of the gear home. Then get out the door – whether it is for one night or one month. Seize the Carp!

JMT Through Hike #2 – Friends and Fascinating People

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain StuffLeave a comment

I confess that when it comes to the wilderness I am basically pretty selfish. I want it all for myself. I don’t want to share. Perfection in backpacking has always been to never see another soul. The JMT is NOT that kind of a trip! This is a beautiful area and everyone from long distance through hikers to weekend warriors want a piece of it. I knew that going in. Turns out I was surprisingly OK sharing my wilderness with others. In fact, our favorite moments on the trail involved the friends we started with, and the fascinating people we met along the way. This post is a tribute to some of these amazing people.

“Friendship improves happiness, and abates misery, by doubling our joys, and dividing our grief.” -Marcus Tullius Cicero

At times it can be a challenge to organize a trip involving people with different work and family responsibilities, and from different corners of the country. As was proven once again on this trip – it is so worth it. We laughed with – and at – one another. We shared memories of many years and trips together. We had serious conversations about serious matters and deeply personal issues. We walked in comfortable silence, simply enjoying each other’s company. Thank you Sharon, Andrew, Cailie and Dan for just being who you are and making yet another trip special. Can’t wait for the next adventure…

“You can make more friends in two months by becoming interested in other people than you can in two years by trying to get other people interested in you.” -Dale Carnegie

Most interactions with other hikers involved just a smile and brief pleasantries while passing on the trail. Occasionally though, we would stop long enough to find out a bit about the people sharing the trail with us. From time to time we would share info or observations, and compare notes and experiences. Here is a small sample of a few of the fascinating people out enjoying the JMT.

The appreciation of this wild place, the enthusiasm and the joy so often expressed by others was infectious. Rather than detract from the experience on the trail, these brief encounters were uplifting and stimulating. Our passing conversations often led to longer discussions as Sharon and I continued on down (or up) the trail. All the meet ups above took place with southbound folks as we passed. From time to time though, circumstances brought us together with fellow northbound travelers. Several of these chance encounters led to some deeper connections.

Father and daugher – Kirk and Brittney

We first met Kirk and Brittney on our way to resupply at Muir Trail Ranch (MTR). At first we leapfrogged along the trail, then we hiked together for a bit, then chatted even more as we sorted and swapped food from our resupply boxes. As happens, we ended up hiking and camping together several more times. Kirk has been on some amazing trips out back of beyond. Definitely a kindred spirit. Brittney is a veterinarian with some fascinating insights into the challenges faced by folks in this profession…and just life in general. She is incredibly insightful and eloquent – you should definitely check out her blog here. https://dvmexplorer.com/blog/ . Fortunately we met up one last time in Tuolomne Meadows just as we were leaving for home.

Vangie and Jane

We first saw Vangie and Jane at Vermilion Valley Resort as a group of JMT hikers were inhaling embarrassingly large breakfasts. Up the trail we leapfrogged and chatted a bit, then ended up camping together. These ladies were crushing it. Jane especially was knowledgeable about Yosemite and offered some helpful (and for once) accurate information about hiking in Yosemite. Vangie is planning a trip to Nepal later this fall, so we had fun sharing our experiences.

Ondrej & Helena – proudly representing the Czech Republic

What can I say about Ondrej and Helena? We first met camping at Garnet Lake, and then spent the next several days enjoying the privilege of getting to know this wonderful pair. We learned about the Czech Republic. As always, it was fascinating to see our country through fresh eyes. “People here are sooo friendly!” And thanks to their patient tutelage, I am now practically fluent in Czech. “Ahoy” is “hello” – although I think they may have just been messing with me. And “It is beautiful” – To je krásný. Just seeing their smiles and zest for life every day made the world seem a better place.

Our last night in the backcountry we spent hours along this beautiful river with Helena, Ondrej and the Texas Twins. Perfect.

VVR dinner gang. From left, Mylan, Tigger, Kirk, Brittney, Dave, Freight Train, and Taper & Bernard.

At the beginning of the evening, four separate groups were complete strangers. Several hours (and beers) later, we were sharing food and intimate details about our lives. Such is life on the trail. Mylan is in the merchant marine and somehow needed to get to the other side of the Sierra mountains in an impossible time frame. He said it was for work – but there may have been a girl involved. His friend Ethan across the table ate so much food that he earned his trail name “Taper” (for tapeworm). His tapeworm earned the trail name “Bernard”. Tigger and Freight Train met on the PCT. They had intended to through hike and had done a significant portion, until injury and life got in the way. They had rejoined for this middle portion. Even though three months earlier they hadn’t known each other, now they were like a married couple finishing each other’s stories and sentences. It was a magical evening.

