Switzerland, Durango
Day 63: Sunday (10/12/2025). Chris and Patricia took seriously their responsibility to show us only the very best that Swizerland has to offer. Truth is – we didn’t know what we didn’t know. They could have taken us anywhere and we would have been happy.
Ultimately we ended up at the Diemtigtal Nature preserve nestled next to a mountain called Wiriehorn. This was to be no mere hike however. We started with a chairlift ride part of the way up the mountain. We proceeded to hike completely around the mountain. It was a grey, dismal day in Spietz. Here in the mountains, above the clouds, we reveled in bright sunshine.
Back at the chairlift, we enjoyed conversation, cards and adult beverages. Fat tire rental scooters brought us quickly back to the bottom of the hill. Later we met back at the house for the evening ritual of a shared dinner and conversation with the flat mates. As we looked across at the countless peaks of the Alps, I asked if Gerhard had climbed many of the mountains. “Every one you can see!” was the answer! That included the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. Especially impressive considering the “modern” equipment he would have used back in the day.
Day 64: Monday (10/13/2025). Another day – another hike. From the house it again seemed unlikely that we’d see blue skies anywhere. And yet again, our hosts had a trick up their sleeve. We drove up to the village of Beatenburg on the other side of the lake. From there, we hiked farther up – and through – the thick layer of clouds blanketing the valleys. It was another in a long string of spectacular days.
With all that we’ve seen in Switzerland these last ten days, it was hard to imagine finding anything better. And yet…we continued to climb until a sea of clouds below us filled the valleys and stretched as far as we could see in all directions. To the south the Alps spread from horizon to horizon.
Alpine Ibex were hunted to near extinction in these parts. Starting in 1906, efforts were made to bring them back from the brink. If our experience proves anything, those efforts have been successful.
Our long, last day in the mountains concluded with our home made pizza, apple pie, a Swiss dessert called vermicelles, and home made liqueur. Fun stuff.
Day 65: Tuesday (10/14/2025). This is the beginning of the end. In two days we take to the friendly skies from Zurich. Today a train will take us on the next to last leg of our journey home.
We did not waste our final morning in Spiez. As has been our custom, we first enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. Then we all wandered down to the lake to witness Patricia’s daily routine. Whenever possible, she starts the day with a swim. Water temps in the Thunersee this morning were a balmy 52 degrees. Air temperature – the same! Chris and a few other hardy folks joined her. Apparently there are health benefits. I’m sure it was “refreshing.” I was happy to count myself among the spectators.
We made a quick stop at a local cheese shop, then booked passage to Zurich at the local station. As our prepared to leave, we bid our friends a sad “auf wiedersehen.” This is now the third time we have reconnected and been able to spend time with cyclists met on previous trips. It is hard to fathom the almost infinite number of random decisions and choices that somehow led to Sharon, me, Chris and Patricia crossing paths on that particular quay, in that city in Turkey, on that exact moment. We consider ourselves incredibly blessed to have friends like Chris and Patricia in Switzerland, and so many others around the globe. I’m sure I’ve shared this elsewhere, but I love the comment from Tim Cahill. “A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”
Our arrival in Zurich and bike ride to the hotel were mostly unremarkable. What does merit a remark is Switzerland’s amazing public transport. Our train ride could not have been easier, or more comfortable. In Zurich especially, we were amazed by the masses who rode their bikes to the station en route to other destinations. Look at the picture below. Imagine the gridlock on the streets and the parking required if all these people were driving cars and trucks instead of bikes.
Day 66: Wednesday (10/15/2025). Any flight home from anywhere in the world requires boxes for our bikes, and boxes for our clothes and camping gear. It is often a logistical challenge getting boxes, bikes, gear and ourselves to the airport. Fortunately there was a store selling bike boxes in the airport right next to our check-in gate. I took a quick ride to the airport early in the morning to check the route and verify that boxes would be available. All good on that front. We then made the rounds of local businesses trying to find something for our gear. No joy! Eventually I rode to a self-storage company to buy suitable boxes.
With those details settled, we rode the city tram downtown. When in Rome, right? We wandered the streets, poked around in a museum, and did all manner of touristy things for the rest of the day. It was pleasant enough, but the horses smell the barn. This close to departure, we’re now ready to just be on our way.
Day 67-68: Thursday/Friday (10/16-17/2025). We used our headlights for the first and only time on this trip. Sharon indulged my anxious desire to get to the airport super early. Predictably, everything went smoothly so we didn’t need the extra time. Still, it was nice not to be rushed. As has often been the case when we contemplate traveling twenty-four (plus) hours to get home, the thought of it was worse than the reality. The airlines were efficient. People, for the most part, were friendly and chill. And when we think about it for more than a second, the whole process is comically easy. So it was that in the wee hours of Friday morning we set foot in Durango and called this trip complete!
Postscript
The numbers: On this trip we cycled 1,600 human powered miles in 68 days. In Poland, Austria and Switzerland we used buses and trains to travel an additional 550 miles. Interestingly, in the last two weeks, we cycled less than 100 miles. We stayed in a relatively small area of Switzerland, and rather than cycling, we spent most days hiking. We tallied some fifty miles walking in the Alps. We split almost 50/50 between camping and staying in hostels, guest houses, and hotels. Uncharacteristically, most of our camping was in actual campgrounds. We only wild camped two nights. From Helsinki to Zurich, we passed through ten different countries. In the last few years, not counting the U.S., we have now cycled in 25 different countries.
Gear: No flat tires!! That might be a record! In February of this year I took possession of a new bicycle. It was built just for me by Eric Tomczak of Myth cycles right here in Durango. As expected, the fit was perfect. The pinion gearing and belt drive performed flawlessly. And best of all – no wobble from the front end. Last summer we replaced our aging REI Halfdome Plus 2 tent with their updated version. My concerns about durability were misplaced. It is holding up well, weighs less and continues to keep us dry. Couldn’t ask for more.
Thumbs Down on Old Town: The “Old Town” of many European cities is generally the original town site now surrounded by the modern city. Centuries old buildings rich with history and visually appealing often lie within ancient fortified walls. We usually made a point of visiting. We found that “free” historic walking tours were a great value. But we’re done now. We have grown tired of being part of the shoulder to shoulder mass of tourists shuffling along the streets. In many (most?) places, the history is a thin veneer, the beauty only skin deep. Inside those historic buildings one can browse the likes Versace, Prada, Rolex, Gucci, Hermes, etc. Short term rentals dominate the upper floors. We no longer wish to be part of the tourist “problem” plaguing so many areas.
People: Its always about the people! There are many appealing aspects about bike touring. Bikes offer the perfect pace to enjoy natural beauty as well as the towns and village we pass through. We love the physical exertion required, and seeing what our bodies are capable of doing. We love the simplicity of a minimalist lifestyle. But at the end of the day, it is always about the people. From all of our trips, our favorite memories and the stories we tell are about people we’ve met and friends we’ve made.
Now we are back home in Durango, blessed to be surrounded by family, friends and the mountains of Colorado. Thanks for coming along on this journey. Until we hit the road again (teaser: January in Vietnam) get out there and Seize the Carp!
