Tag: cycling

Asia 2026 – The Road Less Traveled #1

On By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the RoadLeave a comment

Durango, Cambodia

Day #1 (Sunday – 12/28/2025): It seemed liked a good idea. Months ago, it seemed entirely reasonable to leave for a grand cycling adventure just three days after Christmas, and just two months after a lengthy bike trip in Europe. As it turns out, it’s been rather a lot to manage. Since returning from Europe we’ve wanted to spend time with family and friends here in Durango. It has been important to set aside time for exercise. There have been home and car repairs, as well as bicycles and gear to attend to. Unlike Europe, travel in Asia requires visas and preparation for border crossings. Speaking of border crossings, an active war zone continues to command our attention and actually dictated an earlier route change. Previously we’ve traveled with people we’ve met on the road. We are excited to be taking this trip with friends from Flagstaff, but that also requires coordination, and planning beyond our normal “no-plan plan.” To all this preparation, we added the happy chaos of multiple, large gatherings during Christmas with family and friends. Its been great fun. I wouldn’t have changed a thing. It has also been a bit exhausting.

But now the day has arrived. After final farewells, we will make our way to the airport and thirty-one hours of travel. Durango to Denver to San Francisco to Hong Kong to Phnom Penh. In general, our plan is to ride north to visit Angor Wat. We will then turn east, away from the conflict zone on the Thai border, through Cambodia to Vietnam. We intend to fly home from Hanoi in mid-March. Everything else in between is TBD.

Day #3??? (Tuesday – 12/30/2025): It is never ‘comfortable’ coiling my body into airline seats, and lengthy flights always involve a certain amount of sleep deprivation. Still, it amazes us how quick and easy it is to travel half way around the world. And apparently, time travel is also possible. We left Durango on Sunday, and only thirty-one hours later  landed in Phnom Penh on Tuesday! Somewhere along the way Monday went missing.

In spite of that significant loss, we did manage to negotiate connections and bureaucracy, with our bikes and gear, and arrived in Cambodia. One more place in the world Sharon and I never in our wildest dreams imagined we’d be visiting. After the usual formalities we had our bikes assembled and were on the road.

Although it was mid-day locally, our bodies and minds were several time zones away. We were eager to find our hotel and get some rest. As we made our way into the city of 2+ million people, Phnom Penh assaulted our senses! At first, rural agricultural smells combined with the odor of garbage and the fishy smell of the Bassac River. As we drew deeper into the cities’ embrace, masses of scooters and trucks added petroleum notes to the mix. They also added to the noise of construction, hawkers selling their wares, and countless smiling people shouting “Hellos!” The sights had us laughing, and our heads on a swivel. It is amazing what can transported on small motorcycles, especially when the “rules of the road” aren’t even a figment of anyone’s imagination. The only rule seemed to be don’t get hit. Beyond that, anything goes. We threw ourselves in with gusto.

At the Sim Boutique Hotel we showered, napped, and wandered out to explore. We took in the sights, tried mystery street food and a local beer. It was all fascinating, but our lack of sleep led us back to the hotel, and sweet, sweet, blessed sleep.

Day 4 (Wednesday – 12/31/2025): Imagine a person with a massive ego. A person who believes he is the smartest person in every room. A person who craves power, imagines enemies everywhere, and is surrounded by slavishly devoted followers willing to support and enable this person’s worst impulses. In Cambodia, that person was Pol Pot. Secret U.S. bombing of Cambodia during the Vietnam war enraged and disrupted people’s lives across the country. That ultimately helped Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge come to power. From 1975-1979, Pol Pot’s minions carried out the brutal murders of anyone who questioned his judgement, or were identified as an enemy of his vision for a perfect Cambodia. Eventually, one quarter of the population died in the “killing fields.”

We visited the infamous Choeung Ek killing field outside Phnom Penh. It was gut wrenching, and one more example of what happens when hatred of anyone deemed  “other” is fostered and festers.

The day started on a much happier note. Katy and Steve arrived around midnight. We met for breakfast and happily planned our day. What started as a sightseeing stroll ended with “Paul” carting us all over town in his tuk tuk. He showed us a side of Phnom Penh we would never have known to explore, and most certainly wouldn’t have experienced on our own. We visited the killing field, palaces, temples, and authentic restuarants serving up frog, octopus and peppers that melted my brain. We are grateful for that. The day ended on a sour note though. It appeared our new best friend Paul had taken advantage of our trust to do us wrong. It definitely left a bad taste, and we hate the take away lesson that we should be suspicious of people. It did not, however, ruin our day.

“I know! It’s so hard finding a decent duck!”
Rockin’ the Prue Leith glasses
Silk worms – not lunch
Under the colorful towel, she is working on intricate silk weaving

Day 5 (Thursday – 1/1/2026): Happy New Year! Although as I write these words, in Durango it is still early afternoon of New Year’s Eve. Here on the other side of the International Date Line, 2026 is off to a good start.

After taking full advantage of our hotel’s breakfast, we hit the mean streets of Phnom Penh. With an early start, we managed to get ahead of some of the traffic and high temps. The countryside north of town was much more sedate. Even on the busier roads, drivers seemed deferential to two wheeled vehicles.

Although different from the big city, the sights, sounds and smells continued their assault. Very little seemed ‘normal’ to our cultural norms and expectations. It was fascinating to observe differences, and to ponder the factors leading to different choices and norms. One thing was universal though. All day long, hundreds of times, over and over we were greeted with a joyful “Hellooo!”, usually accompanied by joy-filled, beautiful smiles. (Is there really another kind?”). It just never got old. It aso kept a near permanent grin on my face.

Forty miles after setting out we arrived in Ph’av. Camping is not really an option in Cambodia, so we took the scary step of leaving our camping gear behind. We are 100% reliant on finding guest houses. Here in Ph’av – no problem. We easily found some lovely rooms. Sixteen dollars got us a clean, spacious room, comfy beds, AC, and a cold shower. Perfect.

Later we joined the throngs of locals (not a tourist in sight) perusing the food stalls. I found a tasty Num Pao – a savory dumpling type thing. Sharon, Katy and Steve chose rice dishes. I think it may take us some time to get comfortable with our food options.

Ph’av nightlife

Day 6 (Friday – 1/2/2026): Kickstands up at 6:50am today. One day on the road and already the weather is a force that must be reckoned with. It was already in the mid 70’s (on the way to 90+) when we set out. The first fifteen miles were probably the most interesting as we followed back roads. For a time we were part of a mass migration of school kids on scooters making their way to class. We saw similar scenes repeated throughout the day.

With headwinds and heat, the day grew long. It was late afternoon when we fell into the cool embrace of air conditioned rooms at the Glorious Hotel. It was aptly named. Unfortunately, we had little energy to enjoy the exercise room, or the pool, or any other amenities. We were content with the shower and the bed.

Day 7 (Saturday – 1/3/2026):   We’re starting to get the hang of this. Another early start. We happily accepted the gift of a tailwind for part of the day. Plenty of stops to cool off in the shade with cold drinks. For me – getting soaked whenever possible.

It took some coaxing, but she got in the spirit!

There was a subtle shift in the landscape today. Hard to really pin it down. More trees perhaps? Once again, no shortage of interesting things to see.

Fascinating process of making ambok… toasted, pulverized, and sifted rice plants.

We were quite happy to arrive at Kampong Kdei. It was another long day, and while I think we’re adapting well to the heat, it still takes its toll. After cooling off a bit, we wandered the street stalls in search of food. Tasty num pao and more rice dishes hit the spot. We had a great time talking to Nye who has just finished 12th grade. His goal is university in Phnom Penh to study to be a doctor. If he achieves his goal (I believe he will) he stands to earn $400-800/month. Good luck Nye.

Sharon, Nye and Katy

A few thoughts as this week winds to a close. -Many places we visit have looked remarkably similar to Wisconsin, or places out West. Not once has that thought occurred to us here. We wanted different – we got it!

-People here are entrepreneurs. The entire distance we’ve traveled from Phnom Penh has been like one long, 3rd world version of Milton Avenue in Flagstaff. Literally everyone is selling something. There are stands and stalls everywhere! Everyone, it seems has a side hustle or is engaged in commerce. At the same time, everyone is chill. No hawking. No high pressure sales tactics. Cool.

-Cambodia is a developing country. As in many such countries, paying money for garbage disposal is a luxury. As such, garbage is obvious and ubiquitous. Disappointing for sure, but understandable.

-The smiles! Oh, the beautiful, joy-filled smiles! And “hello” from almost everyone we pass. How can you not fall in love with a country filled with people like this?

So on that happy note, I will conclude this post. Until next week, Seize the Carp!

Europe 2025 – Back Behind Bars #11

On By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road5 Comments

Switzerland, Durango

Day 63: Sunday (10/12/2025). Chris and Patricia took seriously their responsibility to show us only the very best that Swizerland has to offer. Truth is – we didn’t know what we didn’t know. They could have taken us anywhere and we would have been happy.