Irrepressible Rachel!

Rachel was an interesting find. Tuolumne Meadow has a ‘backpacker’ portion of the campground where JMT through hikers and backpackers can spend a night as they pass through. Rachel was not hiking. She was on a solo bike tour and had camped nearby. Somehow she and Sharon got chatting and before long, she was joining us as we ferried our car down to Yosemite Valley in preparation for the last portion of our hike. The hour and a half drive wasn’t nearly long enough to even begin to learn about all the things that made this young lady amazing. Follow her on Instagram (RachelsontheRoad) to find out for yourself. She well and truly seizes the carp every single day.

Tim Cahill, adventurer and writer once said, “A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.” I couldn’t agree more. When I think of our experience on the JMT, I will certainly remember the achingly beautiful mountains, lakes and streams. No doubt it will be those images that will make you want to venture out to see those places yourself. But when I think back to our experience on the JMT, the images that will come to mind first will be the smiles and laughter of the beautiful people we met along the way.

JMT Thru Hike #1 – Overview

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain StuffLeave a comment
Lots of discussion about which direction was better. The only two directions that really matter on the JMT are “up” and “down”!

At 5:45 on a Wednesday in August we walked into Yosemite Valley, twenty-one days after setting out from the Whitney Portal trail head…and just like that it was over. The thing we had been dreaming about, and planning, and preparing for so long was suddenly a memory. In one sense it is very easy to quantify the accomplishment. We had walked a total of 234-ish miles in 21 days and climbed 42,240 vertical feet along the way…but those are just numbers. Numbers don’t begin to capture the feeling of topping out on a high pass after climbing uphill for miles, or the sight of a snow capped granite peak perfectly reflected in an alpine lake, or the magic of the evening light on that same mountain at sunset, or the power of a roaring waterfall or the soothing sound of a gentle riffle on that same creek. The statistics of a through hike have nothing to do with the joys of walking through wilderness and talking with old friends, or the simple pleasures of making new friends along the way. A hike on the John Muir Trail is very much more than the sum of all these parts.

Three years prior to this trip, I had the privilege of hiking a portion of the JMT with Dan, Phil, Steve and Michelle. ( https://www.seizingthecarp.com/jmt-august-2016/ ) Because of knee problems, Sharon was unable to participate on that trip. Having seen and heard about our experiences however, she suggested that now with the time to do so, we should through hike the entire trail. She didn’t have to convince me, and we reached out to our usual group of willing accomplices. Eventually the field of the willing was whittled down to those actually able to take the time. Dan Boss, Cailie the Gnome Princess and Andrew O all signed on to accompany us almost half way to an exit point over Bishop Pass. Sharon and I would complete the journey on our own. That was the plan. Reality of course had plans of her own.

  • The first day was tough. Lots of uphill with ten days of food crammed in our packs.
  • High camp at 12,000′
  • We woke on day two to hysterical laughter while these two attempted to open Cailie’s bear canister. It was so full, it wouldn’t open.
  • Dan being helpful as always. “We should go up there!”
  • Whitney Pass and thankfully some “down” after all the “up”

On day two as we descended from Whitney pass, Andrew badly sprained his ankle near Guitar Lake. After an initial assessment and some treatment, we decided the best option was to make our way down to Crabtree Meadow and the ranger station there. By the next morning, it was clear Andrew was not going anywhere under his own power. His multi-colored, softball size ankle and the near certainty that he had broken a bone during his fall led Ranger Rob to order a helicopter evacuation. Thirty minutes later Andrew was whisked away, and we were left to mourn the departure of our friend. For someone who works as hard as he does, and has so little free time, it was incredibly sad to see him deprived of the rest of the trip. Having said that, it could easily have been much worse and we were very thankful for all the help in getting Andrew safely home (and to surgery several days later).

