O.T.R.A. – Across the Pond #9

Turkey 🇹🇷 (Days 41-47)

Sunday/Monday (4/24 – 4/25). Antalya. We decided to spend a few days in Antalya. Given it’s size and status as major tourist center, we thought we’d be able to take care of some chores. I was hoping to send away some items deemed unnecessary. However, the DHL quote of 120 euros for a small package meant a hard pass! Next chore – cleaning and adjusting our bikes. Done! We struck out on replacing some broken bits of camping gear. Patricia and Chris arrived on Saturday, so we were able to spend time with them searching out good eats, and enjoying some adult beverages. It is always a treat being stationary for a few days.

Tuesday (4/26). The carefully crafted, finely honed plan was to cycle through Antalya and down the coast some 50-60 miles. Since we would be saying farewell to the sea, bonus points if we could find a place to camp on the beach. Right! The cycling part went mostly to plan. However, by afternoon we entered a region of ultra posh hotels. We cycled by, filled with self-righteous scorn at such decadence. As a joke we pulled up to the opulent entry of one such and Sharon inquired about a room. Unbelievably, this “all inclusive, all meals, all alcohol, three pools, waterslide resort” cost … wait for it…$70 per night. Scorn, derision, and the moral high ground are all rapidly jettisoned!! Sign us up! “Another mojito? Please and thank you!” We spent the next 24 hours being pampered, filling our faces, basking in the lap of luxury. It was disgusting. It was marvelous.

Wednesday (4/27). The accommodating staff allowed us to hang around the grounds after our noon checkout. Thus we enjoyed more food, more mojitos, beer and wine all while lounging by the pool(s). Finally by 3pm! we had worn out our welcome. Very reluctantly (Sharon! Patricia!) we continued our journey. Our very nice campsite seemed a bit…common… after our brush with the 1% lifestyle.

Thursday (4/28). Several days exploring Antalya. Flat cycling along the coast. Living an episode of “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous!”. We knew it couldn’t continue. It didn’t!  Today was hot, sweaty climbing – as only Turkey can offer –  all day long!  “That’s all I got to say about that!”

It was just this kind of day!

Friday (4/29). Again, this is why we don’t plan. End of day yesterday I thought I pinched a stone and sent it into a guardrail. It was, in fact, a spoke breaking on my rear wheel. A fact that became obvious first thing this morning. That’s annoying, but no big deal since I had spare spokes from the bike shop where I’d replaced my rear wheel. Oh, except he gave me the wrong spokes. Ok, that is a problem.. Then I noticed my chain acting up. Turns out the spoke broke with such force, it also broke my chain, and chipped my disk brake. All of that meant instead of a few days of riding, we flagged down a bus. Forty dollars lighter and several hours later, we were deposited in Konya near a bike shop. As expected, no spokes available in the Konya shops. Plus the Eid al-Fitr holiday means all shops will be closed until Thursday. We opted for a monkey wrench fix and irrational optimism that the wheel will endure. So with the bike as fixed as it was going to be, we retreated to our hotel with plans to errand and explore  tomorrow.

Saturday (4/30). Side note: It is always important to remember that when we travel to a ‘foreign’ country – we are the foreigners. Nowhere has that felt more obvious than in Konya. We had wanted to get away from the touristy  coastal areas. Konya definitely met that requirement. It is a bustling, dense, massive city. City streets were clogged with cars, public transport, scooters, people. A moving sea of humanity filled sidewalks and market areas. These were locals just getting on with their lives, not gawking tourists. It was a bit overwhelming at first, then exhilarating. That’s why we travel!

Saturday morning on the streets of Konya

The day started early with a timid knock at the door. We had been told “no problem!” Our bikes would be safe locked behind the hotel. It might have been “no problem!” but we wanted to make sure. Before bed we brought them to our room. This morning, the very kind man from the hotel saw that our bikes were not behind the hotel where they had been last evening. He came to our room at 6am, a bit frantic assuming our bikes had been stolen. We felt terrible and apologized for worrying him so.

We spent the rest of the day running errands and just wandering the city, trying to absorb it all. Patricia and Chris made an epic ride and arrived mid-afternoon. That was cause enough for celebratory Efes (beer) and dinner.

Tomorrow we say farewell to Konya and (temporarily) the kids. If the weather stays fair and the dodgy bike repairs hold, we should arrive in Cappadocia in three -ish days. But then, anything can happen, right?  So until next week – STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #8

Sunday (4/17). Today’s forecast called for gale force winds and rain. In other words – perfect biking weather, not! We opted for a “rest” day exploring the ancient city of Patara…as well as just resting. In spite of only using human power to travel and being outside all the time, we have a hard time allowing ourselves permission to not fill every day with activity. “We should explore this town. We should visit that ruin. Etc.” After getting blown around most of the day, we finally relented and hunkered down in the hotel room with some good books. Ah,  luxury!

Monday (4/18). Patera to Kas. In addition to all the ancient cities and ruins, this stretch of rugged coast was at one time home to a large and active pirate fleet. It was such a problem that the Roman general Pompey was given unlimited resources to finally deal with the issue. Which, by the way, he did by resetting many pirates as farmers. The rest? Well, you can guess… Cycling along the coast, in and out of the countless bays and coves, it is easy to imagine pirates laying in wait for juicy merchant vessels to lumber by.

On the road to Kas.

It is also easy to see why Kas, along with so many other cities along the coast, have become tourist magnets. Kas is fronted by more of the unreal Mediterranean blue, and backed by a mountain ridge named Sleeping Giant. The town itself is charming in spite of being given over entirely to charming the cash out of throngs of tourists.

At dinner we started chatting with the couple at the next table. They were both taking full advantage of working remotely by traveling extensively. Tomorrow they leave for Iraq…next month Iran. Having backpacked in Asia previously, she argued strongly that Indonesia should be our next destination. Maybe! Super nice folks. By evening’s end, they’d offered us their flat in London if we should make it that far. That may seem hard to believe, but is just another example of the kindness and generosity we’ve experienced in our travels. It is also why we open our home from time to time wandering souls. What goes around comes around.

New friends…world traveling digital nomads

Tuesday (4/19). It’s hard to make progress when every place we visit begs to be explored. Kas was such a place, and explore we did. I hiked up Sleeping Giant while Sharon wandered around town. We spent the evening with Chris and Patricia and somehow managed to find both a disappointing pub and restaurant.

Wednesday (4/20). Kas was hard to leave! Literally! It was hard to leave.

The huge day of climbing was worth it as we coasted 13.8km downhill into Demre and a choice camping spot.

Thursday (4/21). In our time here we’ve grown accustomed to endless steep climbs. It was an unbelievably pleasant change to have relatively flat cycling most of the day. Per usual, the scenery ranged from pleasant to breath taking. A major uphill late in the day led us to call it quits at a funky beach town of Andrasan.

Friday (4/22). Long day yesterday, so we set our sights a bit shorter today on a (supposedly) quiet cove south of Kemer. The ride was great. The cove was pretty. We met Atilla and Zelda when they invited us for evening chai (tea) and snacks. In spite of the language barrier we had a great time pantomiming stories and laughing at our efforts to communicate. Unfortunately, half the population of Antalya had also discovered this quiet cove. For this crowd “camping” and “sleeping” did not necessarily go together. Our night on the beach felt like camping on a carnival midway on the infield of a Nascar race. The icing on the cake was that during the rare quiet moments I got to enjoy Sharon’s spot on imitation of the classic Husqvarna chainsaw sound. (To be fair, Sharon’s often been on the receiving end as well). On balance, we may have chosen poorly.

