Europe 2025 – Back Behind Bars #8

On September 27, 2025September 28, 2025 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road2 Comments

Austria, Germany, Austria

Day 42: Sunday (9/22/2025).

I have no proof of this, but last night seemed like locals celebrating Salzburg. Today felt more like the tourist mosh pit found in every historic city in Europe. We’re torn. Just like everyone else, we like to see the sights. We also despise being part of the tourist hordes. It’s a figment of our imagination, but as cyclists, we like to imagine ourselves superior to the common masses roaming the streets. Although, as the saying goes, we’re not stuck in traffic – we are traffic.

We did stumble across a huge October Fest style beer tent. Well, not so much stumble upon as get drawn to it. We heard the music from blocks away. When we entered the tent our sense were assaulted by lively oom-pah music, groups standing on the chairs, steins raised singing drinking songs at the top of their lungs. What a hoot. What else to do but join the festivities. Well, the drinking beer part anyway. We started chatting with the family next to us. Many years ago, Herbert had done the bicycle Race Across America and had ridden through both Flagstaff and Durango. Small world.

Day 43: Monday (9/22/2025). We left Salzburg on a brilliant set of bicycle pathways. It is so nice not having to risk our lives on the “commercial strip” traffic nightmare found in every city in America.

G.L.O.W. Glamorous Ladies of Worldcycling

This morning we were given a slight reprieve from what was meant to be a wet day. We took full advantage. By afternoon, though, warm clothes and rain jackets came out. As temps dropped and the rain continued, a hotel started sounding attractive. What followed was a comedy of errors. Our first try was a self-serve hotel that could not get us a code to get into our room. After 90 frustrating fruitless minutes, we bagged it. Cancel that. Next, Sharon booked an inexpensive hostel in Bergen, three miles down the road. Oops! Turned out it wasn‘t that Bergen, but Bergen, Norway! Well shoot! Cancel that! Then we booked a nearby guest house. Oops. Nearby for a car, maybe. Turned out to be twenty-two miles away. In the rain? Late in the day? That was a nonstarter. Cancel that one! By then we were angry, laughing, frustrated, and slightly hypothermic. Sod it! We rode into town and checked into the first gasthaus we came to. We gagged slightly at the cost, but enjoyed lengthy, very, very expensive showers. Aaaah! The included breakfast the next morning helped as well.

Day 44: Tuesday (9/23/2025). We left Salzburg and connected with a popular cycling route suggested by Craig and Coralee. It was lovely and took us through some beautiful countryside. It also kept us at arm’s length from the mountains. After poring over the maps we decided to turn left and head into the Alps.

We hit our stride, and by 1:00 p.m., already had forty miles behind us. Thirty minutes after arriving in Kufstein, we were on a train heading another fifty miles to Innsbruck. Thankfully, the clouds cleared long enough for us to walk around town and get a glimpse of the peaks towering above Innsbruck.

Day 45: Wednesday (9/24/2025). Rain overnight meant a lazy lie in. During a few hour intermission, Sharon wandered Innsbruck and did some errands. I opted for an “easy” local hike – straight up a mountainside. Makes me wonder what manner of creature lives in these here parts! The views likely would have been amazing had they not been hidden behind a thick blanket of cloud.

Bit of a climb to get to the start of the climb

View across Innsbruck to the Olympic ski jump

The rain’s return gave us all the excuse we needed to laze around the rest of the day.

Day 46: Thursday (9/25/2025). Hard to know what to make of the weather. Based on the forecast, we prepped for rain again today. All day we faced ominous looking skies. We couldn’t help noticing the fresh snow on the peaks above the valley. Temps barely broke fifty. For all that, we had only the briefest of showers in the outskirts of Imst.

Feeling kinda “gangster” for crushing an 18% hill with the “comically” low gear on the new bike.

Forty miles after setting out from Innsbruck we arrived at Imst. We also arrived at the unmistakable conclusion…we chose wisely entering the Alps. Even with the colder temps and steep climbs, we love the mountains!

Day 47: Friday (9/26/2025). Woke up to heavy overcast and forty-three degrees. Come on clouds! We want to see the mountains. Also realized that a screw had worked loose – on my BIKE rack – not ME!