  • “Physician heal thyself.” First attempt at treatment at Guitar Lake
  • Andrew convalescing in Crabtree Meadow prior to evac. Rest, ice and elevate. Doing all the right stuff
  • Apparently only one in ten evacs are for ortho injuries. Most are for altitude related problems. Way to be special Andrew

With the evac done, we packed up and continued our journey northward. As I’ve noted before, the four remaining members of the Diapers and Depends team have shared many adventures and are all very experienced backpackers. We very quickly settled into an easy rhythm of life on the trail. Every day brought unbelievable world class views, challenging trails, stimulating conversation, and enjoyable camp life at the end of the day. All too quickly it was time for Dan and Cailie to jump off the trail and head out over Bishop Pass. The fact that we so enjoyed their company made it that much more difficult to say good-bye.

  • K2 and Bobo ready to head out over Bishop Pass.

Having said good-bye, Sharon and I fell right back into our own familiar routines…we’ve been doing this sort of thing for the past 34 years after all. One difference we did notice hiking as a couple, is that we started meeting and interacting more with other hikers along the trail. We met and spent time with some truly amazing people along the way (more on that in another post.) Unless you’ve done it, it is hard to get your mind around hiking 200+ miles or camping in the mountains for three weeks (without a shower I might add). Very quickly it becomes routine, and then suddenly the end looms. For me, walking into the campground at Tuolumne Meadow was the emotional end of the trip for me. We had decided that we would drop packs and hike the last bit from Tuolumne to Yosemite Valley as a day hike. Even though we took a detour to the top of Cloud’s Rest and enjoyed stunning views from far above Yosemite Valley – the last day seemed very much like an afterthought. We were really just connecting the dots to say we’d completed the hike.

  • Clouds Rest was a worthwhile side trip off the JMT on our last day
  • Pretty amazing view into Yosemite Valley.
  • JMT Rule #1 – Don’t believe anything anyone tells you! The official distance of the JMT is 211 miles. Note the distance listed to Mt Whitney…

So now we’re home. We’ve enjoyed several showers, washed clothes, cleaned and put away gear. We’ve reconnected with many of our friends here in Flagstaff and have tried to convey some sense of what it was like on the trail. We’re left to ponder what – if any – impact our time on the JMT has had. I’ll write more in depth, but here’s a quick first swipe at it.

  • We are fortunate beyond belief to have the time and the health to complete a lengthy and challenging trip like this.
  • We are fortunate beyond belief to have vast expanses of natural beauty like this in our country
  • Sharon and I had very different trips. I felt good and truly didn’t have a bad day. Sharon fought through an early illness and other health issues along the way. As Cailie said, knowing you have the mental resilience and physical toughness to fight through issues like that is something you can put in the bank during other difficult days.
  • I love nature and especially being in true wilderness settings without people. Having said that, having Andrew, Cailie and Dan along, and all the new friends we made along the trail really made this trip special.

There is much more I’d like to share about this trip. I’d like to talk specifically about some of the folks we met. I’ll speak a bit about some of the gear we used – what worked and what didn’t. I have no desire to give a step by step description of the trail or point out specific special places…there’s too much of that on the internet already. I would like to just share some of the beautiful images you might expect to see if you decide to wander this trail yourself…or at the very least, give you a small sense of what draws us to places like this. I will share some of the lessons we learned on a long trip (still possible to learn something new after all these years). So if you haven’t already done so, scroll down and sign up for email updates. And if you have any specific questions, please feel free to reach out. Sharon and I will be happy to offer any help we can. Until next time – Happy Trails and Seize the Carp!

Nepal 2012 – The Pictures

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain StuffLeave a comment

It’s been said that you can’t live in the past. I politely disagree. A long time ago someone told me “You are who you are because of where you were then.” It was a clever way of saying that we are products of the people we’ve met, the places we’ve been, and our experiences. Even though it is now in the past, the friendships we developed, the people we met, the things we saw and experienced had a lasting impact on us. Nepal changed us. That part of our past lives on in the present.

In the previous posts, I’ve tried to provide some insights into what made Nepal special. Hopefully, a few favorite photos will engender a sense of awe and wonder for this part of our world. This first gallery contains pictures taken near the end of our trip during our climb of Imja Tse. Located in the shadow of Everest’s neighbor Lhotse, the views from on top left me speechless.

The people, the villages, the temples, stupas, mani walls, prayer flags all offered a visual feast. Ultimately though, as lovers of high places, we had come for the mountains – and they most certainly did not disappoint.

Feel free reach out with any questions you might have about visiting Nepal. I/we would love to share any insights or info we have.

