Latvia, Lithuania

Day 8: Sunday (8/17/2025). Sounds of nature: Waves crashing on the beach. Wind whooshing through the trees. Raindrops pattering on the tent. THUMP THUMP THUMP THUMP THUMP of techno music from the party site rocking hard until the early morning hours. The really nice (free) Estonian Forestry campground came with one big downside – weekend warriors curating their playlist for everyone else to hear.  If ever I were to find myself behind bars, people like that would be the cause.

We added a third country to our trip early this morning. Other than some unused border control infrastructure and an EU sign, there was little to mark the crossing.

After several miles though, the three foot wide shoulder shrank to eight inches. Heavy traffic on a narrow road equals stressful riding. Unfortunately, in Latvia, few options exist. Our only choice was to put our heads down and grind out twenty or so miles until the shoulder widened again, and eventually we were able to get off the main road.

Food and rest breaks are a regular part of every day. Bus stop shelters, beach picnic areas, or even a handy road sign works in a pinch.   

After showers and dinner at our campsite, we shared a beer and stories with Walter. From northern Italy, he has literally traveled the world by bicycle. As so often happens when we hear stories from a fellow traveler, we are inspired to follow in his footsteps and explore new parts of the world.

Day 9: Monday (8/18/2025. Today we set Riga in our sights. In an effort to avoid busy highways, we may have overcorrected a wee bit.

The dirt track was actually the best part of getting into Riga. We arrived via an industrial portion of the city gridlocked with heavy traffic and made worse by endless road constructon. Once past that, though, we were immediately taken with the city. Calming parks. Street performers. An old town area begging to be explored. A funky bar serving up local brew and Boomer classic rock. Prieka!

Day 10: Tuesday (8/19/2025). Up until this morning, we had judged Latvia as consumers of experience. We judged and had found wanting an entire country based on our poor experience as privileged cycling tourists unhappy with the roads. Then we visited the Museum of the Occupation. It chronicled in chilling detail, the brutal reality of being caught between two megalomaniac dictators bent on world domination.

Before the war, Hitler and Stalin secretly agreed to divide up the world, and not play in each other’s sandbox. Per the plan, Stalin muscled his way into the Baltic states. But then Hitler reneged on his deal. Latvia paid the price as German troops rolled through in his ill-fated campaign against Russia. Near war’s end, Russia fought its way back into Latvia and the Baltic states – and then didn’t leave until 1991. Words cannot describe the horrors visited upon the Latvian people during those years. Stalin and his successors used every cruelty known to mankind to subjugate the nation. Yet, through all that, the hope and determination to be a free and independant nation never died. That day finally came in 1991 as the Soviet Union’s flawed system disintegrated.

Two takeaways from our visit. First is the realization that this country does not exist to provide us with a tourist “experience”. The Baltic countries are filled with real people, living real lives, doing their best to overcome a history more traumatic than any of us can possibly fathom. That knowledge has led to a deeper appreciation of this country and our time here.

The second takeaway is more disturbing. When Joseph Stalin took power, he systematically dismantled the institutions of government and assumed those powers for himself. Stalin demanded absolute loyalty by those around him and was surrounded by sycophants who heaped praise on his every word and action. During the war, and after, during the occupation, citizens were fed a daily helping of obvious lies and disinformation. “The shelves in the stores are all bare!” Stalin’s reply? “Fake news! Under my brilliant leadership, perhaps the best leadership ever, you live in a paradise!” Those who took exception to the fantasy being peddled by Soviet authorities were ‘disappeared’ to distant gulags by nameless, faceless minions in the KGB. “Due process” be damned!

It is impossible not to see the current U.S. president doing the same things. And even worse, to watch so many blindly following the presidential pied piper leading people to a dark place. A dark place that so many hundreds of thousands here fought and died trying to escape. I say this as I would to a friend who smokes. Please stop. I know it’s hard. I know it is an addiction –  but it is ruining your life.   

I thought these thoughts during a long, introspective solo stroll around Old Town. Appropriately, I ended my walk at the Freedom Memorial. Symbol of Latvian national unity, freedom and independence. It was a good day! It felt like an important day.

