June 26 – June 30, 2023

Sunday, June 25 (Day 96). We went into  Bakewell with the goal of running along the Monsal Trail. It was going to be an out and back on a ‘rails to trails’ segment. As we passed a car park enroute to the trailhead, we noticed a couple pinning numbers on their shirts. We learned that a local run was set to go off in twenty minutes. “You can still register if you fancy a go!” We did fancy! £5 and £2.50 secured our entry into the Bakewell Pudding Fell Run and Fun Run. When I completed my entry form, one volunteer noted my USA address. “Ooh,” he said, “Now we’re an international event!”

Moments later, 213 locals and one American set off to climb the ridge above Bakewell. It was 6 1/2 miles of rough (at times muddy) single-track through the woods, ridge running with expansive views, and even a stream crossing. Sharon’s run included many of the same features on a slightly smaller scale.

We loved it! It was extremely well organized – and extremely nonchalant. People were handing over their pound notes to enter minutes before the start of the race. Easy as you please. No T-Shirts or medals to finishers, just some tasty Bakewell tarts from the race sponsor. My only complaint? They had trophies for the top male and female runners. No recognition for being the top American finisher!

It was great fun and gave us an excuse to enjoy a Cornish pasty and the fruit of a local microbrew. The exercise and food coma also gave us an excuse to laze around the rest of the day.

Monday, June 26 (Day 97). During our stay in the Peak District, we very much enjoyed time away from the bikes. It was fun – and painful – using different muscle groups. Now however it was time to head back south in the direction of London.  The town of Derby lay in the right direction at an agreeable distance. For no other reason, we landed there at day’s end. It was nice enough with loads of  pleasant bits. Empty store fronts and “To Let” signs littered the main streets. Many of the folks out and about also had a ‘worn around the edges’ look. England is not all quaint “move set” villages. It is filled with real people, living in real cities, facing real challenges – just like people everywhere.

Tuesday, June 27 (Day 98). We set out to cover forty some miles today. We hadn’t gone half that, and we were looking to tap out. Cycling was lovely as ever. But, it was also a cold, moist day, with the wind coming from the wrong direction. Given our distance from London, and given that cycling into a city of twelve million is cycling suicide, we’ve planned to do the last bit by train. Knowing that we will at some point take that option, we see no need to flog ourselves. Here’s the funny thing – just when we had decided to cut short our day…England pulled in the welcome mat. There were no campgrounds nearby. OK! We looked at hotels, guiest houses, B&B’s – NO VACANCY!  We tried and exhausted countless options. By the time we found lodging, we had covered our forty miles, and ended up in Leicester.

We did have fun along the way.   

Wednesday, June 28 (Day 99). Leaving Leicester was a lengthy affair. We wound through back alleys, side roads, crossed parking lots and along sidewalks to avoid almost certain death on the car-centric city streets. In the city center, we ran into James and Sashi. In short order, they knew about our trip, and James was showing me holiday photos from a family visit in Antigua. Sashi was sharing with Sharon that he moved from Lisbon to Leicester from a desire for a larger Indian community. Cool guys and a fun chat.   

“Fool me once…” right? Since the Brits apparently can’t abide our spontaneous style of travel, we buckled and made plans. We left Leicester with reservations in place for a Bed and Breakfast near Long Buckby. I will grudgingly concede that it was nice to know where we’d be at day’s end.

From the center of town we were able to pick up a bike trail, then a network of quiet lanes and small villages. After a bit of a down day yesterday, this was just fun. 

Stanford Hall was built in 1690 for Sir Roger Cave. In the 1890’s, an early aviation pioneer named Percy Pilcher built gliders there. He also built a powered flying machine that many historians believe would have been capable of flight. Unfortunately Percy died in an accident beforehe could try it. Curious little bit of history. Another interesting feature of Stanford Hall, is that the River Avon flows through the property. The village of Stanford on Avon is 30-ish miles from the somewhat more well known Stratford upon Avon.

Outside the grocery store in Long Buckby we met the Librarian! She had toured years ago, so we started the conversation with cycling. We quickly moved to life in this lovely, bustling community. Budget constraints had the library slated for closure. Folks were not ready to let that happen. So currently, forty some volunteers run the library. City funds allow them to buy a few books and hire one half-time staff member. Sad, but also inspiring! Way to go Long Buckby. We would have loved to spend more time here, but our home for the evening was an old farmhouse a few miles outside of town. Peaceful and perfect!

Thursday, June 29 (Day 100). Today we found a campground just outside of Banbury. Why Banbury you ask? We found a train from Banbury to Heathrow Airport that allows bicycles and has room for ours. Thus, this will be our last day of touring! Bittersweet to be sure. We thoroughly enjoy life “behind bars“ and will miss our nomadic life. We are also very eager for time with family, friends and our next adventure. With all that in mind – today was the perfect “last” day. One last bit of dodgy route suggestions, beautiful countryside and, as always, amazing, friendly people. I think today I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking.

Rolling into the campground I ran into Cliff. He’s the third generation looking after these grounds. He said the campground was closed for the weekend for a large private party on Saturday night. Since we were just looking for one night, we were welcome to stay! Not only that, we were invited down to for a beer later. Turns out the private party was a 75th birthday bash for James, Cliff’s father-in-law. We actually met four generations and were made to feel part of the family.

Friday, June 30 (Day 101). After a short ride back into Banbury, we caught our train. A short time later, we were dropped off near the airport hotel. We quickly found bike boxes, settled in to relax, and planned our tourist campaign in London. One notable event today. Three miles from the hotel, my rear rack broke! I’d say almost perfect timing for a gear failure like that. Zip ties brought us home. I’ll take that as a sign that our trip is rightly over.

I’ll give some London details and a final wrap-up next week. But for now, this seems like a good place to pause. So until next week from the States, cheers from London!