Life Behind Bars – #2

On March 29, 2023March 29, 2023 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road4 Comments

March 19 – 25

Sunday – Wednesday (3/19-22). It seemed like such a simple plan. 1. Church and pack the apartment on Sunday. Take care of any last minute details. 2. Visit Ethan in Phoenix on Monday. 3. Fly from Flagstaff to Lisbon on Tursday/Wednesday. Simple. Except…

“Last minute details” from #1 sort of ballooned and consumed all available free time Sunday. #2 went well and we had a wonderful time with Ethan. #3…ah, there’s the rub! Massive quantities of snow descended upon our fair city yet again. Our noon flight was canceled by 8am and we were automatically rescheduled on a 6pm flight. The 6pm flight was canceled several hours later. Options. Keep playing the cancel/reschedule game ad nauseum, or take a shuttle to Phoenix and catch the 2nd leg of our already rescheduled flight. Hmmm. Seize the carp we said, and down the hill we went. From there, things went smoothly. We arrived in Lisbon, tired, jet lagged and much later than planned – but we had arrived.

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Life Behind Bars – #1

On March 19, 2023March 20, 2023 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road6 Comments

March 2023

It’s been seven months since we returned from our Turkey/Eastern Europe bike tour. It has also been seven months since I’ve put pen to paper – so to speak. This is not for lack of material. The past seven months have been filled with wonderful adventures in interesting places with many of the awesome people we are privileged to call family and friends. It simply occurs to me that not everything needs to be shared. Sharon and I have been happily seizing the carp, and I expect/hope many of you have been doing the same. In the meantime, the blog has remained happily dormant. Now however, we are a few days away from getting back to “life behind bars!” On Tuesday (3/21) we are boarding another transatlantic flight with bikes and gear (hopefully) in tow. We are beyond excited, and it seems like the right time to awaken the blog. As we’ve done previously, I will generally try to post updates every Sunday. And, as in the past, you’ll be able to find a link on Facebook. Although if you scroll down, you will find an opportunity to subscribe. All you have to do is add your email. Then, every time there is an update, a link to the blog will magically appear in your inbox. As our grand daughter likes to say, “easy peasy lemon squeezy!” We would love to have you join us on our journey.

This year, we’re trying something new. Every day, Sharon will be sharing comments and pictures using an app called Polar Steps. https://www.polarsteps.com/ Our European biking friends turned us on to this very cool program. The app tracks our progress and offers the ability to add pictures and text. The pictures appear overlaid on a map as you can see in the accompanying picture from last year. In the app you can click on each circle photo to see and read more details. Simply load the app and search for “Sharon Neubauer Moore” Flagstaff, AZ and request to follow. It is an easy, simple to digest, visual way to track our progress. And – added bonus – you get to hear from Sharon!

The Plan. Last August (2022) we left the Czech Republic on a (cheaper than one-way) round trip ticket. After probably hundreds of hours of talking, poring over maps, reading trip reports, researching different routes – our massively detailed plan is…arrive in Lisbon, Portugal and head south. Yep – That’s it! Well, we are going to spend a few days in Lisbon with some good friends. And technically, we’ve planned far enough ahead to know that we’re going to head south – until we either have to turn left or keep heading south into Morocco. Beyond that it gets a little fuzzy. We have friends we’ve met on previous trips who live in Spain, France, Switzerland, Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands and England. If the stars align, it would be an amazing treat to visit with any of them. That could influence our route. Our only fixed date so far is July 4th. That’s the day we fly home from London – on yet another round trip ticket. (Do you see a pattern emerging?) As of right now though, we have no real idea how we’re going to get there. I guess you’ll just have to tune in and find out along with us.

Bike Prep. We’ve spent a third of the past 2 1/2 years on our bicycles, fully loaded for touring. By the time we arrived in Flagstaff last summer, they definitely needed some lovin’. That meant lots of quality garage time. Both bikes were fitted with all new cables, housings, brake disks, brake pads, chains, rear cogs, front chainrings, bottom bracket bearings, and handlebar tape. Index shifting was meticulously adjusted (thank you Calvin from Park Tools at Youtube University). A broken brake level needed to be replaced (mine). Sharon received upgraded (and much improved) Shimano shifters. Both our rear wheels had developed cracks on the rims. Sharon’s rim was replaced by the manufacturer and rebuilt by a local bike shop. My rear wheel received all new, properly tensioned spokes. That along with a new, wider tire will hopefully prevent the broken spoke saga of last summer. They still look old, but under the hood they are fresh and ready to roll…just like us I suppose! It was tough getting my head around the idea that all those parts are sort of considered “consumable” items.

Gear Prep. We have honed our gear list over the years, so not much changes from trip to trip. We are very much into “if it ain’t broke!” That’s not to say we didn’t have decisions to make and choices to ponder. Our much loved and well-used tent was one item that needed some consideration. It was not as consistently waterproof as one would like, so we went down the rabbit hole of looking at possible replacements. There are tons of cool designs out there. Turns out many were stupid expensive. For others, the uber lightweight butterfly wing and fairy dust fabric didn’t seem designed for a hundred plus nights/year of use. After much research and discussion, we decided to stick with our beloved REI Halfdome Plus. Hopefully, the miracle coatings and chemicals we added will ensure reliably dry nights. Other than that, a few worn-out items were replaced. Several pieces of gear that saw too little use were left behind. We wrestled again with the constant battle to find sleeping pads that don’t need constant patching. As of late Saturday night, bikes and gear are mostly packed.

General Prep. Given the crazy winter we’ve had in northern AZ, with almost twelve feet of snow here in flagstaff – there hasn’t been much opportunity for biking. We’ve both stayed active, but it looks like we will be riding ourselves into shape a bit on this trip. Speaking of twelve feet of snow, part of our general prep has involved shoveling lots of snow – often. It has also involved home repairs related to the aforementioned snow – and ice dams – and water infiltration. Beyond the snow (did I mention almost twelve feet of snow?) there are the more mundane issues. We needed to make sure all health related issues have been adressed. Doctor’s visits, medications, travel insurance, vaccinations, etc. have all been seen to. There have been countless financial details that need attention while we’re in town and state side. Now that our “to-do” list has gradually dwindled though, we’ve also tried to make the most of our remaining time in Flag. That means getting outside whenever possible. It also means getting together with friends for lunch, with Sharon’s Trail Diva crew for an evening of games and snacks, babysitting Evia so Mom and Dad could go skiing, and so on.

No doubt – we will miss Flagstaff. But as John Muir once said, “The world’s big and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark.” So off we go! Until next week from Lisbon (and beyond) – Seize the Carp!

OTRA – Across the Pond #22

On July 31, 2022November 23, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road5 Comments

Austria / Germany / Czech Republic. (Days 132 – 138)

Sunday (7/24). Europe is filled with “Eurovelo” bike routes and paths. Portions are routes on scenic, lightly traveled side roads. Others are dedicated bike paths. The route along the Danube is apparently the most popular. In one hour we counted 87 touring cyclists and 150 day riders. We guesstimated that during the day we crossed paths with a over a thousand cyclists. Crazy. Additionally, our path had an identical twin on the opposite bank also filled with cyclists. Remarkable! Many people we talked to were taking the popular week long journey from Passau, Germany to Vienna, Austria. If one were looking for a reason to invest in cycling infrastructure, you need only look to all those folks eating in restaurants, staying in guest houses, buying groceries, etc.

Speaking of Passau, after chatting with a couple at breakfast, we were convinced to make that today’s destination. We joined the cycling throngs along the Danube headed toward Passau. At one point we were surprised to realize we’d left Austria and had entered Germany! After the fastest and easiest biking of the entire trip, we arrived in Passau. People have apparently lived on this site since the 2nd century BC. The Danube, the Inn, and the Ilz River come together at Passau to create a striking setting for a city.

The Ilz River created a striking setting for our home for the evening. This tent only campground was filled with cyclists of every description. We saw folks in their 70’s as well as two and three year olds bouncing around, having a ball touring with their parents. It was quite a scene.

Monday (7/25). Our two days of flat and fast biking on the Danube came to a screeching halt today. We headed away from the river valley and up as we ever so slowly made our way toward the Czech border. But not before joining the queue of other bikers at the mobile backery that showed up at the campground. Brilliant business plan!

Along the way we met found Otis the tractor’s German cousin Oskar!

At a stop to photograph a cool bit of cycling art, we met Astrid and Georg. They own and operate a hemp farm (think fabric). Super friendly, they shared some of their cbd oil for use on sore cycling muscles. We also met Josef, the creator of the art work. He apparently had a record for riding his bike from Munich to Passau. As Sharon said, “I love serendipity!” Agreed!

As the day wore on, steep hills and mid 90’s served up my buttocks on a silver platter. I lobbied for an early end to the day and an uber early (i.e. cooler) start tomorrow. We took shelter from the Orb of Death inside an air conditioned Subway sandwich shop to consider our options. Ultimately, the best option was sitting in the cool restaurant for two hours, hydrating and eating.

Finally though we pushed on and by late afternoon entered our 13th and final country of this trip. Hello Czech Republic! And thank you for providing a free camping spot for hikers and bikers traveling through Sumava National Park.

Tuesday (7/26). Warm, bluebird skies when we went to bed. No need for the rain fly. It is much cooler and much more pleasant sleeping with it off. Yeah! Right up until a violent thunderstorm unleashed its fury. Then it was damage control, me with shoes on the wrong feet, both of us in rain throwing on the fly by feel and the light of lightning flashes! Fun stuff!

As usual, we had no real plan for the day other than to head in the general direction of Pisek. Eventually that crystallized into a plan to cycle all the way. And so we did. Coming out of the mountains along the border, we rode north through forests and fields and pleasant villages. After all the “Achtung!” & “Verboten!” in Austria and Germany, Czechia gave off more of the Balkan shoulder shrug “whatever” vibe. It felt good.

Wednesday (7/27). Only seventy-five miles left to Prague. Since we are in no rush, we slept in, had a leisurely breakfast, and wandered around Pisek.

The sun had passed its high point when we finally left town. We rode through fields of wheat, oats, corn and grazing cows, and were reminded that agriculture looks pretty much the same everwhere. If not for the foreign (to us) road signs, we could easily have been in Wisconsin. Except for a passing thunderstorm and a perfectly placed picnic shelter in some small town, it was uneventful but enjoyable riding. In Pliskovice we stumbled onto a little Dutch enclave. The owners and the other campers were all from the Netherlands. It was “Dutch Night” at the restaurant, and almost everyone else took part in the festivities. Apparently the owner announced that “the cyclists” were from America. That led to some friendly questions from interested folks.