Ultimately we ended up at the Diemtigtal Nature preserve nestled next to a mountain called Wiriehorn. This was to be no mere hike however. We started with a chairlift ride part of the way up the mountain. We proceeded to hike completely around the mountain. It was a grey, dismal day in Spietz. Here in the mountains, above the clouds, we reveled in bright sunshine. 

Chris – 34 going on 14.

Back at the chairlift, we enjoyed conversation, cards and adult beverages. Fat tire rental scooters brought us quickly back to the bottom of the hill. Later we met back at the house for the evening ritual of a shared dinner and conversation with the flat mates. As we looked across at the countless peaks of the Alps, I asked if Gerhard had climbed many of the mountains. “Every one you can see!” was the answer! That included the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. Especially impressive considering the “modern” equipment he would have used back in the day.

Day 64: Monday (10/13/2025). Another day – another hike. From the house it again seemed unlikely that we’d see blue skies anywhere. And yet again, our hosts had a trick up their sleeve. We drove up to the village of Beatenburg on the other side of the lake. From there, we hiked farther up – and through – the thick layer of clouds blanketing the valleys. It was another in a long string of spectacular days.  

With all that we’ve seen in Switzerland these last ten days, it was hard to imagine finding anything better. And yet…we continued to climb until a sea of clouds below us filled the valleys and stretched as far as we could see in all directions. To the south the Alps spread from horizon to horizon.

Alpine Ibex were hunted to near extinction in these parts. Starting in 1906, efforts were made to bring them back from the brink. If our experience proves anything, those efforts have been successful.

Back into the soup. Last view of the big peaks.

Our long, last day in the mountains concluded with our home made pizza, apple pie, a Swiss dessert called vermicelles, and home made liqueur. Fun stuff.   

Day 65: Tuesday (10/14/2025). This is the beginning of the end. In two days we take to the friendly skies from Zurich. Today a train will  take us on the next to last leg of our journey home. 

We did not waste our final morning in Spiez. As has been our custom, we first enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. Then we all wandered down to the lake to witness Patricia’s daily routine. Whenever possible, she starts the day with a swim. Water temps in the Thunersee this morning were a balmy 52 degrees. Air temperature – the same! Chris and a few other hardy folks joined her. Apparently there are health benefits. I’m sure it was “refreshing.” I was happy to count myself among the spectators.

We made a quick stop at a local cheese shop, then booked passage to Zurich at the local station. As our prepared to leave, we bid our friends a sad “auf wiedersehen.” This is now the third time we have reconnected and been able to spend time with cyclists met on previous trips. It is hard to fathom the almost infinite number of random decisions and choices that somehow led to Sharon, me, Chris and Patricia crossing paths on that particular quay, in that city in Turkey, on that exact moment. We consider ourselves incredibly blessed to have friends like Chris and Patricia in Switzerland, and so many others around the globe. I’m sure I’ve shared this elsewhere, but I love the comment from Tim Cahill. “A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”

Our arrival in Zurich and bike ride to the hotel were mostly unremarkable. What does merit a remark is Switzerland’s amazing public transport. Our train ride could not have been easier, or more comfortable. In Zurich especially, we were amazed by the masses who rode their bikes to the station en route to other destinations. Look at the picture below. Imagine the gridlock on the streets and the parking required if all these people were driving cars and trucks instead of bikes.

Commuter parking at the downtown Zurich train station.

Day 66: Wednesday (10/15/2025). Any flight home from anywhere in the world requires boxes for our bikes, and boxes for our clothes and camping gear. It is often a logistical challenge getting boxes, bikes, gear and ourselves to the airport. Fortunately there was a store selling bike boxes in the airport right next to our check-in gate. I took a quick ride to the airport early in the morning to check the route and verify that boxes would be available. All good on that front. We then made the rounds of local businesses trying to find something for our gear. No joy! Eventually I rode to a self-storage company to buy suitable boxes.

With those details settled, we rode the city tram downtown. When in Rome, right? We wandered the streets, poked around in a museum, and did all manner of touristy things for the rest of the day. It was pleasant enough, but the horses smell the barn. This close to departure, we’re now ready to just be on our way.  

Day 67-68: Thursday/Friday (10/16-17/2025). We used our headlights for the first and only time on this trip. Sharon indulged my anxious desire to get to the airport super early. Predictably, everything went smoothly so we didn’t need the extra time. Still, it was nice not to be rushed. As has often been the case when we contemplate traveling twenty-four (plus) hours to get home, the thought of it was worse than the reality. The airlines were efficient. People, for the most part, were friendly and chill. And when we think about it for more than a second, the whole process is comically easy. So it was that in the wee hours of Friday morning we set foot in Durango and called this trip complete!

Postscript

The numbers: On this trip we cycled 1,600 human powered miles in 68 days. In Poland, Austria and Switzerland we used buses and trains to travel an additional 550 miles. Interestingly, in the last two weeks, we cycled less than 100 miles. We stayed in a relatively small area of Switzerland, and rather than cycling, we spent most days hiking. We tallied some fifty miles walking in the Alps. We split almost 50/50 between camping and staying in hostels, guest houses, and hotels. Uncharacteristically, most of our camping was in actual campgrounds. We only wild camped two nights. From Helsinki to Zurich, we passed through ten different countries. In the last few years, not counting the U.S., we have now cycled in 25 different countries.

Gear: No flat tires!! That might be a record! In February of this year I took possession of a new bicycle. It was built just for me by Eric Tomczak of Myth cycles right here in Durango. As expected, the fit was perfect. The pinion gearing and belt drive performed flawlessly. And best of all – no wobble from the front end. Last summer we replaced our aging REI Halfdome Plus 2 tent with their updated version. My concerns about durability were misplaced. It is holding up well, weighs less and continues to keep us dry. Couldn’t ask for more.

Thumbs Down on Old Town: The “Old Town” of many European cities is generally the original town site now surrounded by the modern city. Centuries old buildings rich with history and visually appealing often lie within ancient fortified walls. We usually made a point of visiting. We found that “free” historic walking tours were a great value. But we’re done now. We have grown tired of being part of the shoulder to shoulder mass of tourists shuffling along the streets. In many (most?) places, the history is a thin veneer, the beauty only skin deep. Inside those historic buildings one can browse the likes Versace, Prada, Rolex, Gucci, Hermes, etc. Short term rentals dominate the upper floors. We no longer wish to be part of the tourist “problem” plaguing so many areas.

People: Its always about the people! There are many appealing aspects about bike touring. Bikes offer the perfect pace to enjoy natural beauty as well as the towns and village we pass through. We love the physical exertion required, and seeing what our bodies are capable of doing. We love the simplicity of a minimalist lifestyle. But at the end of the day, it is always about the people. From all of our trips, our favorite memories and the stories we tell are about people we’ve met and friends we’ve made.

Now we are back home in Durango, blessed to be surrounded by family, friends and the mountains of Colorado. Thanks for coming along on this journey. Until we hit the road again (teaser: January in Vietnam) get out there and Seize the Carp!

Europe 2025 – Back Behind Bars #1

On By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road3 Comments

Durango to Helsinki

August 7, 2025: Our last bike trip across the pond is already two years in the rear view mirror. It has been almost a year since our epic “friends” kayak trip in Alaska and my little solo bike ride into Canada. For people with itchy feet (or wheels), a year is a very long time off our bikes. That’s not to say we haven’t enjoyed or made good use of the hiatus. In the last year, the family gathered in Florida to say good-bye to Sharon’s father. We welcomed Ethan (the last AZ holdout) to Durango and the warm embrace of the rest of his family in Colorado. We made our annual pilgrimage(s) to the fabled land of the Hodag so two small humans could spend time with two great grandmas and other extended family, as well as all that the Northwoods has to offer.

We’ve enjoyed getting to know our new home of Durango. Spending “everyday” time with family has been precious. We’ve developed a wonderful circle of new friends. And let’s face it, SW Colorado has plenty to offer salve for “itchy feet.”

But salve or no, wanderlust has once again spurred us to action. Flights have been booked. Possible routes have been explored. Gear and clothing have been pondered, weighed, and debated. Choices have been made, and ultimately, clothing and gear has been packed or set aside. Bikes are all snug in their boxy beds. All that awaits is our departure two days hence. In the meantime, we will seize the last moments with family and friends before our extended absence.

So, “Where to this time?” you may ask. Once  again we have heard the siren call of the far north, to Helsinki, Finland. Now you may ask, “Why Helsinki?” Finland consistently ranks as one of the happiest countries in the world, so there’s that. It shares the same line of latitude as Anchorage, Alaska, so for the heat averse among us (me) it offers a temperate climate. Ultimately, we were drawn to a part of Europe we had not seen before, and the Fare Queen found reasonably priced tickets to Helsinki –  so why not? Our plan (OK – general idea) is to get ourselves unlagged and sorted, leave Finland and bike through Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Slovakia, Austria, Germany, and eventually Switzerland to meet our friends Chris and Patricia. We spent six weeks cycling with them through Turkey and very much look forward to reconnecting.