Nepal 2012 – The Trek

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain Stuff1 Comment
The Diapers and Depends Gang

After planning and anticipating for close to a year, having traveled from various places in the U.S. to San Francisco in order to fly half-way around the world, having survived both the traffic in Kathmandu and the flight into Lukla…we were more than ready to finally begin hiking.

The Great Diapers and Depends Nepal Expedition outside of Namche, with – yes – Everest in the background.
Dave, Joel, Dan, Cailie, Finjo, Andrew, Rob, Allison, Sharon, Nima
The Route

Given that our group was composed of people who love mountains and high places, we specifically chose a three week trip that would take us throughout the rugged area south and west of Mt Everest. All trekkers to the Everest region of Nepal start by flying into Lukla, and after two days of walking, arrive in Namche. The most popular trip from this historic village appeared to be the out and back trip to Everest Base Camp (EBC). Our trip would avoid that main trail and take us off significantly the beaten path. As we completed our meandering clockwise journey around the region, we would cross over two high passes – Renjo Pass (17,585′) and Chola Pass (17,782′). We would take a side trip north to Everest base camp, with a chance to climb Kala Patthar (18,192). Finally we would take another side trip to attempt to climb a mountain tucked into the shadow of Everest known as Island Peak (aka Imja Tse – 20,305′). In all, we would spend close to two week above 14,000′.

Everest High Passes and Peaks route
Trekking…in general

There are several options available for anyone interested in trekking in the Himalaya. A few folks found their way to Lukla by themselves. Hiking with backpacks, they either camped or made their own arrangements each night to stay in one of the many tea houses. As an alternative, Philip and Michele hired a guide and porter through Mountain Monarch to help with logistics, but followed their own itinerary. Others went with western guide companies. They had porters carry their gear, but generally had western guides and food. To a large degree, it seemed that while they passed through the region they remained separate from the local scene. Our choice was to go with a package deal from Mountain Monarch. We had a full complement of guides and porters. With the exception of base camp at Imja Tse, we ate and slept in tea houses along the way. We also followed a defined agenda, with our path, distances, rest days, etc for the most part predetermined. While we totally enjoyed our trip as it unfolded, it also would have been nice to travel using our famous “no plan” plan. If we were to do it again, we would probably follow the example of Philip and Michele. There was definitely value in having local knowledge and expertise, especially just getting through the airport to Lukla. They enjoyed a bit more freedom in deciding when and where they wanted to go.

Lodging

Trekking has become big business in the Khumbu Himal. In many villages, it appears that almost the entire economy is given over to accommodating trekkers. We were part of that. We took all our meals, and spent most nights in tea houses. In general, tea houses all have a common room, heated by a yak dung stove, where folks could hang out and where meals are served.  Sleeping areas are unheated double rooms with simple platforms topped with a foam pad. Typically there is a single bathroom – dubbed the squatter – that is shared by all. While they all had similar features, that is not to say they were all the same. Some were a bit more …’polished’ than others. Some had lights, some had none. Some had carpet in the bedrooms, some had dirt floors covered with a bit of astro turf. Given the remote nature of our trip and the cold weather, even the most rustic tea house offered a relatively comfortable place to call home at the end of each day.

Food

The food was…a bit of a challenge for us. Locals typically ate a vegetable and rice dish known as dal bhat and seemed quite content. Several times our guides turned up their noses at offers to share our western food choices. Dal bhat was fine, and we all tried it at our first group meal. Personally I would have had a hard time eating that twice a day for three weeks. The tea houses tried hard to tailor their menus to the tastes of an international population of trekkers. Given the difficulty of getting supplies to this remote region, and the unfamiliar nature of many foreign food preferences, they were actually remarkably successful. Having said that, there were also some spectacular failures. The “spaghetti” with “home made noodles” was instantly renamed “tapeworms in blood” both for the looks and taste. Since wasting food in a poor country was almost unforgivably thoughtless, and after trying several optimistically named menu items, we all learned to stick to simple, safe fare such as hard fried eggs, and various potato dishes. We recognized that our difficulty with the food had more to do with our taste and expectations than what was offered. Having said that, we all struggled to get enough calories to fuel our hike and keep us warm in the constant cold. We also agreed that the word ‘explosive’ should never, under any circumstances, ever apply to certain bodily functions. We all agreed based on experience. Enough said. We laugh about it now, but at the time it was a real challenge.