Thursday (7/28). Highlights of the day. After some morning climbing we were treated to a lengthy section of gravity assist as we followed a river valley north. We did question Kamoots route finding ability…or more accurately…it ability to differentiate between a “road” and a trail through the woods.

Soft serve raspberry in a waffle cone also made the highlight real for the day. We got sucked in by the sign. How could we not stop?

We decided our last night on the road should be a quiet, picturesque wild camp. It took some doing, but an old granite quarry along the Berounka River fit the bill. We relaxed and watched people climb until it was time to make our home for the night.

Friday (7/29). This was it. Last day of loaded cycling. We felt like like the last ceremonial stage of the Tour de France making its way to the Champs-Elysees.

We had endured the grueling mountain stages! We had endured the heat. We had suffered unexpected set backs. We had experienced victories. And like anyone who wears the Maillot Jeune (the winner’s yellow jersey) into Paris, we had received a great deal of help along the way. We both felt a great sense of satisfaction as we rolled into Prague. Na zdravi to us!

The absolute highlight of the day came later. Three years ago during our John Muir backpack, we spent time with a young couple from the Czech Republic. We very much enjoyed their company, and we parted with the usual “If you ever make it to Flagstaff…” or “If you ever come to the Czech Republic…” not really expecting either to happen. Last night Helca and Andrej took us on a walking tour of Prague where they attended University. We talked about work and life in Czechia. We enjoyed beer and traditional Czech food. Perfect end to a wonderful day.

Saturday (7/30). We set the bar pretty low today for activity. Stay out of the rain. Check. Move from the hotel to our three night Airbnb. Check. Get bike boxes for the plane ride home. Check…sorta! Decathlon graciously gave us two and a Peter helped us figure out the trolleys so we could get the boxes back to our room. Turns out they are likely too small, so bright and early Monday we’ll need to try again. Do laundry with a real washing machine…for the third time this trip. Check. Relax. Hard check. Dinner and drinks. Check.

The next several days promise to be … interesting. There is much in Prague still to see and do. We have some Free Walking tours scheduled for Sunday. We have all the logistics of getting two humans and their gear back across the pond in what appears to be a logistically challenged environment. Wish us luck! I’ll let you know how it all turns with a final trip recap next week. Until then, as Sharon tells me, “Be reckless and take chances!” STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #21

On July 24, 2022November 23, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road5 Comments

Austria – Days 125 – 131

Sunday (7/17). Austria is making us predictable. Before our rest day for Sharon’s birthday, we spent four hours grinding uphill before coasting into Wolfsberg. Today leaving Wolfsberg we spent another four -ish hours and twenty miles of low gear work before gravity again became our friend. The up side (pun intended) is that from our hard won perch, we have a birds eye view of the Austrian Alps. That has made the sweat and tired legs all worth it.

Historic note: I was a bit surprised to see the city of Judenburg on our route today. In English it would be “Jew’s Castle” or as local history plaques suggest “Jews Borough”. Apparently back in the day, Jewish people were extremely active in trade in this region. When Hitler annexed Austria prior to WWII, there was talk of renaming the town “Adolfsburg” – but I guess he got distracted! It never happened. The town was the site of a concentration camp connected to the main camp in Mauthausen. It was used to house slave laborers. Due to lack of food, clothing, and regular abuse, over 50% of the prisoners died. Nothing remains of the camp today.

A few miles north of Judenburg we stopped at the house of Georg and Christi. They are Warmshowers hosts in the town of Pols. They and their two delightful daughters welcomed us into their family. Sharon “read” stories to the girls. We shared beer and treats. We were able to shower. And by the standards of cyclists and parents of small children, we talked “late” into the evening. Thanks Goerg and Christi for a wonderful time.

Monday (7/18). In addition to his duties as OR nurse dealing with trauma and orthopedics, Georg enjoys a multitude of outdoor pursuits. One hobby is long distance cycling. Not the slow, plodding kind of riding we do. Race bike, very fast 180 miles at a time kind of riding. Wow! Because of that, he possesses tremendous knowledge of practically all the roads in Austria. Better yet – he is happy to share.

We followed his suggestions as we made our way north. It involved climbing over two mountains, but it was so worth it. I’ll just say “wow” and let the pictures speak for themselves.

Tuesday (7/19). Our location in the heart of Gesause National Park along the Enns River practically demanded that we stay another day. We emerged from the tent at a leisurely 10am to a comedic attempt at breakfast. We had been looking forward to French Toast. Have you ever seen hardboiled eggs for sale next to regular eggs. Nope! Neither had we! Fortunately the tiny camp store had uncooked eggs for sale at sixty cents per! Ouch! Pricey, but crisis averted. Then we went to add cinnamon to our egg/milk mixture only to realize we’d grabbed the hot pepper powder instead of cinnamon. Argh! Start over… again. We did eventually end up enjoying our tasty breakfast.

We spent the day soaking in the beauty of the place and chattng with a few other campers. I wanted a closer look at the peaks, but for most of the day it was too hot to consider more than cowering in the shade. Finally though, the call of the peaks was more than I could resist. I made my way to one of the local mountain hutte. These “huts” are more like small guest houses. They offer rooms, serve meals and provide appropriate beverages to the thirsty climbers (with cash). What a great concept.

Wednesday (7/20). Today we began to leave the alps. Over the course of the day we followed the Enns River on its path north. It was a gradual process that still involved lots of climbing. We ended the day nine hundred feet lower than where we started. As has been true throughout Austria, we were treated to picturesque villages that wear their antiquity with ease. The river valley gradually broadened and agriculture appeared. We arrived at an adequate camping spot in Groszraming about the same time as Bart and Famke from the Netherlands rolled in. Their company and conversation made for a lively evening.

Thursday (7/21). We continued to follow the Enns River towards its meeting with the Danube. Steyr was the highlight of the day. Such an amazing mix of new and old. With dedicated bike paths for much of the day, riding was pleasant. Unfortunately there were no campgrounds anywhere within a comfortable range today. With wild camping verboten! our only choice was to find a guest house. Thalinger Hof in Kronstorf got the nod.

Friday (7/22). Today was consumed by our visit to Mauthausen concentration camp. Yes we biked and camped, but that all seems trivial in the face of the depravity that was Mauthuasen. Some of the other camps were designed specifically as death factories, killing and disposing of as many people as rapidly and efficiently as possible. Not so with Mauthausen and the dozens of satellite camps scattered around Austria. They were designated as Type III camps – i.e. “work people to death” camps. Under the most inhuman conditions, these slave laborers were literally worked to death to further Hitler’s agenda. In the pursuit of that goal, no opportunity was missed to brutalize those unfortunate souls who found themselves on the wrong side of Hitler’s racially and ideologically pure National Socialist paradise. It is one thing to read about those atrocities in a book. It is another to stand where victims were gassed, to stand where they were tortured, to look over the edge of a cliff where thousands were pushed to their deaths. Spend time here and you realize there is no limit to the cruelty people are willing – and eager – to inflict on others. It is disgusting! And it is appalling to hear some of the same sentiments and ideologies being espoused today. It was also troubling to realize how many Austrians wholly embraced Hitlers agenda and eagerly worked in these camps. And at the end of the war, almost none of those thousands was held to account. They went back to there lives and told themselves whatever lies they needed to tell themselves to sleep at night. It is a horrible place to visit. It is a place everyone should visit.

Saturday (7/3). We were haunted by our visit to Mauthausen. Even as we passed through some attractive countryside, we kept talking about what we had seen. It is hard to process.

Still, it was a very good day. Linz is a large city, but with its plethora of bike paths and public transport, we experienced none of the stress we usually feel trying to get around a big city. After wandering the streets for a bit, we headed out along the famous Danube River bike trails. It was amazing. No traffic to worry about. Flat. Hundreds and hundreds of other cyclists. Not spectacular, but very pleasant scenery. Don’t know that we would want a steady diet of this kind of cycling, but is a welcome change of pace. Rooms were a bit scarce, but we did manage to find a vacancy at a cool and moderately creepy schloss (castle). There didn’t seem to be anybody around. We have a theory that the very old woman who grudgingly checked us in was actually the ghost of someone who had died a hundred years ago.

So ends our next to last week on the road… staying in what seems to be a haunted mansion. It was another good week. We are excited for the next week in the Czech Republic. We are excited…and not a bit sad to see this journey coming to an end. Until next week – and our last “On the Road” blog from this trip – have a great week and STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #20

On July 17, 2022November 23, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road5 Comments

Slovenia – Austria (Day 118 – 124)

Sunday (7/10). If an early rainstorm hadn’t rolled through I would have been itching for an earlier start. If it had been just a bit warmer, we wouldn’t have stopped to put on an extra layer. If a market had been open in the first town we passed, we would have stopped for breakfast. If we hadn’t stopped briefly at a crossroad to check directions, Elodie’s brother in the car wouldn’t have said to Elodie in jest, “Look, there are some of your cycling friends!” If we had done any of a hundred things differently this morning, we would not have been at that precise spot at that precise moment, and Elodie would not have shouted, “Those ARE my friends! Stop!”

We met Elodie, Julia and Lucia three weeks ago on the island of Mljet, and then chatted during a ferry ride. We parted ways,, but kept in touch. Elodie is taking a short break from cycling with her friends to road trip with her family…which led to our paths crossing in Mojstrana. What a wonderful way to start our day! What a small world – at times.

And that is pretty much how the rest of the day went. Thanks to some leftover altitude from yesterday’s climb, our first thirteen miles were mostly downhill. Then we found a bakery serving up some amazing meat and cheese bureks and fruit pastries. Next up on the Slovenian parade of wonders, the world famous Bled. That called for a “chairs out” stop.

We roamed the countryside picking roads at random…and they were all good. By late afternoon we arrived in Radovljica and found accomodation in a five hundred year old guest house. When it was renovated (200 years ago) a restaurant was added on the first floor. They have been serving up food in that location ever since.