As always, the exact details of the trip remain “fluid'”. Our mental and physical status, weather, terrain, interactions with locals, unexpected opportunities, and often, pure chance, dictate our day to day itinerary (aka – the “no plan” plan). As always, we are very much looking forward to our immersion in the sights, sounds, smells, food, people, and landscape of this new (to us) part of the world. We look forward to taking you along with us on the journey.

 August 9, 2025…Departure Day.

“Parting is such sweet sorrow that I shall say goodnight till it be morrow.”

Since moving to Durango just over a year ago we have become part of the everyday life of Aaron, Vanessa and our grandkids. And now with Ethan living with us, one might think that such familiarity would make a three month absence easier to contemplate. Not so. In addition to all the packing and countless details that needed attending to, we crammed us much family time as we could into the week prior to departure.  

What a time we live in. I am amazed at how easily we can find ourselves across the globe. No walking behind oxen and wagons across prairies for months. No fraught voyages on sketchy boats across wild oceans. Our “voyage” was fast, comfortable, and efficient. The only hardship we endured was enduring an overwhelmed mother entirely unable to reign in her spawn or comfort a screaming baby (all night long). Even though we were deprived of sleep, I wouldn’t wish her experience on anyone.

And so it was that we arrived bleary-eyed and droopy-tailed, somewhat less than ready to face the challenges of the day. Still, we got the bikes and gear sorted and headed into the unknown.

Kiri’s “lovey” Peter has traveled with us around the world. I think you can sense his excitement for this trip as well. 
Helsinki, the land of a thousand bike paths. Twelve miles from the airport to downtown all on bike paths. Well done!

Our excitement at being in a new country and back on our bikes was dampened by lack of sleep. After a pleasant ride from the airport into the downtown area, neither of us could work up much enthusiasm for the usual touristy things. If I’m honest, we were having a hard time working up enthusiasm to hold a simple thought in our heads. Twenty-eight to thirty sleepless hours had taken their toll. We walked around the harbor area for a bit, but finally gave in and returned to our hotel – and blessed sleep!

And so begins another chapter of seizing the carp! By next week, hopefully, we’ll be well rested and will have plenty of adventures to share. Until then – STC!! (Seize the Carp!)

PS: If you’d like to follow our trip, you can sign up to receive an email whenever I update the blog. If you’d like less of Dave’s “blah, blah, blah” Sharon is also posting on an app called Polarsteps. It shows our location on a map, plus has pictures and a brief description of what we’re doing. Download the app and search for “Sharon Neubauer Moore” and request to follow her. As Kiri likes to say, “Easy, peasy, lemon squeezey”.

Life Behind Bars #14

On By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road4 Comments

June 11 – 17, 2023

Sunday, June 11 (Day 82). After the Eiffel tower, Mont-Saint-Michel is the most visited site in France. As a child I recall being amazed by pictures of this place in National Geographic. Today, we made the short ride from Avranches to visit for ourselves. From any distance, from any angle, it is visually stunning.

The story goes that in the early 900’s the Bishop of Avranche had a vision. He dreamed of a church on what was then just a rocky outcrop. Clearly, people got on board with the idea. Over centuries they constructed the magnificent structures that are Mont-Saint-Michel today. As with so much of antiquity, it is  hard to fathom what they accomplished without modern tools.

After getting situated at the campground, we rode out to get a closer look. We quickly realized that while it is truly stunning from the outside, inside every square inch was given over to tourism and tourists. I understand it. I realize we were not “stuck in traffic” – we were  traffic. As evidenced by the pictures, we joined the throngs of selfie taking tourists. Still, we quickly tired of  shuffling along with the masses, shoulder to shoulder in the narrow streets. We didn’t stay long. 

Back in the campground, we started chatting with our neighbor. Mark was a week into a solo, month long journey around France. Given his current trip, it was no surprise to find that from their base near London, he and his family had seen quite a bit of the world. As usual, we enjoyed sharing stories about travel and just – life. We peppered him with questions about his homeland in anticipation of our visit. He graciously offered loads of useful info.

Mark from Richmond. Home of Ted Lasso’s AFC Richmond. Real town – fictitious team.

Monday, June 12 (Day 83). On this flat stretch of coast, the lines between ocean and land were a bit blurred. Sky and ocean were the same gray. With the tide out, water was barely visible across vast mudflats. It was hard to say where “ocean” began and land ended. Even the headwinds seemed equal parts air and water.

“Low Tide”

We made quick work of the thirty miles to Saint-Malo. The weather cleared slightly and revealed this to be a perfect place to spend our last day in France. We got settled at the city campground and went for a walk. We found World War fortifications, ancient castles, and beautiful harbors. Our exploration built a powerful thirst, and – what are the chances? – we found someone selling beer and cider. From our comfy perch at the Cafe Cancalais, we watch life pass by on the street and out in the harbor.  

Back in camp as the skyline disappeared in fog, Mark appeared out of the mist. He came bearing gifts of local fermented cider. What better excuse to stay up later than planned? We learned about house swapping, honeymoon hiking in Bolivia, and the story behind getting a £200/night penthouse suite in Japan for £20. Cheers Mark. Safe travels. Hope to see you in Flagstaff!

Tuesday, June 13 (Day 84). Saint Malo was founded in the 1st century by Celtic tribesmen. Then the Romans took their turn. Much later, it became the  famous (infamous?) home to a fleet of corsairs – the French King’s private pirates. These pirates preyed on commercial shipping and brought tremendous wealth into  Saint Malo. During WWII, allies believed the Nazis had stockpiled war material inside the city walls. Thus, eighty percent of the city was destroyed by aerial and naval bombardment. After the war, it was decided to meticulously rebuild the city as it had  been – in all its medieval glory. That is the city visitors see today…well almost. In addition to the expensive handbags, jewelry, and art similar to what may have been available 400 years ago, today you can also find all manner of cheesy tourist tat.

After a turn around the old city, we settled in at a prime stretch of beach. Until it was time to board the ferry, we people watched. We reminisced about our trip so far. We dared to think ahead to a time off the bikes. Finally it was time to leave. We found our place on board and watched as France faded from view. Au revoir France – it has been a pleasure getting to know you.  

Au revoir France

Wednesday, June 14 (Day 85). We arrived in Portsmouth fully rested, ready to embrance another new country.

Welcome to England

Since arriving, we’ve been almost  overwhelmed by friendly, helpful souls. The gentleman at the terminal entrance offered detailed route instructions. Minutes later a young lady, clearly on her way somewhere else, turned her bike around to make sure we knew where we were going. She arrived seconds before another gentleman asked if we needed guidance. Having won the right to assist by her earlier arrival, she went completely out of her way to lead us along slightly confusing bikepaths. Once we were in the clear, she wished us well and pedaled off. Another woman started chatting at a crosswalk. A lifetime ago she had cycle toured and was keen to share, and also learn about our trip. And so it went all day. Wonderful chats with random people whenever we stopped. We did not realize how much we’ve missed these interactions and conversations over the past three months. Except for a few notable exceptions, the language barrier has kept us rather isolated.

A bishop’s home from 1100’s
On the streets of Winchester. Brilliant musician with an interesting story.

Mark had prepared us for camping in the UK. Still, it was a shock. Wild camping, while always possible, is not allowed. Campgrounds are fewer, farther between, and much more expensive than on the Continent. So while the campground outside of Winchester was very nice, 33£ for a patch of grass was a bit of a shock.

Thursday, June 15 (Day 86). Today we experienced the England TV shows and movies had prepared us to believe we would find.

Early 1800’s church cemetery
The challenge of two way traffic on single width country lanes
English icons: Thatch roof cottage and (still working) pay phone

Hills and headwinds made the ride today a challenge, especially to legs grown accustomed to the flat coast of northern France. We loved it. This country seems purpose built for cyclists. Beautiful countryside, streams, and charming villages were a joy to ride through. By far the highlight came later. Rupert and Rosie struck up a conversation while we were cooking dinner. Rupert had, among other things, cycle toured through the Himalayas and India. How is that even possible? He downplayed his epic trips with typical English understatement. Conversation wandered far and wide and too quickly time slipped away. As night settled they had a long walk home, and we needed to be off to bed.

Rosie and Rupert

Friday, June 16 (Day 87).

The earth had donned her mantle of brightest green; and shed her richest perfumes abroad. It was the prime and vigour of the year; all things were glad and flourishing.

Charles Dickens – Oliver Twist

Mr. Dickens perfectly described this portion of southern England. Not surprising, given that he was born in Portsmouth where our journey began.

Our arrival here coincided with a heat wave. Because of the heat we’d both run out of water earlier. Passing through town, I happened upon Julian and inquired if he could spare some water for a thirsty cyclist. As he led me into his yard, he asked with a grin, “Fancy some gin?” Actually, no – but thanks for asking. Instead, he filled my bottle with ice cold water from his fridge. Perfection! He insisted I drink up, then refilled the bottle. Then, in addition to the gift of a nice chat, he sent me on my way with two bottles of beer. Thank you Julian!