The Trail

I believe Joel and Allison calculated after the fact, that we traveled some 160 miles during our three week trek. The trail varied from finely laid stone paths to ‘barely-there-path-wannabe’ pathways. We varied in elevation from 8,500′ a day out of Lukla to almost 18,000′ crossing over the passes. We walked in shorts for a day or two, and endured horizontal snow and well below freezing temps. We passed through humble villages and bustling trekker hot spots. We visited monasteries and met young monks texting on smartphones shortly after chanting words from ancient texts. We were treated to stunning mountain vistas while walking in the footsteps of generations of Tibetan traders and the earliest mountaineers. It was all exactly what we hoped for in a trip to Nepal.

Next time: A picture speaks a thousand words. I’ll be posting some of the most dramatic pictures from our time in Nepal. Sign up below for email notification.

Nepal 2012 – The People

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain StuffLeave a comment

In the Throne Room of the Mountain gods

As we all pondered and prepared for our trip to Nepal, our main focus was on…well, the mountains. We were going to be spending three weeks wandering around in the shadow of Himalayan peaks. What we didn’t know, and hadn’t anticipated, was how much we would come to admire and appreciate the Nepalese people in general, and our guides and porters specifically.

Dawa Finjo Sherpa met us at the airport. For the next month this young man was our guide, mentor, nurse-maid, and friend. Although he was young, he had a wealth of experience in the mountains both as a climber and as a guide. He made all the arrangements for us at the various tea houses as we trekked through the countryside. He sized up our abilities and planned our route and side trips accordingly. As we all, one by one, fell prey to various lung and intestinal maladies, he reached into his bag of western and traditional remedies to nurse us back to health. Gradually as we got to know him, we were able to coax out some amazing stories. One of my favorites was about his successful Everest climb just six months prior. He had been paired with the egotistical and incompetent leader of an Albanian national team of climbers. This ‘climber’ was more than willing to let the Sherpa guides break trail, fix ropes, haul all the gear, food, oxygen, set up the tents, etc. so that he could ‘climb’ the mountain. Despite his lack of talent, this individual insisted that he be the first to reach the summit. Finjo just nodded and smiled – and dialed back his oxygen flow. As he slowed down, the rest of the team caught up and they reached the top together. Well played Finjo – well played. Now seven years later, Finjo still makes sure to wish the “Queen Mom” (Sharon) a happy birthday every year when the date rolls around. We couldn’t have asked for a better trip leader.

Our trip through the Himalayas would have been very different without the porters. We were each allowed a 35 lb duffel bag with extra clothes, sleeping bag, personal gear, etc. This was in addition to our day pack. Each porter would carry TWO of these gear duffels, plus their own gear, plus a portion of the community gear. And, we found out later, no matter how far we traveled or how high we climbed on any given day, it was a point of honor for them to arrive at our destination before the clients. One thing we noticed almost immediately was there was a definite “servant – master” dynamic evident. This made us all extremely uncomfortable, especially when we saw other trekkers totally buy into that and treat their guides and porters with disrespect. In spite of all their hard work, the porters often were required to sleep outside. Our accommodations were definitely rustic, but still a far cry better than what the porters were given. Throughout the trip we tried to communicate how much we appreciated what they were doing for us, but given the language barrier it was hard to gauge our success. We regularly bought snacks and drinks for the crew, and at the very end during our farewell dinner, we made sure they were seated in the tea house so that we could serve them food and drinks. We never were able to find out what they earned for all their hard work, but we know that the tips they received from us were greater than the average annual income for a Nepali. As we were thanking them for all they did for us, they were thanking us for the privilege of schlepping our gear all over the Himalaya. The money they earn is generally used to support a large portion of their extended families. They definitely earned our admiration and respect.

One of our porters in particular, Santos, had a heartbreaking story. Throughout the trip, Santos was always upbeat, always had a smile, and even though we had a significant language barrier, liked to joke around with us. We found out after we’d parted ways and were back in Kathmandu that just days before our group arrived, his infant son had died. He apparently had contracted an illness that would have responded to the most basic of antibiotics. Since there were no antibiotics available in his village, his son died. Any one of us would have been immobilized with grief, or filled with anger at the unfairness…yet he did nothing to indicate he had just suffered this tremendous loss. It also saddened us to realize that regardless of his feelings, he could not pass up this financial opportunity. His work ethic and attitude, coming on the heels of that personal tragedy, left us all absolutely dumbfounded – and in awe.

