May 14 – 20, 2023 (France)

Sunday, May 14 (Day 54). From 1309 to 1377 several popes moved their home from Rome to Avignon. This did not sit well with critics back in Italy who described Avignon as “Babylon”, as a place where the winter mistral winds blow bitterly, and as “a sewer where all the muck of the universe collects.” High praise indeed! It was also said that even the best of those popes were more concerned with power and earthly delights than in ministering to their earthly flock. Just one fascinating little morsel of history from this fascinating city.

Another Avignon fun fact: on Sunday almost everything is closed. With no baguettes or breakfast to be had, we crossed the Rhone and set out in search of food – and our next fascinating French town. Along the way, we crossed paths with two Austrian sisters. They were riding from their home on the way to complete the Camino de Santiago. Two years earlier the same trip had been cut short by an accident in Pamplona. The sisters and I laughed and talked. Meanwhile Sharon was sharing stories with a German couple on a two month trip…with their black lab! I understand people like their pets – but that is next level commitment. We have missed these interactions with other travelers, so this was a real treat.

Ever since our traumatic hail storm experience outside of Arles, we’ve been trying to run and hide from the rain. It caught up to us outside of Remoulins and tried to deliver another soaking. We were prepared this time. As soon as we realized what Rain was up to, we retreated to a comfy shelter! Score one for Dave and Sharon.

In Remoulins we heard about a unique bull fight scheduled to take place a few hours later. In this event, the matador doesn’t kill the bull. Rather, he attempts to grab tassels or balls affixed to the bulls horns. Sounds crazy! We were tempted, but we were hungry and tired and chose instead to head to camp. We treated ourselves to a tasty pizza at the campground restaurant. This was followed by a shower, stretching,  planning, relaxing, and chatting with family. It was a good day!

Monday, May 15 (Day 55). The Pont du Gard offers a master class in Roman engineering. In ancient times, a thirty-one mile long aquaduct supplied water to the ancient Roman city of Nemausus, now known as Nimes. The Pont du Gard (Gard River Bridge) is the most visible remaining segment. The level of precision they achieved, on such a grand scale, with ancient tools – it almost defies belief. It certainly challenges the arrogant belief that because we have smart phones and can post selfies on social media, we are so much smarter than people 2,000 years ago.

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Speaking of how smart we are…the story is told of a couple who rented a car in Las Vegas. They entered their destination in the GPS, and then blindly followed as the device took them farther and farther into the desert. Never questioning the computer’s guidance, they eventually got stuck crossing a sandy wash. Which is where searchers later recovered their bodies. That’s how computers are going to take over the world. No Terminators or nukes. They will simply foster total reliance (and trust) and then get us hopelessly lost.

I was reminded of this story as we once again made the mistake of blindly following Komoot (one of our map apps). It started by sending us down decent gravel roads along fields and past farms. OK. Then the roads got smaller and rougher. Can’t last long! We should have gotten suspicious when it directed us into a farmer’s barnyard where we received a hearty tongue lashing. We should have retreated, but you know the saying, if you find yourself in a hole – keep digging! At one point, we found ourselves dragging our bikes along rocky paths that would have made a mountain goat question his life choices. If I’m honest there might have been some thrown helmets and angry words as we questioned certain life choices. I believe the old saying is true. “Whatever doesn’t kill you can still suck!” No doubt Komoot (and Skynet) were mightily disappointed that we survived.

We, on the other hand, were quite happy to have survived and returned to the warm embrace of civiliation. We were happier still to find a well stocked grocery and a comfortable campground outside Quissac. Nothing like food, a shower, and protection from the wind to improve one’s outlook.

Tuesday, May 16 (Day 56).  We’ve been on the road now for eight weeks. It would be unrealistic spectacular all the time. So we are not at all surprised that the last few days have been nice, but in many ways, unspectacular. That changed today. From Quissac to Ganges, we were treated to a nicely paved old railroad line. Dramatic mountains loomed above as we rode through agreeably  picturesque villages. Leaving the rail line, we followed the Vie River before climbing onto a high plateau. We topped out at Mondardian with a storybook chateau perched high and master of all it surveyed.

The only blot on this otherwise spectacular day, was the presence of an angry headwind. Frequent gusts felt like someone pounding their fist on a table during an argument. It was wearying. It felt good to finally find some shelter at a campground near Blandas. Our neighbors, Jacques and Elsbeth were backpacking across this part of France. Our conversation with them brought the day to a perfect close.