Saturday (4/23). Thanks to all our ‘considerate’ neighbors, getting up early was no problem. As soon as the sun cleared the horizon, we said gule gule (good-bye) to Zelda and Atilla and headed off.

A few weeks ago,  Antalya seemed like a distant dream. There was so much to see and the terrain was so challenging, it seemed we’d never arrive. Yet with our early start we’d covered the 30 miles of coastline before noon and entered the outskirts of Antalya. We have no special fondness for any city of 1.2 million people. But for us it marks an important milestone.  After a few days to rest and regroup, we are heading away from the popular tourist areas to head inland. This likely will be an entirely different Turkey. 

Back to the main road

This seems like a good place to end for the week. Just shy of six weeks on the road, we’ve covered almost 800 miles. The very difficult terrain has been more than offset by the 25 hotel nights vs 15 camping nights,  the amazing/affordable food, and as always, the interesting folks along the way. Until next time, do as Sharon says, “be reckless and take chances!” STC!

O.T.R.A. – Across the Pond #7

Turkey (Days 28 – 34)

From the comfort of home, five months on the road seems a long time to be away. Now with five weeks already gone it seems Pink Floyd got it right. “You run, and you run to catch up with the sun but it’s sinking, racing around to come up behind you again.” Five months is nowhere near enough time to see the wonders of Turkey and all the other places we hoped to see. We’re already beginning to hear the clock ticking. Small wonder most cyclists we’ve met have been out much longer…and have no end in sight! Not complaining – just commenting.

Monday (4/11). Dalyan didn’t impress at first glance, but it does have a certain charm. The river walk was pleasant. We were especially  impressed by the 4th century BCE burial tombs visible on the opposite bank.

A few hours later we were on Iztuzu Plaji. Once a popular place for humans to nest, now a protected sea turtle nesting area. We were able to meet some of the locals rehabbing after being injured in the wild.

Endangered Green sea turtle recovering from a propeller strike.

Camping was strictly forbidden anywhere near the beach – and rightly so. Plan B landed us in Dalaman, a bit closer to our goal of Fethiye.

Tuesday (4/12). What a glorious day! Even the Buzz Lightyear hill (to infinity and beyond) didn’t matter. Snow capped peaks over here. Blue-green Mediterranean over there. A bit later $2 drafts on the shore. We keep pinching ourselves. When is the dream going to end?

Wednesday (4/13) Rest day…sort of. Our happy foursome explored local ruins and took steps to assure proper hydration. We all very much enjoyed Fethiye, especially the amazing waterfront park. Between running, hiking and cycling around town, we’d covered twenty miles on our “off” day.

Thursday (4/14). The short ride to Oludeniz – far and away everyone’s least favorite road. Insanely steep. Dusty. Hot. Loads of traffic. The payoff, however, was immense. By mid-day we were sitting on another lovely beach watching scores of paragliders land. Hanging with Chris and Patricia. Camping on the beach and listening to the waves roll in. Life is good.

Friday (4/15). We were all reluctant to leave the beauty of Oludeniz. In part because we were all mesmerized by the contrast of snow capped peaks looming over too blue to be real sea. Finally at noon we faced reality and started the long, veeeery slow slog south and up! Lots of hike-a-bike. Isn’t this supposed to be a “bike” ride? By the time we arrived at the tiny mountain village of Karaagac, we were all sporting stylish salt stained shirts. We’d also had more than our fill of defying gravity for one day. Pause for some fresh squeezed juice. Watch a virtuoso gozleme making performance at a road side stand. Then out of town a short distance to camp. Oh what a day! Glorious!

Saturday (4/16). Tempus Fugit. Time flies. Close to five weeks on the road. Ten days spent with Chris and Patricia. That last stat was about to change. They wanted to see some sites farther east. We wanted to continue down the coast. So with that plan in mind, we strapped on our hike a bike shoes, topped out just under 4000′ above the Mediterranean and we parted ways. We are all hoping it is auf wiedersehen rather than good-bye. Puppy Dog and Princess Knallhart are enchanting traveling companions. Hopefully our paths will cross once again.

Solo once again we enjoyed the fruits of two days of climbing. We coasted most of the way through stunning landscape, more friendly people, and rustic towns all the way to Patara. For a tourist town near a famous beach and ancient city, Patara seemed a bit…grim. The plaji (beach) was closed to camping so we found a very nice, very empty hotel. And that, dear readers, is where we will leave you. Tomorrow we will celebrate Easter. And depending on the rain…either relax in our hotel or visit the ancient city. Until next week – Happy Easter and STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #6

Turkey (days 21 – 27)

Monday (4/3). Easiest day of biking so far. Of course “easy” is a relative term. Only one “two and a half” hill. That’s the name we’re giving to hills so steep that either walking or riding we can only manage 2.5 mph. After the first nasty, it was a rare wind free day with normal hills into Bodrum.

Our plan is to catch a ferry from here to Datca tomorrow, so we embraced our time in town with eating and sightseeing. We were in for the night when Sharon connected with someone from her women’s Facebook page who happened to be…in Bodrum! Seemed like we were meant to meet. Absolute highlight of the day! Lindsay took a massive leap to leave behind work and home to explore the world for a year! I know what you’re thinking. How is it that we keep meeting all these cool people? I know, right? If you’re interested you can learn more about her at @ipulledthepin on Instagram and youtube.

Tuesday (4/5). This is why we don’t plan. “Let’s take the Tuesday ferry to Datca” we said. Great plan! Except the ferry was canceled today because of high winds. OK. Well, we could take a different ferry to Kos and Rhodes and then into Marmaris. Great plan! Except those ferries don’t run until May. Guess we’ll relax in Bodrum for a few days. Great plan!

Wednesday (4/6). Schedule for today: Sit by the sea shore. Relax. People watch. Relax. Check out the international sailing competition. Listen to a book on tape. Did I mention relax? Sounds like a full schedule, but we managed to fit it all in.

Thursday (4/7). We’d chatted briefly with Chris and Patricia at the harbor. From Switzerland, they’ve been touring for quite while and had just arrived in Bodrum. We ended up at the same hotel, and then on the ferry. By the time we arrived at Datca, we all decided it would be fun to tour together for a time. Interesting how often that happens. Just a few miles up the road we crossed paths with another group of cyclists…a young German couple and a couple with a young daughter.  The two couples had met on a ferry some three weeks prior and had been cycling together since. They were all on the road indefinitely and had some amazing adventures.

Friday (4/8). The Datca peninsula on the way to Marmaris is lovely. Mountainous of course, we were treated to amazing views from on high and rides along the sea shore.  We are getting into a comfortable groove with Chris and Patricia. It is always such fun spending time with and getting to know new friends. Everyone has a unique story to tell, and Chris and Patricia are no exception.

Marmaris is a fairly posh, ultra touristy resort town catering mostly to Brits on holiday. Didn’t care much for the town. Got some filling if not especially tasty lunch. Enjoyed a beer on the stunning harbor. Then saddled up for the slog to our home for the evening.