Just a few days out of Lukla we stopped to spend the night in the village of Thame at about 14,000′. All afternoon, Cailie had been feeling a bit out of sorts. During the night she developed HAPE (high altitude pulmonary edema). HAPE is a life threatening condition where fluid collects in the lungs. The only treatment is to descend to lower altitude so that the fluid can reabsorb into the body. Fortunately, one of the pieces of gear that our porters carried was something called a Gamow bag (good job Mountain Monarch). All night long the porters took turns keeping the bag inflated, which made Cailie’s body think it was several thousand feet lower than our 14,000′. To be fair, it probably helped that they all had a massive crush on Cailie – but still…

A Gamow bag in action

The night in the Gamow bag improved Cailie’s condition. Still, the decision was made for Cailie and Rob to return to lower elevation for a bit, with the hopes of joining us later on the trek. So after a tearful goodbye, an assistant guide and porter walked Cailie and Rob back toward Lukla. We found out later that during the next night, Cailie’s symptoms returned. Fearing for her safety, they took turns carrying Cailie on their backs 3,000 vertical feet down a steep, rocky trail from Namche Bazaar to a lower elevation. Thanks to their efforts, Cailie and Rob made it safely back to Kathmandu and a full recovery. Once again we were in total awe and very grateful!

While most of our interactions were with the members of our group, we did meet some interesting people along the way. And while we came for the mountains, much of what we remember most fondly were the people we met along the way.

Next Post: The Place…Lots of photos and videos – the Himalayas were everything we hoped they’d be – and more.

Nepal 2012 – Genesis

On By KBGearDaveIn Backpacking/Hiking Stuff, Mountain Stuff1 Comment

In the Throne Room of the Mountain gods

The names and stories may be unfamiliar to many, but during my formative years they were the stuff of dreams. The mystery of Mallory and Irving lost on Everest, and Norgay and Hillary on the summit. Pete Schoening’s amazing ‘miracle belay’ during an avalanche high on K2 saving five other climbers from being swept off the mountain. Willi Unsoeld famously cutting off his own frostbitten and dead toes (and keeping them in a jar to show visitors). Jim Wickwire spending the night 450 feet below the summit of K2 – and surviving – after becoming the 1st American to summit! Just the names of the mountains evoke images of mystical and magical places. Chomolungma. Dhaulagiri. Nanga Parbat. Ama Dablam. Nanda Devi. Shishapangma. The Himalaya always seemed irresistably beautiful and appealing, forbidding and unattainable all at the same time.

 

In 2011, longtime friend and climbing partner Dan threw out the idea of spending a month in Nepal…in the Himalaya! He didn’t really expect any response, and rightly so! A month away from work? No way! Airfare to fly half way around the world? Commercial guides? I don’t think so. The Himalaya was…unattainable. Regular folks like us don’t take trips like that. But then one by one, the perceived obstacles disappeared. Turns out regular folks really can take a trip like this. By the time we boarded our flight in San Francisco in November 2012, our merry little band numbered eight. Sharon and I, Andrew, Cailie, Rob – friends from Flagstaff, Joel and Allison, and Dan Boss – our fearless leader.

Thank you Singapore Airlines for making twenty total hours in the air, if not enjoyable, at least tolerable. When we finally stepped out of the relative calm of Tribhuvan airport terminal into the chaos of Kathmandu, culture shock reached out and smacked us in the face. When absolutely everything you consider ‘normal’ goes away and the ground is figuratively shifting beneath your feet, it is hard to get your bearings.

Dan had made arrangements through Mountain Monarch. Anyone interested in trekking in Nepal has plenty of options. Many western companies feature highly paid western guides who contract with local companies to do all the leg work. It is possible, through these same companies, to have a somewhat sanitized trip – staying in tents and having western food throughout the trip. We opted to go directly with a local company and have a slightly more ‘immersive’ experience staying at the local tea houses. I’ll say right up front, we couldn’t have been happier with Mountain Monarch.

Our agenda had us spending two days in Kathmandu, and then flying to Lukla on our third day to start our trek. We spent our time seeing the sites, enjoying the food (momos), touring both buddhist and hindu sites, and prepping for three weeks on the trail.

Kathmandu was overwhelming, and choatic, and fascinating. Often we just found ourselves laughing as we tried to process the different things we were seeing. After two days, we were ready for the butt clenching ride through town back to the airport to begin the ‘real’ trip.

The flight to Lukla was everything everyone says it is. We caught our first views of the Himalaya. We survived the flight, met up with our porters and began our trek, but more on that in the next post.