Monday (7/11). Since our room came with a tasty full breakfast, there was no early start. And there didn’t need to be. We had no destination in mind and all day to get there. For the most part we let Komoot lead us generally east. There were quite a few noteworthy moments. Riding past an idyllic village just as the church bells erupted. An unbelievably ornate church open to the public in another small town. Goats chillin’. A cycle touring family with a three and five year old on the road for three weeks. We call that redefining fun. One lane roads winding across the valley floor and through countless small villages. Even with a ten mile climb at the end of the day, we made our miles, and late in the day found a good campsite. Another memorable day in Slovenia. As a side note, on a day like today we stopped at two grocery stores and spent about $15 on food. Nothing for camping, so as of late, this was definitely on the cheap end of the spectrum.

Tuesday (7/12). We started the day with a long descent into the famous Savinja Valley. Famous because hops have reigned supreme here for over 150 years. Two thirds of all Slovenian hops are grown in this valley. Easy to believe as we rolled past mile after mile of hops fields. Of course, a steady supply of world class hops leads to a steady supply of world class craft beer. Several are quite visibly on display at the Zalec Fontana Piv (beer fountain). Not quite what you think, but still very cool.

Properly hydrated, we headed north. It was payback time for our morning descent. Eighteen miles of climbing in heavy traffic against the wind on a narrow, winding road. If I’m being honest – it sucked! Slovenia stepped up though. Eventually we were able to get off the main road onto a paved “rails to trail” path. I immediately went from tense and unhappy to relaxed and enjoying the scenery. We took our supper from a market and few miles later found a quiet spot to spend the night.

Wednesday (7/13). Our rails to trail carried us into Slovenj Gradec and our usual breakfast of yogurt and fruit. That tided us over until an amazing (and cheap) doner wrap in Dravograd. We fell in love with this tasty meal in Turkey and hadn’t had a proper doner in some time. What a treat!

Lesson for the day: The word “grad” in Slovene means “castle”. Add “Dravo” to the front, and the name of the town Dravograd means “the castle on the Drava River.” This town has been around at least since the time it was mentioned in written description of the area – in 1135ad.

500 and 750 year old churches in Slovenj Gradec

Well planned bike routes and dedicated bike paths brought us to Radlje ob Dravi. Even with help from locals I simply could not get my tongue to perform the gymnastics necessary to pronounce the first part of this city name. That didn’t keep us from enjoying the city, the people, the hostel, or the fine microbrew. One of our servers, Zhan, is planning his first bike tour to Prague in two months. It was fun to share info and see his enthusiasm. His co-workers were very nice, but didn’t seem quite as excited about the time he was spending with his new American friends.

Thursday (7/14). We arrived in Radlje with the idea of continuing east to Maribor, then curving north into Austria along the eastern end of the Alps. The thought was to attempt to avoid some big climbs. On second thought, why not just plunge straight into (and over) the belly of the beast? Four miles straight north (and up) and we entered country #11. As expected, Austria gave us a hearty (and steep) Wilkommen!

Friday (7/15). Decisions! Decisions! We both spent time exploring possible through and around the mountains here. So naturlich, we chose a route that would equal our biggest climb of the trip last week. It was as expected. There was walking. There were amazing views of the peaks surrounding us and the valleys far, far below. We passed through eerily quiet villages. And then – we were at the top, almost five thousand vertical feet higher from where we started. Unfortunately that also put us in the clouds, which chose that moment to release all the water they’d been carrying. It was a very long, very soggy descent. We both felt a bit cheated at not being able to enjoy it more. Still, we both felt tremendous satisfaction at having knocked off another big climb – and feeling good while doing it. We took the path of least resistance all the way into Wolfsberg and shelter from the rain.

Saturday (7/16). Those with good memories might find something familiar about today’s date. Meine Frau celebrated a Geburtstag! A key feature of the celebration was staying in one place for two nights – which meant no biking on the birth day! That was combined with good food, ice cream and just a touch of laziness for a spectacular day. It may not have been the most exciting day, but it was definitely appreciated.

First Efes since we left Turkey. Pretty exciting!

So here we are in Austria (country #11). We like what we’re seeing. People are nice. We once find ourselves surrounded by mountains, valleys and handsome towns. I can spreche just enough Deutsch to fill the gap if someone doesn’t spreche English. In the “negative” column, we are experiencing sticker shock after Turkey and the Balkan countries. Wild camping is strictly verboten! Campgrounds are expensive and so far virtually non-existent. Guest house and hotel prices cause actual physical pain when we swipe our credit card. So we have some mixed feelings! But as a friend used to say, it is still “More good than bad!” Which seems like a good place to end the week. Hope it is more good than bad wherever you are. Until next week – STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #19

On July 10, 2022March 20, 2023 By KBGearDaveIn Misc. Stuff, On the Road2 Comments

Croatia – Slovenia (Day 111 – 117)

Sunday (7/3). Saturday night we stayed in a hostel right next door to the Post Office where our package resides. Unfortunately a break dancing troupe booked the entire hostel for tonight. Hate it when that happens! In spite of my crazy good break dancing skills, we were not welcome. Instead, we moved down to a campground by the water. We’d been reluctant to stay there based on bad reviews, but it turned out to be a lovely place. As usual in the heat, we spent all afternoon at the beach, hiding in the shade and cooling off in the water. (Good thing! Little did we know this was our last day at the sea).

Monday (7/4). Rather than deliver the package on Friday, the mail carrier just left a note telling Peter to go get it himself. Which meant we all had to meet at the Post Office on Monday. On a whim, Sharon went into the Post Office before Peter arrived. Thirty seconds later she came out with our package. So much for secure post! Would have been nice to save Peter a trip, but we’re glad he came. We ended up having a pleasant chat. He was born and raised in Kraljevica, but now lives in Poland with his Polish wife. He also cycle tours and sea kayaks. We have lots in common, so it would have been nice to hang with him a bit. Unfortunately it didn’t fit into any of our schedules.

Armed with local knowledge from Peter, we rode into Rejika straight to the train station. Peter suggested getting to Goritzia, Italy to start our tour of Slovenia. The ticket agent did some checking and communicated that we couldn’t get there from here – but we could get close – and YOU NEED TO GET ON THAT TRAIN RIGHT NOW! IT LEAVES IN TWO MINUTES! So we did! And it did! And here’s the fun part – we had no idea where the train was headed! After lots of pointing, grunting, puzzled looks, etc. – we figured out that we were, in fact, going to Lubjlana…the opposite direction from Goritzia. If we went to Lubljana however, we could change trains, take a long, convoluted journey north, then southwest to eventually arrive near Goritzia. Or, we could leave the train before Lubjlana and bike the short distance from Postojna to Goritzia. Well duh!

With that decided, for the remainder of our our train ride we chatted with two girls sharing our compartment. They had just graduated from high school in Germany. Armed with Eurail passes and backpacks, they were traveling Europe for a month. Fairly common here, that seems unheard of in the States.

Postojna was filled with pleasant surprises. The massive cave system we’d read about was actually right here in Postojna. We were pleasantly surprised to find a tasty Chinese restaurant, which was a welcome change from our normal fare. Postojna is also home to a unique boarding school known as the Secondary School of Forestry and Woodworking. During the summer months this school’s dormitory functions as a hostel with a very cool vibe.

Tuesday (7/5). Postojna cave was first discovered in 1818 and almost immediately opened for tourists. Understandable! It is so large that visitors ride an electric train through the cave for over a mile before getting out to walk. In spite of its size, seemingly every square inch is covered with fascinating mineral deposits and formations. We suffered a little sticker shock, but ultimately were glad we stopped.

We left Postojna midday and had our first taste of cycling in Slovenia. Every cyclist we met who had spent time in Slovenia raved about its beauty. They weren’t exaggerating! It is every bit as lovely as we’d been led to believe. In fact, when we dream about cycling, we dream about cycling through places like this.

We had visions of riding to Goritzia today. The weather had a different vision of how the day should go. We found shelter as one thunderstorm rolled over. We made it as far as Crnice when the second big storm of the day caught us. Weather radar showed massive cells covering the entire region. We retreated to the sole guest house in town. What a treat. We were graciously received by the host, whose family happens to be third generation wine makers. She happily shared the fruits of their labor. Simply the best wine I’ve ever had! Since their wine is only made and sold in this region of Slovenia, a happy memory is all I’ll be able to take with me.

Wednesday (7/6). Today confirmed our first impressions of Slovenia. We enjoyed some of the best cycling of the trip. Bucolic countryside. Charming villages. Excellent roads. Dedicated bike paths. Drivers who are almost embarrassingly gracious. Stunning mountains. Crystal rivers. Lush forests. Wonderful people. This trip just keeps getting better and better.

Our route today took us west to Nova Gorica, with a slight detour into sister city Goritzia so we could say we cycled in Italy. Then it was north along the Soca River into the Julian Alps, named in antiquity for Julius Caesar. Again, this day had everything that makes cycling great.

Our day ended at a campground in Tolmin where we met Rik from the Netherlands. He and some friends had planned a holiday in Croatia…so he decided to ride rather than fly. Why not? After a sticky morning spent climbing into the Alps, we enjoyed cooling off in the local stream, watching the Tour and Tennis on the camps two big screen TV’s, and talking life with Rik.

Thursday (7/7). Today…Tolmin to Bovec. Just “Wow!” We dove deeper into the heart of the Julian Alps following the Soca River. We arrived in Bovec and found a quaint village that is an adventure sport hot spot. We set up at a local campground and while sheltering from another massive rain, we quickly decided to spend tomorrow off the bikes exploring this area.

Friday (7/8). These mountains caused an itch that needed to be scratched. We forked over some euros for a gondola ride 5,500 vertical feet up to the top of the local ski area. Being at eye level with the surrounding sea of peaks was worth the price of admission. Eventually the wind chill sent Sharon down. I headed a bit higher and eventually stood atop Prestreljenik. I was impressed by a) the ragged peaks stretching off in every direction, and b) the fact that this remote location was actually a battlefield in WWI. It beggars belief!

Saturday (7/9). We wanted to head north from Bovec and had two options. An Austrian couple I met on the mountain yesterday said. “The Soca River valley is the most beautifullest place. You must go that way.” Can’t argue with such high praise! I’m glad we didn’t. We stopped repeatedly to take in the beauty. We also stopped repeatedly during our five thousand vertical feet of climbing. It was definitely a day of superlatives. The mountains. Both the difficulty and reward of tackling Vrsic Pass.. The number of cyclists and motorcyclists joining us on the climb and descent. And finally, our amazing camp along the Sava River. Slovenia brought its “A” game today! Well played Slovenia.