Riding through Marmaris

Saturday (4/9). Backroads ruled today.  Several times we left the main highway and traveled on secondary roads. Often slower, they offer a much more appealing view of Turkey. By days end we’d covered 35 miles and arrived at beautiful Koycegiz Lake. Given the sticky, smelly condition of all travelers, we’d hoped to swim, but couldn’t access the shoreline. Oh well, we all stink equally so no problem. Chris and Patricia are lovely traveling companions. They are funny, laid back, and generous. It is very enjoyable riding with experienced cyclists. Even prior to their current bike tour, they both have traveled extensively and have interesting experiences to share.

Sunday (4/10). Breakfast today was a communal affair. Chris played chef and we all provided ingredients. The end result was fit for royalty…both the queen and princess were satisfied. A brief ride then brought us to the famous Sultaniye mud bath/spa. Seventy-five cents each allowed us to enjoy the miraculous healing power of the mud baths. This was followed by several hours of lounging in different hot pools. A grueling adventure this bike touring!

A few miles down the road we arrived at Dalyan. Clearly another town popular with Brits on holiday. It is not a particularly interesting town. Still, we managed to find very nice (inexpensive) accomodations for the evening. Now that we’re here – decision time again. What sites to see. What direction to travel the next few days. What to eat. All daily decisions we’ve grown accustomed to making after a month on the road. Where will be be next week? We have no idea! But given the country and the company, I have no doubt it will be an interesting ride. Until then – STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #5

Turkey (day 17 – 20)

I can’t think of anything that excites a greater sense of childlike wonder than to be in a country where you are ignorant of almost everything. Suddenly you are five years old again. You can’t read anything, you have only the most rudimentary sense of how things work, you can’t even reliably cross a street without endangering your life. Your whole existence becomes a series of interesting guesses.”

Bill Bryson

Thursday (3/31). Thank you Bill for perfectly describing life outside one’s “comfort zone.” We were, however, very much in our comfort zone on our perfect hillside perch. Out across the Aegean Sea, the Greek island of Samos was visible. Most times the only sound came from waves on the rocky shore far below. It offered the best night of sleep since leaving the U.S. After the dog pound the night before, we needed it.

By noon we arrived at the site of ancient Ephesus. Stunning! Walking along the ancient main street you can easily picture life in Ephesus 2,000 years ago. I can’t think of any modern city that could hope to match the beauty and “wow” factor of ancient Ephesus. And then to think we walked the same streets and strolled around the same Agora as the Apostle Paul and possibly other famous historic figures…powerful stuff.

The word ‘awesome’ has almost lost all meaning through over use. Ephesus inspires awe…it truly is awesome. Once again we are very happy to be here before tourist season.

By the 7th century, Ephesus had been sacked, hit by earthquakes, and fallen prey to a silted up harbor. Despite its previous glory, Ephesus pretty much ceased to exist. Most people had moved to the nearby town of Selcuk, which is where we enjoyed more local cuisine and hot showers.

Friday (4/1). I have been bicycle touring since high school. I’ve never been manhandled by the wind like today. Several times a headwind brought us to a complete stop! Other times the sidewind was a giant hand sweeping us completely off the road. As an added bonus, this particular wind coated us with a fine layer of sand being carried all the way from Africa. We we’re inching dangerously close to “not fun” territory. Still, we managed to claw our way forward for twenty-five miles before calling it quits. There was no way our tent would survive this wind, so we took shelter in a pension room for the night.

Saturday (4/2). Biking south from Guzelcamli and Soke, Gursoy parked along the road and motioned for us to stop. He and his mother had just arrived for a stay at their summer home near Akbek. He invited us for dinner and to spend the night. It was farther than we wanted to travel, and not in the direction we had planned, so of course we said “YES!” Best.decision.ever! By evening’s end we had enjoyed a lovely meal. We met family friends and neighbors. We learned so much about life in Turkey, and had so many of our questions answered. Thank your Gursoy, Mother, Turhan, Elwun and Fertik for a most wonderful evening.

Sunday (4/3). We enjoyed another meal as guests of Gursoy and mom before heading out. What a great experience. And based on the collective wisdom of last night’s gathering, we chose a backroad over the mountains and through the woods towards Bodrum. Beautiful, interesting…with lots of 2.4 mph uphills! We were thinking our new ‘friends’ were playing a cruel joke on the gullible foreigners.

Tonight we’ll attempt to avoid sheep and an angry shepherdess and get some sleep. Tomorrow we head toward Bodrum to start checking off the “must see” list given to us. It has been an awesome first week in Turkey!

OTRA – Across the Pond #4

Welcome to Turkey

Sunday (3/27). The morning started as the night had passed…calm with the gentle sound of waves lapping the beach. We are so far ahead of the tourist, the beach villages are deserted.

Hills steep enough to require walking lay between us, Chios, and our ferry to Turkey. We gave ourselves plenty of time to enjoy the ride back to town, and one last tasty gyro for the road.

For newbies like us, there is always some uncertainty surrounding border crossings. Are we in the right place? Where are we supposed to go? Do we have the right paperwork? Etc. Fortunately we met a couple from Istanbul who gave us a crash course on everything Turkish, and even followed us through the Greek exit and Turkish entrance, just to make sure we had no problems. Tesekkur (thank you) Zeynep and Bob (originally from Philly).

Zeynep and Bob our guardian angels

On our way from the port, a young man looked at us, stopped his scooter and said, “Welcome to my country! Enjoy! Another young man opened his cell phone store and spent an hour getting us hooked up with new sim cards. The owner of a hotel/apartment insisted we take a much larger room for the same $24, “so we would be more comfortable!” Enough food from a market to provide a filling dinner set us back $3. So far, we’re liking Turkey!

Monday (3/28). Today is a day to explore Cesme, get our bearings and plan our next few days. Not even 24 hours in the country and a shop owner brought us cups of tea while we enjoyed her (amazing) baklava.

Tuesday (3/29). Today we begin our Turkey tour properly. It was not the day we planned. The riding was  unremarkable as we made our way east off the Cesme peninsula. Just before lunch I picked up a large screw in my rear wheel! Whilst changing said flat, I noticed that my rim was cracked in several places. Only a matter of time before the rim completely fails. Didn’t plan for that! With global bicycle supply chain issues – and in a foreign country – what are the chances of finding anything compatible??? Zero to none, right? But hope springs eternal so instead of turning south down the coast, we headed east to the awesome Bisiklet Izmir shop. Ibrahim and crew searched their inventory, and after some trial and error, found and installed a replacement rear wheel. Can’t say enough good things about everyone in the shop. Enjoyed chatting with Ibrahim “Tuna” while work progressed. He and Guiseppe gave us a list of “must see” places along our route.

It was getting late by the time we got back on the road. No problem. We’ll bike a few miles down the road and find some place to camp. We’d seen plenty of likely places all day. Miles later we still hadn’t found a good candidate. Eventually we rolled into the tiny village of Bademler  and a small park of sorts. “Why not?” we thought. We asked a shop owner across the street (with Google translate) did he think there would be a problem? No, but we needed to talk to the muchtar (village headman) for permission – and wait – here’s his brother right here! He’ll call. “No problem!” We were told – but we have to notify the gendarmerie. Mr. Oz (the shopkeeper) happened to know the sister of the police chief. After an animated phone call, all appropriate permissions were received, all appropriate parties were notified, so we rolled into the park. Mr. Oz accompanied us, and with more help from Google translate, made sure we were properly settled. By the time we had our tent up, a very sharply attired business man drove up and introduced himself as the village muchtar (thanks again Google translate). He checked our passports, made sure we had everything we needed, and said good night. The perfect end to a perfectly unplanned day.