Fortunately I was able to dip into the parts bin. What could have been a royal pain was a minor inconvenience – and a good reminder to check the fittings occasionally.

Today we headed in the direction of Arlberg Pass. Thirty-four miles and four thousand vertical feet above Imst. A bit daunting. Not ones to be easily daunted, we slogged upwards. By mid-afternoon, we’d made it twenty-four miles and almost half the elevation.

My Suunto watch said that during two miles of climbing I’d averaged 2.1 and 2.4 miles per hour! Impressive right? That seems only slightly faster than the slugs we’ve seen crawling along. We did the math and realized we would not arrive at the top of the pass until 5:00pm. A bit late in the day. We had found a place to camp short of the top but weren’t thrilled to see snow in the forecast. Because this is supposed to be fun and we have no one to impress, we are now lounging in a spacious off-season hotel room.

Day 48: Saturday (9/27/2025). Over the last few days we’ve seen the snow line creeping down the mountainsides. Lovely to look at – especially in shorts and a tee inside a toasty room. Sunday looks to be a far superior day to bike over Arlberg, so today we’ve decided to celebrate “Explore Flirsch day.” Since that didn’t take long, we used free bus passes offered by the hotel and went a few miles up the road to Schnann. This entire valley is a hiker’s paradise. One of Schnann’s contributions was the Schnanner Klamm. How could you not want to do a hike with such a fun name?

Interesting “tiered outlet” flood control dam above Schnann

Cycling through the mountains this late in the season brings some added challenges. Yet, we have no regrets. We are in our happy place! Which seems like a wonderful place to bring this week’s adventure to a close. Until next week – STC!

Europe 2025 – Back Behind Bars #7

On September 21, 2025September 21, 2025 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road3 Comments

Austria

Day 35: Sunday (9/14/2025). “Every day is a gift. That’s why it’s called the present.” A cliche, yes, but today was a gift. We expected heavy rain all day, and on cue it started in the wee hours. Faced with the gloomy prospect of a soggy day, we said, “Let’s just have a lie in and spend the day here.” Decision made, we both got back to our books. Thirty minutes later the rain paused, the sky looked hopeful, and suddenly there was no rain in the forecast. Within an hour, we had packed, said farewell to Craig, Coralee, and an Irish lad backpacking barefoot from Istanbul to his home. (Sure, why not?)

Given our expectations for a soggy day, riding along a scenic (rain free) stretch of the Danube was certainly a gift. And when we arrived at a random campground for the evening, we were blown away. Across the river, perched on a hillside above the village of Durnstein, were the ruins of yet another 12th century castle. It’s claim to fame is that King Richard the Lionheart (of Robin Hood fame) was held prisoner there in 1192-1193. He had been captured on his way back from the Third Crusade. What a day!

Day 36: Monday (9/15/2025). Upstream, the hills close in and the Danube carves its way through the Wachau valley. Terraces dating back to medieval times are filled with grape vines. The wine produced here is apparently well known – by those who can afford to buy it. The seventeen mile route to Melk is dotted with castles, abbeys and quaint villages. It is a lovely ride.

Grapevines on medieval terraced hillsides

Since Vienna, we have followed the famous EuroVelo cycle route along the Danube River. What’s not to like about flat riding through mostly scenic countryside? After three days we are not bored exactly. But we have started to weary of the sameness. So, a few miles past Melk, we turned left towards the foothills of the Alps. Good choice. We were treated to quiet country lanes through rolling hills and small towns. Bonus points for being off the bike tourist superhighway that is the Danube cycle path.

Hike a Bike. Definitely not the Danube cycle path

Day 37: Tuesday (9/16/2025). On previous trips, we have averaged 600-700 miles each month. Since leaving Helsinki just over a month ago, we have traveled 1,100 miles. We’re tired. Our bodies are tired. Faced with another rainy day, we decided to hole up in Wieselburg for a day and do nothing touring related. Three loads of laundry in a proper washing machine. Stretch. Read. Write. Do some bike maintenance. But mostly, just rest!