Prior to Slovenia, week after week of sticky mid 90′ was sucking the life and joy from us and from the trip. Slovenia has literally been a breath of fresh air. We were beginning to look forward to being done with the ride just to be done with the heat. We are both feeling reinvigorated. Thank you Slovenia. We are very much looking forward to seeing what else we can discover in this magical place.

OTRA – Across the Pond #18

On July 3, 2022July 3, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road2 Comments

Croatia (Days 104 – 110)

Sunday (6/26). Today is day 104 of our trip. That officially makes this our longest trip ever. One day longer than last summer’s AK-Western states trip. I find it surprising that three and a half months can pass by so quickly, and the month we have left seems like such little time.

I mentioned in the last post that we both had been feeling unwell. Given recent history, somehow neither of us considered a certain possibility until suddenly it dawned on me.. Wait a minute! You don’t think…?

Courtesy of Darth Covid – the evil Sick Lord, we now face several days of isolation and enforced rest. Since we don’t feel great anyway, this is no big deal. Pro? Zadar looks like a cool town in which to spend a few days. Con? We are limited to what we can see of Zadar from our bedroom window. Pro? We have a good view. All day long and into the evening people congregate and wander through the square below us. Kids play soccer there, using a church built in 1175ad as a backstop. Quite excellent people watching.

Monday (6/27).

Tuesday (6/28).

Wednesday (6/29).

We’ve done our time! Apart from some residual fatigue, we are now symptom free and free to roam. We used that freedom to hop a ferry and enjoy some fresh air on our faces. We arrived on the island of Krk at the hottest part of the day. Fresh off bed rest, it seemed like a safety issue to avoid hills and heat! So, we prudently found shade next to the water. I sat there with Sharon, we sat there, we two. And I said, ‘I’m so glad we have nothing to do. Too hot to go out and too hot to play ball. We should sit by the beach and do nothing at all.’ And that’s what we did.

Thursday (6/30). To reunite Sharon with her wallet, Anna sent it to Peter, a Warmshower host in Kraljevica, about eighteen miles from our current location. We know Anna sent it Tuesday. We don’t know when it will arrive. Which raises the question posed by The Clash, “Should I stay or should I go?” Should we stay put and wait to hear that it arrived? Should we go with the hope that it will arrive? We decided to go…toward Kraljevik and see the island in baby steps. Next stop? Seven miles to Vrbnik. Good idea. Good because Vrbnik is a beautiful city. Good because Vrbnik is only seven miles away, and apparently not having symptoms is not the same as being fully recovered. The climb to Vrbnik purt’ near killed us. Also good because we found a shady cave next to the beach where we could enjoy the day, and recover from our massive seven mile ride.

Friday (July 1). A new month! The Tour de France kicks off! All our Canadian friends get to celebrate Canada Day! And we, well we got to wander far off of Krk’s beaten paths. We wandered past tiny secluded beaches tucked in amongst the rugged shore line. We once again escaped the afternoon’s worst heat at a shady beach. We scored more good pizza. And finally, Sharon found us a gem of a camp site. Our Croatian “Beach Holiday” bike tour continues.

Saturday (7/2). Word on the street is that the package did not arrive yesterday. That means we need to remain in the area until Monday at least. So, again decision time. Should we stay where we are near Cizici, hang at the beach all day and camp again? Not a bad option. Should we explore some more of Krk, cross to the mainland and see what Kraljevica is all about? Maybe. No easy answers, no bad choices. Finally just to make a decision, we chose to head toward the mainland.

Along the way we met two young south bound cyclists. Like many others we’ve met, they set out on this multi month trip with almost no previous cycle touring experience. Carol and Hannah are heading south to Greece. End of August they will ferry to Italy and continue their ride from there. Ambitious! Always fun expanding our circle of friends and fellow explorers.

Our crossing from Krk to the mainland was mostly uneventful. Given that we had to negotiate bumper to bumper traffic across a massive bridge, with no shoulder, bike lane or pedestrian walkway – I’d say mostly uneventful is a win. Kraljevica was also mostly uneventful. It is a pleasant enough town. Let’s just say though, it does not seem to be overrun by tourists.

During his dictatorship of Yugoslavia, Josip Broz “Tito” regularly lived and the traveled the world in luxury aboard the ship “Galeb”. Apparently he was slightly more ‘equal’ than his communist brothers and sisters. This ship is currently berthed at Kraljevica’s shipyard undergoing restoration. When finished, it will be anchored at Rejika and will serve as both museum and hotel. It is quite a sight.

In 2017, local boy Bruno Kurolt died in an automobile accident. In memory of the young man, his family organized what has become a major soccer tournament. It is 5v5 on an enclosed concrete pitch about the size of a basketball court. Intense action, energetic crowds, and some crazy good ball skills were all on display.

This has been a unique week. It is the first time either of us has been sick in over two and a half years! Given that it was covid that felled us, the fall wasn’t too bad thanks no doubt to vaccines and boosters. It very well may be our lowest mileage week ever, having traveled just over thirty miles. While very different than our norm, it was still an enjoyable week. We watched shows, read, researched and relaxed. Being forced to slow down is not always bad. Having said that we are both excited to learn that this prolonged heat may break this coming week. We are excited to feel better and move on to new and different places. I believe the next week will look very different than this past week. Let’s hope anyway. Until then…STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #17

On June 26, 2022November 10, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road3 Comments

Croatia (Days 97 – 103)

Sunday (6/19). Today we joined the throngs of tourists being shown around Old Town Dubrovnik. The majority were there to see the sites where “Game of Thrones” scenes had been filmed. We settled for just learning some history. As always, the ancient kind was fascinating, but the most compelling history took place 30 -ish years ago. As Yugoslavia broke apart, Croatia voted for independence. The remnant of Yugoslavia and Serbia weren’t having it, and war followed. As part of that war, the Serbian military shelled Old Town Dubrovnik. It served no military purpose other than to kill civilians and destroy their homes. Our tour guide lived through that horror and shared his story. From a vantage point overlooking the city, you can see a few buildings that still have yellow roof tiles dating back centuries. By far, the majority of houses and buildings are sporting new red tiles. These were donated by France and were used to repair damage from the war.

Left: New red tiles. Right: Old yellow tiles. Notice all the red!

Monday (6/20). Dubrovnik was turning out to be such an intriguing city that we extended our stay. First order of business – purchase ferry tickets and make sure our bikes can come along. Check and check. Next up – spend the day at a beach. Check. Finally, soak up the ambience of Old Town with an evening stroll. Big check. Interesting side note: the fortifications here are truly one of the more impressive features of the city. Through skillful diplomacy (and bribery) the walls never had to repel an attacker. And when in 1808 Napoleon showed up with his army on one side of town, and the Russians on the other, the city leaders threw open the gates to Napoleon. Lesser of two evils, they figured.

Tuesday (6/21). We said good-bye to Dubrovnik and boarded our ferry to Mljet. No real plan other than to arrive late morning, ride the island and find a place to camp. When Mljet came into view, it was if plans to build a second island were canceled and all the extra material had been piled onto Mljet. Biking here looked to be a challenge. It was. By chance we happened to meet Anne and Marcillen just before leaving the ferry terminal. We appeared to have traveled almost the same route through Turkey and beyond, but somehow never crossed paths. They were catching a ferry after having spent several days on Mljet. We parted with hopes of meeting again.

As is often the case when biking is difficult, it is also amazing. As we left Sobra and ascended the spine of the island, to the left we looked out over the Adriatic, to the right a mainland peninsula, and all around at Mljet itself. The scenery and lack of traffic made it all so worth while. Practically melting by days end though, we made our way to Camp Lovor near the little village of Kozarica. After securing a site, we immediately made our way to the beach for a cooling dip and shade.

Wednesday (6/22). Anna shared a shortcut to take us back to the main road. What a delightful way to start the day – sneaking past three large hills.

Clearly the island of Mljet is no secret in the tourist world. Dozens of sailboats, yachts, and small cruise ships ply these waters. I found out that one ship drops off its forty passengers on a different island or port every day to roam on e-bikes. I believe my loathing was entirely justified as they effortlessly zipped uphill past us.

At the top of one such hill, we met three young ladies (Julia, Lucia, Elodie) who, like us, were cycling under their own power. Their two month ride was also their first ever bike tour. I am so impressed by the people who set off on ambitious journeys like theirs with little or no experience. Happily we met up later on the ferry to Split and traded stories and plans. They were heading inland to see some of Croatia’s famous natural wonders. We decided to enjoy more of the coast. One never knows when our paths may cross again. If not, “Bon voyage et bon chance!”

Thursday (6/23). Our next goal is the city of Zadar, roughly 100 miles up the coast. It’s primary attraction is that ferries from there serve the northern islands. With our early start, we arrived at Rogoznica by early afternoon. Somehow, many of these harbor cities manage to be tourist magnets and yet maintain an old world charm. The harbor at Rogoznica was filled to overflowing with yachts and charter sailboats. The usual shops and restaurants line the harbor, seeking to pry some cash from all these travelers. And yet at a small beach nearby, a fireman lounged in a hammock. Local boys acted like fools to impress local girls. (didn’t seem to work). Mothers talked while keeping tabs on naked toddlers playing at water’s edge. Old men sat and smoked, and one could imagine, traded stories of how life was when they were young. And on this day, two tired cyclists from far away, swam, sat in the shade, and watched life go by. Ad I said, charming.

Friday (6/24). If asked to explain why we travel by bicycle, I would probably point to a day like this. We cycled on a lightly traveled coastal road. At every village we would exit the main road and cycle through town, usually along the beach. Occasionally we took a quick dip in the ocean to cool off. Other times we sat in the shade, enjoying a snack and watching people going about their business. Yes, it was hot, but not unbearable. Yes, there were hills – but we also enjoyed the inevitable gravity assist. After our usual 40+ miles we arrived at Pirovac. Later that evening we joined the throngs strolling the seashore promenade. We watched some seriously competitive bocce players. We enjoyed some live music in the city square. This was a day featuring everything you could ask of a bike tour.