Wednesday (3/30). The park would have been lovely – had it not been for the pack of wild dogs who barked and fought outside our tent much of the night. Oh…and except for the birds with intestinal distress who crowded onto the one branch overhanging the tent.

After a rough night in Bademler we enjoyed a relaxing day wandering along the coast. Made even more relaxed by the Turkish army. They were conducting live fire exercises that closed the only road south for two hours. Fine…we’ll sit on the beach and relax for two hours! Many hours and many, many hills later, we ended the day perched on a perfect hillside (of course) above the Aegean Sea. No dogs. No birds. Nice view. Perfect!

Other than the steep nature of the country and the abundance of wild dogs, we are falling in love with Turkey…and we’ve only just started. More to come later. Until then STC!

OTRA – Across the Pond #3

Athens and Chios

Sunday (3/20). Today was “act like a tourist” day! We braved cold wind and rain to gape and gawk at all the buildings of the Acropolis complex.  Back in the day it was (in part) meant to instill awe in the souls of visitors. Seeing even the remnants today is still awe inspiring. Keeping in mind this was all done with the benefit of 440 BC cutting edge technology…and did I mention it was completed in about nine years? Yeah, wow!

After walking around the Agora and the Acropolis, and seeing all the temples and shrines, the words of the Apostle Paul really came alive. “Paul then stood up in the meeting of the Areopagus and said: ‘People of Athens! I see that in every way you are very religious. For as I walked around and looked carefully at your objects of worship, I even found an altar with this inscription: to an unknown god. So you are ignorant of the very thing you worship—and this is what I am going to proclaim to you.” Powerful stuff.

Famous hill where Paul addressed the meeting of the Areopagus. Acropolis in the background.

Monday (3/21). After two days of attempting to absorb massive doses of history, we took a day off just to roam. Parks. More history. Funky neighborhoods. Grunge. Noise. Congestion. We arrived back at the apartment to find our host had prepared a homecooked Greek meal for us. Eucharisto Aris! We rested our weary bones and fought off a food coma to do some planning. By evening’s end we had ferry tickets to Chios and a place to stay Wednesday evening.

Tuesday (3/22). Clean. Pack. Relax. On the road at 11am. Wandered nine miles through the maze of Athenian roads to the port of Pireus. Along the way we stumbled across a bustling street market. Everything from bras to bananas were on offer. Vendors calling out. People haggling. Endless masses eyeing the merchandise. It was awesome! Finally though we said good-bye to Athens. It was fun and kind of exotic being in a huge, hectic, gritty foreign city. Finally though, we’re just not big city people. Fun Fact: Phoenix has 3,400 people living per square mile. Milwaukee has 5,600. Athens has 44,000! Yeah, we’re ready for something a little more rural.

Athens street market

Wednesday (3/23). Physics lessons kids.  30+ mph wind across open water leads to large swells and a lively boat motion somewhere between an amusement park ride and NASA’s Vomit Comet.

Already loving the more laid back island vibe. Met many lovely people just in our first day. Also got introduced to bougatsa…I am ruined for life!!

Thursday (3/24). Yesterday we explored the town of Chios. Today we headed north along the coast. According to forecasts, we should be able to put away both our down jackets and wind shirts tomorrow. Not today though! An endless parade of ocean swells and white caps suggested that would not be a good idea today. Still it was another visually stunning day.

Friday (3/25). We said good-bye to the town of Chios for a little tour around the southern end of the island. Finally some warm weather weather and light(er) winds. Beautiful biking with serious climbing to Pyrgi. The town is famous for the geometric patters etched in many of the buildings. Found a quiet spot off the road a few miles outside of town Glorious.

Saturday (3/26). Wonderful, quiet evening in the countryside. Our first stop was Olympi, one of the famous fortress cities of Southern Chios. An 87 year old native of the town regaled us with stories growing up there, traveling the world as a merchant seaman, and owning a Greek Pizza restaurant in Washington D.C. for twenty years. Shared another bougatsa for breakfast…Definitely not helping my A1C numbers!

Pyrgi

With sufficient calories on board, we biked to the next fortress village of Mesta before backtracking to Pyrgi. By far the highlight of the day was meeting Thanos (No – not that Thanos). Incredibly nice guy. He was born and raised in Pyrgi, but now lives elsewhere.  His mother still lives there. He asked about our travels and shared some of his. Then gave us a tour of the city, including a look in a traditional guest house he owns.  Fascinating to see inside something built many hundred years ago. Thanks Thanos for making our day! By days end we arrived at a deserted beach to call home.

Today will be our last full day in Greece. Tomorrow we ride back into Chios town to catch a ferry to Turkey! We are both nervous and excited. With my Greek language background I’ve been able to decipher enough to be comfortable finding our way around. Tomorrow, everything changes and nothing will be familiar! Tune in next week to see how we fare. Until then…STC!

On the Road – Across the Pond #2

To Texas and Beyond

Wednesday – Monday (3/9-14). Finally. The 1st leg of our journey is underway.  Flagstaff to San Angelo, TX to visit our nephew Eric at Goodfellow AFB.

Many thanks to Werner, a lifelong resident of San Angelo who met us at the airport and transported our boxes to the hotel. We had a day before Eric was available, so we explored San Angelo, and were pleasantly surprised by what we found.

Over the weekend, we roamed around San Angelo checking out the indoor and outdoor offerings, as well as several local restaurants. Saturday Eric’s roomate Jack joined us for a stroll around the nearby state park and an amazing burger at Twisted Root.

Special shout out to Pastor Peter Heyn, wife Andrea and longtime member Werner. They stepped up big time helping get oversized boxes to and from the airport. We very much enjoyed spending time with them on Sunday morning.

Monday – Tuesday (3/14-15). The Big day! Werner once again was kind enough to deliver all our cargo back to the airport. Then it was one hour to DFW. An hour and a half weather delay, then eight hours to London. A three hour layover and three plus hours flight time was all it took to get to Athens. Safe, sound and extremely jet-lagged.

Tuesday (3/15). 6pm local time…Athens airport. Suddenly the trip has gotten very real. Security. Customs. Rebuild bikes. Load bikes. Suddenly we are free to roam. Our first stop is Porto Rafti, a small seaside village thirteen miles from the airport. Unfortunately, the timing of the flights meant that all thirteen miles were done in the cold and dark. We didn’t arrive until 9pm. After steamy showers to warm up, we were fast asleep in no time.

Wednesday (3/16). Wow! We’re in Greece! On our bikes! How awesome is that? After a massive lie in, we wandered our little port city on foot, and by bike. So many lovely images already. A fisherman sitting on his boat, singing to himself while mending his nets. Next door locals  haggle for the days catch over the stern of the boat. Old men fish. Couples sit on water-front benches  and watch life pass by. Children run from school with shouts of joy and play along the waterfront. With no language in common, we manage to procure delicious souvlaki for lunch. I think we’re going to enjoy this.

Thursday (3/17). First real day on the road we decided to ride a tailwind south to Sounion and beyond.