Julian and friends
Julian’s Razor Back Amber Ale paired perfectly with my Mark and Spenser’s spaghetti

Saturday, June 17 (Day 88). You may have heard of Oxford University? It’s this little school that’s been around officially since 1214 (although teaching began in 1096). Yes, you read that right. Over 800 years ago, scholars began gathering in this little English town to impart knowledge. Richard spent two hours sharing stories from the fascinating history surrounding this university. Events and characters include bishops being burned alive, Bloody Mary, Henry the 8th, King James of biblical fame, Lawrence of Arabia, C.S. Lewis, J.R.R Tolkien, English Prime Ministers, Einstein, and even Hogwarts. Over a pint at a 16th century pub, we decided to extend our stay. That allowed us to spend the afternoon wandering, gawking, and soaking in the ambience.

Along the Thames
punting on the River Cherwell
16th century pub. Also well known from the Inspector Morse tv series
The actual blackboard with Einstein’s explanation of a portion of his theory of relativity as a guest lecturer at Oxford. If my math is correct, what he actually proved is that 1+1 = 3.
One of the uni’s original purpose built structures. More famously, several scenes from Harry Potter were filmed here.

Thus ends another week “behind bars” filled with lovely people and places. We now face the daunting task of decided how best to fill our last two weeks. Check in next Sunday to see what we chose. Until then, STC!

Life Behind Bars #12

On By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road2 Comments

May 28 – June 3, 2023

Sunday, May 28 (Day 68).  The poem “The Road Not Taken” has always resonated with me. Like many others, I thought it celebrated those who took the “road less traveled” and forged their own path through life. Nope! Turned out Frost was poking fun at a friend who could never decide which path to take on their hikes, then second-guessed his choice. I confess I felt a little crushed when I found out.

However, reading it as the author intended, I did find a little nugget. Having made the choice to follow one path, the narrator said, “Oh, I kept the first for another day! Yet knowing how way leads on to way, I doubted if I should ever come back.” That phrase has always struck me. Every day, we make choices between roads that “equally lay.”  Choosing to travel one road means choosing not to travel another equally interesting road. And “Knowing how way leads on to way, I doubt that I shall ever come back.”  It is highly unlikely we will ever pass this way again. So maybe, Frost’s message to his friend, and to us, was this…don’t regret roads you can not or have not taken. Celebrate the road road you’re on.  

With that thought in mind, we celebrated the remainder of our rest day in La Rochelle. Like so much of Europe, a mix of  ancient and modern exists side by side.

La Rochelle graffiti festival

We did not regret the roads our train bypassed on the way to Tours. Within minutes of our 9:30pm arrival, we already felt a fondness for this new place. After a short ride, our bikes and bags were safely stowed. From our third floor perch, we watched night settle over the city.

Tours as night falls

Monday, May 29 (Day 69). Tours was meant to be just a jumping off point for a trip up the Loire River valley. The city wouldn’t let us leave. First, it was “to die for” items from a boulangerie / patisserie to supplement our usual breakfast of yogurt. Then, it was a hidden gem of a botanical garden, followed by cool neighborhoods and yet another stunning church. Lacking the tourist masses, Tours offered a comfortable, welcoming vibe that made us reluctant to move on.

But move on we did. The broad Loire River valley is famous for its magnificent chateaux. The wealth required to build and maintain these mansions is beyond comprehension. I think these folks were not just among the “1%” of their day. They may have been the original 1/10 of 1% -ers. We followed the river and rode the countryside to Chaumont-sur-Loire with plans to visit the Chateau Chaumont on Tuesday.

Chateau Amboise

Passing through Amboise, we met a cycling family from Canada with two young children. We were fortunate to meet this impressive family again in the campground. Since I’m on a poetry kick this week, I’ll share some Robert Service.

There’s a race of men that don’t fit in, A race that can’t stay still; So they break the hearts of kith and kin and they roam the world at will. They range the field and they rove the flood, and they climb the mountain’s crest; Theirs is the curse of the gypsy blood, And they don’t know how to rest.

Robert Service

I thought of this poem after talking to Andres (Italian and Costa Rican) and Eve Marie (French Canadian). They have seriously roamed the world at will, and definitely have “the curse of the gypsy blood.” They have been everywhere! Recently their travels have included Dahlia (8) and Diego (2). Impressively, Dahlia already knows four languages and is more than holding her own bicycling on this family outing. We never cease being amazed at the lifestyle some people choose. Impressive!

Eve Marie, Diego, Dahlia. Andres

Tuesday, May 30 (Day 70). Perhaps the most famous owner of the Chateau Chaumont was Catherine de Medici – Queen of France from 1547 to 1559. Nostradamus was one of her guests at this lavish estate. In an interesting twist, after the death of her husband, the King, Catherine forced his mistress to give her the Chateau de Chenonceau. The mistress had received that chateau as gift from Catherine’s husband. In exchange, the mistress received the Chateau Chaumont. You can’t make this stuff up. Some version of this Chateau has perched on this hilltop for 1,000 years.

Chateau Chaumont

As impressive as it was, we both were a bit put off. It is hard to appreciate the opulence and lavish lifestyle, given the abject poverty experienced by so many who lived in the Chateau’s shadow. It didn’t help that at one point, one of the owners moved 155 people from their homes near the chateau. He wanted to indulge his fantasy of having a sprawling English style garden. Those “nobodies” were simply in the way. So, all very interesting, but we decided one chateau was enough. 

Wednesday, May 31 (Day 71).

Loire River campground
Andres and Diego hitting the road

In the last two and a half months, The thesaurus has been given a workout. I continue to run out of adjectives to describe our experience. You might not know it from many of our pictures, but not every day is filled with “stunning” or “magnificent!” Some days are just “nice” or “pleasant.” Today was such a day. We left the Loire River and made our way generally north. We enjoyed the scenery. We enjoyed people watching in the small towns and villages along the way. We enjoyed cycling over hills, through valleys, and along broad river bottoms.  It was all very “nice.” We’re OK with that.

“Nice”

When we rolled into our home for the evening, Robert and Christina from Belgium were among the handful of people in the campground. We chatted long enough to feel comfortable asking to cool our beer in their freezer while we prepped dinner. To our surprise and delight, Robert came over to share some of their dinner with us. We feasted on delicious chicken, potatoes, and mushrooms. What a treat! And what a treat to wash it all down with icy cold Belgian beer. How appropriate.   

Christina and Robert

Thursday, June 1 (Day 72). Today was a repeat of yesterday. Rolling hills, forests, and open countryside. We started a bit earlier than has been our habit, and covered twenty miles by 10:30am. Other than a mid-morning food stop, we kept pushing all day with our eyes on the clock. We were on a mission…to find reliable wifi.

A Roman bridge – more “nice”

For Flagstaff residents, 6:00am, June 1st has almost mythic status. All across town, people will rise early and sit with fingers hovering over keyboards, waiting for the clock to tick over to exactly 6:00am. At that precise moment, registration opens for the Imogene Pass Run. After a few years absence, we are resuming our annual pilgrimage to the land of majestic vistas and soul-crushing uphills. We checked and double-checked the time difference. At precisely 2:00pm, we were perched in a Super U grocery store poaching their wifi. By 6:13am, every one of the 1,500 spots had been taken. Happily, two of those spots belonged to us.

Countdown
Imogene registration success!

Snagging a coveted Imogene entry is excitement enough for one day. And, given that we’d already pushed hard for fifty miles, there was nothing left to do but secure a place in the local municipal campground. La Vie est Belle!

Friday, June 2 (Day 73). Definition: Hard Date. A fixed point in space and time that demands our presence at said point. We don’t like hard dates. Exhibit A. Several  days ago we contacted a Warmshower host in Caen. Can he host us? Yes, but only Saturday and Sunday nights. A few days ago, that sounded fine. Suddenly, we had a hard date. We woke with the daunting prospect of two more fifty mile days against strong headwinds. This after already riding two long days against persistent headwinds. Making the decision to pass on the Warmshower opportunity was like flipping a switch. Suddenly a great weight had been lifted. We relaxed and began truly enjoying the day.

Based on the suggestion of a local cyclist, we took a longer, more picturesque route. We explored small villages. And even though we had set our sights on a town down the road, St Leonard du Bois seduced us with one of the more lovely settings for a campground.  Be gone Evil Hard Dates!

Saturday, June 3 (Day 74). During our (OK, mostly Sharon’s) evening ritual of plotting a route, we hit a snag. Routes from here to Caen seem to be either direct and busy, or scenic and much farther. Remember the ticking clock? New plan. We spent the morning up the road in the lovely village of Saint-Ceneri-le-Gerei.

Next stop Alencon, and a train to Caen. I want to indulge my history passion, and what better place than the Normandy coast around the anniversary of D-Day. We want time to do justice in recalling the significant events that took place in this region. That was brought painfully home when we stopped by the Chateau Alencon. During WWII, the Chateau was used by the Gestapo as a place to store and torture members of the French resistance. These, and similar events ought not be forgotten.