Saturday (6/25). I felt tired yesterday, but we did ride over forty miles, and it was hot. Nah! That wasn’t it. During the night, I dreamt I was sick. Guess what? I woke up with a head ache and sore throat! How weird is that? Still it didn’t seem serious, so off we went on yet another pleasant day of coastal riding. Especially after we hopped a ferry to an island off the coast. Once there, traffic was non-existent along tiny seaside lanes. Perfection. Another ferry dropped us off in Zadar.

By the time we arrived at our Airbnb, I was cooked. Whatever bug bit me, bit hard. So rather than sight see Old Town Zadar, I ended a wonderful week, sound asleep at 4:30 in the afternoon. Which, all things considered, is not a bad way to end any week.

With time beginning to wind down on our trip, we’re starting to feel a bit of FOMO (fear of missing out). Crazy right? No sympathy from the working class! “Dave and Sharon only have a month left. Boo hoo!” I get it. But here’s the thing: we could easily spend the rest of our time just in Croatia. But all the other cyclist we’ve met have said, “You HAVE to see Slovenia.” OK. We’re in. But what about Austria? The Alps? Vienna? The Czech Republic? Prague? And we’re so close to Italy. The point is…we’re having great difficulty deciding what to see next. Or more to the point…what places are we not going to see?

Special Mention! During our time on the island of Mljet, Sharon left her wallet at a lunch stop just hours before we caught the ferry to Split. Somehow the restaurant guy figured out that we stayed at Camp Lovor (15 miles away). He contacted Anna who reached out to us, literally as we were trying to figure out where we might have left it. Anna’s daughter drove to pick up the wallet. They offered to drive somewhere else on the island to mail it ahead of us. THANK YOU Anna! Thank you Anna’s daughter! Thank you restaurant guy! There are so many ways this could have turned out differently. Can’t say enough good things about Anna and all the folks there.

OTRA – Across the Pond #16

On June 19, 2022June 19, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road2 Comments

Albania/Montenegro/Croatia (Days 90-96)

Sunday (6/12). We have a pretty short list of requirements for a “perfect” day of riding.

1) Downhill. All day if possible
2) Good weather. Definitely not too hot.
3) Beautiful scenery.
4. Interesting interaction with locals.
5) A nice campsite next to water.
6) Tasty, inexpensive food. (nice, but not critical)

So let’s see. Check. Check. Check. Check. Check, and check! Twenty-five miles mostly downhill from Valbone to the ferry on Komani reservoir. After a brief patch of rain, perfect weather. Unbelievable scenery all day. For two hours on the ferry we chatted with U.S. born Daniela. Daniela’s grandmother and mother emigrated to the States when her mom was fifteen. Daniela was visiting Albanian family with Grandma. She was very knowledgeable about all things Albania and graciously shared. Very interesting. We were also treated to a group of mostly young people singing and dancing traditional Albanian music and dances. We found it fascinating that so many young people have embraced these traditions. After the ferry, on the way to our perfect camp site next to another reservoir, we stopped for a delicious and inexpensive meal. I guess we just had ourselves a perfect day.

Downhill, beautiful, and good weather. Three checks.

Monday (6/13). OK. Right out of the gate we knew Monday was not going to be a perfect day. In spite of an early start…it was hot! Plus, first thing on our plate was a steep climb on something we’d be generous in calling a road. OK, so not perfect – but still an experience we will cherish.

We started the day with no real plan. As the mercury soared Sharon did some math. “You know,” she said, “it’s only 40 more kilometers into Montenegro and a beach!” We had already covered thirty miles, but with the Orb of Death melting my brain, that sounded like a brilliant idea. So fifty-four miles after we left the mountains of Albania, we arrived at a small beach community in Montenegro. Katia welcomed us into her cozy little campground just steps from the Adriatic Sea. First time this trip we’ve paid to stay in an actual campground. It was delightful!

Tuesday (6/14). Today we pretended we were on holiday, rather than a sweat soaked suffer-fest. OK, that’s really not how we think of our trip. Well, except maybe when we’re soaked with sweat, suffering up some stupidly steep and/or long hill/mountain. But not today! Today was a day to lounge on…lounge chairs of all things. A day to swim, to read books, to enjoy some choice people watching. (No body image issues here!). It was a day to meet folks in our campground. First was Marcelle and Marianne. She being of Greek descent, they have run a Greek restaurant in their home in Belgium. As we sat on the beach watching the sun sink into the Adriatic, we played ‘compare’ and ‘contrast’ with M & M. Always interesting to hear about similarities and differences of life elsewhere in the world. We also chatted mit Erich und Frau. He was fascinated with our trip. We were interested in their extensive travel history. They’d visited a very different Turkey twenty years ago, and many times since. They always found it enchanting. This was a very good day.

Wednesday (6/15). Montenegro is filled to overflowing with rugged mountains. When these rugged mountains spill into the sea, they create an intimidating roller-coaster road along the coast. Lovely to look out, challenging to ride.

Given the intimidating road situation, we lowered our expectations just a bit. We set out for Petrovac and Perazica Do a short distance up the coast. Petrovac was typically touristic, in large part because the bay and waterfront here are beyond stunning. Which of course means every square inch is devoted to housing and extracting money from…people like us, I suppose.

Mid-afternoon we followed an interesting pathway around a headland and through three long tunnels to arrive at Perazica Do. Not really a ‘town’, this community had an weird ghost town vibe. Towering over the beach stands a massive abandoned concrete structure – Hotel As. At one point, this was the crown jewel of state owned resorts in former Yugoslavia. It had however, like its owner, fallen into disrepair. In 2001 the Montenegro government sold the neglected property in an illegal sweetheart deal to some Russians and well connected Montenegro insiders. Massive amounts of money changed hands, people got rich, and some initial concrete work was done. The rich, having gotten richer, moved on. The empty hulk remains.

We briefly contemplated camping in the deserted penthouse suite, but opted instead for something closer to the water. Probably one of our more interesting camp sites.

Thursday (6/16). Recently the heat and humidity have reached the ‘oppressive’ level on the Dave and Sharon ‘whinge about the weather’ scale.’ Our 6:30 start to beat the heat was only moderately successful. Turns out the heat is an even earlier riser. Sneaky bastard! One positive consequence of the early start was that by 1pm we’d notched a respectably forty miles and were enjoying a shaded lounge chair on a Herceg Novi beach. (It’s a safety issue).

We also used the time to plan some next steps. We thought we wanted to wander up the coast. After dealing with the heat and the intense traffic associated with intensely touristic areas, we’re now having second thoughts. By evening’s end we had some solid ideas.

Friday (6/17). After a pleasant afternoon yesterday we thought, let’s spend another day here. Maybe we could check out Old Town. I know it seems like we’ve had lots of down time, but that has been intentional. One of our goals has been to not constantly move from point A to point B. Instead, wander around and spend time exploring point A. Pull up a lounge chair and relax at point B if the mood strikes. The mood struck!

Saturday (6/18). Five miles up, we were treated to this sight.

By the standards of other Balkan travelers we’ve met, Croatia gets dismissed as too touristy and too expensive. We were prepared to similarly dismiss Croatia. After one day here, I can say that it is definitely popular. But I guess that happens to places that are charming, and historic, and beautiful. We rather enjoyed meeting other cyclists at a 15th century monastery, and riding through a lush valley and vineyards tucked between dramatic mountains. Even though the mountain road was crazy busy, the view of the Adriatic far below made it worth while. And yes, historic Old Town Dubrovnik is over run with tourists…I am reminded of the t-shirt that said, “You aren’t stuck in traffic – you are traffic.” Yep! That’s us.

We can also say that Croatia is more expensive than other Balkan countries. Which means that in this very popular, beautiful place things cost about what you would expect to pay in just about any town, anywhere in the U.S. And in massively touristy areas like Old Town Dubrovnik, maybe even less than similar touristy areas in the U.S. – with one important difference. There is no place like this in the U.S.

Three countries in one week. Countries that all share dramatic beauty and tragic history. All inviting in unique ways. We are looking forward to getting acquainted with just this one country. Until next week – be well and STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #15

On June 12, 2022June 12, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road1 Comment

Kosovo/Albania ( Day 83 – 89)

Sunday (6/5). Before arriving in Prizren our plan had been to stay one night and move on. Then we saw Prizren! It deserved more than the few hours we were prepared to give it, so we spent an extra day in town. Running errands, exploring more of this ancient city, and relaxing indoors out of the heat.

Monday (6/6). Throughout the day, Kosovar friendliness was once again on full display. On the way out of town we made a quick stop to check the map. Almost immediately Dimi came out and asked if we needed anything. This led to a longer conversation, which of course led to us being given an ice cream for the road. During a rest stop I entered a small market. The clerk asked “tourist?” When I answered “yes” he refused to let me pay. A few minutes later, we had a Google translate conversation with two locals. As we prepared to leave, they insisted on giving us drinks to take along. These, and so many other, goodwill gestures are offered with such sincerity the only possible response is with our equally sincere, hand on the heart “Thank You!!“

We spent the day riding on beautiful country roads, dodging thunderstorms and following some interesting routes offered up by our mapping apps. After a particularly nasty storm caught us, we were sloshing along pondering the unpleasant prospect of putting up our tent in a driving rain. Out of nowhere we chanced upon a lovely restaurant/hotel. A hot shower and warm meal wasn’t a hard sell.

Tuesday (6/7). We normally get excited about entering a new country, but leaving Kosovo was a sad day. In our short time here, we’ve grown to love the people of this country. Again today, at lunch, a gentleman asked where we were from. When he heard “America“, he smiled, put his hand on his heart and said, “God bless America! God bless America! Safe travels.” To that I say, “Thank you! And God bless the people of Kosovo!”

We had heard many good things about Albania. Our first day did not disappoint. From the border we rolled mostly downhill through mountainous terrain. Just before the town of Bajram Curri we stopped on the bank of the Valbone River to camp for the night. We briefly enjoyed the company of a herd of goats, a fisherman, and a family cooling off in the river. After that blissful solitude and the sound of rushing water.

Wednesday (6/8). Noah, the Brit living in France, cycling to Istanbul said the scenery around Bajram Curri was out of this world! Good call Noah. We arrived in Bajram Curri, got new sims, cash and breakfast, and left on a low gear slog to the end of Valbone Valley National Park. Not even riding through a gully washer dampened our excitement. This place is amazing. Near the end of our 3,000 foot climb, the clouds parted enough to reveal just how amazing. Unfortunately the weather will dictate how much we get to see. As if to emphasize that point, the skies opened and lightning struck a transformer, knocking out power to the whole community.