Friday (3/18). Crazy day. Temps in the 40’s with heinous headwinds. Felt like we were back in AK. Once again the coast is gorgeous. Riding into Athens to our AirBnB was an adventure. One must boldly assert one’s right to one’s personal space…even while on a bike. Having said that, most cars were only twice as big as our bikes, and drivers were generally very gracious. We ended up in a very nice apartment in what is clearly the muslim middle-eastern quarter of Athens. All the markets are halal. Tonight we ate unfamiliar menu items at the Kabul restaurant. Interesting!

Early observations. 1. The Aegean coastline is beautiful – and hilly! 2. We are way ahead of the tourist season. Good news/bad news. Good news – no crowds. Bad news – outside of Athens many towns and services are not open yet. Bad news for hungry cyclists! 3. We are finding our minimal to non-existent Greek language skills to be just about equal to the locals’ English language skills. Lots of blank looks, gesturing, smiling and pointing. We expect this to be our new norm for the next five months. 4. Apparently Greeks haven’t gotten the memo that smoking is bad for you! 5. Just a reminder, used TP goes in the garbage can – NOT in the loo. 6. Cats rule in Greece.

Saturday (3/19). First day sightseeing in Athens. Don’t want to over state this, but “Wow!” Took a walking tour – absolutely fascinating, and met some lovely people to boot. My education was extremely heavy on Greek and Roman history, but actually seeing all that history on display here will literally cause your brain to melt. And all we did today was nibble around the edges. Tomorrow we’re going in for a deep dive (and possibly another visit to Beer Times 2 for 1 happy hour!) I could ramble on, but suffice to say only four days in and we feel we’re off to a good start.

So there’s a tiny taste of Greece so far. As we’ve learned to say here…”poly kala!” Very Good! Until next time – STC!

On The Road Again – Across the Pond #1

“It’s a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road…there’s no knowing where you might be swept off to” -Gandalf

January 2020: Purchased one way tickets to Tromso, Norway.

May 2020: Cancelled flight to Tromso. Stupid Covid!

January 2021:  “Certainly by now things will be back to normal and we can return to Norway.” “Normal” is nowhere to be found. Stupid Covid! So let’s go someplace even farther north than Tromso. Thank you Alaska! You’ll do nicely!

January 2022:  “Normal” has apparently enjoyed working from home in its pajamas and not showering. However, there are reports that ‘normal’ has begun venturing out in public. Might international bicycle travel actually be possible? With covid on the decline and the world gradually returning to ‘normal’, what could possibly go wrong? Along with the rest of the world we’ve watched in horror as a maniacal dictator unleashes war and destruction in Ukraine, and threatens peace and security around the world. Against that backdrop, our travel plans matter little.

Early this year, with normal seeming possible, we purchased one way tickets to Athens, Greece and planned to spend five months bicycling through Greece, Turkey, Albania and points north as time allows. Now with Putin acting the fool, we definitely have questioned the wisdom of those travel plans. But ultimately we’ve decided that even against the backdrop of war, our travel plans really don’t matter. By that we mean several things. 1) Our plan is to follow through on our plans, however, we recognize our travel plans truly are not important. There will be no whining if world events dictate a change in plans. 2) Nothing we do (stay at home vs travel to Greece, etc) will change world events in the slightest. Our travel plans don’t matter. Thus we will attempt to follow through on our plans 3) We recognize that we are blessed. We are extremely grateful for the freedom to travel, to meet people, to experience cultures. Building bridges across cultures always seems like a good idea…especially in times like this.

With our departure date looming, we’ve been busy. As we’ve said before, it is one thing to prepare for a weekend get away or two week vacation. Preparing to travel by bicycle through different countries for five months…that’s a completely different beast. There have been doctors visits, lab visits, tax man visits. We’ve spent hours on the phone and internet gathering information and considering routes, making sure finances and travel documents are all in order. Given that we’re both traveling through different countries, and also different climates and seasons, there have been endless discussions about clothing and gear. I’m not complaining. The whole process of planning and preparing is part of the fun of travel.

We’ve been making our lists and checking them twice. We are cautiously optimistic that we may be ready. We have one last day in Flagstaff before flying to Texas. We’ll be making a brief stopover there to visit nephew Eric at Goodfellow AFB. From there we hop across the pond to London, then on to Athens. We are beyond excited to be on the road again seizing the carp! Once again I will attempt to provide updates on a weekly basis. If you haven’t already done so, sign up to receive email notifications and a handy link to new posts. Just scroll all the way down and enter your email address. We look forward to having you along with us.

“I think I’m quite ready for another adventure” – Bilbo Baggins

Still on the Road #28

October 31 – November 6

Growing up in the northern latitudes, one learns very quickly to embrace outdoor activity in the cold months. Madness lies down the path of trying to hide from the cold and snow. Thus it was that during our week in northern Wisconsin we braved the cold, the wind, the snow…and the occasional sunny day…and seized the carp outside.

In our humble, yet devastatingly accurate opinion, Wisconsin has the best secondary road system in the country. Thus we would have been remiss if we didn’t sample some northern tarmac while we were here. It did not disappoint – even if we did have to wear down jackets and winter clothes.

Given that water freezes at 32 degree, the car thermometer and snow flurries did give me a moment of pause. Perhaps…just maybe we’d moved beyond prime paddling season? No! Conditions just guaranteed I didn’t have to worry about bugs, sunscreen, or tourists. With the right gear I actually had some excellent paddling on local lakes.

For us, these outdoor activities were a necessity, and were quite fun. As always though, the best part of this week – much like last – was the chance to spend time with family. We talked, played games, did puzzles, crossed several items off Mom’s “honey do” list, did some baking (and eating – lots of eating), and just generally relaxed and had a great time. Sharon also took the opportunity to visit and share memories were her cousins at the family cottage. They all lived next door all through their childhood, so they are really more like brothers and sisters to Sharon. Sharon also got together with some former co-workers from her time in Rhinelander. No photos of that evening were available to the press. I’ll let that fact speak for itself. Apparently what happens at Dawn’s house stays at Dawn’s house!

This being Wisconsin, there are plenty of bars – but only one microbrew in Rhinelander. In keeping with our microbrew fact finding mission, we spent an entertaining afternoon enjoying the staff, the beer, and two fun couples from Florida visiting Wisconsin for the first time.

And thus draws to close a lovely week in the Northwoods. As much as we love Flagstaff and the west, there is a special place in our hearts for Rhinelander. I spent much of my childhood here. Sharon and I met and married here. And of course Mom is here. I can’t imagine leaving the west, but it is always a joy to be able to return “home” from time to time.

Still on the Road #24

Six Wheels: September 27 – October 2

Monday, September 27. Question: When are we happiest not being on two wheels? Answer: Days like today!

“The sun did not shine, it was too wet to play, so we sat in the pub on that cold, cold wet day. I sat there with Sharon, we sat there we two. I said, ‘How I wish we had something to chew.” Too wet to go out, too wet to play ball, so we sat in the pub, we ate pretzels and all. And all we could do was to eat, drink, eat, drink, and we liked it a lot, not only a bit.”   – The Cat in the Hat (Dave and Sharon style

Tuesday, September 28. Irrational optimism reigned supreme this morning. Surely, the sun will shine today and allow us to combine biking with some hiking in the Redwoods of Jedediah Smith State Park. That worked right up until it didn’t. We hadn’t even gone a mile when the rains came. Back to camp. An hour later we decided a drive would be nice. Good call as it rained on and off . We still managed to sneak in three lovely hikes.  I can share pics and use a thesaurus worth of synonyms to describe the redwoods…but really, you just need to see them for yourselves.