Chateau Alencon

These ancient buildings are just the visible reminders of times past. Real history is the stories of real people. People who lived, dreamed, strove, suffered, succeeded, and eventually passed into history. We are very much looking forward to learning more about the people and events in Normandy. Until next week…STC!

Life Behind (handle) Bars #11

On By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road5 Comments

May 21 – 27, 2023

Sunday, May 21 (Day 61). After twelve straight days of cycling, today was a much appreciated day of rest. Anne, Sharon and I each spent time doing our own thing. Then, we spent hours talking, sharing stories, and learning more about this fascinating couple. A decade ago, while their children were still young, Anne and Marcellin took a year sabbatical to travel around the world…literally around the world! They used public transport in each of the countries they visited. Their home is filled with intriguing photos from their journey. Anne even wrote a book about their adventure, which, alas, is in French. Fortunately, we had the author all to ourselves to hear about that trip, and many of their other travels first hand.

After talking to Anne and Marcellin, and sharing some of our own stories – it struck me. In the last few years we’ve met dozens of cyclists who have traveled to the corners of the globe. Missing from all their stories was any mention of dangerous or scary encounters. Instead, every traveler has their favorite stories about gifts of food and drink, invites into people’s homes, help with problems, and countless other acts of kindness and generosity. We can add our own experiences to the list. These are not fools unconcerned about safety, or Pollyanas blindly wishing away danger. From the “safety” of the living room, too many believe the worst about the world. I believe these collective experiences prove Aldous Huxley’s observation, “To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.” And from Shirley Maclaine, “Fear makes strangers of those who would be friends.” I’ll let you draw your own conclusions. These are just a few random thoughts from a former strangers house in the south of France.  

Monday, May 22 (Day 62). Being Monday, our world traveler friends had more mundane travel to accomplish. Anne to her high school teaching job and Marcellin to his engineering job with Airbus. We chose to travel on the #365 bus into Toulouse with a list of sights to see. They were worth seeing. The Garonne river front. A thousand year old altar in an even older church. The depiction on an altar of the bull that dragged an early martyr to his death. The street also named after that same bull. Narrow streets. Grand squares and promenades.

500 year old Pont Neuf (new bridge)
Rue de Taur (Bull Street)
turn on your sound…
Saturnin being martyred

The day ended in true French fashion. Sharing a meal, wine, leftover champagne (thank you Jean Bernard and Celine!), a tiny glass of  “calvados (sneaky, wicked Normandy home brew), and once again, stimulating conversation. The late hour at which we retired was proof of a good time had by all.

Tuesday, May 23 (Day 63). Anne and Marcellin are why we travel. Well, not them specifically, but people like them. They are curious about the world and curious about people. They have been the recipients of generosity and freely return the favor. Time spent with them, and people like them, is both relaxing and uplifting. Thus, while we were sad to pedal away, we were also re-energized and excited to be on the road again. Merci beaucoup!

In the interest of time, we chose an hour train ride to Auch to save a day of riding. Initially we thought of Auch only as the end of the train ride. Turned out to be much more than that.

Auch
A local woman approached us to say the locals despise this statue of the Three Muskateers. Interesting. She didn’t say why.

The train assist allowed us to reach the town of Condom. Yes, you read that correctly. Snicker away. The name is from ancient Gaullic and apparently means a market at a confuence of streams. We plan on seeing the town itself tomorrow. Today, we enjoyed the sunny warm weather in the Condom Campground.

Wednesday, May 24 (Day 64). After breakfast, narrow country lanes took us north to the Canal du Garonne. This canal is the prettier, younger sister of the Canal du Midi. One hundred plus year old Plane trees line the Canal. The trail alongside the canal is smooth pavement compared to the rough gravel along much of the Canal du Midi. Without much effort, we put fifty miles behind us.

Today we had no destination in mind. About the time we decided we were “done” a random campground appeared. We took a flyer and ended up at a farm/campground in amongst the pigs, goats, donkeys, and cows. The shower was bog-standard ancient caravan (in American English, a tiny shower in a tattered, old camp trailer). The couple who seemed to own the place were friendly enough. She walked us through knee-high grass to a spot next to the goat pen and disappeared. No registration. No money changed hands. It’s a lovely setting, just a bit odd.

Sharon hanging with her new goat friends.

Thursday, May 25 (Day 65). We entered our tent last night with plans to continue cycling toward Bordeaux. We left our tent this morning with train tickets to Bordeaux, and tickets to Tours tomorrow. Turns out the world is a big place. We travel slowly. And perhaps, more pertinent, the clock is tick – tick – ticking. It would be impossible to see even a fraction of what we’d like to see in the three -ish weeks we have left in France. Time to fast forward again.

Bordeaux is an elegant city, often called “Little Paris.” Locals scoff and suggest Paris should be called “Big Bordeaux!” It has the usual colorful history. Rome, Goths, Visigoths, France, England and a host of minor players all held power at one point or another. Bordeaux and all Acquitane were actually English territory for almost three hundred years. Thank you Eleanor d’ Acquitane. Look her up. She is a fascinating individual.

After our guided walking tour, Aussie Paul invited us for drinks. What a hoot! He is currently motorcycling around Europe (among other things) and was the source of one hilarious story after another. If we ever get Down Under, he has motorcycles and a sailboat he’s willing to share. Hmmmm.

Friday, May 26 (Day 66). We’ve been boasting about the French train system for weeks now. We were looking forward to another painless segment on our march north. Imagine our surprise at being booted off and left standing on the quai as the train pulled out of the station. We had arrived on time. We had our tickets. Our bikes, however, were not welcome! We had failed to book passage for our trusty steeds! Thus the stern “NOT possible!” as we were shown the door. Well – shoot!

This led to a very pleasant chat with the one english speaking ticket agent. She tried every combination of trains and destinations in the French rail system to get us north. All to no avail. We finally booked passage as far as La Rochelle. Then with a wink and conspiritorial whisper, she suggested we play dumb tourist and stay on the train beyond La Rochelle to our original destination.

We were tempted, and it probably would have worked. In the end, we played it straight and rolled off at La Rochelle. Less than a mile from the station, we added our tent to the dozen other cyclist tents in a fun municipal campground close to the Ocean Atlantique. So far, we’ve met Rose, a young lady from Holland on her 3rd solo cycling journey. Steph and Aaron from New Zealand are hard-core travelers. They have a deep well from which to draw stories. I’ll share just one. Having made a spur of the moment decision to buy a well loved and well-used Land Rover, they made the obvious decision to drive from Morocco to South Africa. I mean, what else would you do with a Land Rover? We’re looking forward to some adult beverages and more story time tomorrow night as well.

Our Kiwi neighbors Steph and Aaron

Saturday, May 27 (Day 67). One bad experience has not put us off train travel. With a slightly more careful eye for details, we think we’ve booked passage to Tours on Sunday afternoon. That means two days in La Rochelle. We spent our Saturday “rest day” exploring Ile de Re. The island is criss-crossed with cycle paths connecting charming (touristic) villages. It is a cyclists dream, especially for us without the weight of our gear.

Back at camp, our impromptu circle of new friends grew to include Muriel (France) and Roy (Ireland). The beer, stories, and laughter flowed freely into the evening. It was magic. I’ll say it again, it is what makes cycle touring so special. So, thank you Anne, Marcellin, Paul, Steph, Aaron, Rose, Roy, and Muriel for giving us the gift of your time and sharing your journey and stories. Until next week…STC!

Rose serenading Steph, Aaron and all the cyclists in our part of camp.

Life Behind Bars #10

On By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road8 Comments

May 14 – 20, 2023 (France)

Sunday, May 14 (Day 54). From 1309 to 1377 several popes moved their home from Rome to Avignon. This did not sit well with critics back in Italy who described Avignon as “Babylon”, as a place where the winter mistral winds blow bitterly, and as “a sewer where all the muck of the universe collects.” High praise indeed! It was also said that even the best of those popes were more concerned with power and earthly delights than in ministering to their earthly flock. Just one fascinating little morsel of history from this fascinating city.

Another Avignon fun fact: on Sunday almost everything is closed. With no baguettes or breakfast to be had, we crossed the Rhone and set out in search of food – and our next fascinating French town. Along the way, we crossed paths with two Austrian sisters. They were riding from their home on the way to complete the Camino de Santiago. Two years earlier the same trip had been cut short by an accident in Pamplona. The sisters and I laughed and talked. Meanwhile Sharon was sharing stories with a German couple on a two month trip…with their black lab! I understand people like their pets – but that is next level commitment. We have missed these interactions with other travelers, so this was a real treat.

Ever since our traumatic hail storm experience outside of Arles, we’ve been trying to run and hide from the rain. It caught up to us outside of Remoulins and tried to deliver another soaking. We were prepared this time. As soon as we realized what Rain was up to, we retreated to a comfy shelter! Score one for Dave and Sharon.