Thursday (6/9). Much to our surprise we woke to blue skies. Determined to firmly seize this weather window, we ate and immediately set out to tackle a nearby climb. And climb we did. Two thousand feet nearly straight up. At least it was hot and sticky – and so worth it. Apparently this trail is part of a transnational backpacking / hiking trail known as “The Peaks of the Balkans” trail. We met a father/daughter duo backpacking the route. Sounds and looks incredible. (More details here: http://www.peaksofthebalkans.com/ ) We soaked in the views from our high point… until the first rumble of thunder. We made a hasty retreat to our guest house just as another storm unleashed. That led to a long, lazy, wet afternoon. Our host apologized for the power still being out by bringing two glasses of home made rakija. It was a good day!

Friday (6/10). Rest day. ‘Nuf said. We did learn some interesting bits from our host. One of eight children, he was born and raised in Valbone. His parents survived life under the psychopathic dictator Enver Hoxha. During his rule somewhere between 175,000 and 750,000 machine gun bunkers were built…in seemingly random locations. Paranoid much? They are still visible here in the valley and all over the country. Because Valbone is close to a border, during the Hoxha era 2,000 soldiers were stationed here. Our host said that a soldier would be posted every 25 meters. (Probably more to keep people in than to prevent an outside attack). Hoxha was a true communist believer who cut ties with both Russia and China for not being communist enough. He had as many as 25,000 people killed for not supporting his vision of communist paradise. This while he lived in a private compound filled with every western luxury imaginable. The Albanian people have had to work hard to overcome Hoxha’s “legacy.”

Saturday (6/11). Turns out, our last full day in Valbone Valley was the official start of the tourist season here. This special occasion was marked by traditional music and dancing as part of the festivities. When the dancing ended and politicians started droning, we rode and hiked to the end of the Valley. No matter how much we stand and stare, we just never get tired of the views.

Thus ends another week. In the morning we leave Valbone with only a vague idea of what comes next…as usual. We are pretty stoked to find out. Until then…STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #14

On June 5, 2022June 5, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road6 Comments

(Days 76 – 82) Bulgaria/Macedonia/Kosovo

Sunday (5/29). Playing tag with T-Storms in the mountains is not recommended. If you get tagged, you’re not “it” – you’re dead. Having played a lengthy game of ‘tag’ yesterday, and with severe storms in the forecast again, I felt comfortable spending an extra day in Sapareva Banya. The city is most well known for thermal pools, popular since Roman times for their healing proprties. There is little evidence of that thermal activity today. A broken down fountain and a small bubbling spring were all I saw on an early morning walk. The town itself is rather agreeable, nestled in the Rila Mountains with a view down across a broad valley. Apart from a few locals enjoying their coffee, I had the town to myself as I strolled through the side streets and neighborhoods.

Talk about noisy neighbors…

The predicted storms did eventually arrive, and repeatedly knocked out power. Seemed like a good day to be inside taking care of finances and working on the blog.

Monday (5/30). Today was the quintessential touring day. No set destination – just a direction. No idea what lay ahead – just curiosity. First stop was Dupnitsa. Like so many towns in Bulgaria, it has a beautiful natural setting. It sprawls comfortably along the banks of the Dzhermann River deep in the river valley. That beauty is somewhat offset by the blight of Soviet era apartments. Eyesores when new, their decaying concrete hulks exude a sad, grim air wherever they exist. I try to ignore them. I found a comfortable spot outside a grocery store and enjoyed my spinach/cheese borek, and watched people going about their lives.

That’s pretty much how the day went. More natural beauty. More towns – some charming, some grim. Always interesting people watching. Hard to imagine a more pleasing way to spend a day. I came to rest less than a mile from the border with Macedonia in a lush clearing in the forest next to a small stream. Once again, well played Bulgaria.

As I prepared to leave this country, I had a few thoughts. The Soviet era was not kind to Bulgaria. It appeared not to have left them poised for success in a modern world. We’ve speculated that a possible holdover is the awesome attitude towards customer service. “Hi!”, me smiling. “I’m looking for this part. Do you have this.” Surly look! “No!” Silence. Menacing surly look. “Would it be possible for you to maybe order this?” “No!!! I can’t help you!!“ Commercial grade menacing, surly look. Repeat at grocery stores, restaurants, bike shops, train stations, etc. This was surprising since most people we met were very pleasant and friendly. What I will remember most…every day in Bulgaria was a visual feast. We gorged ourselves on views of mountains and rivers, forests and fields.

Tuesday (5/31). As usual, I woke early. While still supine I gradually engaged the brain. “Hmmm. Lots of condensation…I’ll have to dry the fly during a stop today. Wow! Look at the size of that spider crawling outside the tent! Wait! That spider is INSIDE the tent!!! I do not like spiders. I do not like them here or there! I do not like them anywhere! Especially two feet from my face! Let’s just say that spider shuffled off the mortal coil rather quickly.

With that little adrenaline jolt, I quickly packed, hit the road, and added another stamp to my passport. Welcome to North Macedonia. They wisely placed the border on top of a mountain, so my first impression of North Macedonia was a ten mile glide into Krina Palanka. The lack of obvious Soviet architecture was a check in the plus column for me. I quickly got a new sim card, a pocket full of new currency and set about the important business of breakfast. I spread out some gear to dry and started cooking breakfast. I was apparently giving off a slightly homeless vibe because two police officers came by to check me out. Satisfied that I was a harmless Americanski senior citizen, they wished me safe travels.

When we parted a few days ago, Sharon went to Sofia as part of a plan to take a train to the sea shore of Montenegro. Great plan, except for the Rube Goldberg routing necessary to make it happen. Plan B? A bus to Skopje, Macedonia. Faster, cheaper and more directly on the path to the sea. Happily it also was on my route across the country.

Starting the day I had a vague idea of trying to cover all 74 miles from the border to Skopje. Opposing that idea were my late start from Palanka, a plethora of ups and downs, and the Orb of Death doing its best to melt me. As the day wore on though, I continued to feel good. I did not see a place that made sense to stop. I continued to calculate time and distance and it continued to seem possible. Twelve hours after climbing onto the saddle, I fell into the loving arms of my beautiful bride. OK…”into the arms” in a figurative sense since I was a smelly, sweaty mess and she wanted nothing to do with me. But you get the picture.

Wednesday (6/1). We set out today to remedy our woeful ignorance of Macedonia. We learned that because of it’s location as a crossroad between west and east, pretty much everyone with an army at one point or another had Macedonia under their thumb. They are immensely proud that on September 8th, 1991 they gained their independence…peacefully. We learned that in July, 1963 70% of the city of Skopje was destroyed in a massive earthquake. It left 200,000 people homeless. Unfortunately, the solution to quickly rebuild? You guessed it. The famous Soviet concrete apartments. In the last 20 years however, the city poured money into rebuilding and beautifying the downtown area. They have succeeded!

As we touristed Skopje, we talked about next steps. After several days on her own, mostly off the bike, Sharon felt ready to climb back on. That decision led us to rethink routes and priorities. With endless possibilities come endless decisions we have to make. Eventually we settled on a route north into Kosovo, then west into Albania. You could put everything I know about Kosovo on the head of a pin and still have room for some dancing elephants. So we shall see…

Thursday (6/2). Ben was twelve years old when war came to his small village in Southern Kosovo in the late 90’s. To escape the bloodshed, many in the region boarded a train to Macedonia. Not sure about all the details, but Serbians with Kalashnikovs either fired on the train or just forced it to turn back. Soon after, he and his family hiked for two days with no food over the 8,000′ Ljuboten peak into Macedonia. The U.S. and European allies arrived in an effort to stop the killing. It was messy and difficult. Life was uncertain. But to this day, what every Kosovar knows deep in his or her soul, is that U.S. efforts saved lives. Their gratitude knows almost no bounds. That’s a powerful perspective we don’t often get to experience first hand. U.S. aid, in whatever form, often has a very real impact on peoples’ lives.

When Ben found out we were Americans, he told us his story and invited us to spend the evening. That was the beginning of a day like no other. We spent the day in Kacanik waiting for Ben to take care of personal matters in Skopje. A handful of people joined forces to help us find a sim card. Then a shopkeeper gifted us some ice cream when he discovered we were Americans. A woman in a park gifted us clothes – just because she was nice. We stopped at a young man’s coffee shop to wait out some rain. We had a lovely chat and he sent us on our way with bottled water and some chocolate. All day long people stopped to chat and profess their love for America.

Ben was delayed, so we arrived in his village of Bigec before him. No problem! Everyone who saw us made it their mission to direct us to the right place and make sure we were comfortable and felt welcomed. We ended up on a neighbor’s porch with drinks and snacks with Albert serving as translator. When it was determined Ben might not make it back until late, phone calls were made and instantly dinner and another place to stay was arranged. In spite of the language barrier, we had wide ranging conversations. Everyone had a gut-wrenching story to tell about the war, and repeatedly shared their gratitude for America’s efforts in bringing it to an end. It was surreal. It was wonderful. It was the best day ever. Eventually Ben arrived and we returned to his home to sleep. Thank you Ben, Albert, Horuni, Ilir, Ibrahim and all the others whose names I can’t remember. Thank you for giving us the best day of our trip.

Friday (6/3). We could have stayed in Bigec forever, but our goal today was Prizren. Standing in the way was a 23 mile climb to Prevalla. Ben loves to mountain bike and had always dreamed of making the trip to the top of the pass. We set out early and 5-ish hours later arrived. Ben was an excellent tour guide, sharing details about the villages, the mountains, and the history of the area. It was hard. It was fascinating. And all too soon, it was over. After lunch in Prevalla, Ben headed home. Thank you again for giving us memories we will always cherish! Prevalla was so beautiful, we decided to spend the night at 5,000 feet in the mountains.

Saturday (6/4). When you find yourself in mountains so similar to Colorado’s San Juan peaks, there’s only one thing to do…climb higher! And so we did. Along the way we met Tirana the shepherd and walked with him a bit. He knew two English words, so we didn’t speak much. But he pointed out beautiful smelling flowers, and all the other ‘fantastic‘ things he loved about his work place. We parted “Tiran, David – mik, friend”.

It felt good to hike in the mountains! Later it felt good to sit in the shade with a cold drink looking up at the mountains where we’d been. Later still, it felt good to ride down the mountains, even in a bit of rain. Seventeen glorious miles down to Prizren.