Wednesday, September 29. Once again we turned to the Konas to experience the redwoods. We found a loop that included a coastal hiking/biking trail and a scenic highway. The coastal trail was definitely more hike than bike, and became a full body workout. We ended the day though having seen a remote stretch of coastline, elk, and more of the amazing redwoods.

Another highlight of the day was meeting Ann. An experienced rider,  she is making her way from home in Port Angeles down the coast as far as  time and desire allow. After chatting a bit, we agreed to camp together a few miles down the road at Patrick’s Point. Ann’s suggestion was brilliant. The views were amazing. In spite of the damp and cold, we stayed up way later than normal, talking and trading stories.

Thursday, September 30. Travel day. Left the coast and headed inland through Redding and Sacramento on our way to South Lake Tahoe. Lots of evidence of the fires that ravaged this area as well as beautiful areas that deserve more exploration.

Friday, October 1. Twenty-nine degrees this morning. Summer, it seems, is well and truly over. Not to be deterred, we donned our down and set off down (or in this case – UP) the road to an overlook high above Lake Tahoe. The lake lives up to the hype. As much as we enjoyed the overlook, and the climb to get there (not), the boats seemed like the better option for enjoying Tahoe. We chose…wisely. An added bonus of biking and a few hours on the water was a healthy appetite. We continued our Great Western Pub Crawl with a visit to the Lake Tahoe Aleworx. Excellent pizza and pints.

Saturday, October 2. Forty some years ago when I left Prudhoe Bay, I never imagined some day I would return to the Slope. During that original summer I met the most amazing person I’d ever encountered. Suzanne embraced life and adventure like no one I had ever met. I was inspired by her generosity and openness to life. For a few years after that summer, we kept in touch. She and her partner (and eventual husband John) would send the occasional postcard from Fiji, or Skagway, or some other far flung location. As happens though, we eventually lost touch.

On Saturday, we had a happy reunion at Suzanne and John’s home thirty minutes from Lake Tahoe. Not surprisingly, they had spent a lifetime working and traveling the world. It was such a joy sharing stories and finding that time has not diminished their adventurous spirit in the least.

We ended the day in Reno. Tomorrow Sharon will be leaving to spend ten days with her folks. For the past six months, we have been together 24/7. It will be a bit odd wandering around northern Nevada on my own. Not sure yet what I’ll do…the no plan plan is firmly in place. I look forward to finding out along with all of you where this road leads. Until next week…STC!

On the Road Again #22

September 12-18

The end?…or a new beginning?

Sunday, September 12. Poor road design yet again! Where do they find these engineers? I get saving money by having absolutely no shoulder on the road. Why pay to pave something that pick up trucks aren’t going to drive on, right? Makes perfect sense. Sure, it’s inconvenient, possibly even deadly for bicyclists, but we don’t belong on the road anyway! No, what I don’t understand are the unnecessary hills. I’m no engineer, or physicist, but the lake looks flat. Seems reasonable to assume that a road along a lake might also be flat – but NOOOO! Up and down and up and down!! Enough already! But I digress…

It was actually a lovely ride from Flathead Lake into Big Fork and then on into Kalispell! At the cleverly named Kalispell microbrew we had fun chatting up three folks who had just finished a through hike of the Continental Divide trail. Then a local cyclist gave me the skinny on the active year round bike scene in Kalispell. Sounds like a cool, active community. Like many other cool, active communities they are getting over run by work-at-home folks and people fleeing California and Texas. Eventually we moved on to microbrew #2 to watch the Green Bay Packers high school team get destroyed by a real NFL team…’nuf said.

Monday, September 13. A not great ride along a busy highway to Whitefish. The town, however, was pretty great. Visited with Whitney for several hours at Jersey Boys Pizzaria. Interesting how we viewed our respective bike trips. For us, this journey was the logical continuation of active lives spent outdoors. For Whitney, this trip was like stepping through a doorway into an alternate universe. A place where seemingly impossible tasks…like bicycling across the country, or around the world suddenly becomes possible! We parted ways with the knowledge that we will almost certainly meet again.

Tuesday, September 14. Last day on (near) the road. Lengthy lie in. A series of conversations – first with the campground trio of youngsters, then Dom and Donna at the lake, then Heidi at the farmers market. Nice folks all. Did I mention tasty food at the farmer’s market? Excellent music. Strolling around town and sitting by the lake. All the necessary ingredients for a relaxing last day to reflect on the previous 102 days. The day ended with us heading west on the Amtrak Empire Builder.

Wednesday, September 15. Amtrak spit us out at Everett. Several friendly locals helped us navigate the bus system. For the princely sum of $4 we were efficiently whisked from Everett all the way to Bellingham. Amtrak refunded the $48 they were going to charge us for a similar bus ride five hours later in the day. A delicious lunch with Cailie was followed by a quick ride up the hill to the Buckingham casa. One hundred and three days after leaving, our two wheel odyssey was officially over!

By the numbers…

  • 103 days.
  • 2,700 miles
  • 600+ miles of gravel roads
  • 4 flat tires
  • 29 degrees…coldest biking temp
  • 12,126’…highest elevation while biking (Cottonwood Pass, CO)
  • 54 nights camping
  • 10 grizzly bear sightings
  • 22 hotel nights
  • 27 nights spent with family/friends
  • 6 different states

As I’ve noted elsewhere, numbers don’t tell the story. So in no particular order, here are some thoughts about this journey…

– During his long run, Forrest Gump stopped one day in Monument Valley and said, “I’m pretty tired…I think I’ll go home now!” That pretty much describes how our trip ended. Very anticlimactic.

Our country is awesome! That word is over used to the point of being almost meaningless…but it fits. This country of ours regularly “inspired or induced feelings of awe!” So many images come to mind. The Brooks Range panorama. The endless expanse of the arctic. A grizzly mom and her cubs. A male grizzly sprinting at full speed (awesomely terrifying). Denali. A broaching whale. A tidewater glacier up close. The Rocky mountains.

– Social media would have you believe the world is a scary place filled only with horrible people. Turn off your devices! Ignore social media! Go! Interact with real people! With the possible exception of Idaho, people were almost universally kind, curious, generous, encouraging, and friendly. And if I’m honest, many people we met in Idaho were pretty cool as well! Consider just a few examples…

  • Pipeline workers stopped to share massive chocolate cookies and rice krispie treats.
  • Tom and Amanda gave us the use of their vacation home in Valdez.
  • Kay and John hosted and fed us in Anchorage, and allowed us the use of their Deshka cabin.
  • People regularly gave us rides through construction zones, dangerous stretches of road, or just when we needed a lift.
  • People regularly stopped to see if we were OK or if we needed anything.
  • An 11 year old boy caught and gifted us with salmon filets for lunch.
  • A restaurant owner in Walden comped us a meal for our anniversary. A Palmer couple let us camp in their yard and made us salmon burgers. A woman drove out of her way into Girdwood to buy us a beer.
  • So many people invited us to share their campfire, shared their stories, invited us to share ours, shared their knowledge, and their time.