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Wednesday, May 17 (Day 57). We awoke to the sound of wind tearing at the trees in our campground. It was the sad sound of another long day of battle with the elements. Then serendipity struck! It took such concentration to stay upright and moving forward, that we missed a turn. When we stopped to get our bearings in Le Caylar, we realized our mistake. At that precise moment, Hubert introduced himself. After only a brief conversation, he insisted we join him for lunch.

What followed could only be described as magical. With practiced ease, he plied us with chamomille apertif, salads, leftovers, bread, cheese, home made jams, wine. He shared details about his annual festival devoted to sharing the joys of “slow travel.” Every year people come to share their stories of moving slowly through the world, on foot, by bicycle, following flocks of sheep, or working and walking around their gardens. Only later did we find out that Hubert and his festival are quite famous. We were honored to have been the recipients of his generosity. And to think, if we hadn’t taken a wrong turn…

While we were with Hubert, we also made the decision to stop beating our heads against a brick wall. The wind wasn’t going to change – so we did. With Hubert’s help, we plotted a more southerly route to take advantage of the wind. We are so glad we did. Hubert sent us through beautiful villages and along a high ridge with expansive views in all directions. We coasted downhill for miles at a time. Four days of incessant wind had taken a physical and mental toll on us. Hubert and a tailwind were exactly what we needed. We ended the day in a quiet spot along the d’Orb River.

Thursday, May 18 (Day 58). Today was a big day. We’ve been making our way toward Toulouse with the goal of meeting with Anne and Marcellin. Our desired time frame meant that we needed to cover fifty miles. Once again an old railroad line made for easier cycling for much of the way. Tunnels smoothed out the hills, and the landscape protected us a bit from the wind (it found us again). One big climb out of the d’Orb River valley allowed us to coast down into the broad plain that lies between these mountains and the Pyrenees.

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Immediately upon arrival at camp, Jan and his wife from the Netherlands struck up a conversation. They have toured extensively, including a lengthy trip around the western states forty-three years ago. They adopted us and introduced us to some of their friends in the campground. Dinner, conversation, live music and good company. La Vie est belle.

Friday, May 19 (Day 59). We had already decided to take a train into Toulouse. Our next decision was where to catch the train. Straight south twelve miles to Lezignan-Corbieres, or twenty-four miles east-southeast to Carcassonne along the famous Canal du Midi. We chose Carcassonne…and we chose poorly. Light rain and, you guessed it, stiff headwinds made the journey a challege. And somehow, twenty-four miles became thirty-two by the time we arrived. Still, the Canal du Midi was interesting. Built in the 1600’s using 12,000 men with picks and shovels – it was an engineering marvel. It ultimately fulfilled a dream of the time to connect the Atlantic and the Mediterranean Sea.

After consulting with Ann, we found a place to spend the night in Carcassonne. This city is home to the best preserved and well known medieval fortified city in France. It is definitely worthy of a more thorough examination. Crossing the river on the way to the Aude gate, the view is absolutely stunning.

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Saturday, May 20 (Day 60). Another train day. Carcassonne to Toulouse. Toulouse to Brax-Leguevin. And there at the station was Anne, with a huge grin and la bise (the French double kiss).

It has been a long journey to get this point, and not just in distance. We met Ann and Marcellin one year ago on the island of Mljet in Croatia. We were just arriving, they were taking the ferry to the mainland. We talked for no more than ten minutes, but immediately recognized kindred spirits. Since we were traveling at roughly the same speed in roughly the same direction, we exchanged contact info and expected to meet again in a few days. Then Covid waylaid us, and our planned meet up never happened. We stayed in touch, however, and always hoped to reconnect. Today was the day!

Ann led us on a merry chase through the countryside to their home in Fonsorbe. While Marcellin was away attending an orienteering competition with their son and daughter, Ann was the perfect host. We ate. We talked. We learned about their ’round the world travels and life in France. Then we met Celine and Jean Bernard, Ann’s university friend and husband, down from Paris for a long weekend. They offered advice on “must see” places that could keep us occupied for months. It will be challege to cull the list to accomodate our remaining three weeks in France. We continued on to enjoy an afternoon and evening of food, laughter, and stimulating conversation. No traveler could hope for a more convivial setting.

This has been a week of mental and physical highs and lows. It certainly ended on a high note. After some more rest, we are looking forward to the exploring the “insiders” France laid for us. Until next week…STC!