It is hard to get my head around how many experiences get crammed into one week. One week ago I was riding solo through Bulgaria. Now Sharon and I are happily hanging in Prizren with…who knows what lies ahead. I love our life right now. I hope you find ways to love your life as well. STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #13

On May 29, 2022May 29, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road2 Comments

Bulgaria 🇧🇬 ( Days 69 – 75)

Sunday (5/22). Sharon hit a bit of a wall yesterday. She rallied, but again today her heart just wasn’t in it. We biked into Kardzali and found a small bus heading to Plovdiv. Sharon went on ahead to get some mental R & R. That spared her two difficult days in the mountains and gave her an opportunity to relax and explore. On her own for the first time in 10 weeks I might add. The highlight of her evening was happening upon locals practicing traditional folk dancing. Sharon ended up chatting with sixteen year old Stella and got the scoop. People like Stella all the way to oldsters like us meet every Sunday to practice. Apparently every song has its own unique dance steps. Stella loves the dancing and keeping alive this bit of history.

Folk dancing in the park every Sunday

While Sharon was making new friends in Plovdiv, I spent a beautiful day crossing the mountains. Rustic villages dot the rolling hills and valleys. Occasionally the road ascends into lush forests. It all combines for pleasant biking. Unfortunately on this day I struggled to find a discreet place for camp and ended up continuing long after I had hoped to stop. Finally beyond Novakovo I followed a gravel road to a small reservoir, and a perfect place to spend the night. Just me, two stray dogs, and a stork.

Monday (5/23). If you’ve been following our travels for a while, then you know that bicycle touring is not all unicorns and fairy dust. Today proved that. Last night Sharon treated herself to beer, a burger and, it turns out, a generous helping of food poisoning. Her relaxing rest day in an exotic location has been filled with countless short trips between the loo and bed.

During my ride to Plovdiv, the scenery was pleasant…the drivers not so much. A semi driver with a low opinion of cyclists refused to give me any extra room, but did treat me to a 15 second blast from his air horn while passting! Thanks! Twice I had to dive off the road to avoid being pancaked by oncoming vehicles who just had to pass, in spite of my presence in their passing lane. I hope a certain rude gesture translates accurately into Bulgarian. And for some reason, all my friendly greetings received stony glares in return. (I thought I was saying hello…?) So while we have met some wonderful folks here in Bulgaria, not all are “full of the milk of human kindness.” On top of all that, I had two broken spokes that needed mending! Oh joy! Some days you’re the pigeon, other days you’re the statue. Today was definitely a statue kind of day.

The question arises, what to do on the days when you are feeling shat upon by the metaphorical ‘pigeons’ of life? I choose to focus on the positives. And even on this day, there were plenty of positives. Sharon was sick in a beautiful location in comfy surroundings. I was able to make the bike rideable again. That’s a check in the plus column. In Asenovgrad I bought a pastry from a sour looking woman. After a few bites I said in Bulgarian that “it was very good.” Her face absolutely lit up in a smile that made my day! Again in Bulgarian I asked what it was called. “Kifla” she replied and said more that I didn’t catch. I assume she was either complimenting me on my good taste or my fluent Bulgarian.”In the immortal words of rapper Ice Cube, “Today I didn’t even have to use my AK, I gotta say it was a good day.” Seems like you’re setting the bar a little low there Ice, but I gotta say, in spite of it all, it was a good day.

Tuesday (5/24). We set out to join a guided walking tour of town. Instead of finding our guide, we found thousands of participants in the May 24th celebration of the birth of the Cyrillic alphabet. Really! This is a seriously big deal and has been celebrated in Plovdiv since 1851. We abandoned our walking tour plans and just went with the flow.

Following the parade we took a walk through the Kapana neighborhood. For many hundreds of years, this part of town was where crafts people operated. During the Communist era, they kicked out the capitalist pigs and padlocked all the houses and shops. Only since the collapse of Soviet Union has the area been revitalized as an arts district. It is filled with appealing restaurants, bars, art galleries and some seriously cool street art.

After rest (Sharon) and errands (Dave) we joined the crowds for their evening stroll in the Tsar Simeon park across from our apartment. Eventually we came to rest on a comfy perch and just watched people. Parents and/or grandparents with young children, young people in love and others just messing about, friends walking arm in arm, old people in love, people alone with their thoughts…everyone was out enjoying a beautiful spring evening.

Wednesday (5/25). Today Adi shared her knowledge of Bulgaria in general, and Plovdiv in particular. Adi is a “Free Walking Tour” guide. These tours are common throughout Europe. You sign up or show at a specific time and place, and a highly trained guide shares his or her knowledge of a place. The tour truly is free. At the start, the guides say that if we enjoy the tour we can support them with a donation. We have always found great value in the tours, and that was the case again today. It was a little like trying to drink from a fire hose! There is clearly much to be learned about a city that has been continuously inhabited for 6,000 years.

During the tour there is time to chat in between stops. We connected with Natalia from Russia. Very interesting to learn a bit about her life. After the tour we went out for lunch with Jurgen and Andrea from Germany. As always, we enjoyed swapping travel stories as well as exchanging questions and answers about life in Germany and the US.

Thursday (5/26). Somewhat reluctantly we left Plovdiv this morning. We are typically not impressed by large cities, but we found much to admire here. We ended the day after forty-five unremarkable miles, camped next to the beautiful Maritsa River. It provided a much need bath after a 90 degree day. We are now poised to enter the realm of snow capped peaks.

Friday (5/27). With the rushing river nearby and mild temps, it was a perfect night. We began our climb up mild slopes and arrived at Kostenets late morning. Over lunch, we ended up having quite a serious talk. For some time now, Sharon has been struggling mentally with the day to day grind of cycling. We’ve tried different strategies to keep it enjoyable. Finally though, when it stops being fun, it’s time to change the plan. After considering lots of options and different scenarios, Sharon decided to leap ahead by train to a pleasant beach town in Montenegro. Two weeks later, more or less, I should arrive there via bicycle. It will be a major adjustment for both of us to be alone. But hopefully by the time we reunite, we’ll have a good idea what the rest of trip may look like. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out privately.

Saturday (5/28). It was a sad to part ways, but I think we are both excited to see how this works, and to embark on our separate adventures. Sharon caught a train to Sofia. I turned west – and up into the Rila Mountains. For hours while I labored in my low gears, lightning thundered and crashed all around. It was really spectacular. When rain finally came, I’d found a lunch spot to wait it out. When this storm cell blew itself out, I made a break. I was fifteen miles farther down the road before the skies opened again. This time I took cover in a bus shelter in Klisura. After several hours of noise and fury and hard rain with no sign of it stopping, I broke out the rain gear. Ten wet miles later, I arrived at a guest house in Sapareva Sapareva Banya.

And that, my friends, is where this week ends. Two solo travelers spending a last day or two in Bulgaria before moving on. Hope you are enjoying your own adventures! STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #12

On May 22, 2022May 22, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road2 Comments

Turkey 🇹🇷 / Bulgaria 🇧🇬 (Days 62 – 68)

Sunday (5/15). What a wonderful way to wake up…with the sound of the sea gently lapping on the shore just feet from our door. Thanks again Cuneyt.

This may surprise you, but having too many options is a problem. We booked our return flight home from Prague, so we have a goal. But how to get there? “Ay, there’s the rub.” Everyone who has cycled the Balkan peninsula has shared hidden gems we have to see! But every “yes” to one direction means saying “no” to countless others. What might we miss? Robert Frost said about paths not taken, “Oh, I kept the first for another day! Yet knowing how way leads on to way, I doubted if I should ever come back.” With all that in mind, we chose Bulgaria as our next destination. In part because we know absolutely nothing about it, in part because we like getting off the heavily beaten tourist path, and in part because what we’ve seen on the internet looks amazing. That decision led us to north to Kesan for the night.

Monday (5/16). We set an ambitious goal for the day. Kesan to Edirne…65 miles. We started early to beat the heat and give ourselves time. Good idea! At one stop a stranger gifted us a candy bar. At another, a young man who had spent a year in Montana asked if there was anything we needed, then bought us two bottles of commonly used freshening spray. We were invited for tea by a woman who offered help with directions. We had a long, rambling Google translate chat with Birol at another. We traveled out of our way to take a scenic back route, only to be turned back by a closed bridge. A scenic road we’d hoped to ride along the border with Greece turned out to be OFF LIMITS to cyclists. Oh! That’s what the angry, shouting soldiers with guns are trying to say. Oopsies! A quick Forrest Gump wave (we are not smart cyclists!) and we were on our way…a different way… again! Twelve sweaty hours after we left, we arrived, more than ready to be done. We are looking forward to exploring this historic city… tomorrow! After a shower and good night’s sleep.

Tuesday (5/17). As usual, the term “rest day” is a bit misleading. We still logged ten miles biking around Edirne. Unfortunately the famous Selimye mosque is mostly closed for renovations. The portion we did see was impressive…especially for a 500 year old edifice. The old part of town was nice, but not enough to stay out in the heat.

Shout out to Flagstaff…living the ‘Best Life Ever”

Wednesday (5/18). Today was meant to be a true rest day while waiting for severe weather to pass. I did take the opportunity to give the bikes some love and was very disappointed to find some cracks developing on Sharon’s rear rim. They are not as severe as they were on mine, but the cracks are still a concern, and very frustrating. All the cyclists we’ve met have been out far longer with what appears to be much heavier loads – and no one has had these problems. Perhaps Kona chose a rim not suitable for the demands of world touring in order to reach some price point. Perhaps the spokes we’re not properly torqued in the factory. Whatever, I am not pleased with Kona bikes or WTB rims right now. (Update...WTB has offered to replace the rim. Not sure of the logistics of getting a rim shipped and a bike shop to build a wheel in this part of e world – but good on you WTB).

Poor photo of my rim. Cracks like this in 20 places.

Thursday (5/19). Fifteen miles up the road, one of the busiest border crossings in Europe has people sometimes sitting in queue for 10-12 hours to enter Bulgaria. Or…we could enter Greece for 20 miles, and then cross into Bulgaria. No brainer right? The portion of Greece we visited looked eerily similar to Southern Wisconsin. We had to keep reminding ourselves we were far away from the Dairyland. An added bonus was good flat roads, light traffic, and a wind assist. Every day should be like this. And then – we were in Bulgaria. New stamps in the passport. New language (just when I was getting the hang of Turkish). New currency. Unreadable alphabet. And best of all…37,000 vertical feet of ups and downs to cross the country. Let’s do it!