Day 11: Wednesday (8/20/2025). We bid adieu to Riga, and Komoot guided us safely beyond its borders. Perfect conditions today: cool, mostly sunny, and tailwindy. We stopped for lunch in the beautiful city of Jelgava, and stocked up on groceries for tonight and tomorrow. With no campgrounds along this stretch, we managed to find a hidden spot  tucked away in the woods near Uzini. We felt certain we would go unnoticed. Naturally a woman wandered by shortly after we had crawled into the tent. She said nothing to us, but now we shall be pondering the possibility of follow-up visits. Hopefully not.

Day 12: Thursday (8/21/2026). We got an early start this morning. Seemed prudent given that our site wasn’t quite as hidden as we’d hoped. As we packed we were surprised to see our breath. This far north summer hasn’t quite left, but you get the sense it’s bags are packed and stacked by the door. Hats and gloves made their first appearance.

Along a lonely stretch of gravel road we crossed into Lithuania with only a small sign to mark our passage. Country number four in less than two weeks.

In Lithuania we again faced a difficult choice…highways or back roads. Secondary roads were rough gravel and had heavy farm activity kicking up rocks and dust.

The main roads were worse. Drivers from behind were generally considerate. Most pulled over gave us a little space. Although, like drivers all over the world, no one would think of slowing down if a safe pass wasn’t possible. The worst though, was when *@#$% oncoming drivers would cross into our lane to pass.  Time and again we dove for the ditch to avoid the fate of bugs on a windshield. Our  middle finger salutes and screamed profanities had no effect on those trying to kill us. In the end, we opted for the farm roads and pieced together a bumpy route south.

Two highlights today. During Soviet occupation, the practice of religion was heavily restricted. In defiance of Soviet oppressors, locals planted crosses on a small hill. The Soviets would burn, bulldoze and knock down the crosses. And every time, the crosses would reappear. The Lithuanians refused to let the Soviets take away this imporant part of their culture. The Hill of Crosses became a symbol of freedom, defiance, and national unity. The Hill we saw today was a pale touristy shadow of its former self, but the history behind it is inspiring. 

The second highlight came during a walk around Siauliai. We met Andre, a fellow cyclist from Colombia. As one does, we shared a beer while sharing stories. After attending a cousin’s wedding in Tallinn, she decided (again, as one does) to ride her bike to Bonn, Germany – solo. We immediately fell in love with her zest for life and made plans to meet again tomorrow.

Day 13: Friday (8/22/2025). Yesterday will be remembered for the beating our bodies took on rough back roads, and the mental toll from riding the highway of death. Today will be remembered for the blossoming friendship with Andre, insightful conversation, sunshine, rainstorm pizza, and a the “exceeds expecations” campground at the end of a long day.

We met Andre on the outskirts of Siauliai and rode south together. As a solo traveler, I think Andre appreciated the company. For our part we enjoyed hearing stories about her life in Colombia. Her love for her country was infectious, and we appreciated her opening a window for us to see a slice of Colombian culture.  Perhaps a trip to Bogota is in our future? Perhaps we will get to play Colorado tour guide to a delightful individual?  One never knows.

Day 14: Saturday (8/23/2025). We are fully engaged in working our “No plan plan”. Within the space of hours we had decided to head southeast to Kaunas to take a bus or train into Poland. Looking ahead, time might be an issue and this would save a few days. Then we decided just to bike straight south towards Poland. Then we decided to bike to Kaunas with Andre, take a rest day,  and celebrate our anniversary (40 years!!). We decided to decide later whether to continue via human power or public transport.  

Today could have been a brutal day. We’ve left the flatlands behind and are now crossing an area of rolling hills. We expected a low gear struggle fest against headwinds. Pregnant clouds suggested the possibility of rain. Instead, the miles fairly flew by with the sun (mostly) on our faces and a breeze at our backs. We dodged one vicious rain squall in a dodgy abandoned building. We conquered La Autopiste de la Muerta, and Google Maps thinking we could ride down hundreds of steps. We made a good team, we three. Yay us.

Thus ends our second week back behind (handle) bars. We are looking forward to a celebratory rest day. We have cycled nine of the last ten days and covered over 400 miles. We are ready for a break. We are also looking forward to new countries, new friends and new experiences ahead.Until next week – STC!