To stand on the edge of the Grand Canyon is to be amazed. To gaze into the depths and realize you are seeing only a fraction of a percent of the entire Canyon, is to be made to feel very small. Stand on the edge of the Grand Canyon in the middle of a moonless night, gaze into a sky filled to overflowing with brilliant stars, and you “awesome” defined. Stand on the edge of the Canyon and look into the vast inky abyss where the Canyon should be, and the feeling of amazement, smallness and awe is overwhelming. Especially since I was there to run and hike back and forth across that great gulf. Gulp!
A year prior, a friend suggested doing a rim to rim to rim. I believe I let out a snort of derision. I’ve never finished a rim to rim and thought – “Hey, I’d like to do that all over again!” However, preparing for, and completing a long race in Moab earlier in the year had expanded my idea of what is possible (and enjoyable). So after a Canyon bridge was repaired, a separated collar bone had healed, training, schedules and weather all finally aligned so that I found myself in the middle of that aforementioned moonless night, at the s. Kaibab trailhead on a Saturday morning in November.
In spite of a slightly less than optimal forecast, and some rain earlier in the evening, things started out well. Five minutes down the trail I was already peeling off a layer. The familiar territory along the south Kaibab passed quickly. After a quick break at Phantom to fuel up and top off on water, I headed north. It was along this stretch that I hit my only real low point of the day. After a relatively balmy start, a cold wind from the north was blasting down Bright Angel Canyon. KB gear and Gore-tex came to the rescue, but still, it was none too warm. By the time I got close to Cottonwood campground I’d been alone in the dark for 4-5 hours, I was just barely staying ahead of my fuel needs, and I was starting to hear things. Several times I turned around, trying to see whatever animal was stalking the oldest and weakest member of the herd. Turns out it was something in my pack making noise.
The big downer though was the water situation. From Park Service sources online, I had expected to find water at Manzanita and at the north rim trailhead. When I asked the park rangers upon arrival, they assured me that no, the only water was at Cottonwood campground. I was a little surprised, but glad I asked and planned accordingly. To say I was disappointed at finding a dry faucet would be a mild understatement. I had just finished the last of my water. There would be no way to climb 7 miles to the rim, and then 14 miles back to water at Phantom. If I couldn’t get water I would have to cut short my run/hike. I briefly went to an uncharacteristically dark place. But then a quote I recently came across seemed appropriate.
If there is no solution to the problem then don’t waste time worrying about it. If there is a solution to the problem then don’t waste time worrying about it
So, no need to worry. I figured I’d go at least to Manzanita and check for water there. It was only two miles farther. If there was water – problem solved. If not, it wouldn’t be a problem running back to Phantom. So with some fuel on board and a plan in place I felt much better. And, as it turned out, there was water at Manzanita as I’d originally expected – so problem solved.
From that point the real climbing on the n. Kaibab begins…and it was beautiful. Before long the first hint of dawn appeared behind me. Eventually, ever so slowly I could begin to make out my surroundings and I had a geeky “Lord of the Rings” moment. The cliffs and rock features took on the form of “Helm’s Deep” and I could almost imagine an orc army in the valley below. OK…maybe too much alone time! About a mile from the top, I met the first southbound folks and the sun kissing the highest pine trees on the rim pulled me upwards.
There are few things as glorious as the view from the north rim at sunrise, especially after hiking through the night to arrive there. And, unlike every other crossing – I actually did feel like retracing my steps. So I spent a few minutes doing the Verizon reception dance to let folks know I’d made it, and headed back down. I’m not even going to try to try to describe an early morning run down the n. Kaibab…other than to say it was glorious. And, that you really need to do it. Not run necessarily, but in some form or other, travel that trail in the early morning.
In contrast to the cold, dark and solitary journey north, the south bound journey was passed in relative warmth under blue bird skies enjoying the companionship of an ever changing cast of fellow travelers. The only hiccup heading south came a few miles north of Phantom. Some knee and hip pain, likely the result of a tight IT band caused me to stop running. This was not as problematic as it may sound, since the slow shuffle that passes for my running is only slightly faster than hiking.
Had a fun, pleasant conversation at Phantom with Emily from Flagstaff. Sharon caught a ride with her to the Canyon, so I was expecting to run into her. Like many in Flag, Emily was rocking the Canyon trails in preparation for her first ultramarathon in late January. As I climbed away from the river I entered what I like to call my “Sir do you need help finding your walker?” mode. During several food and water rest breaks on the slow slog upwards, I had the opportunity to meet and chat with several other pleasant folks. People who, like Emily, were out enjoying the Canyon as it is really meant to be enjoyed…on foot, relishing the challenge and marveling in the scenery.
The familiar landmarks gradually came and went. Tip off, the switchbacks, Skeleton point, Cedar ridge, Ooh Aah point – and finally – the rim! A quick pic, one last look out at the Canyon, and another grand adventure came to a close. 
Aftermath.
There is a lot of time to think during any endeavor that takes the better part of a day. In the week and a half since (with Thanksgiving in between), I’ve had some time to think more about that day and relive the experience. A few thoughts…
- I am always grateful and feel very blessed to live in Flagstaff with such easy access to such an amazing place.
- I am always grateful for my health and the ability to enjoy the outdoors in unique ways.
- I am especially grateful for my lovely and amazing bride – who by the way, whilst I was out mucking about across the River – just (her word) hiked the 17 miles down the Kaibab, across on the river trail and up the Bright Angel trail in an amazingly short time. Sharon supports, encourages these silly pursuits – and gets after it in her own right.
- A big shout out to Katie Procter. Katie did her own rim to rim to rim two years prior and offered some good advice. And then three days after my run gave me the benefit of her professional massage therapy. aaaaaaaaah! Check her out at the Body Shop – seriously. Katie Procter Massage
- Challenge yourself. Whether its hiking around the block, or across town, or up a mountain or into the Canyon, it feels good to push back the boundaries of what you think you can do. And when you push back boundaries like that, your world gets bigger. Just a warning though – that kind of thinking is dangerous. If I can do this, you think…maybe I can do that!And who knows where that will lead. -Seize the Carp!-
I’ve had some questions about food, so I thought I’d respond here. I have a finicky stomach, so I rely pretty heavily on some tried and true items. I started the day with two breakfast sausage patties = 250 calories. Throughout the day I consumed the following: 9 PowerGels = 990 calories. Two large PayDay bars = 880 calories. 4 slices of bacon = 200 calories? 1 Snickers bar = 215 calories. Tailwind drink mix = 500 calories. So total intake for the day was approximately 3,000 calories. Output was obviously a bit more than that, but fortunately I have a ready reserve of calories permanently stored in a convenient location. I felt like I had sufficient energy all day.