Friday (5/20). Four miles in our lowest gear to start the day, followed shortly by twenty more. Welcome to Bulgaria! Surprisingly, the hills (mountains) were not the most striking feature here. It’s been said native peoples in Alaska have dozens of words for snow. It would not surprise me if folks in Bulgaria have dozens of words for ‘green’. To quote singer Natalie Merchant, “Emerald green like none I have seen apart from dreams…” Lush fields and forests in all shades of green lined the road, with an unreal blue sky for a back drop. Add to that good roads with almost no traffic…well played Bulgaria – well played!

So, the scenery is nice, what about the people? Half the village of Planinets turned out to help us buy snacks from the mobile market. That help included offers of food and coffee. In Kumovgrad, Emre got us set up with a local sim card. Then, as a fellow cyclist, he spent time offering suggestions for various local landmarks to visit. Esre stopped to chat and shared a bit of her life in Bulgaria. Although young, she loves to travel and was intrigued by our trip.

I know! I keep going on about all the nice people we meet. Here’s the thing – we are far from home, family, friends and the familiar. Just a smile or friendly wave is welcome. When folks stop to chat, offer help, show kindness in some fashion…these are special gifts! I feel compelled to acknowledge them.

Saturday (5/21). Bulgaria is becoming a bit repetitive.

If we continued west on Eurovelo #13, it was going to be “Groundhog Day” with the mountains all the way to the border. The mountains are beautiful,, but twenty mile long climbs are tough – even with a big downhill reward. Over pizza and beer in Momchilgrad near the end of the day, we decided instead to head north to Plovdiv. That will still mean another day of climbing, but then we will descend to a broad valley between two mountain ranges. Seems prudent not to flog ourselves any more than necessary.

It has been quite a week. From a beach hut in Turkey, a quick visit to Greece, and now to the mountains and villages of Bulgaria. Remarkable. Until next week, take care and STC!

OTRA Turkey – Final Thoughts

On May 18, 2022May 18, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road1 Comment

To paraphrase the character Ted Lasso, “You could fill two internets with what we didn’t know about Turkey”. Even after two months, I probably still don’t know what I don’t know about life and culture here. Still, I think there might be some value in sharing a few observations.

I’ll start with a question Sharon and I discussed while riding. What did we find most surprising? We agreed. We had no language skills. We were ignorant of the cultural and social clues that allow one to function in society. Family and friends voiced concerns for our safety. In spite of all that, things felt surisingly…comfortable! In spite of the fact that we were foreigners here…we never felt overwhelmed by the foreign-ness of the place. If we stopped and looked puzzled (often) inevtably someone would come to our aid. Whenever we had a question or difficulty someone would offer a ‘no problem‘ and help to resolve our issue or answer our question. Even those who speak only Turkish know the phrase, ‘no problem!’ Rather than fumble around or wonder, we felt very comfortable just asking for help. People, invariably, did!

And as far as safety concerns, we never felt even the slightest bit concerned for our safety. Well, except when we blundered into a forbidden military zone. OK, and maybe on the road in the presence of taxi drivers. But otherwise, no matter where we were, no matter what we were doing we felt safe and comfortable. And this was no Pollyana-ish wishful thinking. Check it out! The crime rate in Turkey is a fraction of that in even small town USA.

We also discussed our main disappointment. For me it was a lack of language skills that prevented us from making more meaningful connections to people. Late in the ninth inning we did have some wonderful experiences, but the feeling remains. To some extent it is unavoidable. It is also on us to fix…perhaps staying with more English speaking Warmshower hosts. Or having the patience to have more Google Translate conversations.

Top of Sharon’s list would be that over half of all people smoke. By all who know and love her, she is affectionately known as the smoking nazi. But truly, the smell is almost impossible to escape. And all those butts end up, of course, on the ground.

There are other disappointments. Given the natural beauty, it was frustrating to see the amount of garbage everywhere. (e.g. ciggy butts) Granted, considering what happens in the forest around Flagstaff when Phoenix comes up to play, we can’t really claim the moral high ground. But at least around Flag, concerned citizens or groups (shout out to folks like Emily Snelson and Kahtoola) care enough to go out and pick up after slobs. Here – doesn’t seem to be a priority. Given the resources of this country, it was also disappointing to hear of and see the financial struggles of so many people. Especially since much of that seems due to a mismanaged economy. An anual inflation rate of 7% in the US is considered a major crisis. Here the annual rate is officially 50% and in reality is probably closer to 100%! Imagine! People here love their country, but intensely dislike how hard it is to make a living.

Finally, I expect that everyone will want to know, “What was our favorite part?” The beauty of the Mediterranean coastline would certainly be in the running. Words fail! The mountains and snow capped peaks would surely receive a nomination. The entire region of Cappadocia is always a fan favorite. Honorable mention goes to the food! And of course, no list would be complete without the history! Thousands of years of history, nonchalantly on display everywhere you look.

Tough decision! The envelope please! The “Favorite Part of Turkey Award goes to… the people of Turkey! People like Bob and Zeynep who gave us a crash course on everything Turkey and who waited to be sure we had no problems with customs. And, who continued to check in on us to make sure we were doing well. The young man on the scooter who helped guide us through traffic on day #1 and drove off with a hearty, “Welcome to my Country! Enjoy!” Gursoy who flagged us down along highway and insisted we spend the night at his home. His mother who fed us dinner and breakfast. The neighbors who all stopped by for an impromptu party to meet the Americans and further our eduction about Turkey. Ali who saw four cyclists putting on raingear in a downpour, and backed up his semi and insisted on taking us twenty miles down the road to a hotel. My “abi” Cuneyt and family who treated us as family. Not to mention all the strangers, who through their smiles, kind words, and deeds, and gifts made us feel welcome.

Clearly, Turkey is no utopian paradise. No place is. But I hope our experiences here have pulled back the curtain and allowed you a small glimpse and appreciation for a wonderful part of the world. Türkiye’yi seviyoruz!

OTRA – Across the Pond #11

On May 15, 2022May 17, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road1 Comment

Turkey 🇹🇷 (Days 55 – 61)

Sunday – Tues (5/8 – 5/11). Over beers with Antoine, Guenola, and Simon at our hostel in Goreme, I think it was Antoine who said,“It is wonderful that even after traveling for so long, we can still be awed by what we see.” Long term travel has not produced a “been there, done that, got the t-shirt” attitude. Just the opposite!! We all agreed – the more we see, the more we want to see. The more we wonder at the sights, the more we ask ourselves, “What other wonders are yet to be discovered?”

The Cappadocia region certainly has the power to instill awe. It is not just the fairy tale quality of the landscape around Goreme. It also the vast sweep of history represented throughout this region. Everywhere you look you can imagine the presence and lives of ancient people – from the Ihlara Valley, to the underground cities, to the churches and homes carved into the stone around Goreme.

The days have passed quickly here. Filled with hiking, socializing, eating, marveling at the sunrise balloon launches, crepe making lessons, more eating, we daily consider how blessed we are to have arrived in this place. As Guenola says, “eet iz fantasteek!” (It sounds really cool when she says it).

And just like that…our time with Antoine and Guenola came to an end. Bonne chance with the rest of your journey. And just like that…we made new friends. James and Jane (UK) are seasoned travelers out for a few months. We met them in the famous Love Valley. We also met Nadine and Toby (Germany) on a two year break from work world tour. Late into the night we downed Efes and swapped tales of life on the road like old friends.

Wednesday (5/11). Just as in days of old when camel trains passed through here, Goreme has proven to be a cross roads for travelers. After relaxing, exploring and enjoying this magical place for several days, eventually everyone is moving on. Binni, Chris & Patricia, Antoine & Guenola, Milli & Daniela, Toby & Nadine, James & Jane are all continuing to the “-stans” and points farther east. Rather than following the eastward migration, we will take a night bus west to Canakkale. Sixteen hours on a bus seems like one of Dante’s levels of hell. However, it will save us three to four weeks, extra time for cycling through the Balkans.

Thursday (5/12). The reality of the long bus ride was not as bad as the anticipation… even with the bus breaking down. A replacement eventually deposited us on the outskirts of town. Like many others in Turkey, Canakkale is a modern tourist town with history oozing from its pores. Nearby, ancient Troy lies close to WWI monuments to those who fell during the battle of Gallipoli. These are in the shadow of fortresses built by sultans. Simply amazing.

Friday (5/13). Sharon and I spend a lot of time together. 24/7 time. Fortunately we kind of like each other! Still, its nice to have some space once in a while. So after a lie in and breakfast, we went our separate ways to explore the city. Sharon sought out a massive produce market, among other places. I made the rounds of bike shops and neighborhoods. While it does cater to tourists, Canakkale is a real city. Tourists do not outnumber locals as they appear to in other places.

Eventually we met for waterfront beer to discuss not only our day, but our future on this trip, as well as our future travels for the next year. Normally we wouldn’t look that far ahead, but sometimes it is necessary in order to make sure it happens. It was a good day.

Saturday (5/14). As we biked north along the Dardanelles Strait, we began reflecting on our time in Turkey. Specifically, we pondered three questions. 1) What was your favorite part? 2) What was your biggest disappointment? 3) What surprised you the most? For number two, I suggested that the language barrier prevented us from really connecting with folks. Fast forward to late afternoon. We had stopped to survey a beach as a possible camp site when Cuneyt (say Ju-NATE) came over and invited us to have tea with his wife Zerrin, and daughters Azra and Beren (and parakeet Mavish). What followed was magic. We struggled with our Turkish. They practiced their English. Google Translate filled in the gaps. We talked of work, school, boyfriends, life in Turkey, life in America, travel. We laughed freely and often. My “abi” (brother) Cuneyt plied me raki and the whole family laughed at my reaction. When finally they had to leave for home, they insisted that we stay in their hut. An offer we gladly accepted. It was a perfect end to our time in Turkey. çok teşekkürler Cuneyt and family.

Cuneyt, Azra, Beren and Mavish, Zerrin, Azra’s friend Zeynep and her little brother

By next week we will have said good bye to Turkey and entered a new country. Check in next week to see which path we followed. Until then, STC!

Seizing the Carp!

Category: On the Road

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