Martin came by to chat while I was working on Sharon’s bike. He rather sheepishly admittted that he was staying at the hostel tonight because “my girlfriend – she does not like me much right now!” Ouch! In the evening, he came by our room and we had a nice chat. Clearly, though, he was a hurting, lost soul. He was desperate for company and even offered to buy us a beer in town. We obliged him for a time but retired much sooner than he would have liked. Later, we overheard his side of a tearful, impassioned phone call. We assume it was with his significant other. Hard to say whether or not he is back in her good graces.

Day 38: Wednesday (9/17/2025). Today was dubbed the “EKG ride.” A profile of our route looked like an EKG heart scan. Up a hill. Down a hill. Up another hill. Down another hill. Add to that a healthy headwind and you have all the ingredients for an extra special workout. This came as no surprise. The wind was forecast, and we are skirting the northern edge of the alps. Hills are sort of to be expected. But the narrow winding country lanes were blissfully free of traffic. The picturesque villages and countryside more than compensated for the hard work. This evening, we make our home on the outskirts of Steyr.

Riding the *“Most rad route”* dude! That’s how we roll.

Day 39: Thursday (9/18/225). “This looks vaguely familiar…” We had a deja vu moment as we rolled into Steyr. Then it clicked. We’d been here three years ago on a previous bike trip. We didn’t remember the name, but we could hardly forget the city. It is still just as lovely. We revisited a few sites. We poked into some previously unseen corners. We enjoyed our second breakfast from a local bakery then headed out of town. Yesterday had been a butt kicker, so we dialed back our ambitions and set modest mileage goals today. The hills and headwinds still gave our backsides another boot. And yet, it was a glorious day.

We rolled into Adlwang expecting a short snack break. Instead, Gerhard and Ava wandered over and struck up a conversation. They were curious about our trip. They graciously then took the time to give a brief history and tour of the village. Apparently, the 1300’s era church here is a popular pilgrimage site. In a few weeks, people from the surrounding towns will make the journey to Adlwang. They also led us to a small chapel with a small spring. Splashing the water on your eyes is meant to offer good vision and a good life. Ava’s mother spoke of coming to this same chapel when she was a small child. Lot’s of history here. Had Ava and Gerhard not stopped, we would have missed so much.

Gerhard belongs to a photography club and writes for the local newspaper. He asked if he could write our story. Of course! I guess we may become minor celebrities! (I’ll attached the link at the end). What a wonderful surprise. As always, people are the highlight of our day. Shortly after our tour guides left, we stopped by the local grocery. We ended up chatting with the grocer for another fifteen minutes. Such pleasant people.

Buoyed by those experiences, the final miles to our campground…still crawled by. One last hill brought us to a site looking out over the nearby town of Sautern. To the south and west, the expanse of Austrian alps. A bit intimidating knowing our route heads in that direction. We spent an amiable evening talking to a few of our campground neighbors. A cyclist riding from Salzburg to his home in Vienna. A retired couple from Denmark wandering Europe in their caravan. These are the days we will remember.

Day 40: Friday (9/19/2025).

It is a cruel irony that the mountainous landscape we love is also the most difficult to travel on bikes. Even the lumpy foothills are a challenge. Fortunately the headwinds relented today. And as we turned south towards and along the Attersee, we had tailwinds and some flat ground. Yay.

The Attersee is stunning. Crystal clear water. Surrounded by mountains and rolling hills. On this day, hundreds of sailboats were enjoying the fresh breeze. The 43K road around the lake is a favorite for cyclists. We saw hundreds in our few miles along the lake to our campground. Tomorrow the “King of the Lake” bike race will unleash many hundreds of cyclists all seeking glory and personal best times.

Dilemma…should we stick we around for the beer pong tournament???

Day 41: Saturday (9/20/2025). Our ride today was divided into three distinct stages. A cool, morning around the south side of Attersee and Mondsee. This came with a generous side of jagged peaks and fellow cyclists. Phase two was a very hot low gear grind through farm fields to a high point on our way to Salzburg. And finally, miles and miles of glorious downhill coasting to the outskirts of town. As Sharon noted, probably the easiest thirty miles of hard biking we’ve done.

Our visit to Salzburg coincides with the annual St Rupert festival. At this point, I know nothing about it. Apparently it involves large numbers of people dressed in traditional Austrian garb drinking lots of beer and eating what looks like amazing food. We gathered this from a bus ride and brief walk around downtown after dark. Tomorrow when we have more time, we intend to fully embrace the festive atmosphere.

