Tapeats – Deer Creek Loop

In 2010 our family celebrated some major life events – a high school graduation, a major anniversary, a milestone birthday. We celebrated in true Flagstaff fashion with a river trip through the Grand Canyon. Because of their unique nature and amazing beauty, most trips take time to stop at Thunder River/Tapeats Creek and Deer Creek. Several years later we managed to snag a back country permit to hike down to those same iconic locations via the north rim. Alas, it was not to be. In a gross miscarriage of justice, we were denied the use of our permit when a government shutdown “closed” the Grand Canyon. Social justice warriors that we are, we set out to right the wrongs of gov’t shutdowns past.

So, years later we again managed to obtain a coveted back country permit and prepped for our return to the Canyon. Our plan had been for a group of six to make the journey. Instead, work, busy schedules and injury whittled that number down to just two – Dan and I. Quality over quantity I like to say. On a Friday afternoon in late October Dan and I arrived at a lovely little spot along the north rim to spend a relaxing evening before hitting the trail.

Next morning we headed down the Bill Hall trail under blue bird skies and perfect temperatures. While steep in places, this trail offers a relatively easy descent to the esplanade and points beyond.

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I’d read about it, but the esplanade is an amazing place. Relatively flat, it offers a welcome respite from down climbing. Plus the scenery along this stretch is nothing short of spectacular…slickrock, dramatic formations, canyons…the esplanade has it all.

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Beyond the esplanade we dropped into Surprise valley, eventually making our way past Thunder River to our camp at Upper Tapeats.

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After a long first day, we had scheduled a rare rest day at upper Tapeats. We’d toyed with the idea of doing some exploring, but ended up simply spending the day next to the creek. We chatted with each other and folks from a few different river trips. I made good progress on my current read, and then…just stared at the scenery. We did discover one small down side of being deep in the Canyon this time of year. The sun dropped behind the Canyon walls at about 3:00 pm. By 3:05 pm we busted out our puffies. By 6:30 pm with no moon it was completely dark. I read. We talked. We enjoyed the night sky and watched for shooting stars, but ultimately the combination of dark and cold made for some long -ish nights.

Day three was a leisurely stroll down to the River. Thanks to generous river folk, we were able to enjoy a malted beverage with dinner. Day four we picked our way along the route downriver to Deer Creek. The Patio and Deer Creek Narrows were as stunning as I remembered. Dan was appropriately impressed. We arrived early enough to have plenty of time for more rest and relaxation. Other than the big day down (and obviously what comes down must go up) we had more free time on this trip than any I can remember…maybe ever. Maybe its true that with age comes wisdom…or maybe not…I forget.

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While our permit allowed us another rest day at Deer Creek before our hike out, the long nights and a below freezing cold snap convinced us to hike out a day early. Temps in the low 30’s and blue bird skies made for a perfect day to regain the 5,200′ back to the north rim. We topped off our excellent adventure with the appropriate post hike beer and burger at the Cave Dweller lodge where a sign informed us “There are no caves at Cave Dwellers. No ferry at Lee’s Ferry and no lake at Jacob Lake – sorry for the confusion!” Many thanks to Dan for making the long trek out from MN to share some time in a lovely corner of the Canyon.

As always – if you have any questions about this – or any other trip. Leave a note in the comments section. You can always sign up below to receive email notifications whenever there is a new post. Seize the Carp!