After the rain

In Remoulins we heard about a unique bull fight scheduled to take place a few hours later. In this event, the matador doesn’t kill the bull. Rather, he attempts to grab tassels or balls affixed to the bulls horns. Sounds crazy! We were tempted, but we were hungry and tired and chose instead to head to camp. We treated ourselves to a tasty pizza at the campground restaurant. This was followed by a shower, stretching,  planning, relaxing, and chatting with family. It was a good day!

Monday, May 15 (Day 55). The Pont du Gard offers a master class in Roman engineering. In ancient times, a thirty-one mile long aquaduct supplied water to the ancient Roman city of Nemausus, now known as Nimes. The Pont du Gard (Gard River Bridge) is the most visible remaining segment. The level of precision they achieved, on such a grand scale, with ancient tools – it almost defies belief. It certainly challenges the arrogant belief that because we have smart phones and can post selfies on social media, we are so much smarter than people 2,000 years ago.

Pont du Gard

Speaking of how smart we are…the story is told of a couple who rented a car in Las Vegas. They entered their destination in the GPS, and then blindly followed as the device took them farther and farther into the desert. Never questioning the computer’s guidance, they eventually got stuck crossing a sandy wash. Which is where searchers later recovered their bodies. That’s how computers are going to take over the world. No Terminators or nukes. They will simply foster total reliance (and trust) and then get us hopelessly lost.

I was reminded of this story as we once again made the mistake of blindly following Komoot (one of our map apps). It started by sending us down decent gravel roads along fields and past farms. OK. Then the roads got smaller and rougher. Can’t last long! We should have gotten suspicious when it directed us into a farmer’s barnyard where we received a hearty tongue lashing. We should have retreated, but you know the saying, if you find yourself in a hole – keep digging! At one point, we found ourselves dragging our bikes along rocky paths that would have made a mountain goat question his life choices. If I’m honest there might have been some thrown helmets and angry words as we questioned certain life choices. I believe the old saying is true. “Whatever doesn’t kill you can still suck!” No doubt Komoot (and Skynet) were mightily disappointed that we survived.

We, on the other hand, were quite happy to have survived and returned to the warm embrace of civiliation. We were happier still to find a well stocked grocery and a comfortable campground outside Quissac. Nothing like food, a shower, and protection from the wind to improve one’s outlook.

Tuesday, May 16 (Day 56).  We’ve been on the road now for eight weeks. It would be unrealistic spectacular all the time. So we are not at all surprised that the last few days have been nice, but in many ways, unspectacular. That changed today. From Quissac to Ganges, we were treated to a nicely paved old railroad line. Dramatic mountains loomed above as we rode through agreeably  picturesque villages. Leaving the rail line, we followed the Vie River before climbing onto a high plateau. We topped out at Mondardian with a storybook chateau perched high and master of all it surveyed.

The only blot on this otherwise spectacular day, was the presence of an angry headwind. Frequent gusts felt like someone pounding their fist on a table during an argument. It was wearying. It felt good to finally find some shelter at a campground near Blandas. Our neighbors, Jacques and Elsbeth were backpacking across this part of France. Our conversation with them brought the day to a perfect close.

Wednesday, May 17 (Day 57). We awoke to the sound of wind tearing at the trees in our campground. It was the sad sound of another long day of battle with the elements. Then serendipity struck! It took such concentration to stay upright and moving forward, that we missed a turn. When we stopped to get our bearings in Le Caylar, we realized our mistake. At that precise moment, Hubert introduced himself. After only a brief conversation, he insisted we join him for lunch.

Hubert

What followed could only be described as magical. With practiced ease, he plied us with chamomille apertif, salads, leftovers, bread, cheese, home made jams, wine. He shared details about his annual festival devoted to sharing the joys of “slow travel.” Every year people come to share their stories of moving slowly through the world, on foot, by bicycle, following flocks of sheep, or working and walking around their gardens. Only later did we find out that Hubert and his festival are quite famous. We were honored to have been the recipients of his generosity. And to think, if we hadn’t taken a wrong turn…

While we were with Hubert, we also made the decision to stop beating our heads against a brick wall. The wind wasn’t going to change – so we did. With Hubert’s help, we plotted a more southerly route to take advantage of the wind. We are so glad we did. Hubert sent us through beautiful villages and along a high ridge with expansive views in all directions. We coasted downhill for miles at a time. Four days of incessant wind had taken a physical and mental toll on us. Hubert and a tailwind were exactly what we needed. We ended the day in a quiet spot along the d’Orb River.

Thursday, May 18 (Day 58). Today was a big day. We’ve been making our way toward Toulouse with the goal of meeting with Anne and Marcellin. Our desired time frame meant that we needed to cover fifty miles. Once again an old railroad line made for easier cycling for much of the way. Tunnels smoothed out the hills, and the landscape protected us a bit from the wind (it found us again). One big climb out of the d’Orb River valley allowed us to coast down into the broad plain that lies between these mountains and the Pyrenees.

Immediately upon arrival at camp, Jan and his wife from the Netherlands struck up a conversation. They have toured extensively, including a lengthy trip around the western states forty-three years ago. They adopted us and introduced us to some of their friends in the campground. Dinner, conversation, live music and good company. La Vie est belle.

Friday, May 19 (Day 59). We had already decided to take a train into Toulouse. Our next decision was where to catch the train. Straight south twelve miles to Lezignan-Corbieres, or twenty-four miles east-southeast to Carcassonne along the famous Canal du Midi. We chose Carcassonne…and we chose poorly. Light rain and, you guessed it, stiff headwinds made the journey a challege. And somehow, twenty-four miles became thirty-two by the time we arrived. Still, the Canal du Midi was interesting. Built in the 1600’s using 12,000 men with picks and shovels – it was an engineering marvel. It ultimately fulfilled a dream of the time to connect the Atlantic and the Mediterranean Sea.

After consulting with Ann, we found a place to spend the night in Carcassonne. This city is home to the best preserved and well known medieval fortified city in France. It is definitely worthy of a more thorough examination. Crossing the river on the way to the Aude gate, the view is absolutely stunning.

Saturday, May 20 (Day 60). Another train day. Carcassonne to Toulouse. Toulouse to Brax-Leguevin. And there at the station was Anne, with a huge grin and la bise (the French double kiss).

Sharon, Ann and Marcellin on Mljet

It has been a long journey to get this point, and not just in distance. We met Ann and Marcellin one year ago on the island of Mljet in Croatia. We were just arriving, they were taking the ferry to the mainland. We talked for no more than ten minutes, but immediately recognized kindred spirits. Since we were traveling at roughly the same speed in roughly the same direction, we exchanged contact info and expected to meet again in a few days. Then Covid waylaid us, and our planned meet up never happened. We stayed in touch, however, and always hoped to reconnect. Today was the day!

Ann led us on a merry chase through the countryside to their home in Fonsorbe. While Marcellin was away attending an orienteering competition with their son and daughter, Ann was the perfect host. We ate. We talked. We learned about their ’round the world travels and life in France. Then we met Celine and Jean Bernard, Ann’s university friend and husband, down from Paris for a long weekend. They offered advice on “must see” places that could keep us occupied for months. It will be challege to cull the list to accomodate our remaining three weeks in France. We continued on to enjoy an afternoon and evening of food, laughter, and stimulating conversation. No traveler could hope for a more convivial setting.

This has been a week of mental and physical highs and lows. It certainly ended on a high note. After some more rest, we are looking forward to the exploring the “insiders” France laid for us. Until next week…STC!

Life Behind Bars – #7

On By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road5 Comments

April 23 – 29, 2023

Sunday, April 23 (Day 33). Deep in the woods a few miles outside Covarrubias, we expected only the sounds of silence.  We were not expecting an all-night concert (literally ALL night) from the direction of town. My beloved not only slept through it all, she added her very wind instrument melodies to the music. Fortunately, we only had a short twenty-five miles to Burgos, so a lack of sleep wasn’t an issue.

In the past we’ve had massively stressful rides entering larger U.S. cities. What a delight to enter Burgos on a dedicated bike path that took us into the heart of the city.

And what a heart Burgos has. It is a modern city that seamlessly embraces its past. Modern apartments overlook charming old promenades. Winding side streets branch off  boulevards full of traffic. Modern shops exist in the shadow of an 800 year old Gothic cathedral and other historic buildings. It works. We walked to stretch our legs and get our bearings. We then took shelter from the cold wind and rain.

Monday, April 24 ( Day 34). As the city was waking, we set off  in different directions to explore. Sharon wandered neighborhoods. I ran along the Rio Arlanzon, then climbed to the Burgos castle. This medieval fortification was updated by Napolean and was the site of an important battle between his forces and England’s Wellington.

Several highlights today. Top of the list, meeting Tim and Milo, kindred spirits from South Africa and Germany. In the past five years, they’ve traveled the globe by foot and bicycle. Like other world travelers we’ve met, they have an exuberant curiosity and infectious enthusiasm. What a joy to share stories, beer, and laughter for an all too brief time.