Until next week – STC!

Here is the link to Gerhard’s article

https://www.meinbezirk.at/steyr-steyr-land/c-regionauten-community/mit-den-fahrraedern-von-helsinki-nach-zuerich_a7628035

Europe 2025 – Back Behind Bars #6

On September 14, 2025September 14, 2025 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road1 Comment

Slovakia, Austria

Day 28: Sunday (9/7/2025). Several years ago, we hosted a Swiss couple in Flagstaff. They were in the midst of a multi-year world trip in a customized Land Cruiser. We found it amusing that they wanted a “vacation” from the vacation that was basically their life. Now that we’ve been traveling for a few years – we get it!

After a week of challenging riding in the mountains, we were ready for a day of “vacation” if you will. We slept in (sort of). We had a decadant breakfast, lounged, loafed, surfed, read, wrote, did chores, but mostly accomplished quite a lot of nothing. We fully embraced the “off” of “day off”. We expended some energy strolling around historic Zilnia. A local Indian restaurant helped us avoid a caloric deficit. Our reaction to the flavors bordered on the restaurant scene from “When Harry Met Sally.” People wanted what we were having!

Day 29: Monday (9/8/2025). Two things generally guide our daily agenda. Are there sites of interest ahead? Is there camping to be had within a reasonable distance in the direction we are traveling? The town of Trencin ticked both boxes.

As expected (and hoped for) riding felt good after a day off. Slovakia kindly provided silky smooth bike paths along the Vah River for a much of our route.

What civilized people…sustenance available right on the bike path.

Nothing dramatic today, just pleasant riding with interesting sights. We had an unexpected surprise as we entered the outskirts of Trencin.

After we met in Poland, Victor and Valentine took a different route through the Carpathian mountains. As we entered Trencin we were surprised and delighted to be hailed by our French friends. The previous night they had stayed nearby with a Warmshower host family. When we met them, they were suffering from an excess of hospitality the night before. They had hoped to travel farther, but opted instead to call it a day and camp with us in Trencin. We were happy for it. We camped along the Vah River, in the shadow of Trencin castle. An inscription on the rock below the castle has been dated to a Roman battle against Germanic tribes in 179 AD. My brain melted picturing Roman legions camped in this same area.

Late afternoon we’d washed away the sweat and grime from a long day in the saddle. Dinner was done. All that was left was several hours of pivo and pleasant conversation with Valentine and Victor.

Day 30: Tuesday (9/9/2025). “Age and treachery will overcome youth and skill. This quote is often attributed to Italian cyclist Fausto Coppi. Our new friends are less than half our age. Together, we had agreed on a destination almost sixty hilly miles closer to Bratislava. As Valentine woke up and looked through her tent door, the first thing she saw was Sharon and Dave riding away on the opposite bank of the Vah River. Given their youth, we decided we needed a head start!

The ride was not unpleasant but was also unremarkable. We have no pictures from the day, which probably says all you need to know about this part of Slovakia. Showing the wisdom of age, we also chose a different route from the youngsters, thus avoiding a plethora of hills. We were showered, fed, and rested by the time Valentine and Victor arrived. Since we appear to be in Slovakian wine country, a local red wine fueled the evening repartee. (Very passable, I say, very passable).

Day 31: Wednesday (9/10/2025). We’ve learned often that making plans based on a weather forecast is a fool’s errand. The forecast today, though, was hard to ignore. Severe flood warnings in the Bratislava area suggested we prepare for rain. We left early together and made a dash towards Bratislava to hopefully avoid the worst. We arrived only slightly dampened.

By the time the heavy rains did arrive, we cared little. By then, we had parked ourselves in the corner of a friendly pizza place. The storm raged outside, but we barely noticed as we lounged over dinner. In Europe, a meal is not to be rushed but savored. It is an opportunity to while away the hours in the company of friends. And so it was.

We learned from Victor, that someone in his family traced their ancesty back to the 1500’s. In all that time, it seems few in his family had strayed more than a few kilometers from their hometown! Remarkable! Valentine’s grandmother remembers hearing gunfire from the D-Day landings. Valentine grew up idolizing an Aunt’s godmother who fought in the French resistance. Only when the staff began to close for the evening did we think to brave the rain back to our respective homes.