– We worked very hard for many years to be physically and financially able to take a trip like this. Having said that, we recognize what a gift we’ve been given and what a privilege to be able to spend three plus months on the road. We also recognize the rare gift we have with each other. To not just tolerate, but enjoy spending 24/7 with another person through some grueling conditions…that is a rare gift indeed.

Wanderlust is a powerful force. In addition to the 3+ months bike tour, we’ve been away from home since mid April…and we’re not yet missing a more sedentary life. Ongoing thank you to Jack and Abby for taking care of business for us in Flagstaff. We’re both looking forward to new adventures. Having said that, we’re going to enjoy the luxurious life onboard the Tardis and Bumpy3 for awhile. We will continue to see where we’ll be able to go in the future,, and from that decide where we want to go.

Thank you all for traveling along with us. I really appreciated the comments and encouragement both on and offline. As an FYI…while we’re traveling on six wheels, I’m going to take a break from weekly posts. If something interesting comes up I’ll definitely share. Otherwise, figure that no news is good news. Seize the Carp and make your own adventures!

On the Road Again #21

Two Wheels: September 5-11

Sunday, September 5. All across Wyoming we’d pointed our front wheel toward Yellowstone. Then at the very doorstep, we had second thoughts. Heavy holiday traffic with no shoulder to ride on…mmm, no thank you! Instead, we found a gravel road that cut west across  the northern end of the Tetons into Idaho. “We can do gravel!” we said. So we did! We ended up at a very nice and eerily quiet campsite near the top of our climb across the ridge.

Monday, September 6. Today was meant to be a relatively easy day. Mostly downhill and flat into Ashton, ID. Instead, in the words of a fellow cyclist, the road was “kind of chunky”. Loose, bone jarring chunky gravel road. Not so easy, it turns out. Turns out, also quite by accident, we found ourselves, on the Continental Divide mountain bike route. Consequently we came across more riders in one morning than we’d met our entire trip so far. All were planning to ride all the way from Canada to Mexico. That’s some pretty hard core stuff.

In Ashton we gorged on excellent pizza, then rode another six miles to a spot along the Henry Fork River. What looked to be a quiet place to camp was a veritable animal menagerie. We caught the Sandhill Crane rush hour after work. Hundreds came flying over on their commute home, all making their distinctive call. Up the road hundreds of cows were bellowing and bawling…not really sure what was going on there. Nearby a lively community of coyotes was having choir practice. Not to be outdone, the elk joined the chorus. Interesting night!

Tuesday, September 7. Best stop so far. Falls Drug store in St Anthony. We enjoyed a hearty breakfast for $3.77 each! You read that right. Unheard of! The huckleberry malt we had for breakfast dessert cost more. (You realize breakfast dessert is a thing, right?) The rest of the day alternated between sublime and sadistic. Sublime, flat, smooth, tailwind assisted riding gave way to rough gravel that led out into a sadistic Mad Max waterless wasteland. Back in civilization, Shane at the sheriff’s office gave us permission to camp next door in the Dubois city park. A lovely end to a long day.

Wednesday, September 8.  To say the landscape today was butt ugly would be an insult to ugly butts everywhere.

In addition to the bleak landscape, people here seem not “too full of the milk of human kindness”. Those who acknowledge our presence at all, do so with a sort of sullen indifference. Sorry Idaho, you’re not winning hearts and minds. After forty unpleasant miles we decided to bag it and hitch a ride north. Right! Did I mention sullen indifference? What kind of people ignore two frail (yet friendly) senior citizens – literally in the middle of nowhere? For an hour and a half! In 90+ degree heat! We were not thinking kind thoughts of Idaho or Idahoans when Rob circled back to see if we needed anything. He then drove us 20 miles past his turn off to drop us in the nearest town. Well played. Faith in humanity partially restored. (Note to Idaho…the rest of you are not off the hook yet).

The scenery did improve as we moved north. Unfortunately we could see very little of it because of the dense smoke and ash from all the fires. The smell was so overpowering we sought refuge in a B&B in Baker.

Thursday, September 9. Another unhealthy, smoky, smelly day. We biked into Salmon and decided to play thumb roulette again. Craig seemed awesome. Offered to drive us forty miles north to the top of Lost Trail pass. Conversation started with his high end custom car building business. ( He’s the real deal). By the end we were hearing about gov’t death threats because he’d discovered a cure for cancer. We were super grateful for his generosity. We were super grateful to have survived the wild ride in his mega customized (insanely fast) 1,000 hp pickup truck. We were extremely grateful to be out of the truck and back on two wheels again! Apparently hitch hiking is also of like a box of chocolates…

Thanks Craig

By days end we’d arrived in Darby, MT. Local veterinarian Tom and wife Barbara graciously allowed us to set up behind their clinic. Not only that, but also gave us great local beta on the best food, and stopped by after work to make sure we had everything we needed. Thanks Tom and Barbara

Friday, September 10. Early start. Huge breakfast in Darby then our longest day yet! I’d like to talk about the beauty of the Bitteroot mountains, but we could only just make out their faint outline through the smoke. Basically, just a long day! We were excited to stay with Ethel, our Warmshower host for the evening. We met 83 year old Ethel bike touring through Alaska! She and her 70 year old friend biked from Seward to Fairbanks. So what’s your excuse? While at Ethel’s we met Whitney, her other guest for the evening. Whitney has biked most of the way across country by herself and was a joy to be with. By evening’s end we’d made plans to spend some time biking together.

Saturday, September 11. After biking 12 miles across town, Mark graciously ferried us 62 miles into Polson. From there we rode another 13 miles along Flathead Lake to Blue Bay campground. Meanwhile, Ethel’s neighbor Ann was showing Whitney the sights and eventually dropped her off at camp. We had a fun evening with Whitney swapping stories around the first campfire of our trip.

Perhaps you noticed that during this past week there has been a significant amount of vehicle assisted travel. While we are still very much looking forward to more bike touring, we are ready for this portion of our journey to be over. So today we purchased a ride on Amtrak to take us from Whitefish to Bellingham. We still have a few days to bike and see the sights of northern Montana, but the end is now in sight. Definitely a bittersweet moment, but after 3+ months of two wheel travel we can begin to imagine some new adventures. Maybe a bicycle tour with Whitney around Mt Rainier. Perhaps some hiking, or sea kayaking, or day rides on empty bikes. So many different ways to seize the carp!

On the Road Again #20

Two Wheels: August 29 – September 4.

Sunday, August 29. Today – People often ask what we do all day while we’re riding. Usually we ride together, admire the scenery and chat. At times, pace and road conditions lead us to ride apart. Sharon will occasionally listen to a podcast or an audio book. I have a little Bluetooth speaker and prefer music. Other times I will ponder the question of life, the universe, and everything…and other mysteries, such as…

  • I wonder if we could fund our retirement selling used bungee cords found along the road?
  • Who is in such a hurry that they need to pee in a soda bottle and chuck it out the window? Related question…how does one pee in a small neck soda bottle while driving?
  • I’m would love to know why a broken vibrator ended up alongside the road, and how it got broken…or maybe not!
  • Are there mates on the other side of the road for all the single gloves laying in the ditch on my side of the road?
  • Why does the driver of a behemoth semi-sized RV not need the training and special license required of a semi driver? 🤔
  • Hey Colorado! Roads don’t have to end at the white line! Wyoming has nice wide, smooth shoulders. Just sayin’

These are just a few of the odd places my mind wanders when I’m not paying attention to it. The route from Riverside to Rawlins was interesting and pleasant enough that my brain stayed home most of the day. After restocking our pantry, we found a nice wild camping spot spot a few miles north of town.