We left to tour and marvel at the Burgos Cathedral. Soaring gothic cathedrals are designed, in part, to humble worshippers in the presence of a very large God. It is also meant to draw one’s attention heavenward. This space would certainly have done that. We listened to the audio tour describing details of its construction from the 1200’s onward. You quickly run short of superlatives. It is a visual feast. At the same time, one gets a sense that the design and construction were meant to glorify the patrons, politicians, and church leaders as much as – if not more so – than God.

Tuesday, April 25 (Day 35). One hundred years ago, folks in Santander pushed hard for a rail line from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. The history is a little murky, but I gather that the rail line did not do all that well. It does, however, do very well as a bike route through a beautiful and varied countryside. The old Santander-Mediterraneo rail line unexpectedly gave us one of our most pleasant days of biking yet. Thirty-five downhill, wind-assisted miles to a quiet spot in the woods.

Train Station on the old rail line

Wednesday, April 26 (Day 36). Last summer we Binni in Turkey. Binni is a young German cyclist who, a year later, is still traveling the world. He recently posted a picture from his tent with the following caption, “What a gift to have a different living room view every day. What a gift to have this wonderful world as a living room!” Well said Binni! We couldn’t agree more. And as Sharon just pointed out, it is available to anyone.

Our “living room”

After breakfast in our outdoor kitchen, we packed our home and moved it another forty miles down the road, with only one small hiccup. Just before parting ways with our rail line, we had to carry our bikes and gear across an unfinished bridge. A small price to pay for such a wonderful route.

Madrid and the interior of Spain rest on a high plateau. We ended our day on the edge of that plateau where the land tumbles down to the sea. In one of our more interesting campsites, we pitched up on an abandoned stretch of highway no longer in use after a tunnel was constructed. It was made even better by a visit from Chris, our future Warmshower host in Bilbao. Turned out he was passing nearby, so he stopped to chat…and share a cold beer no less.

Thursday, April 27 (Day 37). By themselves, the numbers don’t mean much. Two thousand five hundred feet of descent and five hundred feet of climbing over twenty-five miles. I think you’ll get a better sense of our day from the following video, and a few pics. What you won’t see in the video is me grinning from ear to ear.

Aside from the fetching countryside, all day long we passed groups of cyclists making the climb up to the top of the pass. That’s a fifty mile roundtrip from Bilbao. The interesting thing was that all were men – not a single woman passed by. Almost all were our age or older. And almost all were incredibly fit. Very impressive.

Based on a suggestion from Chris, on our way into town we stopped by a polideportiva – basically a local municipal gym. To the young lady at the desk I explained that we were bicycle touring, and needed – she interrupted “a ducha?” Hmmm. How did she know I was going to say shower? Pyschic? Or was it really that obvious? She then allowed us the use of the facilities at no cost. Later we found an attractive park to relax for a bit.  As Chris said later, “So you landed on your feet in Bilbao.“

As a Warmshower host, Chris graciously offered us the use of his downtown office as our home for a few nights.  He uses what is basically a conference room to teach English as a Second Language to both kids and adults. It is the perfect location to explore Bilbao.

Our home for two nights

And explore we did. On our own we wandered along the Bilbao river that for centuries received ships from all over the known world. We strolled past the world famous Guggenheim art museum. Later with Chris we sampled the Bilbao night life, which included sampling squid in ink sauce (tasty!!) as well as a local cod dish. Good times.

Friday, April 28 (Day 38). This was one of our active “rest” days. We both logged many miles wandering the city separately. I spent a few hours in the maritime museum. The history of this city is a maritime history. It exists because its location allowed the transfer of goods between inland Spain and the world via ocean going vessels. The museum also touched on the remarkable transition from an industrial downtown to a thriving downtown filled with art and life.

A highlight of the day was meeting with one of Chris’s adult class of English learners. We shared a bit of our story and gave them an opportunity to practice their English asking questions. Thanks again Chris for the opportunities and insights into life in Spain and the Basque region.

Saturday, April 29 (Day 39). As a fan of the Tour de France dating back to the days of Greg Lemond, this was a special day for me. It would have been enough simply enjoy the spectacular and rugged Basque coastline. But this year the Tour starts in Bilbao. This gave us the unique opportunity to spend almost the entire day riding a portion of the Stage 1 route.

With 4,000 feet of climbing, rain, stops to take in all the activity and views from Bilbao to Mundaka, it was a long, grueling day – and we enjoyed every minute! I guess that kind of describes this past week, and maybe defines bike touring. So often the best bits come as the result of some hard work. Having said that, sometimes the good bits just drop into our lap. One thing is certain, none of it happens unless you’re putting yourself out there. So, kids, get out there and enjoy! Until next week…STC!

Life Behind Bars #5

On By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road3 Comments

April 9 – 15, 2023

April 9. Easter Sunday

The square outside the cathedral complex was being preppeding for a major event. We were intrigued, but we’d had our share of crowds, so hard pass. Instead, we sat in on a portion of a worship service in a slightly smaller, yet impossibly ornate church. The lack of any visible joy or enthusiasm from the priest was…underwhelming, and sad. After a brief stay, we let ourselves out.

For the rext of the day we touristed. We wandered the streets. We sampled empanadas. We learned history. We made our way to the beach for a bit of a sit. Families, kids, couples were all enjoying a lazy Sunday afternoon. We sadly observed a number of impoverished women who apparently could only afford half a swimming suit.  Although, as Forrest Gump said, “That’s one less thing to worry about. So that’s good!”

Cadiz is big, busy, and touristic – all  things that normally put us off. Somehow though it was different in our area’s warren of streets. Mostly residential had a few public accommodations mixed in. People were out casually visiting bars, mercados, coffee shops, playgrounds, plazas, and restaurants.  The background “noise” was laughter, talking, singing, and children playing. We found ourselves drawn to the livliness and life surrounding us. For us, Cadiz was an enjoyable experience.

April 10 (Day 20). Getting out of Cadiz was much easier than getting in. That rarest of creatures – a tailwind – pushed us south. We rode along the coast. We rode through seaside tourist towns. We rode for miles on deserted back roadds and lengthy bike paths. We rode over a large hill/small mountain. We heartily approve of the change from farmland. At day’s end we found a lovely “room” tucked in the woods, overlooking yet another beautiful Atlantic la playa. Quiet, peaceful, and free! It was a very good day.

April 11 (Day 21). Las Montanas!! At last! I’ll not deny that we enjoyed the ease of flat biking along the coast or the simple pleasures of gently rolling hills. But if I’m honest, it can be…slightly monotonous. But the mountains! Oh yes! Sure, climbing can be hard – brutal even. But the views, ahead, behind, always changing. The glory of gravity welcoming you back into her warm embrace after you crest a ridge or cross a pass is divine. Today, after a few miles along the coast, we turned away from the coast and toward the mountains. Windmills and small towns clung to hillsides and filled the valleys. When the road finally tilted – it was glorious. Tonight, a wild camp. Silent except for the day’s dying wind. An expansive view of the mountainous Parque Natural Los Alcornocales (cork oaks). Well played Spain! Well played!

April 12 (Day 22). The Rock of Gibralter! Possibly the most well-known landmark in the world. To paraphrase Ted Lasso, “You could fill two internets with what I don’t know about Gibralter.” For example, you may not know that the Rock of Gibralter, and it’s counterpart in Morocco, Jebel Musa, are known as the Pillars of Hercules. He supposedly straddled the Straits of Gibralter after he put down his foot and created the nine mile wide passage between Europe and Africa. You also may not know that Britain gained possession of this territory as a spoil of war in 1713. That was the same treaty that gave England possession of Nova Scotia, and drove out the French Acadians (Henry Wordsworth Longfellow’s Evangeline??). But I digress. I am an unapologetic history geek.  It is our plan to fix the knowledge gap few days.

April 13 (Day 23). “My mama always said you can tell a lot about a person by their shoes, where they going, where they been.” (Forrest Gump) Today you could tell we was going walking cuz we had on our walking shoes. And we walked! We walked up and down that rock. We walked in tunnels and caves. We walked up to where we could see Africa, big as life. We walked past Barbary Macaques (monkeys) that call Gibralter home. One cheeky monkey ambushed Sharon and almost made off with Peter Rabbit, while another played with Surfie (companions sent by our grandchildren). We were stoked to explore the nooks and crannies and history of the place. We were also stoked to find an awesome doner shop to fuel our wandering. Finally, we were stoked to put up our feet at day’s end.

Whetting our whistle at the Pig and Whistle

April 14 (Day 24). I had to twist Sharon’s arm (really) to get her to agree to a true rest day. So far, all our “zero” days have been like yesterday – zero miles biking, but eleven miles of hiking and 2,000 vertical feet of climbing. So today – rest. That was the theory. We both went through our packs, purged and decided to send off a combined seven pounds of gear. That meant another trip into Gibralter. For Sharon, who at times has difficulty sitting still, that gave her an excuse to ride completely around the Gibralter peninsula. No thank you! I did manage to wrestle the girl into a lounge chair for at least part of the day.