Day 32: Thursday (9/11/2025). We started the day with a walking tour of Bratislava. Like so many small countries in this part of the world, for much of their history, Slovakia found itself at the mercy of the big players on the world stage. That seldom worked to their favor.

Agatha, a natural healer burned as a witch outside the city gates in 1603

After the tour, we strolled the city before meeting with Victor and Valentine for another night on the town. It was a day well spent pursuing knowledge, and enjoying food and friendship. La vie est belle!

Day 33: Friday (9/12/2025). Forty miles separate Bratislava and Vienna. A route of mostly dedicated bike paths brought the four of us to the outskirts of Vienna.

Although we played tag with rainstorms from time to time, it wasn’t a grueling day. Still, by the time we arrived at our campground, none of us felt motivated to do much more than clean up, eat and retire for the evening. Due to traffic, train, and related urban noise, the campground lacked charm – and it was expensive. But it’s location was convenient, as evidenced by the dozen or so other cyclists camped in the tent area.

Day 34: Saturday (9/13/2025). It was a sad morning. Valentin had washed all their clothes and hung them to dry. Heavy rain overnight made a mess of that. Then we said good-bye to our traveling companions. We’ve grown comfortable very quickly and will miss their company.

For years, we’ve heard Vienna spoken of in hushed, reverantial tones. We were looking forward to seeing the sights. After an hour of being jostled about in historic downtown, we said auf wiedersehen to Vienna. It was nice enough. It just did nothing for us.

We actually enjoyed the street art on the way out town more than we enjoyed the city.

A few hours along the Danube brought us to Tulln for the evening. I was prepping our bedroom, and it looked to be an early evening. Then Craig and Coralee rolled in next door. They hailed from the Lake District in the UK and were biking toward Budapest. When we met later to chat we learned about bike trips and a six week canoe trip down the Loire River in France. It quickly became apparent that we are kindred spirits. We shared stories and beer until well after our bedtime. What a happy end to another week behind (handle) bars. Until next week – STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #20

On July 17, 2022November 23, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road5 Comments

Slovenia – Austria (Day 118 – 124)

Sunday (7/10). If an early rainstorm hadn’t rolled through I would have been itching for an earlier start. If it had been just a bit warmer, we wouldn’t have stopped to put on an extra layer. If a market had been open in the first town we passed, we would have stopped for breakfast. If we hadn’t stopped briefly at a crossroad to check directions, Elodie’s brother in the car wouldn’t have said to Elodie in jest, “Look, there are some of your cycling friends!” If we had done any of a hundred things differently this morning, we would not have been at that precise spot at that precise moment, and Elodie would not have shouted, “Those ARE my friends! Stop!”

We met Elodie, Julia and Lucia three weeks ago on the island of Mljet, and then chatted during a ferry ride. We parted ways,, but kept in touch. Elodie is taking a short break from cycling with her friends to road trip with her family…which led to our paths crossing in Mojstrana. What a wonderful way to start our day! What a small world – at times.

And that is pretty much how the rest of the day went. Thanks to some leftover altitude from yesterday’s climb, our first thirteen miles were mostly downhill. Then we found a bakery serving up some amazing meat and cheese bureks and fruit pastries. Next up on the Slovenian parade of wonders, the world famous Bled. That called for a “chairs out” stop.

We roamed the countryside picking roads at random…and they were all good. By late afternoon we arrived in Radovljica and found accomodation in a five hundred year old guest house. When it was renovated (200 years ago) a restaurant was added on the first floor. They have been serving up food in that location ever since.

Monday (7/11). Since our room came with a tasty full breakfast, there was no early start. And there didn’t need to be. We had no destination in mind and all day to get there. For the most part we let Komoot lead us generally east. There were quite a few noteworthy moments. Riding past an idyllic village just as the church bells erupted. An unbelievably ornate church open to the public in another small town. Goats chillin’. A cycle touring family with a three and five year old on the road for three weeks. We call that redefining fun. One lane roads winding across the valley floor and through countless small villages. Even with a ten mile climb at the end of the day, we made our miles, and late in the day found a good campsite. Another memorable day in Slovenia. As a side note, on a day like today we stopped at two grocery stores and spent about $15 on food. Nothing for camping, so as of late, this was definitely on the cheap end of the spectrum.