Smoky sunrise

Monday, August 30. The blood red sun and early winds felt ominous. We expected a brutal day until the wind shifted to something called a ‘tailwind.’ I wasn’t sure what that was, so I looked it up. Turns out we like it. On the way to Jeffrey City we crossed the Continental Divide twice. We passed through an area that seemed like it belonged in Nevada. We were regularly surprised by the scenery served up by Wyoming. When at long last we arrived at Jeffrey City, we enjoyed chatting with Bill over a cold beer. A life long resident of this sad little town, he filled us in on the history, the scandals, and his own (fascinating) life story.

That evening we stayed at community church that hosts bikers on the Transamerica route. This route is the cycling equivalent of the Appalachian trail, or PCT. All along its 4000+ miles there are facilities like this and people willing to help ‘through bikers’. We spent much of the evening enjoying conversations with Jim and Gregg who were cycling all the way to the east coast.

Tuesday, August 31. Just about the time I decide I’m done with Wyoming’s endless scrubby open range, it surprises with some interesting topography. Still, after a long, hot, windy day we we’re both very ready to reach Lander and free camping in a beautiful city park.

Wednesday, September 1. Technically this is only day 89 of our two wheel adventure, but it sounds cool to say we’re biking in our 4th month. No better way to celebrate than with a lie in and rest day to see the sights of Lander. Kudos to the unbelievably friendly and helpful folks at Gannett Peak Sports. For a few well spent dollars they replaced worn out chains and tweaked our tired bikes. Having someone else work on our bikes…LUXURY! Later that day we enjoyed dinner with Harrison, another biker on his way east.

Thursday, September 2. Based on advice from several folks, we skipped ahead 75 miles to Dubois, WY. HUGE thank you to Ireneus (sp?) for driving far, far out of her way to give us a ride. She happily filled us in on her life as a member of the Shoshone tribe. Our arrival in Dubois coincided with the arrival of a massive thunderstorm that seemed intent in hanging around. Good enough reason for a hotel, hot tub and hot shower.

Friday, September 3. Today we said good-bye to the open range, and hello you lovely mountains…finally! The wide open spaces were a nice change of pace…for awhile. We were quite happy to slog uphill all day to creep over Togwotee (TOE-go-tee) Pass. We were also quite ready to be done. As I write this we are comfortably reclined in our tent in a high meadow listening to elk bugling, coyotes yipping and a creek bubbling. Sublime!

Saturday, September 4. As expected at 8,500′ it was a frosty night. Going forward we’re going to keep elevation in mind as we pick our camp spots.

Even during Labor Day weekend, it was a pretty chill day riding into Teton National Park. National parks have started offering hiker/biker camping. Sites are almost always available – and at a reduced rate. We snagged a spot at Colter Bay. First order of business,, fixing our fourth flat tire, and also replaced worn brake pads. Maintenance completed, it was a relaxing afternoon.

Big picture, we’re now looking at Sandpoint, Idaho as our final biking destination. From there it looks like we can catch Amtrak to Seattle, and possibly Bellingham. That will give us a few more weeks of relaxed riding instead of having to crush big days to make it all the way to Bellingham in our time frame. Short term we’re going to bypass the traffic and narrow roads of Yellowstone by taking a remote gravel road across the northern Tetons into Idaho before heading north. Another stupid fun adventure! Whee!

So until next week…Seize the Carp! And for all you Flagstaff Imogene runners…have a great weekend! We’ll be thinking of you all!

On the Road Again #19

Two Wheels: August 22 – 28

Sunday – Tuesday, August 22 -24.  Another day…another herd of cows to help us greet the new day. Actually they were being herded by a young lady on a quad who scolded us for camping on private land. Upon learning that we called Flagstaff home, she said “Well, at least you’re not from California! I guess you’re all right!” We were glad to hear that!

Five miles down the road, we met with Kevin. He’d driven down from Loveland to climb with friends and we’d planned to drive back to spend a few days with he and Katie. Spent a nice day hanging with Kevin, Katie and their friends Mel and Aron at the crags.

Given the urban sprawl that is Denver and its environs, it made sense that to accept a ride from Kevin and Katie in order to visit them in Loveland. We spent a wonderful few days there enjoying time at a beach, playing games, sampling tasty Mo-Jo (Moore-Johansen) vegan cooking, and just hanging out. I won’t say it was a well deserved rest, but it was truly appreciated.

Wednesday, August 25. Fifteen miles up the road we stopped to meet up with former co-worker, former Flag resident, and current dear friend Glen. It was great catching up. And while it would have been nice to spend more time, the day was heating up and we had some miles to travel. The canyon containing the Cache la Poudre river was to be our home for the next few days. Beautiful!

Thursday, August 26. Anticipating more warm weather, we got an early start. The headwinds, anticipating our early start, got an even earlier start and reduced our forward progress to an almost glacial pace. On the plus side, this gave us plenty of time to enjoy more of the lovely Poudre river canyon. The downside was that we were barely making 4 miles an hour in our ‘no hero gear’ up a very gradual incline. Late in the day we gratefully accepted a lift up the last seven miles to the top of Cameron pass. Thank you Duncan and Julie.

At one point during the day, we rode through an area that had burned the previous summer. Just a few weeks prior to our visit, massive mudslides and flooding claimed four lives and caused significant damage. Certainly helped put our whinging about a headwind into perspective.

Friday, August 27. Thunderstorms made for quite a wild night. In spite of all the theatrics, our sturdy little tent allowed us to sleep peacefully through most of the drama. Friday morning dawned cold and clear with temps in the mid 30’s. While we’re still getting some toasty days,, it’s becoming clear that summer is beginning to wane. The wind, obviously feeling guilty about the poor showing yesterday, decided to help us the final 24 miles into Walden.

Walden was the perfect place to prepare for what could be some challenging riding across Wyoming. We treated ourselves to a massive breakfast, a hotel room, a hot tub, and then more food at “All Smoked Up” BBQ. Clearly we haven’t met all 870 residents, but Walden has to be in the running for “friendliest town” ever. Gas station and grocery store clerks, hotel folks, restaurant servers and owners…all were smiling and pleasant.

Larry and Shannon were over the top. Larry came to our table and thanked us for coming to his restaurant. As we chatted about our trip, we mentioned that we were splurging on dinner and a hotel to celebrate our anniversary from a few days prior. He insisted that our BBQ dinner was free. Thank you.

Saturday, August 28. Today we traded the mountains and canyons of Colorado for wide open Wyoming. That’s not to say there was no climbing. The hills were measured in single digit miles instead of double digits. It looked like we were going to have an ‘easy’ fifty mile day until a malicious headwind almost ground us to a halt. Still, we finished relatively early and had a relaxing afternoon/evening complete with shower.

It’s been another interesting week. There have been some mentally tough and physically demanding days. We’ve also had some beautiful, rewarding, and relaxing days as well. We’re currently in good spirits and ready to continue on. We appreciate the encouragement that’s come our way.

Small side note: Saturday was our 85th day on two wheels and we just surpassed 2,000 miles…400 of those in Colorado and Wyoming. Clearly there have been lots of rest days off the bikes. Also of note…if you don’t count flying into Colorado, after three months we finally biked across our first state border.