It’s Miller Time – Not!!!                     Cruzcampo Radler time

April 15 (Day 25). For those accustomed to long weekends or an annual two week vacation – 90 days must seem like all the time in the world. I don’t mean to sound unappreciative, but when you are traveling this great big world by bicycle, 90 days barely scratches the surface. I mention this by way of explanation. After endlessly exploring our options, we chose to board a bus from Gibralter to Madrid. I won’t bore you with all the reasons. But, it will give us more time and flexibility down the road.

Since the bus didn’t leave until 9:30pm, we had a long lie in, and another lovely, lazy day.

The writer Dante is famous for his fantastical descriptions of the different levels of Hell. I am convinced only a lack of imagination kept him from describing one of the worst levels of Hell as an overnight bus ride to Madrid. More details to follow next week. For now it’s Enough to say that we are thrilled to have completed the first leg of our journey. We are excited to begin a new chapter in the north. Be well and STC!

1987 East Coast Bike Trip

On By KBGearDaveIn Biking StuffLeave a comment

“What a long, strange trip its been”

It was like a bizarre episode of the Twilight Zone – “The Train Ride from Hell“. We lumbered along at 5 mph, then slowly shuffled off onto a siding. Hours later we’d begin to lumber along again, until we shuffled off onto another siding. Repeat endlessly! Eventually we were running more than 24 HOURS behind schedule. This was no small feat, given the whole trip was supposed to take that long. Sleep deprived and trapped in the madness, we laughed hysterically at the thought that we’d make it to our destination faster if we unpacked our bikes and rode the rest of the way. We passed the time making up verses to the Grateful Dead song “Truckin.” Amtrak staff seemed not to care. On the rare occasion when an Amtrak employee came through our car, they seemed genuinely surprised, and somewhat annoyed to find the train full of people. One sensed they wished we would just go away. Things came to a head when Milo, a very large and intimidating man picked up the conductor and pinned him to the wall of our coach. I have this vivid memory of the conductor’s feet dangling a foot off the ground as Milo stood nose to nose and yelled, “You WILL get me and my family to Miami to meet our cruise ship! We are NOT going to miss our boat!” Staring death in the face apparently jolted some brain neurons into action, and sparked the novel thought that perhaps all these people hanging about were actually meant to be taken someplace. This led to a flurry of activity, and before long we were all herded off the train and placed on…buses…to take us to our destinations. You can’t make this stuff up. Strong work Amtrak! “What a long, strange trip its been!”

  • Free from the nightmare…and a happy conductor bidding us all “good riddance!”
  • Readying the bikes for travel

In spite of Amtrak’s best efforts, we did arrive in Richmond, Virginia. Bikes came out of the shipping boxes, were re-assembled and loaded with camping gear. And just like that, our great adventure began. We had biked and toured before, so in general we knew what to expect. We’d never had the opportunity to travel in this part of the country for such an extended length of time. Looking back now, the objective facts of the trip are easy to recount. Trip length…49 days. Miles traveled…2,600. Total cost for two months of travel – $962. Route…Virginia along the Skyline drive portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway. To Berryville to visit old family friends the McCuans. Washington D.C. to visit the capitol and a distant relative of Sharon’s. From there it was north through Maryland, Pennsylvania, and New York. We turned right and wandered through, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine. We hopped a ferry from Bah Hahbah to Yarmouth, Novia Scotia. North through the land of Evangeline, around the land of Anne of Green Gables (Prince Edward Island), New Brunswick, and down the St. Lawrence Seaway in Quebec to Quebec City.

People

Bicycle travel is special, in that it makes you uniquely accessible to people. I can’t begin to count all the conversations we had with complete strangers. People would just begin talking to us. Most had questions. Many of the questions were similar “No – we’re not teachers” and “Tires actually last quite a long time – although we do bring a patch kit for blowouts.” Many of those interactions blend together, some were more memorable.

  • “The road ahead is so crooked and rough you’ll be shakin’ before you know yer shakin‘” Local sitting on his rocking chair, when asked about the route ahead.
  • “Where y’all from?” “Wisconsin.” “Is that over by Rochester?” Conversation with geographically challenged folks in upstate New York.
  • “If the fire’s hot enough – anything will burn” (fellow bike tourer Tom on his love for massive quantities of gummy bears, gummy worms, and all manner of penny candies).
  • Arthur in Novia Scotia. He had traveled by bicycle for five months, biking in cut off jeans and a flannel shirt, and living on $4.83 per day. He refused to leave us alone while at the same time extolling the virtues of traveling alone.
  • The McCuan’s. Neighbors from when I was a wee lad. We visited them in Berryville, VA. where they lived on a 162 year old farm. I had always thought Winnie and John were the coolest people – ever! Teachers who had traveled the world, they were the consummate hosts. They gave us a tour of the area and welcomed us to be part of daughter Laurie’s graduation from high school. (I was in 3rd grade when Winnie brought Laurie home for the first time).
  • The Mc Cuans – Winnie, Elizabeth, and John
  • Laurie – Graduation is a big deal in Virginia
  • “Do you have problems with sheet?” When we failed to comprehend the question, “You know – #2!) French-Canadian cyclists Suzie and Sophie quizzing Sharon on whether biking had given her “problems with sheet” as well. This was their first ever bike trip. While they didn’t mind camping, they had a unique method for securing lodging for the night. They would wait until early evening before stopping at small town convents. “Oh seester…we ‘ave been cycling all day and are hungry and tired. Would you have room for us???” Apparently this never failed. I recently connected with Suzie via Facebook. She currently runs what looks like a lively B & B/Cafe. http://gitechambrechaletstmathieuduparc.com/en/photo/
  • We met Tom and Ruth Stuwe at church in Barre, Vermont. They invited us to their home, fed us pizza, gave us a tour of the town, engaged us in fascinating conversation, and as we continued our journey, gave us some excellent route suggestions and told us where to buy the best apple fritter ever.
  • Canadians Sophie and Suzie
  • The Stuwes – Barre, VT

Places

While not quite as slow as Amtrak, cycling hits the sweet spot. It allows you to cover significant distances while also immersing you in your surroundings. There is no way to share everything we saw over the course of two months. So, perhaps, just a few highlights will suffice.

The Skyline drive portion of the Blue Ridge parkway is meant to be biked, with beautiful views of “blue” ridges stretching off into the distance. Several times we crossed the Appalachian trail, and one night camped next to a through hiker.
Good times!
We’re not big city/museum kind of people. Yet we found Washington D.C. to be a fascinating place. In person, the monuments were quite powerful.
  • Gastric trainwreck.
Preparing for rain…riding in the rain…fixing flats…doing maintenance…
…eating insane amounts, and questionable food choices.
All regular features of bike touring.
Some camp spots were more picturesque than others. Maryland was not very welcoming, so we ended up camping under a highway overpass. Hmmm...where have I heard of that before?
  • “Did you know PA was so hilly?”
    “Nope!”
  • Mt Jo in the Adirondacks
  • Refreshing dip on a hot day
  • Mad River, Vermont
Various images from upstate Pennsylvania, New York, Vermont and New Hampshire.
  • Belfast, Maine – founded 1770
  • Panmure Lighthouse – Prince Edward Island
All these pictures were scanned from slides. The Canadian slides, sadly, remain unscanned…and thus unavailable.

A few more notable memories…

  • Prince Edward Island: A bluebird day biking along the deep blue Atlantic, with colorful fields of lupine in the foreground.
  • Adirondacks: Biking late into a warm evening and finding not only a perfect wild camp next to a lovely stream…but also a polaroid picture of some guy’s…”manhood”. He was obviously proud of it – Sharon thought it was no big thing!
  • Hantsport, Novia Scotia: Celebrating Canada Day in Hantsport with an awesome parade. Everyone in town was either in the parade, or sitting along the road cheering.
  • Panmure Campground, Prince Edward Island: Celebrating the 4th of July grilling burgers with fellow cyclist Kevin from Delaware.
  • Novia Scotia: Days of huge tailwinds and cruising easily at 20+ mph.
  • Quebec: Days of brutal headwinds and barely moving at 3 mph.
  • Spending the most romantic, memorable day ever in Vieux-Quebec (old Quebec) on Sharon’s Birthday. It was a magical day wandering the streets, sitting at sidewalk cafes, watching street performers. It was a magical day, right up to the point late at night when we realized someone had stolen our bikes…in spite of locking them for the first time on the trip.
  • Getting home several days later to have Sharon get horribly sick and bedridden…only to find out it was morning sickness. Hello Aaron…we’re your parents!

The objective facts of the trip are easy to recount and document with pictures and stats. The subjective effects are much more difficult – perhaps impossible – to convey. Safe to say that the experience had a profound and lasting impact on us. Only two years into our marriage, we learned that we could work and play together, all day, every day, for two months, often in difficult circumstances. We experienced the joys of seeing new places and meeting new people. This trip reinforced our wanderlust and desire for human powered travel. Over the years, we’ve often joked that this was just our first “trip of a lifetime!” It is also a big reason why we’ve continued to seize the carp so vigorously in the years since, and why we’re excited to dive back into the bike touring scene.