Tuesday (7/12). We started the day with a long descent into the famous Savinja Valley. Famous because hops have reigned supreme here for over 150 years. Two thirds of all Slovenian hops are grown in this valley. Easy to believe as we rolled past mile after mile of hops fields. Of course, a steady supply of world class hops leads to a steady supply of world class craft beer. Several are quite visibly on display at the Zalec Fontana Piv (beer fountain). Not quite what you think, but still very cool.

Properly hydrated, we headed north. It was payback time for our morning descent. Eighteen miles of climbing in heavy traffic against the wind on a narrow, winding road. If I’m being honest – it sucked! Slovenia stepped up though. Eventually we were able to get off the main road onto a paved “rails to trail” path. I immediately went from tense and unhappy to relaxed and enjoying the scenery. We took our supper from a market and few miles later found a quiet spot to spend the night.

Wednesday (7/13). Our rails to trail carried us into Slovenj Gradec and our usual breakfast of yogurt and fruit. That tided us over until an amazing (and cheap) doner wrap in Dravograd. We fell in love with this tasty meal in Turkey and hadn’t had a proper doner in some time. What a treat!

Lesson for the day: The word “grad” in Slovene means “castle”. Add “Dravo” to the front, and the name of the town Dravograd means “the castle on the Drava River.” This town has been around at least since the time it was mentioned in written description of the area – in 1135ad.

500 and 750 year old churches in Slovenj Gradec

Well planned bike routes and dedicated bike paths brought us to Radlje ob Dravi. Even with help from locals I simply could not get my tongue to perform the gymnastics necessary to pronounce the first part of this city name. That didn’t keep us from enjoying the city, the people, the hostel, or the fine microbrew. One of our servers, Zhan, is planning his first bike tour to Prague in two months. It was fun to share info and see his enthusiasm. His co-workers were very nice, but didn’t seem quite as excited about the time he was spending with his new American friends.

Thursday (7/14). We arrived in Radlje with the idea of continuing east to Maribor, then curving north into Austria along the eastern end of the Alps. The thought was to attempt to avoid some big climbs. On second thought, why not just plunge straight into (and over) the belly of the beast? Four miles straight north (and up) and we entered country #11. As expected, Austria gave us a hearty (and steep) Wilkommen!

Friday (7/15). Decisions! Decisions! We both spent time exploring possible through and around the mountains here. So naturlich, we chose a route that would equal our biggest climb of the trip last week. It was as expected. There was walking. There were amazing views of the peaks surrounding us and the valleys far, far below. We passed through eerily quiet villages. And then – we were at the top, almost five thousand vertical feet higher from where we started. Unfortunately that also put us in the clouds, which chose that moment to release all the water they’d been carrying. It was a very long, very soggy descent. We both felt a bit cheated at not being able to enjoy it more. Still, we both felt tremendous satisfaction at having knocked off another big climb – and feeling good while doing it. We took the path of least resistance all the way into Wolfsberg and shelter from the rain.

Saturday (7/16). Those with good memories might find something familiar about today’s date. Meine Frau celebrated a Geburtstag! A key feature of the celebration was staying in one place for two nights – which meant no biking on the birth day! That was combined with good food, ice cream and just a touch of laziness for a spectacular day. It may not have been the most exciting day, but it was definitely appreciated.

First Efes since we left Turkey. Pretty exciting!

So here we are in Austria (country #11). We like what we’re seeing. People are nice. We once find ourselves surrounded by mountains, valleys and handsome towns. I can spreche just enough Deutsch to fill the gap if someone doesn’t spreche English. In the “negative” column, we are experiencing sticker shock after Turkey and the Balkan countries. Wild camping is strictly verboten! Campgrounds are expensive and so far virtually non-existent. Guest house and hotel prices cause actual physical pain when we swipe our credit card. So we have some mixed feelings! But as a friend used to say, it is still “More good than bad!” Which seems like a good place to end the week. Hope it is more good than bad wherever you are. Until next week – STC!

Seizing the Carp!

Tag: Austria

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